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Kraken de Mabini

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Kraken de Mabini last won the day on September 13 2019

Kraken de Mabini had the most liked content!

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About Kraken de Mabini

  • Rank
    Manta Ray
  • Birthday June 8

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Greater Los Angeles, California
  • Interests
    UW photography, design UW custom gizmos

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, D7100, D800E, Olympus TG4 & 5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA500, Subal ND800, Olympus TG 058
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS D2J, two - Sola lights, three
  • Industry Affiliation

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  1. Subal C20 Housing for Canon EOS 20D camera. Housing is in excellent, water proof, fully working condition. Viewfinder, extra body and port O rings, and a Subal FP110 Type 3 port with port cover. The Canon EOS 20D camera body is available on eBay for about $40 or less. This is an excellent housing for a beginner to intermediate UW photographer. My eBay rating is 100% Buyer Satisfaction. PM please. Paypal $ 229 + 30 US shipping ($55 other countries)
  2. Some suggestions to "When to replace a Battery ?": a) Start the dive trip with new or fully charged batteries, as Pavel suggests. Use the best batteries available, they pay for themselves. b) Use a digital voltmeter to measure the battery's voltage: If it is significantly below the battery's nominal voltage, replace the battery. One learns quite fast when to replace. Digital VOM's are quite small, light weight, inexpensive and readily available on eBay. Carry one on trips away from home, they can be given as a nice gift at the end of the trip. c) It is a good idea to carry spare batteries for the lamps, strobes, camera, vacuum leak detector... Don't forget the chargers. If you do not need them, a fellow diver will - great way to make new friends!
  3. WTB Subal dome port, od. 200 mm - 8 inches, damaged, no longer usable, for spare parts. Please PM description and photos.
  4. It might be more revealing if the housing is left in the water for several hours, or even overnight, seeing as this is low pressure, not depth, immersion. Happy water dowsing!
  5. Your last reply, Peter Clark, six days ago was: "I've disconnected it now and will check again tomorrow." So what happened? Please tell us what you have done and found.
  6. Some of the above posts on the best autofocus settings for the Nikon D-850 (and D500 as they are quite similar) are a bit confusing, and may benefit from some detail, below, and also from the suggestions of more Wetpixelers. Let us chat about the Custom Settings Menu (CSM) and Focus Mode Lever/Button choices for the D500 camera: 1. Menu > Custom Settings: a1. AF-C: Release is my choice as the focus is already set to continuous. a2. AF-S: Focus, as the camera has not yet focused. a3. Focus tracking with lock-on: a) One can choose speed of subject movement that blocks the shot, quick or slow (1 -5). Which one? b) choose the amount of motion that blocks the shot, erratic vs steady? Which do you recommend? a4. On: to select and focus faces (Is this correct?) a5. Normal: (?) a6. Number of Focus Points: 55 vs 15, which do you recommend? a7. Up to the user. a8. AF activation: Set the shooting button(s) toShutter/AF-ON (index or thumb can press to shoot, my choice) or AF-ON button (only the thumb can press to shoot). a9. Limit AF-area mode selection: There are 7 modes, #1 is factory checked. Choices 2 to 7 can be checked with the right multi-selector. 2. Now let us move to the Lower Left Side Lever & Button choices: Press info to show the choices in the viewfinder. Set the Focus Mode to AF or M with the AF/M lever. To select one of the checked AF-area modes, press the AF/M center button and turn the front, sub-command dial, such as the 3D Area mode. Which do you prefer? To select Focus Mode AF-C (continuous) or AF-S (single), turn the rear, main command dial. C or S depends on the subject being photographed. I hope all the above will stimulate more discussions. Please tell us your experience and suggestions.
  7. The question is: "How to adopt new habits, or equipment, or procedures under water without losing photo opportunities?" One approach, before entering the water, is to practice, practice and then practice some more, for example, at home in a semi-dark room take photos of small and medium sized objects such as toys, labelled containers and bottles, to learn how to use the camera with one strobe until familiar with its settings. Then practice with two strobes. That way, after numerous photos on land, once in the water one's equipment and settings will be second nature, instinctive and practically automatic. Much practice and familiarity with the settings are an important key to good underwater photos, and more importantly, to building one's ability to handle the camera and lighting in a productive way.
  8. Yes, one has to adjust both strobes for each photo, but it becomes a rapid habit very soon, as it usually it is only one or two clicks. One's hand learns the routine fast, it really is not a problem. As the saying goes: "Try it, you'll like it." Why? Because the results will please you.
  9. If with the new S&S settings the pictures are white, then allow me to suggest you stop working on TTL and use M - manual settings. Set the camera to M, ISO 100, shutter 1/250 and f from 8 to 20+ Why do I say this? Because I had the same experience with the S&S YS-D2J strobes and now with new Inon Z330 strobes. Both work fine with manual - M - settings. Forget TTL, it can be a waste of money and valuable time. Go Manual, and enjoy taking photos of underwater life. Later you can adjust your pictures with a computer and photo program. Keep the S&S YS-D2J strobes, they are fine strobes made to give you many years of service.
  10. Thingiverse.com is a free library of thousands of 3D-printed objects, including underwater things. https://www.google.com/search?q=thingiverse&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS879US879&oq=thin&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j0l2j69i60l4.2880j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Good luck!
  11. Interesting problem: Your test with a Canon seems to eliminate the Nikon D750 and point to the Ys-D2J's as over responding to the preflash. The next step may be to test your camera with different strobe models, such as the YS-D2 (not J) or Inon Z240 or Z330. Please tell us of your progress.
  12. I have both the T3 and T4 Subal ports, and this unknown port is smaller than the T3, the bayonet lugs are also smaller and with rounded corners, so it is not Subal. Good try, but port identity remains unknown.
  13. I got this flat glass port, maybe for an underwater housing, with a bunch of second-hand Subal housing stuff on Ebay from a reseller. The port is 90 mm outer diameter, has no markings of any sort. It has three O-rings, two by the bayonet mount, and one on the outer ring surface. Your kind help in identifying it will be greatly appreciated.
  14. The Sea&Sea YS D2J strobe, new, is now $500 at Divervision.com, a reliable and prompt store, no sales tax. Rumor has it the YS-D3J is about to appear. At Fun-In Taiwan the Inon Z330 is $571, two day DHL delivery, I just bought two.
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