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rwe

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rwe last won the day on November 15 2021

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About rwe

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    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 02/07/1946

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/8459071@N08/albums, https://www.alamy.com/search/imageresults.aspx?pl=1&plno=295235
  • Yahoo
    rwe0207

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Palm Coast, FL

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony a6400, Sony NEX-5N, Olympus 8080
  • Camera Housing
    Fantasea, 10Bar, Olympus PT-023
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240, SeaFrogs, nikonos 105
  • Accessories
    heinrich converter for 105

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  1. Below are a couple much more terrible pics of similar fish in Cozumel. From the pictures in this app https://biogeodb.stri.si.edu/caribbean/en/thefishes/species/4001 it looks like the yellowface pikeblenny can be pretty variable in color.
  2. I am not an Ikelite user but have a question related to part of Chris's response above (note I agree with much of his response). Small, negatively buoyant housings get a lot of positive press for this characteristic. Can someone explain why this is? The strobes, bracket, and arms are all negative so it seems unlikely that a system with strobes will be positive. Even with my present polycarbonate system, my 'float arms' to achieve a near neutral buoyancy are much more un-ergonomic (in and out of the water) than a slightly larger housing. If a system does end up with a positive buoyancy, it seems to me that adding a few lead weights would be much easier and ergonomic than adding a bunch of floats.
  3. In a fit of boredom, I took my SeaFrogs SF-L02 light off the shelf where it had been sitting for over a month to see if I could figure out if there was something that I could do which would make it turn on more reliability. And to my amazement, I got it to turn on 10 times in a row! I turned it off each time by unscrewing until it lost battery contact and the green flashing light went out. I now think there are two key things to make it turn on: Make sure the batteries are aligned with the correct contacts on the light head using the alignment notch when starting to screw the light together after inserting the batteries. This can be easy to miss since the piece with the notch is free to turn and it will screw closed even if not aligned. Most important: Make the 5 unlocking pushes very quickly. 3 seconds is not long. When I did the 5 button pushes in about 2 seconds or a little more (it is hard to time this), the green flashing light came on and a subsequent long push would then make the light come on and it would go through it colors by additional short pushes and brightness could be adjusted by turning the dial. If I took close to or more than 3 seconds for the 5 pushes, the light would not come on. I will let it rest for a few days and try again to be sure this was not just a quirk. Rick
  4. I have this light also. Got if off Amazon for about half price and then saw the price increase the next day. Sometimes it comes on with the 5x pushes; sometimes not. Sometimes it comes on with second 5x try; sometimes not. Occasionally comes on 2nd or 3rd push on second or third try. Sometimes won't come on at all, like last week in Pompano Beach but then it came on when I got home. Appears to be hit or miss; very frequently miss. If you ever get it on, it is bright and not spot which is what I bought it for. Unfortunately, haven't used it in water since it didn't come on in Pompano last week but I did take it to 95' and it didn't leak. Note that I am using Eastshine batteries which may be a little longer than some other batteries but you can't buy them anymore. When I first got it and couldn't get it to turn on, I attempted to stretch the spring a little to make sure batteries were making contact. Two connected springs came out with little force and I then had to epoxy back in place after I stretched spring. Other item to be sure of is to make sure notch is lined up and in place before rotating to close since it will close without notch being lined up and then battery contacts aren't lined up. If you get it to turn on (green light flashing), you have to push and hold for a few seconds to turn on the main light. Then you have to push and hold a few seconds each time you want to turn on or off. It took me a while to figure out to keep holding for a few seconds until the main light came on. Note that after it comes on, the light stays in standby with the green light flashing and the red numbered light lit until you unscrew the battery case (this is my experience anyway although I have not let it sit to see if it shuts down after some time). Unless you want to use the colored lights (I don't) then I recommend not turning off or clicking through the colors which is quite annoying. If the white bright light is on, you can rotate the number to 0 and it will go off. Then you can increase brightness by just rotating the numbers from 1 through 9 and not have to go through the 'hold' to turn on/off. Good luck and let me know if you discover the secret to make it work routinely since it appears to be a nice light when it is on, Rick
  5. I do frequently go up to ISO 400 when using the UWL-09F and have no issues with this. It is when I get to 800 or above that I have concerns with stills although video seem less affected. While I admit to finding the issue of lens zoom range info quite confusing, the UWL-09F literature says it yields a 130 degree FOV at 28 mm. Assuming all camera lens mm's are stated as full frame equivalents, then I should still be able get that FOV with the 28-60 mm lens. While not as wide as the 16-50, I thought maybe not unreasonable since I usually have to zoom to about 18-20 anyway to not see the lens hood and its starts to get a little more fisheye than I like at the lowest zoom. So on my wreck dives in Pompano in a few weeks I will start at ISO 400 and try going to slower shutter speeds of 1/80 or maybe less and see what it looks like on the screen when viewing ambient conditions to evaluate background. Thanks for your inputs, Rick
  6. I am presently using the Sony 16-50. But when using the UWL-09F, I find that I either have to go to lower aperture or higher ISO than I would like so was just thinking about other possible options. I will be in Pompano in a few weeks so I think I will also try decreasing shutter speed; I usually use 1/100 or 1/125 second. My first day in Pompano will probably be my two deepest dives (Capt. Dan and RSB-1) so I will probably try 1/80 second but I believe that this is a relatively small change compared to ISO and aperture changes.
  7. This is probably a really dumb question but will the Sony 28-60 lens work with a Sony 6400 APS-C camera and the Fantasea UWL-09F?
  8. Not a lot of pixels to work with here but here is my effort on one of your pictures. Note I use Photoshop Elements which is somewhat different from what most people of this site use. Anyway, this is what I did: I used Adjust Hue and Saturation and moved the red and magneta saturation and lightness sliders to -100. Note this only effected a few of the fish in the shadows and not the background. I also made the cyan more blue and lightened it somewhat which changed the color of the cyan on the fish a little. The only thing that would effect the background purple color in the Adjust Hue and Saturation was blue which seemed strange but nothing else had any effect. So I slid the blue hue a little towards green and it made the purple background somewhat more blue. I then slid the blue lightness somewhat negative to make the background darker which appeared to make it look less purple. I tried to use the Levels colors sliders but got no useful results. I used the haze removal tool to remove a little haze but much less than what the auto haze removal wanted to do. I did a little spot healing on the more purple backscatter spots in the background and reduced brightness a little and added a little contrast. Anyway, maybe not a lot of improvements but it is below for your info. Rick
  9. I tend to dive often in significant current so almost always shoot with the strobes in TTL. With the Sony a6400 the view screen is always bright when the flash is up and the screen is frequently very non-representative of actual exposure unless the entire scene is lit by the strobes. This also applies to the preview after the shot. However, you can get a real ambient background estimate with the flash up by setting the flash to 'ambient only' and set a custom button for 'flash result preview' (https://shotkit.com/how-to-set-up-your-sony-camera-for-flash/). I have set Custom 1 button for this so can see an estimate of what ambient background will look like by pushing the Custom 1 button. When I release the button, the screen is again bright. It is annoying but generally only need to push the custom 1 button to check for a few shots at the start of each dive or when the background changes from dark or blue to something like white sand. Unfortunately, I usually forget to recheck after the start of dive but that is not a camera problem.
  10. Note I don't actively try to sell photos although I have sold a few. I have donated a number of pictures to various groups. Mostly when they find my photos on Flickr and ask if they can use. I usually just ask that I be credited and let it go at that. If it is to be used on a website, I usually ask for a link to it. My largest number of donations (~ 150) has been to the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute for use in their fish ID program Shorefishes - Homepage . They provide the contributor two options with respect to copyright. Below is a screenshot of one of my photos from that site and showing the copyright info that viewers are shown that might be helpful if you are drafting something. Note if you copy this picture it is only 81KB so not high resolution while you can download my Flicker pictures without asking at high resolution even though it says they are copyrighted. With all that said, I have found a few of my pictures on websites who did not ask. But if you use Flickr and put your pictures there at high resolutions, there is really no way to prevent that so if I were actively trying to sell pictures, I probably wouldn't put many pictures on any of the picture sharing websites. Rick
  11. So when the silicone o-rings swell does it degrade the material? I ask because I would like the o-rings on my strobe arms to be a little thicker but haven't found any with the needed ID that have a slightly greater OD.
  12. You can find silica gel packets in different sizes on Amazon and from many other internet vendors.
  13. Just a guess but based only on shape I suspect a welk egg case. Below are a few pictures with a similar shape taken in Florida although they were much larger than yours so maybe from a much smaller species of welk.
  14. I ordered the 7 gram tube of Tribolube from Aerospace. When I entered my zipcode to get shipping costs it said zero but noted that this was an estimate and actual shipping may be different. A few days later I received an email receipt from Aerospace also showing zero shipping but also noting that this was an estimate and actual shipping may be different. About two weeks later I received a package delivery notification from UPS and I received an additional document from Aerospace showing my tribolube cost of $14.55 but then showing a subtotal cost of $37.51 but still showing zero tax and zero shipping with no explanation of what the additional $22.96 was for. So I sent an email to Aerospace asking what the additional $22.96 was for. With no explanation or comments, they then sent me a revised receipt showing a shipping charge of $22.96. Seems pretty deceptive to me so I thought that I would let people know.
  15. I usually stay at Suites Bahia or Casa Mexicanos neither of which meets your criterion. I have dove with Tres Pelicanos my last 5 trips; again no help if you are looking for a resort which includes the diving. For meeting people, you might want to visit the Thirsty Cougar.
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