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Kraken de Mabini

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Everything posted by Kraken de Mabini

  1. Once the strobe is repaired, or could not be, please post the details: Who repaired it, what was found, cost, does it now work well, etc. If repair was not possible, please also tell us, as all repair information is valuable for others with strobe problems. Best of luck!
  2. The second strobe should be set as Chris suggested here, following the Strobe manual pages 19-25, particularly pp 24 & 25. Set the second strobe at DS-TTL so it coordinates with the camera and first strobe. If you have doubts, first set the camera to M, set the strobes according to Chris and the Manual, at DS-TTL, then aim each strobe directly at the camera and take their photos, which should be flashed out. This will confirm the strobes are firing in sync and full power. Good luck!
  3. Never in the water, two Z330 strobes in brand new, perfect condition, no dings or scratches, each with light diffuser, original box, user manual, protective strobe jacket, silicon lubricant and Inon label. A new 25 mm (1 inch) ball mount and one fiber-optic cable or one Sea&Sea electric sync cable are included with each strobe (please specify which cable to include). These strobes have been tested and flash perfectly: They are ready to go, just add batteries, clamp to housing arms, and dive!. $525 each strobe, $999- both strobes. US shipping $12- eBay excellent seller rating. Paypal, pm please
  4. First item to check are the cables, if possible switch to fiber optic cables. Also the batteries and contacts. If they are OK, and the problem persists, then allow me to guess, based on what I saw after taking apart a Sea&Sea YS-D1 strobe. The switch contacts are buried in several layers of plastic that make up the back of the strobe, and carry the power to an incredibly complex solid state board, one of several boards inside the strobe; the circuit includes a micro computer, to give you an idea. The wiring that connects the boards is delicate, and soldered, not connected by plugs. What this says is that nothing inside the Sea&Sea strobes can be repaired, only replaced by the factory staff, should they feel like it, which they never do. I asked two major US outlets if they repaired defective S&S or Inon strobes, their reply was to buy a new one. Here my guess is the mode switch has a bad contact, maybe a tiny leak with corrosion, which keeps it from working in one particular mode. If I was in your fins, i would enjoy this strobe while it works, but prepare for its demise, ie, I would plan to buy a new strobe.
  5. Hi Bevan: When you fill in the details, would you please, for us electronic beginners, provide a parts list? Diode D1 Resistors R1 thru R5 Capacitors X7R type: C1 thru C3 Schmitt non-inverting or other SI 1 thru 4, (S1 NC714M5X, ?2, 3, 4) AND gate (? NC7S08MX5) battery type and number. Many thank you's
  6. As Wetpixel members use fiber optic cables and end plugs (adapters) to trigger underwater strobes, I have gathered some practical information about these cables, plugs, and their problems. Underwater Fiber Optic cables can are single or multi-fiber (strand), coiled or ‘straight’. Problem: Breakable Single Fiber Cables of 1 mm diameter, with a thin rubber coating are commonly sold. They are unreliable as the fiber breaks easily. It is important to watch out for, and not buy, them. Problem: Coiled cables, single or multi-strand, are a pain as the coil gets in the way, can get caught and lost while diving. As the coil stretches only a little, it is hardly useful. Coiled cables are best avoided. Some solutions are: Make one's own Toslink Cables with Uxcell Plug Ends A 2017 Wetpixel post by Chrisdarke and others describes how to make one's own fiber optic cables, using Toslink audio cable and Uxcell plugs (1). Both are inexpensive, tough, and readily available on the web, an excellent DIYchoice. Toslink cable is 3 mm o.d. with a 1.3 mm single light carrying fiber. Uxcell end plugs are glued to its end. The cable tip can be tapered with a razor blade, like sharpening a pencil, to fit tightly in the plug, then glued with rubber or ABS plumbers cement, and the tip cut with a razor to give a clean end. To keep the cable securely out of the way while diving, TimG suggests one weave it through the holes of the ULCS-style arms, where it is easy to remove, with no strain on either plug end (2). Multistrand Cables. Multistrand cables may be taking over the fiber optic cable world, as they are tougher and carry more light than single fiber cables. They have multiple fine fibers, from 9 up to 613 light conducting fibers per cable, and cost about $7.50 / meter. An example is the 613 core fiber cable, P/N MCQ-1500-22, made by Asahi Kasei in Japan. One advantage of a multistrand cable is it bends in the right angle of a Hotshot-style L-adaptor (2). Otherwise, a cable with a high number of fibers is hardly a must for strobe use, as cables with one, or a small number of strands, are also excellent choices to fire uw strobes (2), cost less and are easier to get. Cable End Plugs Most strobes and housings use the 7 mm diameter Sea&Sea type plugs (aka adapters or grommets) sold by Fun-In and DiverVision in Taiwan, and Amazon and uw photo stores elsewhere. The plugs are made of one piece rubber or plastic, with holes for 1.5 mm cable, or are L-shaped, with two halves joined by screws, and a central L-shaped cable groove. TimG tells us he uses a cable with Howshot L-adaptors at the housing end, and Inon double bush plugs at the Retra end. In his experience, the 613 and 217 core cables both work perfectly (2). I have used the Uxcell strain relief plugs with Toslink cables for over 4 years to fire my Sea&Sea YS-D2J's and Inon Z240 strobes; these cables and plugs are tough, inexpensive, readily available and have worked perfectly for me, with no problems. Complete Cables With Plugs UW photo stores such as Backscatter, Reef Photo, B&H, Amazon and others, including eBay, sell complete cables for prices ranging from $18 to $135 and higher. As far as I can tell, if the buyer’s goal is to buy a reliable, low price, multifiber cable, the price has no relation to quality. As it is important to avoid single fiber, breakable cables, one has to double check that the seller explicitly states the cable is multi-fiber. Buyer beware. Suggestions If you are not inclined to configure your own cable, my suggestion is to buy a low price multi-fiber cable complete with end fittings, (and preferably no coil, should such be available). If you are DIY inclined, I suggest making your own cables with Toslink cable and Uxcell ends from eBay or Amazon. References 1. DIY fiber optic writeup with parts. Chrisdarke, August 30, 2017. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60564 2. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/68006-group-buy-for-613-core-fiber-cable/ You can buy this fiber by the meter from this supplier: https://i-fiberoptics.com/fiber-detail-asahi.php 3. https://fiberfin.com/product/1-x-2-2mm-industrial-pof-cable-19-multi-core-ul-vw-1-rated-500-meter-spool/ 4. Uxcell 20pcs 27mmx7mmx4mm Micro Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBG5U82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 5. http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-l-for-seasea-ys-strobes-FAL-SS.html = End =
  7. There seem to be a few somewhat dubious beliefs about fiber optic cables circulating here. One is that the fiber optic cable has to have many strands for it to work; this is not so, a simple one stand cable works just fine, for example, the Toslink audio cable. Another is that the light conducting cable has to be well over 1 mm in diam. Not so as 1 mm cable always triggers the flash. A third is that the cable has to be coiled, but no reason is given for this. In fact, the coil wastes cable length, is a nuisance to make, gets in the way and is a hazard, as i have lost coiled cables when the coil got snagged or kicked by another diver. Bye bye cable. A fourth is that the cable has to be made of several dozen fibers. Not so, as a cable with fewer fibers or even just one fiber works just fine. In fact, one can save time and money with single fiber, no coil, one meter long Toslink or similar, cables. I have used these cables for several years, with zero problems as they have always triggered the flash; they are reliable, touch and inexpensive. I do not waste cable trying to make a coil, I just wrap the cable around the strobe arms to keep it neat and secure. Here are some cable sources: For Toslink, 50 ft $13: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015SQDW3M/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=8c93033b45bb44f07d093f8f99443d3a&hsa_cr_id=8431072700001&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=06b506f0-1a56-40a1-82f9-f67050722ed6&pd_rd_w=Fkj9b&pd_rd_wg=uaDu3&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img For cable ends I use Uxcell 7 mm strain relief plugs, glue them in place with ABS plumbers glue and trim the tips with a razor, $7.50: https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-27mmx7mmx4mm-Strain-Relief-Protector/dp/B00XBG5U82/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=uxcell+strain+relief+plugs&qid=1628258689&sr=8-4 [For multistrand cable: https://fiberfin.com/product/1-x-2-2mm-industrial-pof-cable-19-multi-core-ul-vw-1-rated-500-meter-spool/ A bit over $ 2/m + shipping. I have not used this cable, but it may be worth a try.]
  8. One thing that might help is to build a small scale model of the gizmo, before purchasing full scale poles and/or pipes. Maybe a 1/2 pipe model, using fabric or plastic sheet or mosquito netting, and trying it out in the pool.
  9. Hi, Tim: I have no experience or knowledge of such a project, but here is what I can imagine: Your goal is two surfaces, one horizontal, one vertical, they need not be joined, just close together to appear as one. For the horizontal surface, I would consider a rigid sheet, say sheet metal painted black, which might consist of several overlapping smaller sheets to make it easier to handle. It would sink and stay, and will be thick enough not to ripple when somebody steps, sits, or lays on it. For the horizontal surface one needs something that allows water to flow through it, so it does not sway or ripple when the water moves back and forth. 1. Maybe take advantage of the slots of venetian blinds to allow water flow. Use discarded venetian blinds painted black, mounted on a 2 m square of thick pipe, the pipe might be slotted longitudinally along its inner length to hold the edges of the blinds. The blinds can be left slightly open so the water can flow back and forth. Maybe store selling window blinds and curtains might have used blinds. 2. Make a 2 m square of pipe holding a square of 1 or 2 cm wire mesh, the mesh then can support a thick plastic sheet, or one or more layers of light weight, open mesh fabric, died black, to keep it from rippling. Or sandwich the plastic or fabric between two layers of light weight wire mesh, everything sprayed black. Intriguing project, I sure hope to hear of its progress, and also enjoy the photos you take with it. Best of luck!
  10. i-fiberoptics appears to be a good source for fiber optic cable. One can then plug the cable into the housing and strobe with 7 mm diam. plug ends from Amazon, which can be glued on with ABS plumbers cement and trimmed with a razor: The plugs are available here: uxcell 20pcs 27mmx7mmx4mm Micro Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector With them one has budget priced fiberoptic cables.
  11. Light & Motion Sola 1200 Photo Underwater Focus & Video Light, used, with ball mount and charger, $ 199 This Light & Motion Sola 1200 Photo Underwater Focus & Video Light works perfectly, holds its charge and is a great hand held dive light. The spot or wide angle beam can be set to low, medium or high intensity light. It works as a photo spotting and as a focus light. It can be attached to the camera's housing with a standard clamp. The Sola charger uses 120 and 220V current. Immediate shipping. Paypal $199 + $10 US post, other countries $22. pp, please.
  12. Above, in this string, I had mentioned single strobe shooting by Peri Paleracio and Roger Steene. Now Adam Hanlon gives us an elegant lecture on the use of a single strobe:
  13. According to Keri Wilk (http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-special-features/article/pro-choice-keri-wilk-ikelite-ds160/) the Ikelite DS160 emits light of 4800K, while most other strobes emit at 5000K. This difference, as pbalves notes above, is best avoided by not mixing Ikelites with other strobes, excellent point. If one already has two different strobes, before settling down to using them, one should first try them to see if the resulting photos are good, then base one's strobe choice on the results.
  14. From time to time I have 'mixed' my strobes, and used two strobes of separate makes or models, with no problem. I have also read recently, here in Wetpixel, that some uw photographers prefer to use one strong, and one less bright, strobe. To take it further, some top uw photographers, such as Peri Paleracio of Anilao, and Roger Steene of Cairns, favor using only one strobe, with outstanding results, for their macro work. A few years ago I saw how Peri would place the one strobe above the lens, aim it at the subject, then move it as needed. Bad luck prevented my diving with and observing Roger's technique, but his work speaks for itself. In brief, other than price or convenience, or safety if one strobe fails, I know of no imperative for one to use very similar or twin strobes for macro work. Now for wide angle, big subjects, one may want two (or more) strong strobes. Let us hear from the reef, lovely siren, big fish and Retra mega-lumen, shooters.
  15. Hi, my recent experience with Light&Motion is somewhat similar, they replied, but were unable to handle a really simple Sola problem. About your connector, maybe Reef Photo & Video <support.team@reefphoto.com> attn Mr Kevn Palmer or Backscatter.com might know how to get one. It should also be possible to 3D print the plug and improvise the electric connectors. Digi-Key sells an large number of different connectors, (https://www.digikey.com/) they might be of help.
  16. AYahoo has replaced the xenon flash and battery of an Olympus flash/Olympus OM-D E-M1 camera with two ultra bright LEDs powered by the camera's battery, mounted in a new, printed housing, while retaining strobe's TTL function. However, as AYahoo notes, replacing the Xenon flash tube with LEDs had been done previously (1), while retaining the strobe's battery. What is novel is that Ayahoo powered the LED's with the Olympus camera's battery. However, his rationale and description for this are less than clear, lacking in details. To me, it does seem that all this work, just to use the camera's battery to trigger two LEDs, is hardly worth it. Also, if one shoots Manual, one can build a simple LED trigger for less than $10 (2, 3). This LED Flash Trigger has a hot shoe plug, a 3 V coin 2032 battery and holder, a 1 Ohm resistor, two deep red 5 mm LEDs, and a 6 V Shottky diode to prevent "ringing". One can make this trigger for under $10, it is a simple version of the Subal LED strobe manual trigger. A retainer can be made of plastic to hold the LEDs in place (4). 3D printed LED Retainer - - - REFERENCES: 1. LED Modified Olympus Flash https://www.instructables.com/LED-Strobe-Trigger-for-Olympus-OM-D-E-M1-Mark-II/ 2. DIY Hot Shoe Plug. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67006-diy-hot-shoe-electric-plug/&tab=comments#comment-423166 3. Super bright, deep red 630 nm, 5 mm LEDs are available from Superbrightleds.com and Ledsupply.com 4. LED Retainer, May 3, 2021 reply. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67663-replacing-subal-trigger-leds/&tab=comments#comment-427719
  17. Lovely, top notch video, many thanks for posting it.
  18. Hello, Chris: Yes, thank you, I had already seen this kit offering, it is complete, also expensive, about $140 once the sales tax and shipping are included. If I have the O-ring inventory to consult, I can buy the necessary O rings from the O Ring Store for a fraction of this. I can measure the old O rings, and will do so, but it is tedious and time consuming, a list will be a big help. O rings are surprisingly long lived, and if they are pliable with no cracks or other defects, many 0-rings and all the steel parts need not be replaced, so why pay for them? Admittedly, taking everything apart is a good idea to clean sand, dirt and gunk, at times rust, trapped in around the shafts and inside the springs. Some years ago, I rebuilt a one year old Aquatica housing: the metal shafts were rusty, and all O rings needed replacement, so a complete take apart was justified. In this case the housing is quite old, with a long and honorable history of year around service in equatorial Sulawesi, and a complete disassembly is merited. As I am an amateur at this, having the manuals, part diagrams and lists and O-ring lists available may be quite useful.
  19. A friend has a Sea & Sea MDX-D300 Underwater Housing (for the Nikon D300), which leaks. The plan is to restore it to its full working condition. For this I need the .pdf manual on Sea&Sea housing repair and list of O ring sizes. I have Googled for it, so far with no luck. If anybody has the .pdf version of this manual and or the MDX-D300 housing parts diagrams, and particularly the list of O-rings, please let me know. Thank you.
  20. Really clever and useful! I wish I had kept my D7000 housing to convert to a D7500, what a great project that would have been.
  21. Strobe delivered by USPS to buyer July 12, 2021. Sale complete, thank you!
  22. Hi Giuseppe: The two Inon S2000 strobes arrived, in perfect shape. Thank you very much. If there is anything I can send you from the US, please let me know. Cordially, Elias Amador
  23. What port mounting ring, if any, does it have?
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