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Kraken de Mabini

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Kraken de Mabini last won the day on December 12 2020

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About Kraken de Mabini

  • Rank
    Great Hammerhead
  • Birthday 01/01/1871

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    UW photography, design UW custom gizmos

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500, D7100, D7200. Olympus TG4 & 5
  • Camera Housing
    Subal ND7100, Olympus TG 058
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240, two -
  • Industry Affiliation
    none

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  1. One thing that might help is to build a small scale model of the gizmo, before purchasing full scale poles and/or pipes. Maybe a 1/2 pipe model, using fabric or plastic sheet or mosquito netting, and trying it out in the pool.
  2. Hi, Tim: I have no experience or knowledge of such a project, but here is what I can imagine: Your goal is two surfaces, one horizontal, one vertical, they need not be joined, just close together to appear as one. For the horizontal surface, I would consider a rigid sheet, say sheet metal painted black, which might consist of several overlapping smaller sheets to make it easier to handle. It would sink and stay, and will be thick enough not to ripple when somebody steps, sits, or lays on it. For the horizontal surface one needs something that allows water to flow through it, so it does not sway or ripple when the water moves back and forth. 1. Maybe take advantage of the slots of venetian blinds to allow water flow. Use discarded venetian blinds painted black, mounted on a 2 m square of thick pipe, the pipe might be slotted longitudinally along its inner length to hold the edges of the blinds. The blinds can be left slightly open so the water can flow back and forth. Maybe store selling window blinds and curtains might have used blinds. 2. Make a 2 m square of pipe holding a square of 1 or 2 cm wire mesh, the mesh then can support a thick plastic sheet, or one or more layers of light weight, open mesh fabric, died black, to keep it from rippling. Or sandwich the plastic or fabric between two layers of light weight wire mesh, everything sprayed black. Intriguing project, I sure hope to hear of its progress, and also enjoy the photos you take with it. Best of luck!
  3. i-fiberoptics appears to be a good source for fiber optic cable. One can then plug the cable into the housing and strobe with 7 mm diam. plug ends from Amazon, which can be glued on with ABS plumbers cement and trimmed with a razor: The plugs are available here: uxcell 20pcs 27mmx7mmx4mm Micro Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector With them one has budget priced fiberoptic cables.
  4. Light & Motion Sola 1200 Photo Underwater Focus & Video Light, used, with ball mount and charger, $ 199 This Light & Motion Sola 1200 Photo Underwater Focus & Video Light works perfectly, holds its charge and is a great hand held dive light. The spot or wide angle beam can be set to low, medium or high intensity light. It works as a photo spotting and as a focus light. It can be attached to the camera's housing with a standard clamp. The Sola charger uses 120 and 220V current. Immediate shipping. Paypal $199 + $10 US post, other countries $22. pp, please.
  5. Above, in this string, I had mentioned single strobe shooting by Peri Paleracio and Roger Steene. Now Adam Hanlon gives us an elegant lecture on the use of a single strobe:
  6. According to Keri Wilk (http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/pro-choice-keri-wilk-ikelite-ds160/) the Ikelite DS160 emits light of 4800K, while most other strobes emit at 5000K. This difference, as pbalves notes above, is best avoided by not mixing Ikelites with other strobes, excellent point. If one already has two different strobes, before settling down to using them, one should first try them to see if the resulting photos are good, then base one's strobe choice on the results.
  7. From time to time I have 'mixed' my strobes, and used two strobes of separate makes or models, with no problem. I have also read recently, here in Wetpixel, that some uw photographers prefer to use one strong, and one less bright, strobe. To take it further, some top uw photographers, such as Peri Paleracio of Anilao, and Roger Steene of Cairns, favor using only one strobe, with outstanding results, for their macro work. A few years ago I saw how Peri would place the one strobe above the lens, aim it at the subject, then move it as needed. Bad luck prevented my diving with and observing Roger's technique, but his work speaks for itself. In brief, other than price or convenience, or safety if one strobe fails, I know of no imperative for one to use very similar or twin strobes for macro work. Now for wide angle, big subjects, one may want two (or more) strong strobes. Let us hear from the reef, lovely siren, big fish and Retra mega-lumen, shooters.
  8. Hi, my recent experience with Light&Motion is somewhat similar, they replied, but were unable to handle a really simple Sola problem. About your connector, maybe Reef Photo & Video <support.team@reefphoto.com> attn Mr Kevn Palmer or Backscatter.com might know how to get one. It should also be possible to 3D print the plug and improvise the electric connectors. Digi-Key sells an large number of different connectors, (https://www.digikey.com/) they might be of help.
  9. AYahoo has replaced the xenon flash and battery of an Olympus flash/Olympus OM-D E-M1 camera with two ultra bright LEDs powered by the camera's battery, mounted in a new, printed housing, while retaining strobe's TTL function. However, as AYahoo notes, replacing the Xenon flash tube with LEDs had been done previously (1), while retaining the strobe's battery. What is novel is that Ayahoo powered the LED's with the Olympus camera's battery. However, his rationale and description for this are less than clear, lacking in details. To me, it does seem that all this work, just to use the camera's battery to trigger two LEDs, is hardly worth it. Also, if one shoots Manual, one can build a simple LED trigger for less than $10 (2, 3). This LED Flash Trigger has a hot shoe plug, a 3 V coin 2032 battery and holder, a 1 Ohm resistor, two deep red 5 mm LEDs, and a 6 V Shottky diode to prevent "ringing". One can make this trigger for under $10, it is a simple version of the Subal LED strobe manual trigger. A retainer can be made of plastic to hold the LEDs in place (4). 3D printed LED Retainer - - - REFERENCES: 1. LED Modified Olympus Flash https://www.instructables.com/LED-Strobe-Trigger-for-Olympus-OM-D-E-M1-Mark-II/ 2. DIY Hot Shoe Plug. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67006-diy-hot-shoe-electric-plug/&tab=comments#comment-423166 3. Super bright, deep red 630 nm, 5 mm LEDs are available from Superbrightleds.com and Ledsupply.com 4. LED Retainer, May 3, 2021 reply. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67663-replacing-subal-trigger-leds/&tab=comments#comment-427719
  10. Lovely, top notch video, many thanks for posting it.
  11. Hello, Chris: Yes, thank you, I had already seen this kit offering, it is complete, also expensive, about $140 once the sales tax and shipping are included. If I have the O-ring inventory to consult, I can buy the necessary O rings from the O Ring Store for a fraction of this. I can measure the old O rings, and will do so, but it is tedious and time consuming, a list will be a big help. O rings are surprisingly long lived, and if they are pliable with no cracks or other defects, many 0-rings and all the steel parts need not be replaced, so why pay for them? Admittedly, taking everything apart is a good idea to clean sand, dirt and gunk, at times rust, trapped in around the shafts and inside the springs. Some years ago, I rebuilt a one year old Aquatica housing: the metal shafts were rusty, and all O rings needed replacement, so a complete take apart was justified. In this case the housing is quite old, with a long and honorable history of year around service in equatorial Sulawesi, and a complete disassembly is merited. As I am an amateur at this, having the manuals, part diagrams and lists and O-ring lists available may be quite useful.
  12. A friend has a Sea & Sea MDX-D300 Underwater Housing (for the Nikon D300), which leaks. The plan is to restore it to its full working condition. For this I need the .pdf manual on Sea&Sea housing repair and list of O ring sizes. I have Googled for it, so far with no luck. If anybody has the .pdf version of this manual and or the MDX-D300 housing parts diagrams, and particularly the list of O-rings, please let me know. Thank you.
  13. Really clever and useful! I wish I had kept my D7000 housing to convert to a D7500, what a great project that would have been.
  14. Strobe delivered by USPS to buyer July 12, 2021. Sale complete, thank you!
  15. Hi Giuseppe: The two Inon S2000 strobes arrived, in perfect shape. Thank you very much. If there is anything I can send you from the US, please let me know. Cordially, Elias Amador
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