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sinetwo

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sinetwo last won the day on December 23 2020

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About sinetwo

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  1. Thanks Jim, that's really helpful to see! Have you done any more since? I'm just about to get the TC as I've got everything else
  2. Hey @TimG, do you have example photos of the D500 with the Posh Tok + 1.4x kenko? I'm playing around with medium sized subjects now (crabs/tompots) in the UK and I'm finding the most amount of success is with me being totally zoomed in at 17mm being SUPER close. But I feel I could get even closer to make it more dramatic. My current issue is that it doesn't quite fill the frame with medium subjects, and I'm wondering if adding the teleconverter on a crop would: 1. Reduce image quality so much that I'm better off just cropping 2. Still make it appealing despite changing the focal length I have a 20mm ext. ring + the mini dome (and mega dome) so I'm happy to experiment, and I guess the Kenko isn't all that expensive! But some example shots of CFWA with a crop camera + 1.4x kenko + tokina 10-17 at 17mm would be fantastic to help me out Much appreciated.
  3. Thanks @troporobo! That's all very useful info. I know a few good spotters in Anilao, so perhaps I can dive at one of those resorts and pay for the spotters I know? Or is that not good practice? As in, would the resorts themselves sort out the spotters? Thanks, SineTwo
  4. Hi Tim, I've actually been to buceo, and I agree it's pretty steep! But the diving was easy enough and reasonable. Any other suggestions from you or your friends?
  5. Hi hivemind! I'm looking for reasonable accommodation in Anilao, with very close proximity to dive sites with great spotters and camera equipment. The budget is around 50usd per person per day for accommodation with diving on top of course. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. The main focus is quality of guides and the dive operation for ourselves please. Thanks! SineTwo
  6. @TimG yessur. I went with Ocean Nomads for non black water diving (any diving!) and Cozumel Blackwater for Blackwater diving (Robert Stansfield) I can give extremely reports if you wish. I'm due to write a cozumel article for BSouP actually!
  7. @adamhanlon I always used to think that at some point, frogfish (and others) naturally yawned for whatever biological reason. Since, I've read that: fish do not yawn, at least not the way we do. They do open their mouths sometimes, but that is typically to attract mates or deter aggressors. And perhaps this is exactly your point about normalisation through images - that I used to think this was just a natural occurrence. So that then makes me wonder, is the photographer / guide purposely harassing the critter to make it yawn? Or perhaps just waiting extremely close to a critter harasses the subject enough to make it yawn, so that the photographer thinks they've "captured a natural moment"? ...or am I that gullible, whereas in reality most photographers know a yawn is totally coaxed and just force the image?
  8. @Algwyn do you have this yourself? If so how has it held up?
  9. Hi @tamas970 - did you manage to decide on a setup?
  10. Thanks @makar0n that's a really useful and detailed post! Good to see it all set up together in theory as well. I think the filter absolutely must be purchased, it would be too much of a hassle to DIY an M67 threaded filter, and I doubt it would be worth the pain even if one could. However I've been using cut out gels now for my strobes and I'm getting some degree of success in general (sometimes they need layering as they don't add enough colour). I've attached a few examples of what I've got so far, but I wouldn't use this setup for fluro as the diffuser would get in the way of creating as much blue light as possible - but it shows that it's pretty easy to use gels/filters in strobes without a huge cost. The most reasonable option I can see is from glowdive in Spain? Their Excitation filters are 48eur per piece, and use velcro. Ok it's not the most elegant solution but it'll do provided it stays put. --> https://www.glowdive.com/fluorescencia/filtros.htm I guess perhaps my question is: is there a way to DIY excitation filters? I'm sure I can come up with a pretty good velcro solution, but I am at a loss as to what exact material should be used, to create the excitation filters. Thank you for your time so far, it's been very useful!
  11. Hi all, Can someone recommend some reasonable DIY Fluro solutions for: 1. an M67 thread filter for the outside of a camera housing and 2. blue gels that can be used on strobes? I've listened to the wetpixel talk and whilst I think I can manage to find an M67 yellow fluro filter, I'm none the wiser as to what the best DIY blue gel filter for the strobes would be. If anyone has suggestions, or even pictures taken with such a setup, that would be fantastic! Thanks!
  12. Hey UK / EU folks, I ordered this off ebay "Fiber Optic Cable 1 / 1.5 / 2.0 Silica Core End Glow black PVC Waterproof tube" (2mm, 5m length) and it transmits light amazingly well! ...but it snaps like a twig, one wrong move underwater and it's bent, the only thing holding it is the black PVC tube. Does anyone have links to cables in EU/UK that are bendable and transmit light extremely well even with a 90 degree(ish) bend?
  13. For me personally, even with theoretically unlimited money (which isn't the case!) I still am struggling to see the use case for mirrorless underwater yet. The advantages are simply not great enough (for underwater!) to sell all your gear cheaply, and then re-buy everything at a premium (cause no one is selling their mirrorless used). Even if money was no object, for Nikon at least, the lenses just aren't there. I believe even their new macro lens has been touted as optically great, but slow at focusing. So say you're on a good DSLR kit, and you sell that for £x, then you re-buy everything brand new for perhaps double, are you *really* getting your moneys worth then? Lenses and everything have to be bought. From a technical standpoint, I see the advantage of using a digital viewfinder, or even the back of the screen, as it makes shooting from the hip a tonne easier. There may even be some weight and size savings! However, I had my RX100ii, and I wouldn't say I exceeded the camera's capability, but I struggled in a fair few situations, particularly around distance from subjects (skittish ones) and focusing in dark environments. Whereas with my DSLR it doesn't have any of those problems. I'm going to be honest, it was A LOT easier using the RX100ii, small, lightweight, easy to snoot with, easy to handle. Mirrorless unfortunately doesn't seem to offer that in buckets, I think I'd be willing to give mirrorless a go if they could make them small and agile like the RX100, but laws of physics etc. I am 100% going to mirrorless when the time is right, but right now, it's far too expensive to switch from DSLR and does not provide enough advantages. Perhaps someone who wants their first bit of prosumer kit would be the target audience. I have however been seeing a lot more DSLR kits up for sale, so I think it's fair to say people still have an absolute tonne of money to spend on new toys
  14. @mochikat I use the above techniques and it works, even with a big DSLR rig and a massive retra snoot. Theoretically, the backscatter should be easier to use so I hope with the above you should be OK! The easiest way to snoot is really to set it at the beginning of the dive as @adamhanlon suggested. I'd strongly suggest doing this on a dive without a lot of direct sunlight, as it's just pot luck at that point. The darker, the easier it is. The only issue you MAY come into here is if you're shooting smaller subjects in crevices and the snoot just doesn't light up the subject as it may be blocked or partially blocked. My trick then is to tilt the camera (rather than the snoot) to get a better snoot angle, and then rotate in post. Remember, any small movement is "big" so try to make tiny micro adjustments and test a lot as you go along, rather than making huge adjustments and getting more black images. Also, final tip, start on the widest beam and then gradually narrow it down until you have your desired. It's better to "overshoot" and correct I find, otherwise you end up trying to find a tiny tiny beam and it just becomes a series of black images and extreme frustration.
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