Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shinythings

  1. I have a brand new GoBe+ with the 700 lumen 20 degree beam. I would imagine it would be a great macro focus light, or just a dive light. It retails for $279USD so I would like to get $220USD including shipping in CONUS and Canada. Cheers, Mitch
  2. A local dealer hooked me up with f/o cable made by "F.I.T" for $45 - half price. I have yet to get them in the water but for half the price I'd so I'm pretty happy so far. I wasn't able to find much info on the company online but they are compatible for nauticam MIL housings and aquatica to S&S.
  3. I ended up picking up 2 used Ys-02's for $380 for my upcoming trip next week. For now they should do the job and I'll give manual shooting a try. The S&S strobes have much more ergonomic dial positioning - changing power with my old ikelite 160s was a PITA. I definitely think a transition to YS-D1's would be nice, but I still need to get familiar with the new camera first and add a wide angle lens before they are a must. For now, shooting at high power and complementing light with my video and focus light should get the job done - I hope!
  4. (2) DB-BL12 (large 12" long by 2" wide double ball buoyancy arms) Asking $85USD including shipping, or best offer. Shipping for CONUS and Canada. I bought these in the fall along with some triple ball clamps in anticipation of adding video lights but I went a different direction. Due to this they have only been on a handful of dives.
  5. Sold! I still have the DS160 for sale here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54833
  6. (1) Ikelite Modular Glass Flat Front Macro Port (#5510.35) (1) Ikelite 3.5" Extension Ring (#5510.16) (1) Extra Port O-ring (#8239) I believe it works with the Canon 40mm/50mm/60mm, Nikon 40mm; however, DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THAT! To confirm it is compatible with your lens you can use the "Port Finder" on Ikelite's website. Asking $200 + shipping, or best offer. MSRP is ~$360. Thanks for looking!
  7. With the exchange, price is AUS$ would be $725 + shipping, open to offers.
  8. Yes sorry, price is USD. I'd be willing to ship to Australia if you pay the shipping.
  9. Ikelite DS160 Strobe for sale - Asking $600, or best offer. Included is the following: - (1) Ikelite DS160 Strobe - (1) Ikelite Battery Pack for Strobe - (1) Ikelite 6" x 1" Ball Arm - (2) Ikelite 1" Ball Clamps - (1) Ikelite 1" Ball Mount Quick Release for Ikelite Trays Feel free to PM me or call/text at 250.864.0024 Cheers, Mitch LaRue
  10. I checked compatibility and S&S says that the TTL function is compatible with my EM5... any reason not to trust this?
  11. I have a good focus light and video light already (2 SOLAs). Do you find manual shooting frustrating? With my old IKE strobes I found it to be a PITA because of how hard it was to turn the dials.
  12. I use the Inon 67mm wet lens mount on my ULCS arms. It just requires you be a little creative with a washer and nut on the other side.
  13. I will cast my vote for ULCS. I have seen far more Nauticam Housings with ULCS Arms than I have with Nauticam Arms. I have a set of ULCS arms and clamps that are at least 150 dives old now. They work just like new. So to answer the first question - ULCS all the way IMO. Aquatica also has some nice arms, but do avoid arms made by housing manufacturers in general. To answer the second one - YES, all 1" ball mount arms/clamps/bases are interchangeable/standardized. I know several people with Nauticam/ULCS set-ups (and as of a few days ago, myself included). It sounds like you want some buoyancy arms as well. I actually have a pair of 2"x12" ULCS float arms I would sell you, but I think you would be more happy with the ULCS ladder frame arms and the "stix" jumbo floats (can't remember exactly how they spell "stix"). These floats are an add of and are made out of foam. This is great because with my DSLR in the past I would use 8 floats, but with my compact I would only use 4 which made it easy to change the arms between the two rigs. Also, now that I have just got a new rig I can adjust the old arms to perfectly fit the new rig without having to buy new arms.
  14. I have just recently sold my Ikelite 160s and housing and moved onto an olympus/nauticam mirrorless setup. So that leave me with the question of strobes. I know from some of my buddy's that have the YS-D1 that they are a very nice, compact and relatively powerful strobe and would prefer to buy two of them, but I'm looking at a budget of about $700 for a new strobe(s). So that raises the question: buy 2 used 110a's or 1 new D1??? A little bit about my shooting - I dive mostly cold water with low vis and I haven't shot WA for a very long time (almost exclusively macro, use the kit lens once every 30 dives to so). Would a model like the YS-01 (which I believe has the TTL feature, a big must for myself) be a better option than just one D1? Thanks for your insights!!!
  15. Almost all DSLRs can be used in live view (the little "LV" button to the right of the screen on D7000) and would be just as easy to see as any compact or mirrorless system.
  16. I am not sure whether someone wants to take the whole thing, or just pieces. I put the following items together as a starting point for price, but I am open to offers. - Nikon D5000 Body - Ikelite Housing - Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 G VR Zoom Lens - Nikon 40mm MACRO f/2.8 G Prime Lens - Dome Port for 40mm and 18-55mm lens (5503.50) - Zoom Gear for 18-55 (no clamp) - Focus Gear for 40mm - Double Handled Tray w/ Quick Release for arms - Ikelite DS125 Strobe - Ikelite sync cord for strobe - 1" Ball Mount post, 2 Clamps and a 6" long double-ended ball arm for Strobe - Assorted extras (o-rings, ect.) - Pelican Hard Case, perfect carry on size, custom cut to fit the above components ($300 new) Asking $1300 OBO - Everything you need to start in DSLR Also: - Ikelite DS160 Strobe - arm, clamps, QR post for strobes - Modular Glass Flat Front and - 3.5in port extension (for 40mm, Canon 60mm, many more...) - Dual sync cord - strobe charger Feel free to give me a call at 1.250.864.0024 or PM and I can pass more photos on if you'd like. Thanks for looking! -Mitch LaRue
  17. What I do for my video lights is bolt a flat mount with a 3/4" nib to attach loc line to onto the ladder frame of my stand ULCS arms. This allows for complete freedom in adjusting the strobes but also allows for independent adjustability of the video light that you don't get with a triple ball clamp setup. I don't like using 4 ball mounts to have independent arms for video lights and strobes as it clutters the top of the housing. I will try to post a picture later. It works very well.
  18. I would suggest looking around for a non-diving related source for the loc line as it is much more expensive to buy loc line from places like L&M, ikelite ect. than it is to buy it from a plumbing distributor... just keep in mind that diving retailers refer to loc line based on its outside diameter (OD) but plumbing refers to the inside diameter (ID). Here in Canada buying loc line from "ehpope.com" saves me well over 60% over ordering from a dive related source. They have bulk loc line as well as flat mounts, adapters, elbows... basically everything you need for a loc line setup. I would buy two end cap with the hole in it and bolt/screw that strait to the nauticam aluminum post top/bracket.
  19. Of all the mid-range zoom lenses, which one would be the best option for video? So the sake of cost I was looking at the 14-42mm Pansonic PZ. Nauticam suggests using it behind the 35 Macro Port, but I was wondering if I would be unhappy with it behind the 45 Macro Port I just got for the 45mm Macro lens. Will the extra air space be noticeable? I most likely will not be using the 14-42 for much macro but it would a great topside lens and versatile lens for video u/w as well as take casual photos on the same dive. Is the proper port worth the extra ~$300? If you would choose any M4/3 lens for UW video, which one would it be?
  • Create New...