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Kraken de Mabini

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Posts posted by Kraken de Mabini

  1. The electric cable connects the Ikelite strobe to an Ikelite converter.

    4401.3-fiber-optic-adapter-a_small.jpg?v=1537847937 The left side, screw end of the Ikelite converter accepts one end of a fiber optic cable.
    The other end of the cable plugs into the housing, and transmits the camera's flash to trigger the Ikelite converter.   
     In addition to two converters, you will need two fiberoptic cables, two screw on adapters to hold the fiberoptic cables to the converters, and two Nauticam screw on receptacles to secure the fiberoptic cables to the housings fiberoptic ports. These are:   

    a. 2 Ikelite converters #4401.3,

    b. 2 fiberoptic screw-on adapters for the Ikelite converters,

    c. 2 Nauticam housing screw-on adapter caps for fiberoptic cables, Reef Photo [Kevin Palmer] should know the names of b) and c),

    d. 2 fiberoptic cables with standard 7 mm male plugs at each end

    Or instead of b, c and d, you can use two Nauticam Universal Fiber Optic Cables (Nau-26216) from Blue Water.    It may be a good idea for you to first call the dealer and check that these are the correct items. 

    Nauticam Universal Fiber Optic Cable, 26216
      Good luck!


  2. Hi, if you contact Linda Blanchard at OCUPS.org, she may have the forms and/or some suggestions, as she is the President of the Orange County Underwater Photo Society.

    Bill VanAntwerp, a frequent contributor to these pages,  is the President of the Los Angeles Underwater Photo Society, and maybe he too can provide suggestions or forms.

    Good luck!

  3. For the Nauticam 45 viewfinder I got the

    Inon viewfinder mounting ring NA-33107 from Backscatter,  

    as Isotta and Inon use the same size viewfinder hole in their housings.   (The Isotta viewfinder hole is too small for Subal viewfinders)

    But please do not take my word for this, first talk with Backscatter, they are most helpful and -professional  (as is Reef Photo in Florida.)
    - - -

    I have  had pleasant experiences dealing with Eliza at Isotta, prompt professional replies. I took my Isotta apart, (I take everything apart except my cameras) and put it together again, no problems, it is really easy to maintain.  



  4. My experience with viewfinders is with Isotta, Subal and Nauticam housings.  For all three housings, the view with the "small" optical viewfinder is quite limited and 'hard to use', as it can be difficult to find and frame the subject, not enjoyable. In contrast, the large view finders, straight-180 and 45 degrees, are a pleasure to use, and well worth the cost.  

  5. Regarding Nauticam vs Isotta housings, I had a Nauticam for my Nikon D800, a fine housing but requires an expert to service.  I then switched to a Subal, also a fine housing but a bit expensive,  and now have an Isotta housing.  The Isotta is easy to use, and has the added advantages of lower price and is quite easy to take apart to service the buttons and levers, the Isotta staff reply promptly to inquiries. I intend to keep the Isotta housing.  


  6. Regarding Crystal Blue Resort in Anilao, Mike Bartick flew back to Manila some days ago,  spent 10 days in quarantine, and now should be at the Resort getting it ready for the time when the Philippines open to visitors again.  The critters should be really good, unless the locals have depleted the fish while the divers have been absent. 
    Personally, after almost a 2 year absence, I can't wait to dive there again.  

  7.  Backscatter sells it for $299 and the snoot for $49.99. It has no TTL that I can see, maybe that is why it has a low price relative to other strobes.
    DivePhotoGuide says: 

    '"OI has announced it is joining the select club of underwater strobe makers with the launch of its first flash unit—the Ultra Compact Strobe Q1 (UCS-Q1). According to AOI, the entry-level strobe is designed with simplicity in mind, and offers only manual control of flash power and features just two buttons and one knob.

    The Q1 features a built-in 700-lumen continuous light with three power settings, which can be used for macro photography, as a focus light, and as a dive torch. It also offers a modeling flash function, which fires a short burst of flashes to help users aim and position the strobe as desired—especially useful when using a snoot. The strobe has a non-removable ball arm and comes with a diffuser, which provides a beam angle of 85 degrees. The strobe requires two rechargeable 18650 lithium batteries.

    Available in black or white, the AOI Ultra Compact Strobe Q1 has an MSRP of $300 and is shipping soon."







    1. https://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-scuba-ocean-news/aoi-announces-q1-ultra-compact-strobe
    2. www.aoi-uw.com, www.facebook.com/AoiUw or aoi-underwater
    on Wechat.

  8. Hi, I agree with Padimsdt, with a minor difference.  When I started it 10 years ago, it was with Ikelite strobes and housing, they were a bit heavy, difficult to use and triggered with electric cables. 

    After leak and cable problems, I switched to Sea & Sea and Inon strobes with fiber optic cables, wow! so much easier, tougher and problem free!  Same with the housing, I switched to Subal and now Isotta housings, both great, simplified my life and allowed me to concentrate on taking pictures.  (Nauticam is also a super housing, but requires professional servicing, while Isotta and Subal can be serviced by the user, a big saving when the time comes).   

    But on the simpler side, the Olympus Tough camera and its housing take amazingly good photos, are a great way to start with no regrets and later on can be a great back up camera, I gave mine to a lovely lady who for the past four years has been taking excellent photos with it, even used it to document her discovery of a new nudibranch in Ambon, Indonesia. Good luck!


  9. Back in 2017 Pavel Kolpakov had some suggestions on trouble shooting the YS-D1 strobe (1)

    This flashing strobe sounds like the trigger photo-transistor or the high voltage transistor circuit that closes the xenon flash circuit is defective.  Replacement should be relatively easy, except that the insides of the strobe are tightly packed with circuit boards and delicate wires, which makes the repair tricky and uncertain, and justifiably expensive. As the YS-D1 dates from early 2012, it might be better to buy a new strobe or two, as quite a lot has been learned since then about how to design and build strobes.

    1. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/59936-troubleshooting-ys-d1-sea-and-sea-strobe/


  10. The problem probably may be in the camera, or less so in the S&S optical converter. 

    Remove the camera and go thru the Menu check all items, particularly the Flash menu, and check each item carefully, particularly the External Flash Function.  Now set the camera to Auto, one exposure, and try it, then Manual, one exposure,  and try it.  

    Examine the flash hot shoe, make sure all the contacts are very clean with nothing stuck between them.  Same for the optical converter hot shoe plug, check that the contacts are clean and shiny. 

    While you are at it, it won't hurt to check all the batteries, fully charged with no leaks or corrosion.  

    If the multi flash persists, remove the camera from the housing, attach an external flash and take some shots to see if it flashes once per shot.  If not, take the camera to a shop. 

    If the camera flashes once per shot as it should, but when connected to the S&S converter, the converter flashes multi times, the problem is in the converter.  A Sea&Sea agent should know what to do.

    Let us know what happens.  Good luck!

  11. As background, standard HiFi Cables (Toslink cables) were originally proposed by Neopreneninja of Denmark in 2008(1), and endorsed by a number of Wetpixelers (2), while i-Fiber cables were, I believe, first suggested by Bill VanAntwerp in 2017 (2).

    At present, iFiber cable seems to be rarely used for DIY, as I was unable to find somebody in Wetpixel, other than Bill, who has access to it. But I would not hesitate to use it, if available.

    Let us review some points: 
    Reliability: I have used Toslink cables in a Nauticam D500 housings with internal LED triggers, and the strobes flashed flawlessly, same as in Subal ND500 and Isotta D500 housings with internal LED triggers, and Subal ND800 and ND7100 housings with the camera flash as trigger. The strobes I have used are S&S YS-D2J, Inon S2000, Inon Z240 and Inon Z330. Toslink has not failed me, not once, nor have I read that it has failed others while in use. Also, since 2008 there have been no complaints about Toslink cables by Wetpixelers that I am aware of. 

    Cable failure is always a possibility; there are at least two ways for Toslink, or any fiber optic cable made of translucent plastic, to fail: one, the light fiber breaks, which has yet to happen to me, and two, the light fiber is damaged (rendered opaque) by heat, such as dipping the cable for too long (for more than about 5 or 10 seconds) in boiling water to coil it. Multi-core plastic cable is resistant to breakage, but may be susceptible to heat.

    Price and availability: i-Fiber cable is  overpriced relative to Toslink, and obtaining it in the US is an exercise in frustration as the seller sometimes will sell short lengths, other times not. I say this as I phoned the seller some days ago and was told they only sold 500 meter spools; also, the group-buy as of today (Oct 4,2021) is running into delivery problems (3).
    In contrast, I can get Toslink cable at a low price, from eBay and Amazon, delivered to my home in a few days. 

    In the future, I hope i-Fiber cables of 1 and 1.5 mm, become easily available, as I know they will test well and be widely accepted. The more kinds of cables - inexpensive, reliable, tough and readily available - we have to flash our strobes, the better.

    1. Really Cheap Optical Cables, bNeopreneninja, March 28,2008. (First use of Toslink cable).  https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23789-really-cheap-optical-cables/&tab=comments#comment-173303

    2. DIY fiber optic writeup with parts, by Chrisdarke  https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/  2017 ( Practical points on using Toslink cable and Uxcell plugs by chrisdarke,
    i-Fiber proposed by Bill VanA, followed by members' lively give and take discussion).

    3. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/68006-group-buy-for-613-core  cable/page/4/&tab=comments#comment-431730, note of Oct 4, 2021.


  12. The Isotta Housing viewfinder mounting hole is compatible with Inon viewfinders.

    I used a "Nauticam Viewfinder Mounting Ring for Inon Housing" from Backscatter to mount my 45 degree Nauticam viewfinder: part NA-33107

    Fotografit sells this ring:  https://fotografit.eu/products/42-viewfinder-adapters/440-na-viewfinder-mounting-ring-for-inon-/


    • Like 1

  13. Dear Wolfgang:

     Most of my housings have been Subal, but I also had a Nauticam D500 which I sold.  I now use the Isotta D500 and it is a fine housing.  I use a Nauticam 45 degree viewfinder with it, with an adapter.  

    Thus far everything has worked on the Isotta housing; out of curiosity I have taken apart the controls and they are simple to remove, repair and restore, something I was not able to do on the Nauticam. 

    Isotta is a fine housing, I recommend it. 


    • Like 1

  14. Currently several Wetpixelers have an ongoing group-buy of  i-Fiber optic cable (1).  This cable appears to be untested and requires a team effort to obtain, while inexpensive fiber optic cables, either DIY or complete, are tested and readily available.

    a) Single fiber Toslink cable, about $1 to $2 per meter, outer diameter of 2.2 mm or 4 mm, is sold by Amazon and eBay (2). I have made several 2 mm, 3 mm and 4 mm Toslink cables and all consistently flashed the strobes. The connectors (plugs) are secured to the cable by pressure, or with plumbers ABS cement (Fig 1).


    Sources: Amazon sells 7mm connectors as Uxcell 7 mm o.d. strain relief protectors. Fun-In Photography and DiverVision in Taiwan, Backscatter and Reef Photo in the US, sell rubber and L-shaped connectors. The rubber connectors hold one or two cables, the L-shaped connectors hold the cable in a curved, 6 mm radius, conduit (Fig. 2).


    b) Ready to Use, Low Cost Cables:  AliExpress sells low cost Tooke fiber optic cables (3). In case of breakage, I would carry a spare cable while diving, but have not had the opportunity to use these Tooke cables. Amazon also sells low cost coiled cables. 

    c) Fiber patch cable: I built and tested, but do not recommend, a multi- glass fiber cable (also known as ‘fiber patch cable’) (Fig. 2), sold by Amazon or Vandesail, as it is difficult to cut and the multi fibers bunch up at the cut end (Fig. 3). When tested, it transmitted light unreliably as it flashed a new Inon S2000 strobe, but not an older D2000 strobe.


    Conclusion:  While we await the results of the i-Fiber cable group-buy, the Toslink cable with Uxcell connectors may be the top choice for a reliable, low cost, DIY fiber optic cable.

    1. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/68006-group-buy-for-613-core-fiber-cable/

    2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYM5XCR?pf_rd_r=9YK6RC8J1KYRF3TTMK6Q&pf_rd_p=8fe9b1d0-f378-4356-8bb8-cada7525eadd&pd_rd_r=22f45633-65a6-4f06-a8d6-3a37cf203a15&pd_rd_w=rQREn&pd_rd_wg=eC6Dj&ref_=pd_gw_unk 

    https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-27mmx7mmx4mm-strait-relief protector/dp/B00XBG5U82/ref=sr_1_11?child=1&keywords=uxcell+strain+relief&qid=1632787913&sr=8-11 (uxcell 20pcs 27mmx7mmx4mm Micro Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector)  

    3. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32966164929.html?spm=2114.12057483.detail.3.17d34826fOubSx

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