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Kilili

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Everything posted by Kilili

  1. If you really want to do this right, i suggest the following: Put your whole rig together without floats, but all other hardware fittings. Use a fishing scale and some string and weigh it in a trash can of water. This is how much buoyancy you need. I use Inon floats plus a few Stix, but ULCS is no different. They all publish buoyancy specs for fresh water. You're weighing in fresh water, so everything matches. Build a little spreadsheet with the relevant data to evaluate a solution. If you bring along an extra Stix float or whatever, plus a couple of small fishing weights, you can fine tune on location. I can get my rig, which is an oversized Nikon with lights, fine tuned to where it is neutral in the water below the surface, but at the surface will actually float [barely]. I've been doing this for a while.
  2. Yes, 1000 DX, same location. Backscatter serviced and repaired for me under warranty, no charge, though the light itself I purchased in Singapore.
  3. I think not. I enlarged and tried color correction but saw no indicative blue, not that that's conclusive. Profile from head to back looks wrong though and no Nudipixel submits from Caribbean. That said, I must concede, however, that Marli is far better at nudi id than I.
  4. Flatworm, indeed. Pseudobiceros or Pseudoceros, but not one I recognise. You may find on nudipixel.net
  5. perhaps elongoviridis, but you can post to nudipixel.org
  6. for sure... http://www.nudipixel.net/species/cycloporus_venetus/
  7. Either way. I do both, and have had no problems.
  8. Can send you manual. Too big to attach here.
  9. Investigate? Maybe. Take action against? Unlikely. A while back, as I recall reading, a number of Bali immigration officers were caught stealing money whilst on the job, but kept their jobs and escaped punishment. On the other hand, I've gone thru there every year, 6 years running, with a pair of Nikon D2xs and a Subal housing. Never had a problem. Both were in carry-on. Maybe my luck has run out though.
  10. No problems with any of the camera stuff carry-on, incl. arms, strobes, etc, just no tools. The cable ties are a new one to me. Next, we'll have to check in our shoelaces, and wait until they realise a person can be strangled with a bra.
  11. Depending on where you purchased, they may be able to repair. Last time, I sent mine to Backscatter, though I actually purchased the light in Singapore.. I believe Reef Photo also repair. I sent one to Fisheye in Japan the first time, but the postage is outrageous. They replaced all the internals, but missed a bad o-ring under the switch, and it flooded again. Both times, everything covered by warranty. Good light, but Intovas are more affordable and, I believe, less prone to failure.
  12. Thanks for posting this. It's a path I'll need to follow as well. London? Guess that means the US FDA has not approved yet?
  13. Since I have mounts on the housing already, I use those for main attachment. I also a have down-facing spotter light [for nudis] and shoulder brace attached to the left handle. Handles tend to have more flex, and I consider them less solid for attaching stuff. I mount a high-power focus light [1k lumen] top center on an extension clamp. As my rig is a bit heavy, I consider it key to attach the float arms to achieve neutral buoyancy such that the camera will naturally position itself in a lens-forward position. For arms, I use the Inon oversized "M" Mega float arms. Two give 46 oz of buoyancy. Most people, though, are less extreme. I suggest that the most important point is to achieve properly balanced near neutral bouyancy. How you do so is less important.
  14. I'm thinking of getting one of these for my Subal 105mm VR port for the Nikon 105mm VR, and am looking for experiences on how well this works. I'm assuming DOF must be about zero. Can you compare against other solutions? Also, how does it affect subject distance? Thanks much,
  15. My guess... The batteries were hot because the battery chamber flooded and they shorted out, generating a lot of heat. Gas buildup probably caused the explosion. When you say "blew out the front" is this what you mean? The battery chamber is not isolated from the rest of the strobe, and any water within it generally guarantees destroying the whole thing. I've seen this happen in salt water [without exploding], with its high conductivity. Does seem less probable in fresh water pool, but I've never actually tried it to find out. As a type 4, only Eneloop batteries are to be used. May I assume these were not? Even so, not likely they would be the source of the problem. They only problem I ever encountered with Z240s was from flooding caused by an o-ring swelling, jumping the groove on closure, and me not noticing [no explosion, but certainly pressure buildup] Swelling is normally the result of not using the correct grease. Since yours is new, that seems improbable Go back to where you got it and see if you can get satisfaction.
  16. I shoot all macro, and use high-power 500 lm spotter lights as I don't see well in dim light. They don't cause any problems. Set up your camera inside, where it's warm, do a few different shots, and check them.
  17. Well, since you asked, I tried it out. I've a Galaxy Tab 8.9, which differs from the 10.1 only in screen size. The adapter works fine with a memory stick of CF reader. However, if you attach a USB hub and try to connect more than one device, it will fail. A hard drive alone, with independent power, might work, but I'm nervous about trying it out. Rather someone else be the guinea pig. There's an appl on the Android market called nef-Thumbnailer, also one for Canon. It's unclear whether you can zoom in on images to check focus. I'll try it out and post back. As far as the 64GB device size, I see no problem unless you are trying to keep 60GB of raw images on it. I do long trips and shoot 200GB or so, but always have a laptop and backup drives. You could always carry a small portable drive and USB hub, using the Galaxy Tab to cache files. At some point, borrow a computer and use it to transfer files from the Galaxy Tab to the drive. This is my fallback plan if I have laptop problems and no other computer around to transfer CF to the hard drives. I'm concerned about transfer speed issues with the Galaxy Tab, and want to do some sample transfers to see how that works out. More copies are better anyway. I bring back 3 or 4 separate copies, and have had one drive suddenly go unusable when I got back. ____________ Update, appl above works fine for NEF files, can zoom in for focus check, etc. Displays camera data, etc. Easily creates jpg images. Looks like a good tool to have. Also check Rawdroid, which looks interesting, though I have not tried.
  18. You want to address two things, work out how to combat fatigue plus how to mininise potential for failure. I try to adjust to the destination time zone, at least partially, before flying out. My trips are normally 9 time zones west, to I attempt to adjust my sleeping patterns 4-5 hours. On the flight, I wear noise cancelling headphones, ones that cover the ear, as they are more effective. Sometimes I play music, sometimes not. I take two benadryl before the plane takes off, an anti-histamine, but also helps to sleep, which I try to do on the first leg, about 12-14 hr flight. I wear a nice sleep mask I got at REI. I tend to be awake on the second leg, 2-5 hrs. When I get to my destination [say Bali], I allow for 1-2 days down time, eat, sleep, walk around, etc. I don't touch my camera. Often, it's an other short trip to where I'll be staying and diving, [like Tulamben, Manado, Wakatobi, Ambon]. When I get there, it's camera assembly time. I've a fairly big system, over-sized housing, 2 strobes, 2 large lights for illumination, plus a few extra things. I make sure everything is checked, cleaned and prepped before the trip. If o-rings have to be removed, like for the housing and strobes, I put in plastic bags and stick in the housing/strobe. I keep a checklist for everything I need to do to complete setup. The housing also has labels inside to remind me of settings and what to check, like o-rings. I assume I'll be half brain dead, and try to leave nothing to chance. Before diving, I check the setup in the pool or rinse tank. A salt-water environment is not the place to find a leak. The first dive, I pay special attention to the setup, looking for leaks. I also carry a spare camera and lens, just in case. As my diving is oriented towards photography, a malfunction is a disaster. If your system is relatively new, practice disassembly, reassembly before the trip. Pack any tools you use, plus extra key o-rings, like for the housing. Assuming digital, make sure you make at least 2 copies of everything you shoot. Use separate drives. I tend to be a bit obsessive about all this, and have encountered numerous camera problems on trips, including a camera that simply quit working, but nothing that has caused me to lose a full day of shooting. I'm also 60+ and the flights and time change sometimes hit me pretty hard, and I pace things accordingly. Some people adjust easily to the trips, off the plane and ready to dive. Not me.
  19. Try nudipixel.net, perhaps Favorinus. Can always submit for proper id.
  20. Typical of them, though in the end, after many calls and emails, they paid submitted claims. I don't like their recent policy changes, and have switched to DAN, though filed no claims yet with them.
  21. I had same problem, was traced back to not using INON o-ring grease. where did you find?
  22. I have a short double lanyard on my right wrist at all times. Never found it to interfere with anything. On the left handle, I have a 12" stainless steel cable with clip. If current is strong, I will clip it to my backplate harness. Easier to keep the rig under control, and free up my hand a bit. If I had to remove the lanyard to use my hand, the camera would not be a worry.
  23. I wouldn't count on the integrity of the battery compartment. A few years ago I went in with the o-ring out of alignment and water got into everything, beyond redemption.
  24. Blue Rose has good boats, mediocre rooms and food, quite inexpensive and dive the same areas. Cape Paparua a few hours away, fantastic rooms, good food, and prices to match. Good diving. No one else around too. Been to both.
  25. Why can't it do that when I'm there?
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