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Kraken de Mabini

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Everything posted by Kraken de Mabini

  1. If all the cuts were 10 times or more longer, I would be even more delighted. Wonderful video.
  2. In line with the above, it is safe and good practice to always remove all batteries when equipment is to be stored, or not used for more than a few days. Some batteries are more trustworthy than others, for example, I have never had an AA Eneloop or other rechargeable batteries leak, also coin batteries (ie, 2032) are reliable, But other batteries such as AA and AAA Duracells leak frequently, I just now threw away four leaky ones. Better safe than sorry, I remove all batteries when the equipment is not in use, and store them separately.
  3. You want to get rid of all the salty water so it does not have a change to do damage or dry out and leave a salty residue. First rinse out two or three time with fresh, or better, distilled water. Then to remove the water, use alcohol, such as denatured 80% alcohol. Pour some in, slosh it around, then allow it to stand for some minutes so it gets into the crevices, then pour all the alcohol out and put the WP-DC54 in a position to self drain. Pump all the involved buttons and levers. If there is some residual water, repeat the alcohol, but allow it to stand longer, then drain it. If no residual water is visible, gently blow dry with compressed air to chase out any residual moisture. Hope this helps.
  4. The Z240 switch's screw thread is 1 x 7 mm and the hole is 16 mm deep. A round head Philips screw of about 7 mm length should do the job of replacing the switch button. My Z240's switch turned much too easily. To unscrew it required pliers. After I screwed it back on, it is hard to turn and now jams either open or shut, so the problem of its turning easily between locked/unlocked is solved, I hope.
  5. Very nice photo album, excellent variety of subjects and places. The small labels in some of the fotos are useful, more labels will be welcome for the places and for the underwater fotos. Please keep up the good work and share it with the rest of us !
  6. Just sold my Inon D2000 strobe to mmesgleski, Michael Mesgleski of Cutler Bay, Florida, who paid promptly and is most cordial. It is pleasure to do business with Michael.
  7. Inon D2000 Strobe is SOLD ! Thank you for watching.
  8. FS Inon Z240 Strobe Type 4 in excellent condition, lightly used, never flooded, battery contacts are shiny like new. Includes two flash diffusers (0.5 and 1.0 neutral density) and two spotting light caps (clear and red), multi-fiber optic cable and ball mount. (Serial # D405028) $399 + $12 US same day shipping. My eBay rating is 100% buyer satisfaction. Paypal.
  9. The eyes of fish can be great photo subjects, as you show us. Maybe if one carries an Olympus TG4 , 5, or 6 in the dive boat, one can return on the next dive to photo the fish, just a thought..
  10. Super news for the rest of us that you were able to dive Anilao this May. Would you please tell us how you entered the Philippines and which Anilao resort you stayed in? And thank you for posting the great photos.
  11. You can make your own plug, here is how: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67006-diy-hot-shoe-electric-plug/&tab=comments#comment-423166 Good luck!
  12. I have taken apart my Issota D500 housing and put it together again. Both it and Subal housings are easy to disassemble, as most of the button can be unscrewed with small screwdrivers and one's fingers. (I sold my Nauticam because it is much too difficult to self sevice it). The O rings can be purchased from the O Ring Store, but rarely need to be replaced. The springs of the control buttons are quite stiff and I replaced most of mine with Uxcell springs, it was easy to do. The Vivid Vacuum Leak Detector fits the Issota with a 16 x 1 mm adapter. All told, the Isotta housing is well designed, easy and comfortable to use and much less expensive than the Subal or Nauticam. It is a quality housing, I would buy one again.
  13. Hi, Dann-Oh I am selling my backup Inon strobe, it is practically new, works fine. Here is my Wetpixel ad: INON D2000 Strobe in excellent condition. Works and flashes perfectly, shiny battery contacts, never flooded. Includes fiber-optic cable and diffuser. (New it sells for $439.00 plus tax.) $ 249- OBO + $14 shipping in US. Rated 100% eBay buyer satisfaction. Paypal, please contact me by PM. Quote
  14. INON D2000 Strobe in excellent condition. Works and flashes perfectly, shiny battery contacts, never flooded. Includes fiber-optic cable and diffuser. (New it sells for $439.00 plus tax.) $ 249- OBO + $14 shipping in US. Rated 100% eBay buyer satisfaction. Paypal, please contact me by PM.
  15. Important when replacing LEDs: LEDs have a strict polarity, the positive lead must be connected to the positive source and vice versa. The long LED lead is +, and the short one is --. The round base of a 5 mm LED is flat at the negative lead. The polarity of the leads can be confirmed by touching the LED leads to the correct side of a 3 V coin battery. LEDs only emit light when the polarity is correct.
  16. Inon Z240 Strobe in excellent condition, minor signs of use. Works and flashes perfectly, shiny battery contacts, never flooded. Includes ball mount, fiber-optic cable and diffuser. (New it sells for $539.00 plus tax.) $ 349 + $14 shipping in US. Rated 100% eBay buyer satisfaction. Paypal, please contact me by PM.
  17. Duct Tape is a good idea, easy and cheap. Velcro (or similar hook & loop tape) glues onto the inside of the housing, and its complementary tape secures the cable in place, easy to remove when needed. The reason for holding the cable and shoe is so it does not swing as its pendulum energy can break off the cable from the LED's, and/or damage the hot shoe plug (with battery) and also damage the inside of the housing.
  18. The ultra-bright red LED's should be 5 mm diam, and emit 660 nm light. They are available for a small price at LEDSupply.com. I just sent TimG a PM as I have some. The over all design, including the junction of the wires to the LEDs in the Subal LED triggers, is sloppy beyond words, plus the LEDs are glued (!) onto the bulkheads. The wires in my Subal D500 LED trigger also broke off. To prevent this, I 3D printed from ABS plastic a holder for the LED's. It screws inside the housing dome and holds the LED's securely against the transparent bulkheads. A piece of hook & loop (Velcro) tape in the middle top of the dome may secure the Subal hot shoe plug cable, so it does not swing loosely and tear loose.
  19. Variation between manufacturers is a valid consideration. As Toslink cables are designed to carry music, music translated by electronics into a highly complex optical family of messages that vary greatly in intensity and rapidly with time, the Toslink cables have to be manufactured to some pretty demanding specifications. Otherwise they will not sell and the music lovers will cry out. In contrast, the light pulse to fire a strobe is intense and brief, about 2 milliseconds, so it is a truly simple message, just a bright flash that fires the strobe. I am reasonably confident that the quality of Toslink fiber optic cables will remain of high quality, thanks in part to buyer pressure, independent of manufacturer, and will remain available to flash our strobes for the foreseeable future.
  20. Underwater strobes at times are not triggered by their fiber optic cable. Several types of cables are available, and to determine which one carries the most light, I tested 4 different cables. Materials: The cables were one Toslink cable 4 mm o.d.,1 meter long (Fig 1 &2, upper left); two commercial 1.4 mm coiled multicore cables: one was labelled 1000 cores (bottom left), and one was labelled Multicore (upper right); the fourth cable (lower right) was a commercial 1.4mm coiled, single fiber cable. I used a piece of black foam rubber to hold the tips of four cables on a black background. The free cable ends were held together in front of a single bright light. I used a Nikon D500, 1/250 sec, variable f stop, for the photos. Results: It was a bit tricky to get the photos to show differences in cable brightness, as the points of light tended to appear the same, unless I played around with the f stop. The 3mm Toslink cable was the brightest, followed by the multi-strand cable, then the 1000 core cable, while the commercial single strand, coiled, 1.4 mm fiber cable was rather dim. Close up photo (as the notches are all on the same side of the lights, I suspect they are caused by some external artifact).. About 1 meter distance. Comment: These findings agree with previous Wetpixel posts that multifiber cables or 3 mm thicker Toslink cables transmit more light than single fiber coiled 1.4 mm commercial cables. The present findings are qualitative, and quantitative photometry would be better. However, the present photos show the Toslink cable transmitted the most light, followed by the multi strand cables. Conclusion: Better light transmission, toughness and low price indicate that Toslink cables, followed by multi strand cables, are a good choice to trigger UW strobes. Note: Toslink cables are available from Amazon, eBay and others as digital optical audio cable. References: 1. Erratic firing of the Backscatter Mini Flash, several excellent comments: use larger diameter f.o. cable. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66482-firing-backscatter-mini-flash/ 2. Dave Hicks comment. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66482-firing-backscatter-mini-flash/&tab=comments#comment-426656 3. Bvanant (Bill VanAntwerp) on homemade 613 fiber optic cables. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/66482-firing-backscatter-mini-flash/&tab=comments#comment-426543 4. FO Cable Problem with strobe and Nikon z7 II. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/67509-problem-with-strobe-and-nikon-z7-ii/&tab=comments#comment-426782 5. Excellent write up on DIY fiber optic cables, with useful comments by many Wetpixel contributors. https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/&tab=comments#comment-387130 6. Stuartv on fiber optic multi strand cables: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/60564-diy-fiber-optic-writeup-with-parts/page/3/&tab=comments#comment-424488 =
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