Kraken de Mabini

Onokai now has a new 4/3 adapter ring, as I sent him mine. Reef Photo in Florida sells this adapter as the "Subal 4/3 port bayonet adapter" SKU # sub.bjad34. This ring works as it should. With it one can plug a Subal Type 3 port or extension into a T4 housing or EXR extension. Two small screws lock the adapter into the T3 port so that it can be plugged or unplugged from the T4 ring on the housing.

Bump.

Another way to look at this flat port length issue Is to ask look at the basics, then do the real-ife test. 1. Is the distance between the front of the lens and the inside of the port window important? Let us consider what the light does: The light from the subject being photographed goes through the port glass, hits the lens and most of it goes through the lens to the camera's sensors. A small (very small) amount of light bounces back from the lens to the inside of the port window, and back to the lens, in ever diminishing, sub microscopic amounts, thanks to the coating on the lens and inside of the port window being clean. This amount of ping-pong bouncing light is minute, and is not really affected by absorption by the air inside the port, nor by the distance between the port and the length, in the short, millimeter distances that we may realistically encounter. (Two practical limitations: 1. A small amount of light bouncing around is unavoidable due to the unavoidable built-in entropy of the system. 2. If a port is too long or its inner diameter too small, the inside of the port will show in the camera's image.) In other words, for quality optical glass, the light transfer from port to lens is so efficient that we can ignore the distance between the inside of the port glass and the front of the lens and, within limits, can use a flat port to enclose the lens without worrying about how long it is. We can also concluded that the performance of an external, wet diopter is not affected by the distance between the port window and camera lens. 2. The operational, hands-on, approach is to assemble the camera, lens, housing and port in question. For the answer, look in the viewfinder and take a photo. The quality of the viewfinder image and of the photo will tells us if the assembly, including port and lens, are working as they should.

Available.

I am interested in the 40 mm extension ring and sent you a PM, thank you.

Sold! Thank you for watching.

The Flip Adapter is on its way to its new happy home! Thank you for your interest.

Free Flip Adapter to Good Wetpixel Home: Flip Adapter for diopter lens, with 67 mm male threads on the base and 67 mm female threads on the swing out ring; it can also be screwed down, three bolts are included. Unused. Anodized black aluminum, original box. Adapter is Free, just contribute the US shipping $14 via Paypal, please confirm by PM.

Sea&Sea underwater strobe electric sync cords, shiny perfect 5 pin Nikonos screw-on plugs, with covers for each. These #17100 cables are designed for housings, and strobes such as Sea&Sea and Inon, with 5 pin connectors. Four Sea&Sea cords are available. $34.99 each or $99.99 for all 4 cords, + $9 US shipping. Paypal. My eBay rating is 100% buyer satisfaction.

Found the viewfinder, no longer looking for one.

Leaky equipment is never good. Please tell us a bit more: Which model of Kraken, who did you buy it from, how much, what is the defect: a crack, a seam that has opened...?

Complete Nikon D800 - Sea&Sea Macro System Ready to Dive! Sea & Sea MDX 800 Housing, Nikon D800 Camera with Nikkor 60mm Macro Lens, Ports and Strobe Arms. Excellent and complete package, everything is in excellent, fully working condition, ready to take underwater photos. The Sea & Sea Housing, MDX-D800 is dark blue, has a built-in moisture detector, main O-ring, camera tray, viewfinder and port cover. All controls work perfectly. Full maintenance by Pacific Housing Repair. Spare main O ring included. Never flooded. Sea & Sea Compact Macro Port 52 (S&S #56241) with original box, glass is perfect, no scratches. Plastic lens cover, O-ring and spare, original box. Sea&Sea NX Compact Macro Port Base (S&S #56201) in excellent condition, no dings or scratches, includes O-ring with spare, plastic port cover. Nikon D800 digital camera, Serial #3052270, in original box with battery, charger, manuals, shoulder strap, cables, etc, in excellent condition, no dust or fungus, no dings or scratches. Exposure count is 12,415 - the D800 camera is built for 250,000-300,000 exposures. Compact Flash memory card included. Nikkor 60mm Macro Lens f/2.8 D with front and rear lens covers, no scratches, dust or fungus, works perfectly, like new condition. Underwater Arms and Clamps: Two 200 mm arms, two 125 mm arms, six clamps plus two angled ball adapters to attach the arms to the housing. _ Housing & Camera Package = $ 2,525. Paypal, Free shipping in the USA. My eBay rating is 100% buyer satisfaction. PM for more information or if you have any questions. =

My comments were only about single fiber cables, as I have no experience with multi fiber cables, and my comment above did not mention or refer to them. I use of 3 or 4 mm Toslink cables, have no need for the more complicated variety. As I have seen single fiber cables lose light transmission when put in hot water to coil them, my point is there is no need to coil the cables as when kept straight they transmit more light; they readily available from Amazon or eBay for a low price; plus they are tough, simple to use, and always fire the strobe.

Fiber Optic Cables do not need coils except to make it easy for cable makers to sell a single model of cable that can be stretched to fit the needs of different photographers. Otherwise, Cables with Coils can get caught on outside objects and pulled off, they flop around and are a nuisance. I learned this the hard way while diving when one of my coiled cables was inadvertently kicked off, and lost, by the dive guide. Another important drawback to coils is that they double or more the length of the cable, thereby significantly cutting down the amount of light that reaches the strobe. Coiling requires heating the cable, as in hot water, and heating is well known to "cook" the optic fiber, making it opaque and markedly reducing the light transmitted. Both the added cable length and the reduced light may explain why some strobes such as the Sea&Sea are said not to fire consistently with coiled fiber optic cables. Coiling requires a thin cable, and thin cables break easily, two or three of mine have broken, like brittle spaghetti, during daily use. In contrast, thicker cables with no coils, ie, Toslink, in my experience have always triggered Inon and Sea&Sea strobes of several models, have not gotten caught on external objects nor interfered with the taking of photos. To ensure one has a cable sufficiently long for other, longer strobe arms, it is easy to make it long enough so one can thread or wind the cable around the arms being used, and to add one or more wraps for the spare length. It is important to use Toslink of 3 or 4 mm o.d. as it is much tougher than the 1 or 1.5 mm cable, and transmits much more light, at almost no additional cost. These thicker cables do not break, in my experience. In brief, to fire a strobe from an underwater housings, a short, thick, un-coiled straight fiber optic cable is much tougher, and carries much more light than a long, thin, coiled cable. It always fires the strobe, is inexpensive, dependable and easy to make, with few if any problems. ==

WTB Subal standard viewfinder

Available at a bargain price.

Available

Still available

Still looking for good home.

As Algwyn observes, coiling the fiber optic cables is not useful, as the coil floats about, is in the way, and can get caught; in fact, the coils waste cable as they are not necessary at all. All I do is thread the cable thru the holes in my strobe arms, and wind any excess around the clamps and arms. That way the cable is secure, out of harms way and well organized. (I had described this approach in this thread, on Sept 21, 2017).

For Sale - Sea&Sea Coiled Sync Cord, 5 pin Sea&Sea type connectors, with caps (with one extra cap, not shown), perfect condition - like new. Several cords are available for sale. $ 40- each, $35- ea if two cords or more, plus $9 US shipping. Paypal. My eBay rating is 100% buyer satisfaction.

Hi, Tinman: The first person to contact me was the first to send me the shipping costs, but not until 5 days after the notice had been posted. Everybody else had those days to contact me and send the shipping cost. Day before yesterday I shipped him the handles, they are gone. Sorry for any inconvenience or disappointment but everybody else had plenty of time to act. The funny thing is that some months ago I put these same handles up for sale at about 1/4 of their market value, and nobody was interested. But when they were offered Free to Good Diver, several persons have expressed strong feelings and feel victimized because somebody else was first. My decision was based on the simple First Come - First Served. Over and out.

Thank you, Tim, for your kind words.

mosf was second in line, and was wondering about shipping costs to Italy. He had not committed and had not paid shipping costs. The first Wetpixeler in line paid: The early bird got the worm.

As Algwyn says above, the 4 mm fibers, and in my experience the 3 mm Toslink single fiber cables, transmit abundant light and trigger both Sea & Sea and Inon strobes in a highly reliable manner. One can use Uxcell strain relief boot protectors from Amazon, they are 7 mm diameter and work fine. I glue the cable to the Uxcell boot with ABS glue, then trim the end with a sharp razor. The resulting cable is inexpensive, simple, tough and excellent, those are the words that best describe them.