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davichin last won the day on March 9 2015

davichin had the most liked content!

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About davichin

  • Rank
    Great White
  • Birthday 05/19/1973

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  • Location
    Las Palmas, Canary Islands, Spain

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200/D300/Fuji S5/Olympus 765uz
  • Camera Housing
    Hugyfot D200/D300pt22
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Subtronic Novas/YS250pros/Ikelite DS-125/SB800/epoque
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms/several filter, PRINGLES diffuser!
  1. Hello Hank, I am one of those who does´t even bother to carry a diopter lens with the 60mm because the focusing distance is so close to the port that it is hardly worth it (hard to light etc...), specially a +10 one. I have not tried the Nauticam, so I can´t comment on it, but I own Subsee and Saga, and I would choose the Saga one.
  2. There was a debate when Seacam started the Prelude line (incomprehensible lack of controls line...) which I think started with the nikon D7000 model; I never understood it and I would never consider any of its models. Seacam makes excellent housings (Silverline), strobes, ports and viewfinders... and then makes Prelude housings.
  3. First, you need to confirm your camera´s flash is in manual (strength is not really important as long as it is able to make the strobes fire). Second, the strobes have a slave controller that should be in the ON position. Try the equipment at home and check at different powers. Sometimes, when the camera is NOT in manual mode, the cameras iTTL preflash make the strobe fire, not having enough time/residual charge to reload for the proper strobe fire. Good luck!
  4. Another one following with interest... although the improvements over the 7100 (specially if, like happens to me, video is of not much interest) are not very big IMHO.
  5. Generally speaking, I find the 45º viewfinder a must have. I have both the straight and the 45º (INON ones) and I cannot remember the last time I used or missed the straight one. In your case, the 45º is not the most intuitive of items to get used to (aiming can be frustrating during the first dives), so, if you are not a patient person, it may not be the best idea to use it for the best time on a trip. Good luck!
  6. I own different Meyer Gorlitz lenses (Trioplans 50, 100, Primoplan...) and I can say that it is best to get some documentation before buying as there are different mounts (M42, Exacta...) and, at least in the special case of the 100mm, yield different results. Things to take into account are: they are only "fun" wide open, lose infinite focus on Nikons (mount flange distance) and are not very macro by themselves... One example:
  7. This is not a FX/DX difference, it is a camera/housing difference. In fact, popular Canon FX cameras do not have pop-up flash, so you cannot use TTL with optical fiber unless you use a micro-strobe, which is not the easiest/cleanest way (and it won´t use the exact eTTL protocol).
  8. I have both straight and 45 INONS and I now only use 45 for everything, although both are a huge improvement over standard housing viewfinders. If you dive regularly I would choose 45, if you don´t (say only two or three weeks a year) maybe the 180 will be more straight forward (no pun intended ) to use. I, on the other hand, find the 45 great for splits taking off the protective rubber (5 seconds on the INON).
  9. Hello all! After a long time of trying to obtain a permit to photograph cetaceans in the Canary Islands, my friends at www.oceanografica.com made it possible after signing a collaboration agreement to obtain imagery for them to use. Since then, I have been able to go out a couple of times and see 5 of the 30 registered species of cetaceans in the islands... and I will try to go as many times as possible in the near future. This topic is dedicated to the short fin pilot whales, Globicephala macrorhynchus, of which a family lives permanently here a couple miles off shore where they can hunt cephalopods in the deep ocean (around 1000m-3000ft). Images are taken without strobes and great effort, as they don´t exactly wait for the photographer to arrive
  10. Japanese style? Shallow depth of field is just a technique used to highlight a certain part of an image (and sometimes an unavoidable result of great magnification in macro images...). Black or blurred backgrounds have nothing to do with where you take the pictures... just open your lenses, get close (powerful close up lenses will help getting SDF) and enjoy.
  11. I have never used a glass dome and I think I have many sunburst images without any problems... I recently acquired a SAGA 4" coated glass mini dome but I have not tried it yet... we´ll see...
  12. The question is: Is anyone able to tell whether a photo has been taken with a plastic or a glass dome? The answer is no... It is much more important, specially with FF and rectilinear WA lenses, to use the right extension rings/configuration.
  13. Drew, you are always a high caudal fountain of knowledge! I have seen that in some operators is a free dive/ no reg thing; is it like that with them all? I ask because it seems difficult to take pictures like that?
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