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makar0n last won the day on August 19 2018

makar0n had the most liked content!

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About makar0n

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    Sting Ray

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Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH4
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-GH4
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240

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  1. One word...LASIK. Went to see what can be done about presbyopia, turns out I was farsighted and had astigmatism Looked at lenses and all of this, but while certainly non invasive etc, it is just so much more hassle to carry all of this, remember to put the right one, worry about lenses washing out and so on. Plus as your eyes get worse, you will need to exchange lenses at some point. And dive prescription lenses, at least around here (BE) are pretty expensive...like hundreds of Euros expensive. Guess US might be better in that regards, but on the other hand US medical prices are rather '"special".... , so dunno what is the cost of such surgery there. Not having to use any special things and being able to grab just any mask (especially if progressing into tech diving), makes the surgery worth it....and daaamn, its so nice to see the LCD display sharp again
  2. my 3 cents: Every time i had encountered something like this with Z240s, it was always the cable and/or LED trigger, as per @adamhanlon suggestion earlier. First test without trigger, using camera strobe - this one is usually way more powerful. If it works, try new batteries in LED trigger, swapping cables etc. Also test without housing i.e hold cable direct to LED trigger. Broken cable might work like this, but once camera is in teh housing, it will receive even less light, due to that plexiglass plate between camera and the outside world. If making DYI cables, be careful how you cut the fiber optic...in my 4 cables made only one worked straight away, others needed a bit of polishing/re-cutting. If you are using simple scissors, fiber core might be scratched/squeezed and have this weird milky look. This, paired with LED trigger, which is not that strong, and housing plexiglas on the way, might result in not enough light passed through. Sometimes cable might be "semi" faulty - might work in certain position but slight move (i.e. during diving) and off it goes...again have one that works only under certain angle due to bad cut As for batteries, in case of Inon''s it is important all are charged evenly and have similar capacity. So no mixing diff batteries or new ones and 5 years old ones etc. Use "smart" charger with individual charging slots - no pairs/quadruples. edit: and don't use isopropyl alcohol on plexiglass...alcohol is deadly for acrylic like that. it will become brittle and crack
  3. There you go: https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=nauticam&type=things&sort=relevant I am sure if you search other 3d printing sites you can find even more Also, there is at least one shop out there that also sells 3d printed zoom gear for various lenses, including ones not supported by Nauticam Prices are rather decent. Bought from them years ago and quality wise was pretty ok. https://www.deepshots.co.uk/ Also i swear i saw similar topic years ago, here on Wetpixel, with some people posting their designs, so perhaps a search function can help you.
  4. Another reason to get it, before it disappears forever ...the LF650-N replacement seems weaker and also higher temp (5000K vs 6500K). Found that onderwaterhuis.nl still has these, and since I am debating on getting a LF-1300EWf, to replace yet another failed L&M Sola light (their PCBs are complete garbage, and repair cost is outrageous), and realized Inon lights have interchangeable heads, tempted by the LF800-N as well. Just gotta figure out if can find a head alone, not to pay for two bodies. Thanks for the report. Do let me know what happens in two weeks...perhaps even post a few pics here I am quite interested in the blackwater, sadly being stuck in Europe, makes it rather difficult....meanwhile Thailand is not that far and they seem to be open as well, which in today's times is rather rare Hope you have a great weather and all the lights work on the next trip!
  5. Daaamn that is unlucky, sorry to hear that. But thanks for the heads up, I was just looking at the LF800-N, so in this case will ask teh shop to definitely test it beforehand. Out of the curiosity, how was the liveaboard trip ? The blackwater ones seems a bit of a new thing, hence really curious how it went
  6. Pretty sure as long as its photo related (and you don't spam 100 adverts), wetpixel classifieds will be fine as well
  7. Heheh just look at his main page ...also individual batteries, analyzers, USB chargers and gazillion of other things...dude seems to know what he is doing https://lygte-info.dk/ NP. good luck with your search....was in a similar boat a few months ago, looking for a 4-slot...finally gave up on USB-C and settled for VC4S...does the job for Eneloops and any odd Li-Ion ones...guess that will keep me going till some proper 4 slot USB C charger appears. One that can do both battery types that is.
  8. You might want to look at lygte website - guy does really in depth chargers/batteries review: https://lygte-info.dk/info/roundCellChargerIndex UK.html These forums are also pretty useful - below example links VC8 Plus review: www.candlepowerforums.com VC8 Plus Think the USB-C tech is only starting to finally show up in the charger world, and even then there is plenty of ones that have just the C socket, but still charge with the same power as previous USBs...Somehow manufacturers still prefer those damn DC adapters instead.
  9. http://www.divervision.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=loc-line There are quite a few locline mounts...some light manufacturers also make their own I would agree with Chris though...for a video light, maybe, focus rarely needs to be adjusted that much, especially since its so wide and low power (though i guess your 4000 model is a bit on the powerful side). I am usually keeping mine on a ball mount with either shorter Ultralight clamp between or longer Nauticam one if i need a bit more reach. Sometimes with a 6" arm between if i want to go anglerfish style I do keep it rather to the side though - instead of using the hot shoe mount, i am placing mine usually on the top right mount (Nauticam housing)
  10. If anybody in the EU is looking for the L shaped plus, UW Camera Store (based in NL) has the Inon "Single Hole Rubber Bush Type L" currently for about 7.20 Euro plus delivery (cheaper than USD shops ): https://www.uwcamerastore.com/inon-single-hole-rubber-bush-type-l They also have the double hole version. Personally that (i.e. single hole) is what i will be using with a salvaged caps from the Nauticam cables (https://www.uwcamerastore.com/nauticam-optical-fibre-connector-for-inon-for-26216 ; it can be bought separately though it looks suspiciously like the Inon "Sensor Plug Non-wireless" https://www.uwcamerastore.com/inon-sensor-plug-non-wireless). Inon also does a full connector for their strobes ""Wireless type" L-Connector", it is however a bit more expensive, at 31.35 Euro (non wireless version, ie for older Type 3 etc strobes also exists) https://www.uwcamerastore.com/inon-l-connector Now, no, i am not working for that store...just dropped off my housings there for service this week, hence rummaged through their stock since I was there anyways
  11. i-Fiberoptics has responded pretty quick, and 1.5mm version is now back on sale!
  12. Just FYI - seems the 1.5mm is no longer listed for sale per meter on the i-Fiberoptics website, its 500mm spool only now. No clue why, I have emailed them to ask. 1mm version is still available.
  13. Hmm as it seems that the iFiberoptics place is now a preferred way to order, guess I am gonna go with that. Just FYI if any of the EU folks (or the wretched brexiting islanders) would like to have some (and not already going via Tim for example), do let me know but ideally this week please....My colleague aka personal camel will be coming back around mid October so could then send things around via Germany/Belgium...based on the Michael T. findings weight shouldn't be an issue, so can get another 10-20m for whoever wants it.
  14. Thank you both. Yeah, that is exactly what i am wondering about. I am tempted to to get the 1mm cable, since this seems to have a tighter radius bend, as such should be more resistant to breakage. That said i am thinking about getting 10-20m anyways so might as well fashion 10 cables out of it and just swap if needed I am using a Nauti LED trigger and Z-240s so I hope this combination will be fine with a 1mm...dilemma dilemma.
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