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Kraken de Mabini

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Everything posted by Kraken de Mabini

  1. Subal Housing Port Mount Ring, Type 4, for small style Subal housing: new, never used, with O ring, $30 + $8 US shipping, Paypal
  2. Excellent video on Fish Photography, well worth the time to watch and learn from it.
  3. 2 Tray ULCS Handles, Free to Good Wetpixel home. These two tray handles, ULCS or Ikelite, are in excellent, fully working condition, have removable top ball mounts for a flash or light, and bottom screw mounts for a tray. The grips are molded heavy duty rubber. No damage or dings, everything is very clean, with a smooth finish, and works perfectly, as it should. These handles were included in bundle of UW stuff I bought on eBay and as I have not used them, I hope they can live in a good Wetpixel UW photography home. They are free, just the US postage $ 14, Paypal. (My eBay rating is 100% user satisfaction)
  4. UW camera tray, free to good Wetpixel home. This UW camera tray is made of heavy duty alodized aluminum, is very sturdy and fully functional, with marks of healthy use. The camera mounting screw is the standard 1/4-20 with a large knurled knob, the handle has a built-in standard ball mount for a flash. This tray was in a bundle of eBay UW stuff I bought, and now is part my cellar clean-out. Free to a good Wetpixeler, $12 US post, Paypal.
  5. For Sale - Subal Port 110 / 3 with front & back covers, in excellent condition, no scratches or dings. This Subal port is 110 mm when mounted, and its inner length to accommodate a lens is 100 mm. Type 3 mount, with O-ring. Front and back Subal covers are included. The port is like new, no scratches or dings, the glass is perfect. $100 plus $10 shipping in US, Paypal. (My Paypal rating is 100% buyer satisfaction).
  6. For Sale - Subal Port Extension EXR-50 type 3 in excellent shape, no damage, no dings, O ring is included. When mounted on a housing, the extension is 50 mm. long. $64 plus $12 US shipping, Paypal.
  7. Free ?Isotta Short Port, M67 for Canon Gxx housing? Free to Good Wetpixel Diver. This port was in an equipment package I bought on eBay, and I am guessing it is Isotta. The port has three bayonet lugs, the glass is perfect, and it is in fine working condition. Outer diameter is 90 mm, bayonet lug outer diameter is 70mm. It is free, just Paypal for the shipping, $10 in the US, $16 foreign.
  8. Great video, most enjoyable! I love the scene at ~1:00 of the two scorpion fish "kissing" *. Also, great shots of the whale shark. Thank you for posting and congratulations! * Yes, yes, I know they are having a difference of opinion as to how is the boss.
  9. Buenos dias, Don Julio: Subal EXR 18/4: Que tal 50 eu + 15 eu para el correo a California, Paypal? Gracias y saludos, Elias Amador 68.elias@gmail.com (e-mail y direccion en Paypal)
  10. What Sting Ray and Great White say about lead vacuum testing is clear and correct. The only times I do a camera free dunk is after I have been working on the housing, such as replacing small O-rings or similar, and the housing shows a leak during a vacuum test. Otherwise I do not bother with a dunk test. For daily diving, after I have installed the camera in the housing and sealed it, I do a vacuum test and check the green LED flasher every half hour or so for a couple of hours, or overnight. If the vacuum holds for two or more hours, the housing with camera is ready to dive, it tells me a water dunk test is redundant. Let us compare the Water Tank vs the Vacuum test. The water tank test uses the atmospheric pressure plus the small water pressure (depth of water in the test tank) to try and force water into the housing. The test is simple, and if no bubbles arise, usually takes a minute or so. The vacuum test uses specialized electronics to test the difference between the atmospheric pressure and the negative (vacuum) pressure inside the housing. The test is dry and if the vacuum holds for a few minutes to overnight, one can go diving without further ado. In practice, the vacuum test is more useful than the tank dunk, as it continues to monitor the housing leak status during the dive with its re-assuring green blinking LED.
  11. Thank you for posting the Nauticam housing patent, it is hair raising to read, next to impossible to visualize and understand how the control levers are designed. I had a Nauticam NA D500 housing for my Nikon D500 camera, it worked just fine, never a problem for the 18 months I owned it. But as I like to service my own housings, and as I looked and looked at the levers in my housing, I realized it would be foolish for me to try to clean and service it when the time came, so I sold it while it was still working perfectly. I replaced it with a Subal housing, which like my other two Subals, is simple yet of elegant design, with all the controls accessible and easy to remove, clean and when needed, replace. Today I have serviced my Subal ND7100 housing, an easy and rewarding experience.
  12. Which Nikkor lens, say a Nikkor 12 - 24 mm, would you recommend for wide angle UW photography? And should I use a flat port or a dome for it? If a dome, one with a gentle or a marked curvature? Your opinion is much appreciated.
  13. As one who has dived in Sipadan several times before and after the terrorist attack, this is an excellent video, inclusive, great spirit. One minor point is a bit more light, particularly on the macro shots, would be welcome. Thank you and Congratulations!
  14. WTB Subal 100 mm dome port, such as the DP-54B with a gently curved dome, T3 or T4 mount, no scratches , clean glass. Please send PM with photo and details.
  15. Nauticam has several port charts, available on the web, which may make your search easier by specifying which port model it is you are looking for. For example: https://www.nauticam.com/pages/port-charts
  16. WTB Subal standard viewfinder: used, never flooded; no scratches, no fungus on glass. Please send PM with photo and details.
  17. Hi, Merry: I was just going through my Subal housing and equipment, and yes, your ring would live with a happy Subal clan. I have sent you a private note. Eli from Palos Verdes. right in with the Subal family. I will contact you separately. Elias
  18. The installation of a vacuum leak detector in this Nauticam NA-EM5 housing, as Humu797 says, looks possible, as I can see a bulkhead plug, maybe an M16, on the upper left front corner of the housing. With an M16 to an M14 adapter, one can install a Vivid Sentinel vacuum leak detector in a matter of minutes.
  19. The O rings used by the Leak Sentinel with a 14 x 1 male screw thread are 15 x 1 mm, The O-Ring Store has them. The O ring sits in a front-facing groove and needs to be removed and replaced with care. The battery is a CR 1/3N 3 V. blue color. These batteries differ slightly in length depending on the manufacturer, as the blue batteries are slightly longer than the steel colored ones; the blue ones fit the holder well. A piece of aluminum foil can be used to shim the shorter batteries.
  20. Emil Jaranilla (1) has asked for suggestions on a housing vacuum leak detector in the Classifieds Section, and here are some thoughts. Vacuum leak detectors use the change in air pressure inside the housing to detect a leak. The detector is electronic and quite small, it uses a small battery for power. The detector screws into the threaded bulkhead (threaded hole plugged with a screw plug) found in most larger camera housings; the thread is M14 or M16 x 1 mm. The detector has a green LED to signal if the vacuum is OK, or a pressure drop has occurred, a red LED blinks. After the camera has been mounted and the housing has been closed, air is pumped out of the housing with a hand pump or a small electric pump until the green LED blinks. I have used the Vivid electric pump for the past three or so years and it has worked well. Maintenance of the vacuum leak detector is simple, just keep it clean and check before dives that it is screwed in properly. Changing the battery takes about two minutes, I carry two spare batteries and O rings. Here is a photo of the entire assembly, with the vacuum pump at the bottom; the disassembled leak detector is shown above the 6 mm hex wrench. The electronic vacuum detector is the small round disk in the top middle, the blue battery is under it; the Allen hex wrench is used to tighten the mount ring; the electric pump is at the bottom with its screw-on hose on the left. The vacuum leak detector unit on the left, with the electronic vacuum detector unit on the right, it is the small white disc. The Vivid Vacuum Leak Detector can be purchased from a camera dealer or directly from Miso Milivojevic - info@vividhousings.com. Note: The moisture-water detector is a different and separate unit built by the manufacturer into most new larger camera housings; it has two bare electrodes mounted inside the housing’s bottom, so if water enters, current will flow between the electrodes to flash an alarm light and ring a loud bell or buzzer. Both units, vacuum and moisture, are essential for the safe operation of an underwater camera housing. - 1.
  21. Hello: Your best bet is the Vivid Leak Sentinel, with the electric vacuum pump. I have three Model 5 Leak Sentinels installed in my housings and they work great. I use the electric vacuum pump. Using them has saved me from some bad leaks. I highly recommend them. Cheers, Elias. https://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php#:~:text=LEAK SENTINEL V4 - pre dive,detector for any uw housing!&text=The housing is closed 15,starts blinking%2C indicating ambient pressure.&text=Green LED blinking indicates that,leakage (safe to dive).
  22. Amen to the above suggestions, all excellent. Regarding maintenance, I have owned both the Nauticam and the Subal housings for the D500 and the Subal has a simpler structure, easier to maintain; the word friendly come to mind. I have personally stripped and maintained five different Subal housings and they are all intuitive and easy, and use standard metric O rings. At present I own and use three Subals. Service direct from the factory has been fast, pleasant and dependable. Nauticam has a complicated lever structure, and looks forbidding to me unless somebody publishes a manual with maintenance details and parts sources. Being able to maintain a housing, such as when diving far from home, can make or break a dive trip, and needs to be considered when choosing one's housing. Some housings, such as Olympus, are next to impossible to repair, others such as Sea&Sea, Aquatica are quite easy, and Ikelite is somewhere in the middle.
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