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mattdiver

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Everything posted by mattdiver

  1. For me, it goes through the blue cartridge first. What do you print most? Don't have any experience with continuous inking systems, but I stay away from them, as I've heard stories of clogged print heads...
  2. There are probably many ways to do this. Personally, I created an action for this. I'll say this from memory, as I don't have PS on this machine. - You open an image and go to the "Action" tab (next tab after the "History" tab). - Press the Record button (little red circle) (can't remember if you have to assign a name then or at the end. If now, then call it 'watermark' or 'copyright'...) - Go to the Text tool and select the font and size to use. - Write your copyright onto the picture. - Apply any effect to this (e.g. change in opacity, warping, etc.) - Merge the layers (Layers>Merge Visible) - Press the "Stop" button in the Action tab At this point, the action is recorded, and you can either use it manually on other pictures, or automate by going into the File > Automate menu There you have to select the action to apply (i.e. "Copyright"), the folder where your photos are, and where to save the new files).
  3. Best way to learn, though. If something went wrong and you don't know why, just post away and others will help you understand...
  4. The Z240s should be fine for both WA and macro. They're powerful but light, recycle fast and incorporate a modelling light.
  5. To avoid lighting up the background, just change the orientation of your strobes (e.g. slightly upward, or sharply angled from the sides, etc.) The black background is generally (?) not an intentional effect, it comes from the use of a small aperture (to maximise DOF) in combination with a fast shutter speed to freeze the action when using a long lens. If you intentionally want to achieve this effect, set the shutter speed on your camera to its highest sync speed, set your aperture in the region of F22, and set your strobe power to expoose the foreground subject properly...
  6. Tha angle's fine for the scorpionfish. It engages the viewer. As David suggested, post the whole picture to compare...
  7. Did you shoot in RAW? If so, there is a variant to Scorpio_fish's technique that should work well, using 2 "different exposures", this one, and another 1 stop down...
  8. That's a great loss, he was a great photographer with a fantastic eye for stunning pictures.
  9. Best of all, he works as an airline pilot, and edits his UW movies on long haul flights between takeoff and landing, to kill time...
  10. I have a few books by Debelius, including one of Crustaceans. There are mixed opinions on his books, but they work for my (limited) needs. There's a link to these books here: http://www.oceans.com.au/oe-ikan.html
  11. As far as I know, the word "strobe" is used in pro photo studios to describe a flash. It could well be that the use of that word for underwater photography came from that, at a time when this activity was left mostly to pros.
  12. This is the sort of topic on which we could debate for hours... ... or simply say that cropping is a means to an end. I don't encourage cropping, quite the contrary, but it's a tool that's available to photographers, and they're going to use it, no matter what...
  13. Nice symmetrical composition. The eyes engage the viewer...
  14. I'd suggest you follow this procedure: 1) Use a clean, damp cloth to clean off the salt deposits inside the housing. 2) Thoroughly clean the contacts of the moisture indicator. If there's any trace of corrosion on the contacts, you can use some vinegar or lemon juice to rub it off. 3) Change the detector battery if any water got to it. 4) Try and identify where the leak came from. Thoroughly inspect all the accessible o-rings. Main culprits are generally the housing perimeter o-ring, or the port o-ring. Look out for sand, hair, nicks or scratches on the o-ring. 5) If the previous step is unsuccessful, try putting everything back together as it was (minus the camera), immerse the whole lot in a tub of clean water, and look out for a string of bubbles. 6) Once you've identified the faulty o-ring, clean it or change it as appropriate, and try again. Good luck!
  15. Nice shots Imran. North Sulawesi does have a number of impressive sites that one still enjoys after diving there many times. <thread hi-jacking warning> I've put together a small gallery of the shots I took in Manado and Lembeh this year here: http://trips.mathieumeur.com/manado2006/ The first few are taken with the magic filter.
  16. Nice one, Martyn. It seems to correct the distortion pretty well. I've tried 2 or 3 different software before without much success. This being said, you'd have to think about the cropping that happens at the corners at the time that you're composing the shot...
  17. The D2000 will not work with a DSLR as it can only be triggered by a slave sensor. On the other hand, the next generation (D2000W) accepts sync cords and works with beautifully DSLRs.
  18. 10.5mm for the stunning underwater scenes it captures... Can't use it much topside, but who cares anyway
  19. Wetpixel member Saeedrashid posted an interesting automated action here that does just that: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15067&hl= If you have specific examples of photos to fix, you can post them in low rez and we'll see what we can do to help...
  20. The rumours seem confirmed. Nikon seems to be catching up with the Canon trend... There is a full review of the D40 posted on DPReview: http://www.dpreview.com/articles/nikond40/ As suspected by TKR, the 18-55mm has been re-designed as well. MSRP is $599, which is rather attractive for someone wanting to have a go at a DSLR, but isn't quite sure yet... Could be interesting as a topside body to carry around when you don't want to get the big one out of its housing
  21. Although I can't offer a comparison, I went the Epson way a few months back too, and am very satisfied with its performance so far.
  22. Thanks for the kudos. The shot was taken with the Nikkor 10.5mm fisheye lens, about 1m or so away. To give you a better idea of its actual size, the tiny "dots" in the middle of its tentacles are actually juvenile trevallies seeking shelter there...
  23. A diopter is a piece of glass that fits in front of a lens to shorten its minimum focusing distance. This is required for some lenses when used in combination with dome ports as the lens then has to focus on a virtual image generated by the dome relatively close to the lens. As for your setup, it's workable, but the range of subjects you'll be able to shoot will be limited to "medium size" subjects. For macro or very large subjects, you'll need other lenses and ports, and possibly another strobe.
  24. The animal on the left is a snake eel. I don't know how common this sort of mismatched pair is, but I've seen it a number of times, in Mauritius, Philippines and Indonesia. Not my best picture ever, but here goes anyway
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