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JohnnyQuest

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JohnnyQuest last won the day on February 1

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About JohnnyQuest

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    Moray Eel

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  1. I think Pacific Housing Repair is great. I've been shooting YS-D1s since 2013. I've had PHR do 3 repairs over the years (Including the one he's currently working on - flash tube). I keep thinking that I'm going to upgrade to newer strobes, but Devon is still able to fix them for a pretty reasonable price (Far less than I could buy a used one for). He pressure tests the strobes before returning them, and he's an authorized S&S repair shop so he checks them against factory specs before returning them. He's quite knowledgeable. He usually asks a few question and asks me to maybe do a simple test, and he's been very good at immediately knowing what the problem is and if he thinks it will be economically feasible to fix it. But expect it to take 2-3 months. I have and travel with 3 strobes so if one needs repair, I still have 2. https://www.pacifichousingrepair.com/ P.S. If you decide to upgrade, I might be interested in buying yours.
  2. I guess it depends on how critical you are and what you will do with your photos. I shot these with my Canon 5Dmk4 and the 8-15 with a 140mm dome. F-stops were 9, 6.3, 10, 7.1 (in that order). The corners are sharp enough for me. The visibility was about 40' for the Palau Jake Plane and only about 25' for the Galapagos hammerhead, so the shots aren't great, but ok based on the conditions. I used a Tenko 1.4 TC for the Galapagos shot.
  3. I'm selling two of these (one black and one white). Both work perfectly. Black one has 210 dives; blue one has 193 dives. $125 each includes economy shipping to the contiguous US.
  4. Thanks. Always wish I could have done better. There's always a next time!
  5. When I was there, the dive masters really limited the time we could be in the water. The crocs were getting too close and too "friendly." They started yelling at me to get out. One approached me but at a really bad (photographically) angle. I was looking right into the sun and couldn't even see the rear screen on my camera through the glare. So I put the settings on what I though I needed, and started shooting. I used a Tokina 10-17 (at 10mm) with a mini dome. These are my best shots (not great). I asked the captain if we could go back a couple of days later, but he said that the itinerary was set by the government. For the closest shot (ironically, when I was shooting blind from the hip), my dome was probably a foot from the croc's nose. Yeah, they get close. The viz was only about 10 - 15' as I recall so a longer lens won't help. I don't think I was in the water with them for more than 10 minutes. It's done on snorkel.
  6. http://www.pacifichousingrepair.com/ They are the only authorized S&S repair center in the US. I had very good luck with them.
  7. I've had two YSD1s for about 5 years. They were very reliable until a flash tube blew in one of them on my last trip. (I estimate the I had > 20,000 fires on it so I can't complain) It failed exactly as you described. It seemed to lose power at first. Then it would sometimes fire and sometimes not. And even when it was completely dead, it would still return the "All ok green light". When I looked at the face, I could see that the tube was visibly cracked. I sent it to Pacific Housing Repair. Upon inspection, they discovered that the circuitry was fried too and said it wasn't worth fixing. However, they sold me a reconditioned one for a very reasonable cost. I'd give them a try. They are the official S&S service center in the US. Bluewater Photo recommended that I send my failed unit to them. BTW, a trick I learned from PHR is that a Sony remote (from a TV, CD player, Receiver, etc) will trigger the S&S strobes. If you just open the optical port and shoot the Sony remote into it, it will trigger if it's working. It's an easy test. http://www.pacifichousingrepair.com/
  8. Yeah, same for Canon. At least for my 5D mk4. I didn't see any difference.
  9. Bump. This is still for sale if anyone is interested. $100 and free shipping to anywhere in the contiguous US.
  10. My old system was a Canon 7D, and I used the 60mm macro. My new system is a 5Dmk4 with the 100mm for macro. I find no difference in ability to find or focus on my subject (easy on both). I use(d) a 180 degree view finder on both. However, I find that Al Servo works best with the 5D when shooting macro. I never use a focus light and have never though I needed one.
  11. I shot these with the Canon 8-15 and Kenko 1.4 TC behind a 140mm Nauticam mini dome. Frankly, it's really hard to tell the difference in quality between that set up and just the 8-15 alone (I know that's hard to believe). I shot all these in the Marquesas where the viz was between 10' and 25' so these are quite a bit softer than they would be in good viz. I used two S&S YS-D1 strobes and a 5Dmv body.
  12. I have this: https://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-canon/ttl-converter-for-canon-for-nauticam-housings-detail Designed by Pavel who is very active here (and is a great source of information). It works great with my 5D mk4 and my S&S YS-D1 strobes. I believe that Turtle also has a unit available now too, but you don't get Pavel's invaluable help with the Turtle.
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