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Incident

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Incident last won the day on April 11 2016

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About Incident

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. Just a quick note to say that Steve is a very trustworthy and honest seller. Items exactly as described, packaged well and shipped fast. Thank you Steve!
  2. Any chance you would sell just the two SubSee's? I already own that exact flip holder.
  3. I own a pair of D1's and have been more than happy with them. On a recent 10 day dive trip, I saw two D2's malfunction several times (would not fire at all, would intermittently fire), and generally performed rather poorly in the sense that they were not reliable. Take this for what it is worth, but I did see this with my own eyes.
  4. I have the Glowdive diffusers. Love them. Very soft, very even light. Hot spots are almost gone entirely. They are well made. Certainly not an inexpensive solution, but nothing is with UW photography.
  5. Do you have all of the parts as sold by Howshot? You state "homemade" fiber snoots....can you explain? Thank you!
  6. Can you post an example? When you say the picture is too dark, what part of the picture? Remember with flash photography, the lens aperture/flash work together to impact the subject which is lit by the strobes. Shutter speed impacts ambient light. So...if you could post a picture it would be easier for us to help point you in the right direction, based on which part is too dark. You could also leave your settings as they are and increase ISO, but again, seeing an example would make answering your question much easier.
  7. Diggy, Thanks for the info you have provided. I will be diving the Andamans in Feb/Mar, 2016 via live aboard. Your pictures are beautiful. The diving looks amazing, and I cannot wait for the opportunity to photograph these sites.
  8. Marjo, The o-ring on the Zen port is blue (light), but it is not the same blue (dark) as the o-rings from Sea & Sea. Before you put Sea & Sea silicone on it I would check to make sure it is compatible. If someone replaced the Zen o-ring with a Sea & sea o-ring...then I suppose you would have no problem. Just wanted to point out that Zen and Sea & Sea o-rings appear to be different.
  9. Great write up. I am going in the opposite direction right now. I have a Sony RX100m2, and on a recent trip to Indo I really felt some of the limitations (flash recycle times, macro capabilities, among others). The small size and weight considerations versus a FF DSLR were my main drivers for going with compact, but at this point I think I am willing to live with the larger form factor in order to get the most out of it.
  10. Interceptor, This is not really an issue of response times of any given strobe. Most all cameras will trigger the flash to fire ONLY once the first shutter curtain is fully open. The speed at which the electronics cause the strobe to fire, plus the speed of the light travelling to the subject than back to the camera sensor (or film, if you remember that stuff), is so fast, that the entire frame will be illuminated before the second curtain begins it's trip across the sensor plane. If the flash were to fire before the first shutter curtain was full open (meaning out of the way of the sensor), you would get a similar black band but on the other side of the frame. Bottom line is that the ONLY way to get a shot made with a strobe that has even illumination across the entire frame is for the entire sensor to be open when the flash fires, or put another way, make sure you shoot at or below the max sync speed. By the way, rear curtain sync simply the camera telling the flash to fire right before the second shutter curtain begins it's trip across the sensor, not at teh completion of the first one finishing it's trip.
  11. So this is in fact an issue of shooting at a shutter speed that is beyond the max sync speed. The principle is actually sort of simple to explain but easy to understand. When your camera shutter opens, it is only ever open fully (meaning the entire surface area of the sensor is exposed to light at the same time, at or below the sync speed, which I think someone said was 1/180th on your camara model). At any speed faster than 1/180th, the first shutter curtain opens, then the second one begins it's trip over the sensor before the first completes it's trip across. Since the shutter is never fully exposed to light (strobes in this case) you will see a dark band. The reason this is not an issue with ambient light, is that their will be sufficient light to expose the frame regardless of the entire sensor being open or not. At 1/1000th or 1/5000th, the shutter actually passes over the sensor in a fashion like a small sliver; meaning the first shutter curtain starts to open, and the second one starts to close right away. Your flash is firing correctly. As to the reason why this seems to be an intermittent issue, that is simple too. The flash sync speed is 1/180th of a second, but your shutter speed is not always 100% consistent. It may expose at 1/180th on one exposure, but 1/200th on the next, 1/175th on the next, etc. While it's close enough to provide an exposure that well within the correct range that you would be hard pressed to see either over or under exposure in ambient light, you can clearly see some difference in the relative size of the black band when exposing with strobes. The other thing you will notice is that on some landscape images it may look worse than on a portrait image, that is because the effects of gravity can also have a very small impact on the speed at which the shutter travels. So, if your sync speed is in fact 1/180th, set the camera to manual, and place the shutter speed at 1/125th, which will be the closest and fastest shutter speed at which you will not get these black bands. You can try it at 1/180th, but if the shutter is at all faster than 1/180th, you will run the risk of a small amount of black banding. Hope this helps!!
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