Kraken de Mabini

You might consider ReefPhoto, $104 US https://reefphoto.com/collections/subal-ports/products/subal-port-bayonet-adaptor-for-3-ports-on-4-housings

Hi Bill: I looked up Industrial Fiber Optics and they sell several makes and models of multi-strand f.o. cable. Which one do you recommend? Thank you. Elias A.

Thank you for posting, a well done and interesting video, most enjoyable!

Agree, a Strap Wrench may be the correct tool for the job. It may help to first apply silicon spray or liquid detergent to the housing-port joint, and allow to soak in for a few hours, to lubricate and to soften any trapped residue.

Sad Olympus news! Now I will treasure even more my Olympus Tough TG5 with Oly housing, they are a great combination. Time now to build for them a tray with my two spare ULCS tray handles and two strobes.

Digikey and Mouser Electroncis, excellent suggestions. I will add super bright red LED's to my electronic parts shopping list. Thank you. ps. Previously I had bought from three eBay sellers, whose "super bright" turned out to be, no surprise, "super weak" LED's.

I have used and continue to use Toslink single strand fiber-optic cables with a Nauticam NA-D500 housing, Subal ND800, 7100 and 500 housings, all with excellent performance. The Nauticam NA-D500 and Subal ND500 housings have LED triggers; and with Toslink fiber optic cables they have consistently, without problem, fired the Sea&Sea YS-D2 and -D2J, and Inon D2000, Z240 and Z300 strobes. Older models of housings with LED triggers (such as Nauticam) may have weaker trigger LEDs which emit insufficient light to trigger the strobes. This may be why some recommend the multi strand fiber optic cables, which do conduct more light and will be needed with weak LED's. Another solution would be to replace the old weak LED's in older triggers with new high intensity red LED's, which are inexpensive and easy to replace with a small soldering iron. But thus far I have not been able to find where to buy them, and information on a reliable source will be appreciated..

Still for Sale: Best Offer and free US shipping.

Is the Tokina lens for a Nikon, or a Canon, or ...?

Hi, I have a Subal GW45 viewfinder which, I read somewhere, is a modified Inon 45 vf. The male thread is 1 mm, the o.d. of the male is 25.5 mm and the threaded part is 5 mm long with only 3 threads. The retaining ring i.d. is 25 mm, od is 34 mm, thickness is 3 mm. I am not a machinist, my temptation would be to make the ring out of ABS, and heat mold or pour the threads. Maybe that would be strong enough, or it would serve as a template for a definitive aluminum ring. But I would first contact Mr Chia Ming at Fun-In, Taiwan, or Mr. Kevin Palmer at Reef Photo in Florida, and if they have it, ask they please mail the ring in a first class letter envelope. Otherwise the buyer gets nailed by the postal and handling fee. Cheers!

The postal charge is a big high, but postage has grown to Everest heights these days. Suggestions: 1. Contact Mr. Chia-Ming at Fun-In (http://www.fun-in.com.tw/oc/index.php?route=common/home) or DiverVision, maybe they can mail it in a regular envelope for less. 2. Visit your local camera stores, maybe they have a metric thread ring. 3. Visit a local machine shop, maybe they can make a ring for you. Please tell us when you find a solution. Good luck!

Subal C20 Housing is in excellent fully working condition, with viewfinder, Subal FP110-3 port, housing and port covers, extra O rings for body and port. Canon EOS 20D Camera in perfect shape with lens cover, battery and charger, memory card, and shoulder strap. Paypal $199 + $30 US shipping ($55 other countries). My eBay rating is 100% Buyer Satisfaction.

The Inon Z330 Manual has instructions to control flash mode and intensity on pp 21-23. 1. Push in and lock the Advanced Cancel Switch, the lower right. 2.Set the Main Mode switch (upper left) to M (or Full if needed). 3.The EV Control Switch (upper right) controls the flash output. = ReefPhoto has this for some previous Inon flashes, like the D2000 and Z240: https://reefphoto.com/blogs/lighting/selecting-the-proper-settings-for-inon-strobes-1 ADVANCED CANCEL CIRCUIT This feature is for use with External Auto and Manual Modes when using pre-flash type cameras. The circuit reproduces the camera’s pre-flash, but at higher intensity than the camera flash. This creates optimum underwater performance, faster recycle time for the camera flash, quicker follow-up shots, and longer camera battery life. To accomplish this, the INON emits a pre-flash up to 22 times stronger than the camera pre-flash. The camera 'sees' this strong pre-flash, judges the subject to be close to the camera, and decreases the power (duration) of the main flash by the camera. The minimal main flash by the camera results in faster recycle time of the camera flash, and extended camera battery life. If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled. The ACC is ON by default, but can be disabled in one of two ways, depending on the model of strobe: Strobes with a Magnet Hole Strobes with a Dial Switch For models with a magnet hole type switch, insert the provided magnet and secure in place using the provided retaining screw to disable ACC. For models with a dial type switch, depress the dial and rotate to lock in the depressed position to disable ACC.

I coat and polish my housing with silicone grease to prevent water spots and damage. Careful drying of the glass surfaces, viewfinder and housing immediately after each dive is most important to prevent water from drying and forming deposits or white spots. Before a dive trip, I lightly coat the housing with inexpensive silicone lubricant, the kind sold for swimming pools and mechanical use, and polish it with a soft cloth. The silicone protects the finish, fills in microscopic pores and gaps, and gives the housing a nice glow. After diving I dunk the housing in cheap vinegar. I buy a gallon (4 L) of inexpensive cooking vinegar, and after diving, sink the housing with viewfinder and port in 50/50 vinegar/water for a day or so. This dilute vinegar can be kept and reused. Once dry, I again lightly coat the housing with the inexpensive silicone lubricant and rub it with a soft cloth. My Nauticam and Subal housings look like new, even after several years of use.

After rereading the problem, it does seem to be a defect, such as a partial break, in one fiber optic cable A partial break can at times be located by careful examination. If the defect is near one of the end plugs, then depending on the make of the cable, the short defective length can be discarded and the end plug reconnected. For a replacement it may be better make one's cables out of Toslink and grommets, as described here: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/&tab=comments#comment-387130 One big advantage of making one's own Toslink fiber optic cables is that they are break resistant, inexpensive and easy to repair.

"One cable emits a bright light and the other problem cable emits a much dimmer light" Yes, my new Subal ND500 LED trigger had the same problem. This trigger has two separate circuits on its board, for each LED. One circuit was defective, the LED was continuously half On and did not fire with sufficient light to trigger the strobe. I had to replace the trigger with a new one. To check your LED trigger, plug it in the camera's hot shoe, turn the camera On, both LED's should be Off. If one LED is half On, its circuit is defective. When youshoot the camera both LED's should flash with equal intensity. If one LED is dim, you need to contact your dealer for a replacement. Good luck! Please let us know what happens.

I agree with the above, an air integrated, wrist mounted, easy to read computer plus a separate air pressure gauge as a backup, just in case.

Hi Jeff: About your Kraken strobes turning off by themselves, you might contact a Kraken dealer such as Scott Gietler at Blue Water Photo - sales@bluewaterphotostore.com. Please tell us if his answer helped solve the problem, or when you figure it out. Elias

Or you can make your own fiber optic cable to Inon strobe adapter for a few pennies out of heat shrink tube. The Wetpixel post with instructions is here: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-413280 The adapter can be made of heat shrink, electrical insulation tube from the hardware store in a few minutes. I have used these adaptors for many dives with Inon D2000, Z240 types 1 to 4 and Z330 strobes. I carry a spare, just in case. Inexpensive, works perfectly, and easy to replace.

Hi, it looks like a Subal 200 mm, 8 inch port. I too got this dome port, in perfect condition as part of a Subal ND20 rig, together with its extension port. http://www.subal.com/a134c15c13/Ports_Gears_Viewfinders/Dome_ports/DP_230_dome_port.aspx I believe the Subal name for this port is something like the 8 or 8.25 inch dome port. From time to time eBay sells the Canon C20 (?) camera body for next to nothing, to complete the camera-housing package. I have yet to dive with it, will have to wait until the Corvid epidemic quiets.

This illustration of underwater strobe connectors, by make, was in my old photos, but I do not know where it came from. It may help identify the bulkhead connector in an older housing, such as the Subal ND2.

Yes, it is still available, with a standard Subal viewfinder, T3 port and extra O-rings, as posted above.

The ND2 does not have ports for fiber optic cables, Subal first used these ports about 2012, as in the ND7000 housing. That means you will have to use cables with 5 pin plugs at the Sea&Sea strobe end and match the pins on the housing bulkheads at the other end of the cable. My Subal-Nikon housings have all had 5 pin bulkheads, but you have to check and proceed accordingly, Nikonos vs Ikelite type plugs. Installing a vacuum leak detector will require a separate M1x14 or 16 mm bulkhead, first check that the housing has one available, then order a Vivid detector with an electric vacuum pump from Miso, he is a super person: Miso Milivojevic, info@vividhousings.com. For the strobe arms I would suggest studying the Ultra Light Control Systems on-line catalogue. Their 45 degree slide-on ball mounts work well. You might consider some float arms. A ball mount for the finding light at the top center of the housing is quite useful: https://www.ulcs.com/index.php/products/slr-camera-housings Should you need Subal T3 ports, please let me know, I have some spares. Best of luck!

Here is a preliminary, commercial review of the YS-D3, no uw photos. https://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/sea-and-sea-ys-d3-strobe-review?utm_source=Bluewater+PHOTO+Newsletter&utm_campaign=49797e57f1-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_04_10_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_e7c41d298c-49797e57f1-310877389

A simple price comparison from two reliable merchants: Inon Z330 $571 now shipping from Fun In Taiwan Photographic Equipment Sea&Sea YS-D3 $850 special order from B&H Photo, New York. NY. I found no other on-line sellers for the YS-D3.