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ChrisD82

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ChrisD82 last won the day on June 7 2016

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About ChrisD82

  • Rank
    Starfish
  • Birthday 03/30/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5DmIII, Canon 1DsmIII, Canon 60D
  • Camera Housing
    Ewa-Marine PXB100
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Introva 4000
  1. With the lower light situation moving currents its difficult to get 3 good photos to merge. You can expect a lot of ghosting & noise. Some DSLR's have a built in HDR function you can play with but expect artefacts and distorted objects where objects have moved. Easier to shoot as RAW then play with sliders in lightroom. Bring down highlights and bring up shadows and add some dehaze, clarity and vibrance is usually a starting point to emulate HDR processing styles on a single image.
  2. Have the same setup with 16-35mm f4 lens. Its also soft in the corners especially at f4. I'm doing some experiments over the next few dives with the B+W +2 diopter and greenwater magic filter but I have the feeling the loss of field of view and other compromises in using diopters will not work in some wide shots I need. The other solution I found which looks very promising is the Sea&Sea internal correction filter ($400US) but more like $600 where I am after postage/conversion rates vs the $80 I paid for the diopter. http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/digital_slr/accessory/lenses/
  3. I was playing with my cheaper T6 that looks like this link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Waterproof-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-80m-Diving-Flashlight-Torch-Submarine-Light-2000LM-/171733183134?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item27fc186a9e On these style torches the outer glass is held against the O-ring and head via a threaded cap. Its easily removable giving your access to the reflector area and to place a dichloric filter inside provided you get one 2mm or so smaller then the outer glass. In terms of trying to get to the LED I found it almost impossible to take apart the head enough to gain access. For that one I can't pull apart without destroying the head but if I could recycle that waterproof metal body and install a new bulb module/driver unit could be an option. I did find some unused 15+ year old Ikelite Super 8 and 2x Ikelite RDC dive lights in the garage from when I first started diving. I ordered a 10w royal blue 455nm module/driver set I'm going to try and fit into one those housings. The 26650 batteries fit easily where the D size usually go so can fit 4 of them inside easily. On these ones the acrylic front glass is permanently glued so have to work everything in from the inside. Looks like will need to drill and dremel to open up the area where the incandescent bulb used to be and do some extra wiring but probably an easier project then the one I though about earlier. Im still working about how to cool the LED module though so went with the smaller 10w (There's 1-100w royal blue models available). The most expensive bit would be the larger dichloric filter to be attached from the outside once done. Royal Blue 10w module + driver link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10W-Cool-White-20000K-Royal-Blue-455nm-High-Power-LED-Light-Aquarium-Driver-/391135815223?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b1182e637
  4. Been looking at some of the blue led lighting options out there for night fluo diving and in the end just finding it way too expensive what it is so looking at the DIY options. I use those inexpensive $30 ebay 2000lm dive lights from China (not really 2000lm but bright enough) for my regular dives and has over 25 dives so far without flooding so far. I'm now looking at trying the more powerful 8000lm rated ones like the Skyray the under $80 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYRAY-Diving-Scuba-8000LM-5x-CREE-XM-L2-LED-100m-Flashlight-Torch-18650-26650-A-/311326974725?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item487c88a305 How hard would it be to open one of these type of lights to desolder and replace the LED's with the equivalent royal blue 450nm LED's? Not sure if this would be the right one but something similar: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Pieces-3W-High-Power-LED-Emitter-ROYAL-BLUE-445-450nm-/121185868503?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item1c373d9ad7 From that point I think its only a matter of ordering blue excitation filter to replace the front glass on the torch or to stack on top depending on thickness. I've seen them for around $20-30. That would end up being under $140 for a 5x Royal Blue LED light. - I'm planing to build 2-3 of these for photo/video rig. All the other components like yellow barrier filters for mask & camera are affordable so definately buy ready made options. Thoughts?
  5. Hi All Found this forum a month ago and finally got around to registering. I am Chris David, professional photographer from Sydney Australia. Started diving 16 years ago and started photography 14 years ago. First began experimenting in underwater just over 3 years ago and can check some of my shoots in this link https://www.behance.net/gallery/8876855/Underwater-Project using the inexpensive Ewa-Marine bag. Now its time for me to upgrade my underwater kit to a hardcase after being too limited in my dives and hoping the collective resources will help in taking things to the next level or two.
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