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talahaski

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About talahaski

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    Clownfish
  1. Excuse my ignorance, but what is freediving as opposed to scuba diving? Nice pictures.
  2. Thanks for the suggestions. I might consider DVDs.
  3. You mean buying normal internal drives and putting them in a usb/firewire drive housing. This is actually what I did for my 2 200gb external drives. They are really internal drives inside a housing. It does work out cheaper, but I have found that these housings do a very poor job of cooling off the drive and therefor these drives are taking extra abuse since they get a lot hotter than normal. Perhaps its just the housing I'm using, I have not found a cheap housing yet that either has a fan, or some other method to help keep the drive cool. I would not mind setting up a raid system, but it would have to be done as an exteral system, and I have not found any cheap solutions for having a raid disk array. The reason it needs to be external is that I do all my work off a laptop. As far as I know you cannot create a raid configuration using 2 external usb/firewire drives, you actually need some device that have a raid controller built in.
  4. Hi everybody, I recently got my Nikon D70 and have been shooting a lot of topside images in raw along with processing them and saving the edited image in jpg format. Just yesterday, I took over 400 pictures. (filled a 4 gb card) I currently have 2 200gb external drives that I am storing my pictures on. They are not setup as raid since they are external, but I am manually copying all the pictures to both drives so that the second drive acts as a backup. I am getting close to filling up these drives. They currently have all my pictures on them from the last couple years, but with my new camera I find that I am taking a lot more pictures, the pictures are larger in size, and I never used to store the raw files, so now I am storing both raw and jpg. These are all really just personnal photos, I'm not a professional so I would not go bankrupted if I lose them, but they are important and I certainly don't want to lose them. So I am wondering what other people are doing for large storage and backup and what people might recommend for me? I don't want to spend too much, but I also want to make sure I have some sort of backup in case the drive fails. I've considered just buying 2 more 200gb drives which I think would be enough for the next year. I could go with 2 400gb drives, but it appears that the price per gb is much higher when buying the larger drives.
  5. awsome vid. Where was this taken and what part of the year?
  6. thanks for clearifying this.
  7. talahaski

    diopter

    I've heard discussed many times on this site the need for some lenses to have a diopter . Measurements have been state of +1 to +4 and I'm sure there are others. I'm not really sure I understand what is being talked about. I thought a diopter was an adjustment that can be made to the view finder and have nothing to do with the actual image, its use was only to adjust the view finder for people with different eyesight. So I am most likely wrong since my understand does not flow with the way the term has been used on this site. From what I am picking up, I now think that a diopter is an adjustment to focal length made by attaching a lens filter. Is this correct?
  8. Oh, working with the raw images, I have found that for most pictures I need to do the following. Step 1, use the white balance dropper on something in the image that is white. Step 2, Increase the exposure. For some reason I need to do this on a lot of my images since the auto exposure setting seems to be too low. Step 3, on a lot of my images I find that increasing the saturation between 10 to 15 helps bring out the true color. I'm not sure if I should be adjusting saturation at this point but they seem to be coming out pretty good.
  9. Yeah, a number of the housings appear to have fairly long delivery times. Here an udate on my progress: I've been playing with the camera taking topside pictures and really do like the camera. I ran into some trouble working with the raw images and have been struggling to figure out how to use Adobe CS2. I'm starting to get the hang of it. I realized that I can load about 200 pictures at once and select a large group of pictures with similar lighting and make the same adjustments to that entire group at once. This really helps cut down the time. I will be running into anouther issue soon, I have been working with the trial version of CS2, and I only have 2 days left. I did not realize how expensive that software is. I'd be willing to spend the upgrade price (150), but the full version price is too high. Problem is that I don't have a previous version so the upgrade version is not going to work. I'm going diving this weekend, but since I don't have a housing yet I won't have any pictures to post. I have not even ordered the housing yet, but I have a pretty good idea what I plan on buying. I just want to get more comforable taking pictures with this camera and working with the images first before I buy the housing. This also gives me a little time to save up a little more cash so I can offord everything I want.
  10. I recently got a Nikon D70, previously I had been using a point/shoot which saved the files as jpg's. I'm completly new to image editing. I currently have a trial version of Adobe CS2 (4 days left, will most likely buy it soon). I'm not used to having to make any manual adjustments, I used to just download the jpeg from my camera and that was it. Anyway, I've been shooting in raw mode and have a LOT of topside pictures (about 400). I want to get used to working with the images while I wait for my housing and before I do my first UW photos. When I open the NEF file in cs2, I get a different screen than the screen that comes up if I open a jpeg file to edit. What do I need to do to prepare these images and convert them to jpg while getting the best picture. I played with the settings for a single image and got it to look pretty nice, but I was hoping there was a easier way to clean up these images instead of adjusting each individual image. How do other people pre-process these images? Do you just batch process all your images using the same settings? What happens if the images were taken in different lighting and with different lens. Perhaps I'm being lazy, but it seems like a lot of work to pre-process 400 images individually. When working with a single image, what adjustments should i make when working on the raw image, and what adjustments should I leave for working with post-image. IS there any easy way to auto-adjust an image instead of playing with the slider bars? Should I jump straight from NEF to jpg, or go some NEF to TIFF, then from TIFF to JPG during the final clean-up. I know there are a lot of questions here, but I really could use some help on this. Please also reply with links to other topics that might help me here. I did a few searches and found a few topics that were helpfull, but they still left me with a lot of questions.
  11. Ok, I've been playing around with the camera and am in the process of uploading my first set of pictures. I thought this would be simple but I ran into another problem. I took the pictures so far using the RAW mode. Well it appears most programs I have do not recognize this, so I am forced to install Nikon's software. What should I use? I'd like to be able to use Adobe CS2 for everything, but I think there is a issue about this where Adobe cannot work with Nikon RAW images. I can also use the PictureProject software that came with the camera, which I assume sucks. Or I can use Nikon Capture 4, but I am not about to spend the money on that. So what do? Should I take the pictures using the large jpg? I am assuming this will result in less quality and reduce the amount of photoediting I will be able to do. What are most people doing right now?
  12. If I had an "other", you think I'd be able to offord this! Being single can have its advantages.
  13. Thanks Viz'art. I did read those articles before, but to be honest, the only confused me more. I got lost in all the technical details and really only wanted a simplified answer. I hope I don't have to work all that math out myself. Just want to know what ports to get for best image and what diop setting to use. I think I'll learn the other stuff in time as I gain more experience. You explaination helps me, so now I know that I will most likely want both a flat port for the 60mm and a dome port for the 10.5 FE. I really appreciate everybody's help here, this really is a great forum with a lot of helpfull people. I'm learning a lot, but still have a lot more to go. I'm wondering If I should continue in this thread so that this thread will develope and show my progress, or If I should start making seperate post?
  14. Thanks Arnon_Ayal, you answered while I was typing in my last reply.
  15. Answered my own question about the power for strobes. The do indeed come with thier own battery. At least the Ike DS-125 does. Do people find a real need to dive with 2 strobes? What is the benifit/use? Do they both fire to increase the lighting, or is the second one just a backup? If they both fire, I would guess you would only really need a second light for deep dives, night dives, or cave dives where the natural lighting is much less. I'm still working on finding a good housing setup. I'm kind of limited in my reseach right now though. For some reason my office firewall is blocking Ike's website. Once I work out the housing, I still have some questions/concerns lens. Will any of my lenses work, or do I need to buy a different port for each lens. I think the 10.5 FE will be a good lens to dive with to start out. I've seen some pictures taken with that setup and they look good. What is the difference with using a flat port or a dome port?
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