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About jpringle

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. So if I wanted to use a YS-90DX or YS-90TTL, for example, I could connect with a synch cord which had an Ike connector on the housing end, and a Nikonos compatible connector on the strobe end? This would allow the camera to control the strobe for TTL exposure, correct?
  2. A couple of questions arise (well, lots-n-lots, actually) as I'm sorting out which strobe to go with. 1. Does Ikelite only offer Ike connectors on the sync cord bulkhead for the Coolpix5000 housing, or is their an option for a Nikonos connector? 2. How easy/hard is it to use the switch on the Ike Manual Controller when wearing cold water gloves (or mitts - I've been diving with "lobster claws", but expect I'll have to switch to 5 finger gloves to control the camera goodies) 3. For that matter, which strobe controllers are actually usable when wearing gloves (I've seen many posts that the YS-90DX controlls are almost impossible to use when wearing gloves)? 4. Any word on when/if Ike will be releasing the combo controller he teased us with a couple of months ago? I have a hard time understanding what's so difficult with adding either a switch position or a separate switch that would essentially "pass through" the sync cord signals to the strobe.....but then I'm not an EE.....
  3. A few notes on PSE2... I've been trying to decide what app to get for a Mac, and was about to go with the full PS7 until I was turned on to this book: The Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 2. There's a site where you can check out more on the book, but the basic concept is that you can achieve 99% of the "missing" tools in PSE2 using the methods outlined in the book. For example, the "curves" tool is usually touted as not being in PSE2, but according to the book (and some tools/plugins that come on the CD) that power is there, you just have to unlock it with a slightly different approach. I flipped through the book in my local bookstore, and liked what I saw (I just haven't gotten around to ordering from amazon). It's written by a guy who knows what he's talking about (has used PS from the first version, uses both apps in his "normal" job of graphics designer) and seems to be pretty readable. Anyhow, check it out, decide for yourself. As to the pricing on PSE2, the really low offers I've seen (like on Amazon) are usually based on $30 rebates that are "upgrade or crossover" rebates - you have to show proof of ownership for competing products etc. Otherwise I think the best price I've seen is around $70. Also, if you decide that you don't like the limited version, and want to go whole hog, Adobe offers an upgrade price on PS7 (may be only direct from their site) that deducts the price of PSE2.
  4. wow, that's a short battery lifespan! does anyone know if the extended battery will fit into the ike housing? most of my diving will be here in the puget sound and waters north....
  5. I found this posting on the dpreview forums quite interesting (and the thread is interesting too). Seems like RAW is possibly, maybe more useful if you're shooting DSLR, but of questionable value for the Coolpix line of cameras.... Nikon RAW findings....
  6. in this thread, kdietz said I haven't had a chance to play with RAW mode on my new CP5000 (the stupid useless CF card they supply with the camera won't hold a RAW file!) - is there really this much of a difference between Fine and RAW in this camera? 22 seconds is.......a.........long............time.......... From most posts I've read, shooting RAW gives you better options for post-processing the images, and you don't lose any details from the compression. However, at a 5x increase in storage time....not sure if it's worth it? Also, does the camera show the image on the LCD when in RAW mode? So many questions.....
  7. I did a bit of digging around on "option 3" and came across the Nixvue Vista. This sounds cool - you can get pretty big capacity, directly accepts CF cards (type I/II), has an LCD for viewing as well as TV out (NTSC/PAL) and a remote (you can make slide shows). But the really cool part B) (I think, anyway) is that with the recent firmware it will display raw formats (Nikon, Oly - check out the website for the complete list). Prices at B&H Photo are: 10GB - $390 20GB - $440 30GB - $480 Also shows EXIF data, histograms etc. So this could really be used to do some up front culling of photos, review of technique (looking at exposure info on good/bad shots), sharing with the folks in the clubhouse on the TV along with the videographers. Although you might find a "cheap laptop" for a similar price that would be more functional, it would be bigger and more of a pain to carry around. This is the size of your average MP3 player.... It also has firewire and USB 2.0 "connectors" that you can get to speed up those desktop downloads when you get home (but at $85 for the firewire connector it might be worth the 20 minute time to download a full disk....)
  8. One thing I've read on the write performance is that the hardware (ie the camera) must be tweaked to take advantage of the faster performance cards. Obviously the high-end DSLRs do this....what about the CP5000 (which is what I have). Has anyone noticed whether this camera can take advantage of the higher speed potential of those cards? I haven't dove with with rig yet...guessing on the camera battery time based on the battery performance test from dpreview...2.5 hours. Obviously the battery test regimine was a bit different that what is experienced while on a dive. My cold water dives usually average about 45 - 50 minutes.
  9. So, say you shoot in raw. I assume the basic flow is something like: 1. Import to computer (mac/pc) 2. Determine which ones to toss/keep (had to convert to viewable format at this point) 3. Archive originals of keepers (equivalent to keeping the orig negative) 4. Edit photo in app of choice 5. Archive adjusted image 6. Print / share / whatever I've newly acquired a mac, and am learning my way through iPhoto. It seems a good program for maintaing "albums" once you've reached stage 6, but not for the first bits (it can't do anything with .nef files, for example, and keeps full copies of the original when you edit / crop / etc, so starts using up disk space). It also can only deal with images that are online, not archived on CD etc. What other apps are good for managing the explosion of image files you invariably end up with?
  10. So what is everyone doing for storage while on the dive trip? I see four options... - multiple storage cards - download to storage-only device - download to storage-display device other than laptop - download to laptop The first two seem to be good if you're trying to reduce the amount of gear you're lugging around, but you only get to see the pix on the camera LCD (maybe hook up to a TV if available and your gear supports it) The third may be interesting for sharing / reviewing your work, but means no shooting in raw mode (?) The last seems most versatile, but requires lugging around a laptop which may be unreasonable depending on the destination. Thoughts? What actual devices are you using? What's on the horizon?
  11. I am in the process of getting CF cards for my CP5000, and am trying to determine what capacity to get. I see the following prices from amazon (using this to guage $/mb)... 128mb sandisk - $45....$0.35/mb 128mb sandisk ultra - $63....$0.49/mb 256mb sandisk - $90....$0.35/mb 256mb sandisk ultra - $80..$0.31/mb 512mb sandisk - $125....$0.24/mb 512mb sandisk ultra - $150...$0.29/mb 1gb sandisk - $225.....$0.22/mb In raw mode I could get around 134 images in 1gb, or ~430 in Fine JPG. Dropping to 512 gets me half that. If my battery lasted two dives (cold, Puget Sound dives) then using the 1gb I wouldn't have to open the housing between dives, even in raw mode. Any reason NOT to get the 1GB card? Also, are most folks downloading/offloading the CF cards to laptops or portable hard-drives or carrying multiple CF cards? Thanks! --Jason
  12. James - thanks very much for the enlightening post! I currently own NADA U/W photo gear. I know people who know people etc that may have some older gear they would part with for less $$ than brand new stuff. Not that I'm using price as an only factor, but it is still a factor. I dive mostly in the PNW (Seattle area and God's Pocket in Port Hardy, BC), with occasional trips to the warm water spots (once every 2-3 years). It seems that most of the photo hounds in our God's Pocket group shoot both macro and close wide angle (people harassing crabs, playing with wolf eels and octopus, etc), so I would expect to be doing the same. My main goal with gear selection is to get the learning curve as short as possible - ie find the quickest route to getting at least some decent shots. Once there I can then start tweaking etc. I figure if you're good enough, anyone can get great shots with almost any rig - but some rigs will make it much harder to get equivalent results! Why make it harder than it needs to be (especially when starting green field on the equipment front)? Any advice is definately welcome! --Jason
  13. I'm in the process of purchasing a CP5000 and plan to go with the Ikelite housing. I'm now doing research on strobe selection, and have been reading through lots of interesting threads. As I'm new to digital photography and U/W photog., I've got a few questions... 1) if using TTL hardwired, do you need to leave the preflash on? I'm guessing yes, b/c my understanding is that the preflash is what provides the input for the TTL to function. However, it seemed to be a big thing that the new firmware allowed turning off the preflash....only useful if NOT doing TTL? 2) when the preflash is going off, is the strobe firing as well? (I'm envisioning sending lots of fish into epileptic seizures...) 3) when using two strobes, does the 2nd one slave off of the first, or does it get it's own cable? 4) if using TTL hardwired, with this camera/housing is it possible to use any of the strobes out there (Nikon, S&S, Ike) and throw the "support of digital flash systems" factor out the window? Or, to put it another way, would the "special circuitry" of the DS125 be unused in this rig? (The strobe sounds great on other merits - size, recharge, coverage, etc, just trying to determine if I need to factor in the smarts that normally go with the slave sensor usage etc). That's enough for now. Oh, except should I get the DS125 or the YS90DX? ("duck and cover...")
  14. Looking to get into UW digital, don't have any digital equip. yet. Figure it's best to wait on the DSLR technology for awhile - by the time I get MY ability up to it the technology will be much more advanced anyway. So, I've been reading lots of past threads on camera choices. I think I've narrowed down to G2 and CP5000. As I see it, the G2 has the CP5000 beat on most counts except the macro (that add on lens for the CP sounds kewl). I do most of my diving in the Pacific NW - cold water and lots of macro. Except for when the wolf eels and octos are out - then we're all about wide angle! So the Nicon lens that is highly flexible sounds very intriguing for that reason. Can anyone point me to some small critter stuff taken with the G2? Are the add-on lenses changeable UW (so I could still switch back and forth on the same dive)?
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