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Everything posted by mattdiver

  1. Actually, James wrote a review on this a while back. This was using Inon mounts, though. Check out: http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/inon-access...p-dc40-housing/ If you find that you get vignetting with this setup, you can always use the Photoshop Heal tool to correct this on keepers... Cheers, Mat
  2. Actually, the question being specifically about macro shots, ISO 200 is definitely OK with a DS125, which delivers a lot of punch. Since most of the time you don't expose for the background, you should get pretty good results at say F22 or smaller, even with 1/2 power on your strobe (depending on where you place it, of course). Even if you want to expose properly for the background, you'd have to dial down to say F8 or F11, in which case you'd probably have to use 1/8 power on the strobe possibly with a diffuser on... Cheers, Mat
  3. Although the D100 probably has a limited dynamic range as compared to some of the newer cameras, it seems that a number of images are generally overexposed. You could pick a couple of pictures (say Anderson21 or Carlisle 35) and indicate depth, visibility and camera settings to confirm this. A good example is Liberator304, which has the full range of tones, from shadows to highlights and is very pleasant. On the other hand, Liberator 327 is too bright, and would have benefitted from a faster shutter speed and/or smaller aperture. Hope this helps, Mat
  4. RainX (the stuff used on car windshield) works great on glass ports, but is not recommended for acrylic ports. Not sure what's best for the latter. Cheers, Mat
  5. Mike's reply is pretty much spot on. If I may only add my 2 cents' worth: 1) Take a dry suit course prior to your trip, as dry suit diving skills are quite different, and you don't want to learn that on the spot, in one of the harshest environments on Earth! 2) The course will also teach you on what to look for in a dry suit and undergarments, so you can make an informed choice when you buy one. 3) If at all possible, once you've purchased your dry suit, do a few dives with it to fine tune your buoyancy. Otherwise, taking pictures will be quite challenging. I switched to a dry suit after more than 1000 dives, and it proved a rather frustrating experience at first... apart from the fantastic thermal comfort 4) In terms of brands, a friend of mine has dived in Antartica several times using an Apollo dry suit. I'm using the same and am very happy with it. If you intend to buy second hand, provided you can sort out the sizing (which is quite a complex business in itself!), you may need to change the seals (if they are in latex). In this case, the new DUI system for a quick change of seals may be the most adapted to your needs, especially if you sell it again after the trip... 5) As for ice diving regs, as suggested by Mike, check first whether your reg(s) can be converted. If not, check out the Beuchat VX10 Iceberg or the Mares Proton Ice which are dedicated ice diving regulators. Cheers, Mat
  6. Hi Fernando, How to get these shots depends on which camera and housing you use. Generally, you will need, as a minimum, a fisheye lens and port (for dSLR cameras), or a wet-attached fisheye converter (for consumer/prosumer cameras). In addition, depending on the location, time of the day and subject, you may require one or all of the following: strobe(s), split diopter, and graduated filter... a calm sea also helps... Cheers, Mathieu
  7. Hi David, The pictures are great, except for the lack of subject, especially in the first shot The sky in the first 2 shots appear a tad overexposed, though. I suggest you get a graduated filter to compensate for the difference in light intensity above and under the water. Cheers, Mathieu
  8. Check out this website, which shows available housings for your camera: http://www.digideep.com/english/digital/ph...EOS-300D-/7/639 It appears only the Hugyfot housing comes with a single hard handle on the left. Cheers, Mat
  9. Julian's reply is spot on, and I would just like to add that although the DS50 is cheaper than the DS125, you will also need to get a manual controller to adjust the strobe output, as it is not possible to control it straight from the strobe. Mat
  10. Hi Robert, Colour mode and colour spaces used to be muddled up before the D2X. In actual fact, colour spaces really define the gamut of colours available in the picture (range of colours available), while color mode defines how saturated the pictures will be (intensity of colors). The first is an intrinsic quality of the image, while the second is post-processed in the camera. To conclude, I should think that colour modes will only affect JPEG files, and RAW that are used straight off, without tweaking them in the RAW conversion software. Note that it is always possible to adjust colour saturation during post processing on your computer, using a calibrated screen for accurate results... There is an easy to read description of these concepts specifically written for Nikon dDLRs on: http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/n...html?source=rss Cheers, Mathieu
  11. Hi Mike, This one's from Sangalaki in Indonesia, but I've also seen in on the East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia... The picture in Debelius' book has an orange cast to it that reduces the contrast of the picture. You should also check out Neville Coleman's 1001 Nudibranchs book that has a couple of pictures of the C. Geometrica. Both books are great for quick reference, by the way. Cheers, Mathieu
  12. It may not always be possible, given the circumstances that these photos were taken in (free diving), but if at all possible, shooting with the sun in the back, lighting the scene, would make a tremendous difference. Also, if you shot them in RAW, it is possible to correct the exposure on some shots (e.g. brighten up underexposed shots) using your RAW conversion software, using the "exposure compensation" slider. This minimises "damage" to the original data captured by the camera.
  13. I've used the P2000 on a couple of dive trips recently. I found the download speed acceptable (around 6-7mins for 1GB), the screen bright and sharp, navigating through menus is easy, and the ability to review RAW files is really nice. It displays a D100 RAW file in less than 1s, which I think is relatively fast (although I can only compare this with my antiquated laptop). The ability to organise pictures into albums is also very useful. The only thing that I found disappointing was that it only allows to zoom into JPEGs, not RAW files. Finally, for 12-16mp cameras, the 40GB space may be a bit restrictive, but it is adequate for 6-8mp cameras. Anybody listening at Epson? Mat
  14. Hi Guys, I recently saw this slimy thing slithering on the sand in Indonesia. It may well be something common, but I've never come accross anything like it before, and I can't find it in books. Description in short: about 1m long, 2cm wide, and 3-4mm thick. The second photo shows what should be the head (?), from which it was probing and moving ahead. Anyone knows what this is? Thanks, Mat
  15. Hi Eric, I first noticed the critters you mention in Manado in 2003. Since then, I've seen them in lots of places in Malaysia and Indonesia. I've got a couple of pictures to share. Unfortunately, I never seem to have the right lens when I spot these guys. On the second photo, you can just make out one of them carrying small juveniles (?) on its back. Cheers, Mat
  16. Hi Peter, Just adding my 2 cents' worth... In short, advantages of dSLR v/s consumer digicam: virtually no shutter lag, can take several shots in quick succession, can shoot in RAW, use quality sensors and lenses, etc. Down sides of dSLRs: higher initial cost, stuck with choice of lens for entire dive, heavier and bulkier than digicam. In case all this adds to your confusion, I can tell you that for me, shifting to a dSLR has proved a very positive experience that I would definitely recommend... Mathieu
  17. No worries, Bruce. I dont't think you'll have much luck with a 125mm port, as the diopter fits just snugly onto the 115mm Seacam port. The skirt does overlap the port glass a fair bit, but given the narrow angle of view of the lenses you will use it with, it should be no problem. With my 60mm Nikkor lens, it certainly is no issue. Cheers, Mathieu
  18. Hi Jeremy, I'm down with dengue fever, so I'll have to wait a little while longer before I can test the diopter underwater. The lens relies on a snug fit around the port, so it is a bit tight, but that's what keeps it in place. On the other hand, the diopter is also with a couple of holes at the base of the skirt, nearer the lens, so any water trapped will be purged as the diopter is pushed onto the port. With this in mind, it should be just as easy to fit underwater as it is on land. Cheers, Mathieu
  19. Hi Bruce, I have recently purchased the CL-110 from Woody (he's great to deal with, by the way). It actually fits the Seacam macro port perfectly, without a sign of stretching (see photo). You don't have to force it on at all. As a matter of fact the CL110 comes with a rubber ring so that it can fit smaller ports. This ring is knurled (see photo), just like the front of the Seacam port, so the diopter lens is securely held in place. Anyway, I'll be trying the CL110 underwater next week, but I don't anticipate any major issues using it. Cheers, Mathieu
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