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Everything posted by mattdiver

  1. And now that you finally got it, you should also check out the Vosonic alternative. Same functions and performance, but half the price
  2. UV lights can be used to bring out the natural fluorescence of marine creatures. A company (NightSea) even developped dive lights and filters specifically for this purpose. There was an article in Asian Geographic on this topic a year or so ago.
  3. The Ikelite DS125 is a very good choice. Alternatively, the Inon Z240s offers great performance in a smaller package. Also offers TTL functionality and 10 or so manual settings.
  4. The 60mm Nikkor is a fine lens that works great with a digital setup. Why change? Just saved you a few hundred bucks (probably more, when you factor in the cost of port and gear), now you owe me a beer
  5. You can check out the following links: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13085&hl= http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11326&hl=
  6. All RAW converters (including the one in the camera) typically apply a number of settings to the sensor data (colours, saturation, brightness, contrast, etc.). It is more than likely that your problem results from that. To make sure you get the best and most consistent results, you should make sure that your screen is calibrated, and that all your editing programs make use of your monitor profile.
  7. Thanks guys You mean one like this
  8. You can also try immersing the port in very cold water prior to trying. It will shrink ever so slightly and make it easier to unscrew.
  9. You should also look into Hin Daeng and Hin Muang to the South. Probably a better choice than Koh Samui for diving...
  10. In fact, it was pretty slow. Checked me out for a while, probably to see whether I'd want a bite too After that, it just ignored me altogether, which was good and bad. I could take shots, but never with a clean background!
  11. I've seen shots taken underwater with the older version of that lens using a film camera. You get a black frame all round a circular picture. From the specs, it looks like you can't really get that effect without a full-frame camera. In any case, I should think that the Nikkor 10.5mm is a more useful lens...
  12. The retouched version looks very plasticky and lacks detail, including in the water. This is obvious even in the overall picture. It looks like you applied filters to the entire image. You should try a more targetted approach, e.g. use the heal brush to eliminate the bubbles on the model's face...
  13. You should probably not leave your housing to soak for such a long time. A thorough clean as described by John above works best.
  14. That's a camera for kids, John This 160 megapixel monster is the real thing http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/...8/d925/f934.cfm Now, to find a housing for it...
  15. These posts are obviously spam, and I've reported them to the moderating team...
  16. Yes, definitely one of those cases where I wish I had video instead of a still camera
  17. It depends on the relative intensity of your focus light an d your strobe. Generally, the latter should overpower the focus light, so you wouldn't get a hot spot on the picture. If you do get one, then just lock focus first (by half-pressing the shutter) and move the focus light briefly away while you take the shot.
  18. Last weekend was pretty much a run-of-the-mill dive trip. Same old place on the East coast of Malaysia that I visit every other weekend. But the night dive held something special in store. I came accross a small cuttlefish that looked a bit weird, with a tail in front! It took a few seconds before I realised it was chomping away on a rabbitfish almost as large as itself. I followed it for 20 minutes as it proceeded to meticulously chew on the fish... ... before eventually spitting out the headless body. Pretty cool for an otherwise ordinary weekend
  19. This works great and has been available for a very long time, actually. The download link is: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details...;displaylang=en
  20. You should use the focus light for just that: to assist the camera focus. Except for very special cases, your strobe will remain your main light source.
  21. They have recently started distributing in the US via Ubiquity Distributors Inc. You might want to contact them again at info@asiangeo.com.
  22. Alright, alright. Since I'm being asked to post them, here are the pictures:
  23. Mike Veitch has the cover for the latest issue of Scuba Diver Australasia. He was too shy to mention it, so I thought I'd do the honours Eric Cheng also has a very nice portfolio in the very same issue: And I've got a few images in the magazine as well, but I'll let others blow my trumpet
  24. There have been a couple of threads on this topic. I suggest you do a quick search for them. Here's one: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10260&hl=
  25. It's hard to judge, as depth of field is pretty small for high magnification shots in any case (with or witout TC). In theory, I suppose it is. Here's a quick sample of what you can expect. The eyes are sharp, and that's all you need
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