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mattdiver

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Everything posted by mattdiver

  1. Your model's skin appears nice and pink on my screen The face may be a bit too pale, but a trip to Hawaii may not be necessary just yet. Cutting down on strobe power a tad would do just fine. The really white part on the forehead seems to be the mask skirt... Next time, ask your model to use a mask with a black skirt
  2. I agree with Alex, it's probably a contact issue. I've been using a pair of D2000W with NiMH batteries (GP and Energizer) for several months without problems.
  3. The YS90 will only work in manual with the E330 and the HW TTL converter. Here in green you'll find a list of strobes that offer TTL functionality: http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/cgi-bin/cg...p;kamera=o_e330 As for the 10Bar housing, can't help you much. I've handled them on land only, never underwater.
  4. I've spent a couple of weeks in Scuba Seraya a few months back and had a great time. Accomodation was good, as were the dive guides and dive centre setup. The Liberty is only 5 minutes away by boat, and they have a great macro site right in front of the resort Highly recommended.
  5. External viewfinders are common for high-end video rigs, but I'm not aware of any for still cameras. You didn't specify the issue with using your LCD, but here are some pointers to cover some common problems: - Use an LCD shade on your housing - Adjust the LCD contrast and brightness - Use the LCD to check proper composition, and the histogram to confirm good exposure - Use a magnified viewfinder on your housing - Use stick-on bi-focals inside your mask
  6. What James said stands. I had an aquatica wet-attached WA lens that worked great above and underwater. I also had a Sea&Sea that only worked underwater, and wouldn't allow the camera to focus above water. Besides, for use in water, lenses need special construction details and materials to work properly and not deteriorate (e.g. corrosion, water between elements, etc.)
  7. The strobes are OK for WA. A number of serious amateurs and pros use them (or their predecessors, the Z220s) successfully for WA shots.
  8. I don't know for sure, but it is rather unlikely that the Cokin WA converter will fit inside the port of your housing. For WA shots underwater, you'd be better off checking out Inon or other similar wet-attached convertors.
  9. I've actually tried to do panos with the 10.5mm, and found that the software I use is fooled by the 180º of view and cannot stitch the images properly, regardless of the amount of overlap I used. This may just be a problem with the software I use, though...
  10. To add to Alex' post, fixed exposure parameters and a large amount of overlap between adjacent frames is necessary with such wide lenses. Otherwise, the pano software may not stitch the images properly...
  11. It sure is Allogalathea elegans. The black and white variant is actually quite common. I've seen it all over indonesia and the Philippines. It is also in the middle photo of page 240 of the Debelius book on Crustaceans.
  12. Giles, I think you come to these conclusions because you're mixing up 2 formula linked to 2 different concepts. In you Wikipedia link, the formula for attenuation of sound waves is correct, and the definition of attenuation in optics is also correct. The problem is that the latter does not apply to acoustics. In acoustics, the definition of attenuation is a(dB) = 20 x log (p0/p) When used with values of alpha=0.0022, l=100cm, and f=1MHz, you come up with an attenuation of about 2.5% only. Even squared to account for the loss of signal in two directions (camera-to-strobes-tocamera), 5% attenuation is totally acceptable. Now I look like a proper nerd Put in simpler terms, think about a boat on the surface. You can hear it from 1 mile away underwater and still think it's overhead. Now, shift the frequency up into the ultrasound (increase the frequency by a factor of say 1,000), and cut the distance by the same factor, you can see from the attenuation formula that the net effect of the absorption of sound waves underwater will be the same in both cases. The original sound pressure may be vastly different, but it will also be hardly reduced while travling in water. With regards to speed, as far as I can tell, trigger and TTL signals are in the tens of millisecond range. When compared to say 0.5ms travel time for a sound wave, it seems a conceptually viable option, even though Ike may have not found it workable in practice...
  13. Not so. Sound travels 5x faster underwater than in air, say around 1,750m/s. Assuming a strobe to housing distance of 1m for the sake of discussion, the signal would be transmitted in about 0.5ms. That's pretty damn fast!
  14. 2 x 5", or 1 x 8" + 1 x 5" should work fine for macro and general WA.
  15. I just got myself a Vosonic and it works great. Works with RAW and JPEGs, can play movies and MP3s, and has a user-interchangeable hard drive. It's pretty good value for money IMHO: http://www.vosonic.com/index.php?PA=produc...amp;kind_id=12:
  16. After the feeding jellyfish I mentioned a couple of weeks ago, it seems that our local weekend getaway destination (yes, just rubbing it in ) has a fair bit to offer at the moment. Last weekend we got to see a school of barracuda, tons of cuttlefish, and even a manta ray on Saturday afternoon. But what really stood out from the lot was a jellyfish. The mother of all jellyfish, to be precise. The damn thing was huge. We could see it from the boat, a few meters from the surface. I free-dived down to grab a few shots, and a buddy followed down. Just to give a feel for the size of the jellyfish, the diver in the back is 1.8m tall, and about 1m behind it. Oh, and that photo cost me some massive stings to the neck, upper lip and ear :glare: Lucky for me I got stung many times before and hardly react to it anymore
  17. The CMAS World Photo Championship will definitely be held in Mauritius, from 9 to 14 May 2007. The main organiser is a good friend of mine, and I will post an annoucement on Wetpixel in the next couple of days.
  18. Nicely done, Kees. Congrats on the wins. I love the cuttlefish shot!
  19. I agree with James in terms of lens choices and techniques. The 12-24mm is probably a good choice as a starting point for capturing individuals. It will allow you to take pictures of the entire animal, as well as portrait shots (they sometimes mark a pause to check you out). After an initial dive, you may want to switch to the 10.5mm if you come accross groups of sea lions that you can approach.
  20. In digital workshops, I often mention the obvious fact that electronics and salt water don't mix well. If you're careful with the TTL converter circuit board, it should flawlessly.
  21. There's an excellent book by John Boyle called "A step-by-step guide to underwater video" that covers pretty much anything from shooting to editing UW videos... See this link: http://www.sharkbayfilms.com/videos_dvds_books.html
  22. I have seen quite a few of those covers pop underwater before. Not exactly the best and sturdiest design. Have fun with the new setup... =)
  23. There was an article on diving with Sharks in Fiji in a past issue of SD Australasia, about 1 year ago. Here is a link to the text of the article: http://www.underwater.com.au/article.php/id/1960/ Incidentally, I had an article on switching from compact to dSLR cameras in the same issue of the mag
  24. The Vosonic player with an 80GB drive sells for under US$300 here...
  25. You should check this out: http://www.vosonic.com/index.php?PA=produc...&kind_id=12 The player does offer a host of functions that photographers wouldn't need, but it does copy images fast from cards, displays RAW images complete with histogram and EXIF data, and even allows you to rotate and zoom RAW files, which a lot of players don't do. On top of that, the HD is upgradeable, even though it would take a pretty long trip to fill 120GB!
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