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makar0n

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makar0n last won the day on August 24

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About makar0n

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    Sting Ray

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  • Location
    Belgium

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    Ukraine
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH4
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-GH4
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240

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  1. Would it perhaps make sense to split mirrorless into M4/3 and FF ? These are not the same, at least from my peasant point of view
  2. Lots of those Kickstarter tech projects ends up folding sadly, especially since Corona hit, hence I would be very careful buying into any of those. Plenty are nothing but cheap junk made of chinesium, the weakest metal on Earth, with lots of buzzwords thrown around and a fancy website. As for the idea, sounds rather unnecessarily complicated, and massively overpriced. Get an SSD, plug into phone via USB-C (or the lightening apple thingie as per @Gudge idea), voila. You are already carrying a computer (your phone, which you need to use anyways), and it can do anything you want on the drive with the files. You can use gazillion of free file manager apps (try Total Commander, my absolute favorite) and another gazillion of editing apps. And if you need wireless, well get an enclosure with wifi, though USB C would be way faster.
  3. Hmm quoted by Alex Mustard...this somehow seems very ominous...i am worried now...very worried The man responsible for my gf favorite world mentioned at least once a day on every trip since 2016, "backscatter". Side effect of reading masterclass I suppose xD (kidding aside, its a great book, very well written!) As to go back to the fluo topic: I strongly recommend looking over that uni website there is a ton of info there, including pics/videos and comparisons. Website might not be arranged well visually but its definitely worth looking around to have a better idea about the whole fluorescence in general. Also, link to a multiple filters comparison, which might prove pretty useful: https://www.uni-due.de/fluodives/Seiten/FluoEnglLastPdf.pdf Do have a look especially at the lovely wavelengths, as this is where the whole trickery happens - you need just the right shade of blue (so to speak) and the right filter to cut out that blue and leave only fluorescence behind. If the blue wavelength is not correct, it won't excite fluorescence. If filter is not matched then picture will also end up blue since it won't be cut out at the right wavelength. Based on the above i went with Tiffen 12 (well Big Blue at the end which seems to be about the same). Before getting that also got the B+W 022, as Tiffens were nightmare to get in Europe then, not sure now. Got it from Hilton Photo (UK), they carry lots of filter and were able to provide wavelength charts for them (attached, 3rd row, last pic for 022, see how it lets a tad more blue than Tiffen 012). Though when i ordered that filter was about half of what it is now xD So with Big Blue /Tiffen 12 i get awesome greens and oranges, no blue whatsoever. B+W in turn has a bit worse greens and lets in tiny bit of blue but thanks to that one gets really nice reds/purpleish (stonefishies) Gel filters might work, certainly sounds like a good idea, but how to make sure that the blue wavelength is correct that I have no clue (well other than trial and error via photos). Though do read the part from the link above about dichroic filters vs gel filters. Maybe poke some real scientist around here (bvanant?), i believe there are some that will have way better idea about this than me rambling. As for Glodive filters I cannot say. These seem to be a single piece of blue plastic, but never had a chance to test those so dunno what they are really made of/what wavelength they let through and how they will work with Retras. Best would be to speak to them and ask for some info or, if returns are fine, order, dry test it and see if it works for you. Another option is if you are somehow passing via Brussels, then happy to do a testing meetup and bring the junk i have FilterTransmissionCurves.pdf
  4. ebay is your friend https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=WD+My+Passport+Wireless+Pro&_sacat=0 There is also plenty of 3rd party SSD enclosures with microSD (and other slots), just google around/amazon/aliexpress. Shove any SSD inside (usually m.2 type) and done.. There might be even ones with wifi. Also, this might be an interesting reading - how to turn an SSD into CFExpress card with an adapter. So instead of spending half a grand on some tiny card, get and SSD and an adapter for hundreds less, spend rest on beer ;] https://www.tomshardware.com/news/adapter-turns-ssds-into-cfexpress
  5. This i what i use on both strobes (z240s Type 4): https://firedivegear.com/product/inon-flip-filter/ They also have smaller version if the flip functionality is not required: https://firedivegear.com/product/inon-sandwich-excitation-filter/ I can recommend these 100% - tested Dyron and H2O filters and these were utter crap (and also massively overpriced in case of H2O). FireDiveGear are absolutely amazing. They also do custom ones if you use unusual strobes etc. They also make custom fitting yellow filter for your mask, so it fits perfectly. From my recent-ish conversation with them they also now offer filters than can accommodate snoot. So you have white or blue, or any of these with a snoot. Have not ordered these yet though as recently not having many chances to play with camera at all. Pics attached. Filters - using 67mm Big Blue (rebrand of Tiffen #12 i think) and 58mm B+W (022 Medium Yellow Filter). The former results in more greenish picture, the latter in more reddish. Setup wise i put both strobes on single 6inch arms, so instead of /\ camera /\, I have - camera -, with strobes upside down and set on max power (to avoid having to regulate power in pitch black) and just playing with f stop and shutter speed. As a spotting/focus light i am using Sola Nightsea (about the only Sola that still works....) Lenses - 45 macro (port with 67mm thread, filter on flip diopter holder), 12-35 (dome port, filter inside on the lens). Also have attachment for 7-14 to mount filter at the back (between lens and camera as that lens has no top thread, Kodak 12/Wratten filter) but have not tested that yet. Also check out this - great source of all kind of info on fluo, images/videos, workshops (often in Egypt) and scientific analysis to a degree. https://www.uni-due.de/fluodives/HomeFinalE.html
  6. Just head to Romblon - place is known for those (and plenty of other nudis). Look up Sunset Cove resort, had an absolute blast there and they have an amazing boat, with real marine engines, not those farting things that take forever to get anywhere and by then time you do, takes half n hour to regain hearing. It is ran by Ronny Oliwka - he was previously running no. 1 dive center in Palawan before selling the business, so everything is absolutely tip top.
  7. +1 for Deepshots, they also do ones custom ones if needed, apart from the ones listed in stock. https://www.deepshots.co.uk/ Also, seen a few designs around thingiverse and others, if you have access to 3d printer.
  8. As per previous posters, try to email Aquatica directly. Now this will seem like a rant about France (it is not), but i had similar experiences with other dive related companies with French offices...Aqualung does not respond, L&M (Tusa) took a whooping month to reply to an email. No clue, unless its like in Belgium, where half the people are still learning what email is and how to use this new gizmo (yes, in 2022)
  9. Adam - so while I would wait for @Davide DB as he seems to have the experience in the very area of running boards (and possibly email servers), meanwhile I am from a different branch of the geeky profession, my input below. So the issue can either lay on Google side, or Wetpixel internals. a) Google - as the emails do not get through at all, at least to some people (as opposed to getting in, but being put in "spam"), this could indicate that they are either not being sent, or, are dropped by Google systems for some reason. If these are not being sent, one would have to have a look at email server logs/config. If these are dropped by Google, that will be tougher, however you should perhaps first check for bounce backs on email server - ie. when email is rejected, sometimes you get a "reply" message with error code/reason. As @Davide DB has said, unlikely you have email server only to yourself, and most likely it is shared by 100-1000s of clients of the web hosting company. So it's enough if one of those clients had malicious dealings, like sending phishing emails/spam, this could have caused the server to be blacklisted. But this would most likely mean no gmail address would receive anything. Question is are there any folks with gmail (sans yourselves as admin) that do receive things?. If not, might be worth raising it with the hosting company so maybe they can raise it with Google, as unlikely Google will even bother to talk to a private person. b) Wetpixel - so based on my experience, I have started receiving the notifications again after I've changed to Proton mail. But it could be that it was not the Proton, but the change that made it work. I.e. say something was "stuck" on the board (could be also email server) side, but the mere act of changing the email address made it work again. Either way, best way would be to find users that use Gmail, with some getting notifications and some not. Then one can start testing i.e. changing to another email provider account, then back to the same gmail (for accounts that did not get anything, to see if change alone triggered anything), similarly change to another gmail account for those that do receive these, then back to the same one, just to see if the behavior would change between different gmail accounts. I would not use your/mods account to test at this stage as you all have different permissions and that might affect the results. If you need a victim for testing then I am happy to volunteer, just need somebody to keep sending me PMs
  10. +1 on the Inon L shaped single hole plugs quoted by @ChrisRoss - I am using these as well, very well made and easy to assemble/disassemble if needed. You could try to "straighten" them out, as the rubber thing, that the cable goes through, is very flexible and comes out, so you could make some 3d printed clips or just wrap it with tape so it sticks to the cable. Onderwaterhuis in NL has them for 7.20 Euro https://www.onderwaterhuis.nl/catalogsearch/result/index/?f=Inon+Single+Hole+Rubber+Bush+Type+L&q=Inon+Rubber+Bush+Type+L Have not found yet the perfect method of cutting the cables, as sadly my friendly fiber optic network company refused to let me use their fancy cutting machine as apparently its for solid core only, but so far had good results using good quality "manual" cable cutting tool, then sanding the end of the cable with very fine sanding paper - I've used a 1000 grit one.
  11. Well sire, you are spoiled hailing from Caribbean Did winter diving in Sinai, sure feels weird having to wear a jumper or long trousers, or even worse, socks on some days, but water wise, nothing bad with a 7mm semi dry Autumn/Spring 5mm and all is well. Or +1 has one of those funky heated vests under the wetsuit. That said, yeah water temp is nicer indeed summer wise and on the boat you will have a nice breeze vs 40-50 degrees in Aswan (or a bit less but still hotter on the shore). And i see since this is so controversial i will change the entry to "I generally avoid" - I personally have very low tolerance to crowds/kids screaming and being so a dweller of the cold, dark north Europe mostly, not a fan of staying in the shade. If i am in Egypt, I am in the sun, a vampire in reverse. And if that is in summer, then what is called in some places as British/German tan aka the lovely shade of lobster red is unavoidable. And it makes it so much fun putting that wetsuit on.
  12. A 3 cents from a fellow amateur: If you dive with a good outfit and a decent dive guide, every dive is planned for photographers And no, not because holding cameras makes are special (needs...), or the place advertises themselves as "catering for photographers", but diving, at least for me, is about seeing things. As such a good dive is the one you see the most, regardless if you cover 100m or 10m of distance. Heck, often best dives end up being literally ones where you stay in the same spot, as there is so many/so interesting crits there is no need to go anywhere. Now of course there might be some exceptions, like snoot use, (as that, at least for me takes 15 min+ to get that damn thing into the right position, at which point you might be pushing it with the rest of the group, unless you are alone that is) or some deep, windy sites, where there is no way to stay in one place as the current blows you away. Personally i really do not mind diving with non-camera folks, in fact most of the times i did, it was absolutely fine and I very much enjoyed it. And on more than few occasions was an absolute blast, when you sometimes meet a great random crew and you all click together so that each dive becomes like a family. Also remember - divers can be "used" as spotters, in fact they will often do it without even asking Also use +1 - albeit we both take photos, if one takes a bit longer, the other one becomes the (missing) link - i.e keeping in view the group and the one taking photo, so when that one is finished, can navigate back to the group, even not seeing it. Sure from time to time you can get some silly ones, but from my experience, it is the dive guide that is the key - as if he is a good one he will reign such people in / take care of them so they improve their behavior / won't let them go low on air and whole group has to cut short etc. Rarely you meet real dive ruining assholes, and majority I've met, were actually wielding cameras - especially my absolute favorite, people with things on selfie sticks shoveling them about everywhere, no matter the damage to the reef or critter, including in front of your camera after you've spent 5 minutes crawling to that skittish mantis shrimp holding your breath as much as possible. Or you meet a "pro" with big ass camera who then openly catches and moves crits, puts them wherever it suits his shot, them dumps them, but will often bury them or throw sand so that nobody else tries to take a photo (real experience sadly). That said never been to a photo only liveaboard for example, but this sounds more for me like an (excellent) learning opportunity in terms of actually taking the pictures, rather than diving per se. But the key is research outfit in advance and then the dive guide, the single most important element of diving - talk to him in advance, explaining your diving style (not focusing on how many knobs your camera has) . Be nice, polite (but not demanding as in "you must do all for me because i have camera") Also most of the good ones will arrange the dive "viewing" wise anyway, so perfect for anybody with or without a camera. And, perhaps the most important thing - good dive guide is flexible as in while there might be some sort of a dive plan, it can change. He leads and stays where the crits are and where the group are happy, regardless if one covers a whooping 10m distance only during a whole dive. The worst ones here are the strict - who either are insanely focused on rules (don't you dare stay longer than 60 mins or have less than X bars, they will drag you out of the water), or marathon ones - they don't care what you see, but instead care only about the plan - at minute 10 they must be 25m away, at minute 20, 50m etc, they will just swim around like nuts, dragging all behind. TL:DR: Research a good dive outfit, that will almost guarantee a good dive guide. Don't get too focused on "special" photo friendly dive centres. Just enjoy the dive. As for Egypt, I generally avoid July/August - plenty of people and their screaming kids (though might be less now given the funny times we are living in), and it gets really hot, especially down south, so one has to seek shade. Last time been in November last year, completely alone as +1 couldn't go, and had an absolute blast, despite knowing 0 people and being the only only one with camera. Perfect dive guide, super relaxed, you dive as long as you want, no rushing, can dive with the guide or without as long as you are somewhere in the general area, but no need to hold guide's hand (provided buddies were up for that are up for it too, not a fan of solo diving), and stay wherever as long as you want it and have air. It was Fury Shoal so easy and pretty safe diving. In older times (when still semi living in Egypt) we also did self guided house reefs - when driving the Cairo-Aswan route was always awesome to stop for a few days in the "middle" and do a diving break (usually a place called Orca Coral Garden, where you literally woke up whenever, grabbed tank whenever and just went diving however it suited you, guiding oneself) Darn it, again wall of text...sorry
  13. From my recent comparison , albeit using diff lenses than discussed here. Perhaps it helps weight wise though.
  14. Just when i thought that it is Belgium that is in the middle of nowhere...well fair enough, Alaska wins in that category, your distances are multiple times of Belgium as a whole Well was looking at Z6 but the housing, at least Nauticam one is one heavy piece (albeit allows for a "free" upgrade to Z7 as it accepts both). Luckily we Euros are safe from all those live stream temptations being usually soundly asleep.
  15. The one problem we average Joe's have is articulating those rationales. since we do not have access to multiple bodies nor, living in cold, dark places, buddies with housings, to test things in the wet way...sometimes we get carried out with the "ooooo shiny shiny new toys" rationale, which then requires numbers therapy
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