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JohnnyQuest

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JohnnyQuest last won the day on April 23 2018

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About JohnnyQuest

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  1. http://www.pacifichousingrepair.com/ They are the only authorized S&S repair center in the US. I had very good luck with them.
  2. I've had two YSD1s for about 5 years. They were very reliable until a flash tube blew in one of them on my last trip. (I estimate the I had > 20,000 fires on it so I can't complain) It failed exactly as you described. It seemed to lose power at first. Then it would sometimes fire and sometimes not. And even when it was completely dead, it would still return the "All ok green light". When I looked at the face, I could see that the tube was visibly cracked. I sent it to Pacific Housing Repair. Upon inspection, they discovered that the circuitry was fried too and said it wasn't worth fixing. However, they sold me a reconditioned one for a very reasonable cost. I'd give them a try. They are the official S&S service center in the US. Bluewater Photo recommended that I send my failed unit to them. BTW, a trick I learned from PHR is that a Sony remote (from a TV, CD player, Receiver, etc) will trigger the S&S strobes. If you just open the optical port and shoot the Sony remote into it, it will trigger if it's working. It's an easy test. http://www.pacifichousingrepair.com/
  3. Yeah, same for Canon. At least for my 5D mk4. I didn't see any difference.
  4. Bump. This is still for sale if anyone is interested. $100 and free shipping to anywhere in the contiguous US.
  5. My old system was a Canon 7D, and I used the 60mm macro. My new system is a 5Dmk4 with the 100mm for macro. I find no difference in ability to find or focus on my subject (easy on both). I use(d) a 180 degree view finder on both. However, I find that Al Servo works best with the 5D when shooting macro. I never use a focus light and have never though I needed one.
  6. I shot these with the Canon 8-15 and Kenko 1.4 TC behind a 140mm Nauticam mini dome. Frankly, it's really hard to tell the difference in quality between that set up and just the 8-15 alone (I know that's hard to believe). I shot all these in the Marquesas where the viz was between 10' and 25' so these are quite a bit softer than they would be in good viz. I used two S&S YS-D1 strobes and a 5Dmv body.
  7. I have this: https://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-canon/ttl-converter-for-canon-for-nauticam-housings-detail Designed by Pavel who is very active here (and is a great source of information). It works great with my 5D mk4 and my S&S YS-D1 strobes. I believe that Turtle also has a unit available now too, but you don't get Pavel's invaluable help with the Turtle.
  8. Thank. I PMed you back but I didn't see how to post photos there so I put them here:
  9. Great shape. No scratches on glass. No dings in the body. Includes the end cap, the glass boot, and original box as shown. PM me if interested. I'll make you a good deal.
  10. Brand new, in box, never used, optical flash trigger for Canon for sale. Item 26301. Includes two new batteries. Here's the link to it on the Nauticam site. Check compatibility with your system. https://www.nauticam.com/pages/search-results?q=26301 If you're interested, PM me. I'll make you a very good deal (and send photos if you want).
  11. Nauticam makes an optical trigger that sits on the hotshot and just fires the flash straight ahead. Since it doesn't have little LEDs that connect right to the optical bulkheads, you need to use the prism to redirect that straight ahead light, upward. The prism reflects the light up into the bulkheads. If you use a trigger that has the little LEDS you need to remove the prism and put the LEDs directly into the bulkheads. I have a Nauticam housing, but I'm using the UWTechnics TTL trigger so I removed the prism. If you download the user's manual here, it will tell you about removing the prism http://uwtechnics.com/index.php/online-store/ttl-converters/for-canon/ttl-converter-for-canon-for-nauticam-housings-detail
  12. Because the Canon is more expensive!! I read a couple of reviews between the two that say that the Canon is a bit sharper. That may be imaginary, and even if so, it's probably negligible. Actually, since I plan on using it with the 1.4TC, the zoom function of the Canon should come in handy. That's really the only reason. Plus I found my 8-15 used for about the price of the 15 new.
  13. At any focal length < 14mm, you'll start to see black at the corners. You could shoot there, but you'd have to crop the shot afterwards. This link shows how the image will look at various focal lengths: https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Comparisons/Canon-EF-8-15mm-f-4-L-USM-Fisheye-Lens.aspx I believe that with the 1.4TC, you will have a useful range of about 15 - 21 before you'd see the black corners.
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