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About lawrenced

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  1. So Bart, would I have to assume in your scenario that the 105mm would allow me the same depth of field as the 60mm should I choose to move further away from the subject thus forcing me to seriously crop my image to achieve the same affect as the 60mm (final image magnification for presentation)? Just trying to decide if I need to include the 60mm in my arsenal of lenses.
  2. Humm, Thought I had a answer with CamelToad's response then bvanant got me confused - question might be confusing. I know I'd be physically closer to the subject - so with that in mind will I have a deeper depth of field with the 60mm? I personally prefer the first Nudibranch image above with more of the subject in focus. It appears there would be more latitude with the 60mm to be able to get the entire subject in focus but open up the f stop and you can get the same dof as the 100mm if that is what effect you want. Would this be logical thinking?
  3. I have been shooting macro with my 100mm and find the depth of field quite narrow - so trying to capture a nudibranch for example I can usually only get a small portion in the sharp focus range ( yes I have experimented with different apertures). So my question is given the same scenaro would a 60mm macro lens give me a greater DOF?
  4. I just got my Fix Neo with a red focus light and have experimented (on land). I set the red focus light and used the YS-D1 strobes set at TTL and made the shot. The images still have a red tinge. Is there a method to avoid this red tinge or should I not use the red focus light. I always thought the strobes would wash out the red. BTW I'm using the optical connection on both the strobes with each one connected to the bulkhead housing of the Nauticam 70D. On another topic speaking of YS-D1 - why do they show in the manual to connect one strobe to the bulkhead and the other optical cord to the other YS-D1 strobe rather than connecting both the optical cords to the two optical connections on the bulkhead? Thanks for your input.
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