Kraken de Mabini

Just watched it again, enjoyed it twice as much as the first time.

Lovely collection of fotos, I enjoyed each and all, congratulations! Felicitaciones!!

In aerosol foam the gas is at atmospheric pressure and the foam is soft, so that the water pressure will collapse it as one submerges, bear in mind the ocean water pressure is bit over 100 gm per sq cm per meter of depth*. For repair, it may be better to use carbon fiber and epoxy. - - * 100 cm to a meter, 1.0273 g of weight per cubic cm of water. At 33 feet depth, ~10 M, the pressure will be one plus kilo per sq cm, and the foam will be completely collapsed.

Sure of what? Discontinued? You ask a valid question, as locally Bluewater Photo has discontinued the Nauticam floats, but Backscatter has them for sale. I would, before attempting a repair, take the defective float to my dealer for replacement or repair, and if that failed, I would contact Nauticam directly. That is, assuming I had not bashed the float against a rock or otherwise damaged it myself.

Nauticam seems to have discontinued the carbon float arms, so maybe they are a problem product. As a drill hole or epoxy patch may void a warranty, it seems better to first take the arm to your dealer and ask for a replacement or return. Keep us posted.

SOLD! Thank you for watching

My trusty old Inon D2000 strobe just retired, no more flash. To replace it I am considering a new Inon D200 vs a good Z240 Type 4, to backup my two Z330's. Your suggestions and comments will be much appreciated.

All the above are most helpful suggestions. I just sent you a PM

Going, Going, GONE! Thank you for watching.

This is how to remove the magnet, from a 2019 post: "On the Inon Z240, D2000 and D180 (and probably other Inon's), the push button assemblies for the light and TTL, located on the strobe's back, unscrew from it for access to the magnets, without having to open the strobe case. "Push the button in (don't turn it) and push a wire or a pin through the holes on the site to fix it. Than turn out the whole thing anticlockwise. This is by the way also the method to open the light switch button." wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/43696-z240-manual-problem/ Best of luck! Edited December 23, 2019 by Kraken de Mabini"

Great system at great price, make an offer!

DIY Hot Shoe Electric Plug. As electric plugs for a camera’s hot shoe are difficult to find (1), I have built three versions which can be used to trigger an external device. Plug 1. The plug core is made of sheet metal from a food can, sanded with fine sand paper to remove the plastic coating. The side edges are folded to slide into the camera's hot shoe. A 10 mm center hole accesses the camera’s hot shoe center contact. The rear edge is bent up as a pull tab (Fig 1 & 2) A small square of ABS plastic is glued to this plug, with a hole in its center for a small, oval head screw. Two thin insulated wires about 8 cm long are soldered one to the screw and the other to the pull tab (Figs 3 & 4). I have used this plug to trigger a photo flash, and it has worked every time. Plug 2. A black plastic hot shoe protector, like the one included with a new camera (or from eBay) is the main part of the plug. It has two contacts (Fig 5) a) The first contact is through a 5 mm diam. hole, aligned with the camera’s central ground contact, to hold the coil spring from a ball point pen. A short length of electric wire is soldered to the spring, and a small drop of ABS glue secures it in place. b) For the second contact, a 1 mm lengthwise slot is cut, front to back, along the top edge of the protector with a hacksaw, to make room for the lengthwise wire contact. The contact is made from wire is cut from a large (50 mm long) paper clip, and one of its ends, 5mm long, is bent sharply at a right angle. Parallel to the front edge of the protector, a hole is drilled horizontally through the upper level of the protector to accept the bent end of this wire (Fig 6, not to scale). The wire is laid in slot cut above, and the bent end of the wide is plugged into the drilled hole. The wire is secured to the slot with a small amount of ABS glue (Fig 5). The middle length of the wire is kept bare to connect with the camera’s hot shoe. A short length of insulated thin electric wire is soldered to the wire’s far end. This plug should fit snugly in the camera’s hot shoe. I tested the connections for continuity with an ohmmeter. Plug 3) This plug is battery powered by a coin battery holder glued to its base with ABS cement. The battery’s positive is connected to a red wire (Fig 7). The battery’s negative is connected through the coil spring to the camera’s hot shoe’s center contact; the hot shoe ground frame is connected to the shoe’s side contact wire, and to a white wire. The circuit is closed each time a picture is taken, to fire an LED strobe trigger, for example. 1. Reference: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66895-hot-shoe-plug-where-to-get-one/&tab=comments#comment-422528 . = =

I purchased the housing and one Nikon D7100 from Mark on Sunday, he shipped them to me on Monday, responsive to all my questions, great person to deal with,.

It sounds like your new Nauticam TTL trigger is defective or improperly mounted. I would take it, with the housing and strobes, to the dealer to correct or replace it. Or write directly to Nauticam, see what they suggest, or ask for a replacement trigger. As for the Z240 TTL magnets, any dealer should be able to replace them in a few minutes, as the button is simply unscrewed, magnet replaced and button screwed back in, if I remember correctly. .

Wonderful video, you did full justice to my underwater favorites, many thanks.

Hi, I have the Inon 0.5 white diffuser, new, in box with printed brochure. I am sending you a PM with details.

FREE TO GOOD HOME: Sea&Sea Diffuser for the YS-D1, D2 & D3 strobes, 120, new, white. Also a User Manual for the S&S YS D1 strobe. Reason: I need to organize my storage. Each diffuser: $8 for US postage, one per person. The User Manual: $2 for postage. Paypal. Please PM.

Price reduced to $2,299-

UPDATE to the VIVID VACUUM LEAK DETECTOR AVAILABILITY: Just today Miso contacted me and and told me that contrary to a few rumors, the Vivid Vacuum Lead Detector line is Alive & Well, with several new additions to the line. The email is : Vividhousings info@vividhousings.com

I just sent you a PM.

Re lens port bayonets, each manufacturer uses a different system. For example, Subal ports have 2 bayonet pins or tongues, Sea & Sea 3, Nauticam 8, there is no standard port system. Some manufacturers adopt the bayonet design of others, for example, Isotta uses the Sea&Sea 3 bayonets, and also makes adapter rings to accept other ports, say from Subal.

B&H has written an excellent narration of these new memory cards, here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/cfexpress-the-next-serious-media-format

Hello Tim: Thank you for the excellent news. I was apprehensive as he had not replied, and Backscatter lists the vacuum equipement as no longer available. I am delighted Miso is alive and well, will follow up today. Elias

Is the Vivid Housing Leak Sentinel Vacuum System still available? Does any one have reliable information if Vivid is in business, if Miso is all right, or of what may have happened? I ask as I have e-mailed Miso, the owner, several times and received no reply. With the Covid virus stalking the land, one worries. If you have reliable information, please tell us, it will be most welcome.