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Everything posted by makar0n

  1. Hmm condensation perhaps? Try to stuff one of these leak-sure packets into the housing and see if this help... Does it go to red right after you switch it on? I.e. before even closing the housing? Had similar problem with my old Nauticam GH2 housing alarm (non vacuum one) - it would activate underwater even though there was not a drop of water in the housing....at the end just took out the battery as it was driving me nuts but yeah, in the long run a repair (guess a new leak alarm!) might be needed.... Do a try dive - take housing without camera but filled with tissues/toilet paper....you should be able to see straight away if there are any leaks. And check/change o-rings...perhaps there is a bit of sand/hair or some crap stuck and might be leaking tiny tiney water mist... good luck and enjoy the trip
  2. That's an interesting bit of info....I was assuming on Manual flash is always of the same duration...little, dirty Inon secrets Ran another batch of tests, this time on f/10 and 1/125..and noticed a weird thing: -when ISO set to auto, built in is very bright, iso from exif shows 800, trigger is dark, iso from exif shows 200 (image 2 and 4) -when ISO set to 200, both built and trigger look the same, somehow mid between dark and super bright. (image 1 and 3) Tested brand new batteries as well, but it made no difference, same results. So it might be GH4 after all...though still theoretically I am not getting full brightness...i.e. built in on auto is still brightest. Well manual ISO might be the way then, perhaps Auto one gets somehow confused with trigger attached Hmm I am getting a feeling it's time to smack myself over the head and say "doh" :lol2:
  3. suggest you check here http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44632 believe this one is much more flexible...
  4. Hi Pavel, Batteries are relatively new, about 1000 flashes in (out of about 5000 that they apparently can go for), also trigger LED is green. As for cables, both are brand new Nauticam 21216, 613 fibre ones...besides they work fine with built in flash. Dunno...dumbfounded...perhaps I am doing something wrong ? To give you some idea....two pics atached - 2 strobes, both set to manual, power 1 (lowest). Preflash was OFF for built in strobe, and ON for trigger. Both shots done in f/22 and 1/250. Cheers, m
  5. Hi Adam, Thanks for the advice - both preflash buttons are pressed in - otherwise I get completely black picture Indeed it looks like out of sync problem...just question is what is causing it. Tried all camera settings but no luck, cannot force it to sync the same way as with built in flash. It could be the trigger but would prefer to be "more sure" before splurging 200 squid on a new one :S...Nauticam sure is not cheap.... Weirdly enough, when strobes are set to S-TTL it actually works...thought of course its just two power settings then, as trigger does not support TTL after all. Come on wetpixelers, I am sure there must be one of you having a GH4 and Nauticam trigger Cheers, m
  6. Hi!, So wondering if there are some people out there with some experience of setting GH4 with the Nauticam mini flash trigger.... Basically I am trying to figure out settings and pretty much lost When flashing with built-in flash, picture appears normal, same when Inon's Z240s are triggered by this. As soon as I attach the mini flash trigger, pictures become waaaay darker (and that's even on f/2.8, cannot go any lower). Its so bad that the flash with Inon's on full power, barely matches flash from Inon's on minimum power when triggered via built in flash. Initially thought this might be an Inon problem but after testing narrowed it down to camera behaviour. Its pretty annoying, as effectively loosing a lot of light "power" this way.... Anybody using the mini flash trigger out there? Any tips? Went through pretty much every setting, also tried to change flash modes before I attach mini flash trigger (in case these somehow are changed proper) and no luck...Had to do whole Komodo trip using a weird mix of trigger plus S-TTL on Inon (yeah, I know trigger does not support TTL, but then Inon flashes shorter (I guess?) which somehow lets camera capture more light. Any help would be appreciated Thanks! m
  7. I am normally flying to/from Cairo - last time beginning of May. All camera gear (ie. housing, lenses, strobes, ports, lights, dive computer etc apart from arms/clamps) was in hand luggage but had to put the laptop and camera body in hold. Though camera was on advice of the check-in person. As it turned out security was not bothered at all as quite a few people had cameras with them. Batteries are a hit and miss - normally I carry both camera and AA ones in hand luggage but on one occasion they made a fuzz about AA ones, on the 2nd security check right before boarding...luckily flight security guy was kind enough to "hold" them for the flight duration and return on landing, otherwise they would have binned them. That said, Hurghada might be easier, as it is seen more as a tourist airport, they are usually stricter in Cairo...lately they even X-Ray your luggage on the way out, after landing, looking for any electronic devices - but I believe this one is more to stop people bringing stuff for sale without paying custom duties. Have fun - Egypt is great for diving, now that the hordes of divers have departed, so one does not dive with 500 divers at once And don't forget to encrypt your laptop...in case it goes "missing".
  8. Silly question, which spot did you exactly taped with that magic multitool of yours ? As just got to Komodo, and one of my Z240s developed exactly the same issue :S Tried switching it off, changing between S-TTL and full mode, and nothing...and of course it had to happen as soon as warranty has expired and on a trip....
  9. enjoy Remind me in a week or two then will post how did the H2O filter pan out with SS-2 strobes
  10. hmm test it on something that glows, before you start buying stuff...as it can make a serious hole in your pocket never had UV lamp but think the beam should be purplish kinda. Either way, if it's real UV you should be able to see fluorescence with your naked eye. as for fluro...read the below, really good source of all kind of information on fluo diving http://sb.fluomedia.org/fluolinks/ as for yellow filters, this guy did an awesome comparison of different ones....you can choose one depending on the wavelength of your light. Color wise it will either remove all the blue leaving just green/red or you will get a bit of purplish background...depending which wavelength is filtered. https://www.uni-due.de/zoophysiologie/cc.guests/FluoreszenzFilterFinalUSApdf.pdf I have two - Big Blue (generic, think equivalent to Tiffen 12) and B+W 022. Big Blue gives me a bit of purple, B+W pure green. That is with the strobes, light only they are both green. He also sells some blue lights, but never tested these. Considering his knowledge they might be very good though. As for filters, I am using sandwich ones from Firedivegear. He has some for D1 strobes: http://firedivegear.com/product/sea-sea-ys-d1-excitation-filter/ There is also a flip model. Think they fit D2 but he also does custom ones so pretty flexible. One thing is he is based in US so shipping (plus customs....) might be a bit of a pain. He did have a partner in Netherlands that one could order from but dunno if that's still the option. Drop him and email and ask. Good service though, when glass in one broke (might have been screwed too tight...) , he mailed replacement one at no charge. There is another company, H2O that does filters in Europe. They look pretty much the same but no idea if it is the same design (at least for Z240). GF just ordered these so she will be testing them for the next few weeks, can report then, albeit she is using different strobes (Symbiosis SS-2). http://www.h2o-tools.com/fluoreszenz-fotografie/uv-blitz-filter/-h2o-tools-fluodive-blitzfilter-blaufilter-fuer-den-inon-d-2000-z-240-blitz There are some more designs out there so just look through that first website, plenty of links Good luck!
  11. If i'ts a real UV then you don't need filters at all If its blue (rather than UV) then yellow one. Blue lights are much more popular in general (i.e Sola Nightsea for example) as they are 4 times stronger. If you are using a blue one, can recommend getting a sandwich fluro filters for strobes...light is nice, but ultimately it will be too weak...I use mine as a spot light,and then flash with Z240's Enjoy fluro...i personally don't do "normal" night dives no more, just blue stuff
  12. that's 70 including customs etc ? As looking for one myself...
  13. Great job! Now are all waiting on v2 production version
  14. Just send a msg to adamhanlonHe is quite quick to respond you can also post here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59895
  15. Just when I refreshed wetpixel..a little gem appears PM sent.
  16. now one like this for the 6" port and i will marry you great design!
  17. Good spot! Now where is my torch and pitchfork? Got me a scammer to lynch
  18. silly question as somehow cannot grasp it ...what is the difference i.e. what are advantages of such offset valve ? curious as thinking about getting one so trying to decide which .. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- aaand of course, 5 minutes after posting, i found the explanation anyway, here it is, in case somebody else needs guidance "Offset" Extension Valves are used when a housing has a single accessory hole, but requires both a Vacuum Valve and electrical bulkhead to be installed in the same location. This will enable most housings to be able to utilize this valuable tool. Taken from: http://fotografit.eu/upload_dir/pics/Nauticam/Vacuum-system/NAUTICAM-VACUUM-CHECK-AND-LEAK-DETECTION-SYSTEM.pdf
  19. what underwater apple nauticam will certainly kill will be our wallets
  20. yeah...just if somehow courier company messes up then you will only get the compensation back to the value declared...don't mind for small thing but housing is a bit risky
  21. been thinking about gh4 upgrade...so could could you please teleport to UK for a moment? damn it...all the nice stuff is always in US
  22. fair enough...separate compartment is not that necessary. was just curious...after all Z240 doesn't have it neither and works weight wise...yeah would be nice to make them lighter, but if the face is the heatsink as the same time....unless perhaps make them more buoyant ? as for fluro - hmm heads would be even better, provided it can be changed easily hmm think i will watch this topic very closely and wait for Rev.2 good work!
  23. hah but its also visible with the air diffuser a bit...hmm undecided, it does look brighter but also a bit uneven, especially on the side shots.
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