Cerianthus

I tried and failed :-) The newer NiMH cells are just a bit bigger in diameter making it an awkward squeeze. (And maybe I am less handy soldering then I would want). I fit one, thougt i finished and then it started smoking (sghort circuit).. luckily straight away so no other casualties then those cells and my pride. I had them rebuild by Ken from Aquaphot in the UK.

https://www.thomann.de/nl/micro_mesh_soft_pads_set.htm?sid=abd485653787c84ffc239970c448a03b (in Germany) https://www.labshop.nl/micro-mesh-soft-pads/ not the set, but per pad, in Netherlands https://www.guitarsupplies.nl/nl/schuurpapier-staalwol-micromesh

I am still on 6.14. Still possible for my camera, as my camera still outshines me. There are tricks to keep using the map module (get a google billing account and generate your own map module) and the face recognition part (run as date). Prolost also has dehaze presets, that work with LR 6.14. With the DNG converter trick you can continue using it for other cameras as well. I dont need the full photoshop. I drink coffee, but dont use starbucks. Ligthroom here is not 9,99 dollars, but 12,09 euros (more like 15 dollars) per month. Every month, if you use it a lot or not. I paid for LR 5 and LR 6. I am willing to pay a fee for an upgrade but not subscription. I am quietly hoping that affinity photo (that works quite well as a PS replacement) will ultimately do a catalog type of programme.

Getting into the gass laws again. Warmer would mean higher pressure. Colder less pressure so 'more' vacuum. So if the circuitry measures the pressure, the housing cooling down should not give a false warning, the housing warming up could give a false warning. if the nauticam circuitry is temperature compensated (and this seems to indicate it does), then you might have a slow leak. PS: I also use the sentinel. I've had false warnings with the older version, in a warm pool.

Did you find this link https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Sola-Lights-Tips-and-Troubleshooting is it not by accident in travel mode ? PS: when I had trouble with a LM light, the company was quite responsive so have you contacted them?

I would just swap out a control. Do you really need all of them ? I use the sentinel. https://www.vividhousings.com/ I installed it on the lens release control. I was a bit suspcidious at first, thinking I would need all the controls, but you can use a pen or an old stick from your ice popsicle to release the lens. I know the control probably also controls the focus depth preview, but I have never used that underwater as on the surface it is already so dark.

OK, then it might work, I am probably assuming too much from diving circumstances over here which is dark and cold... I am not a video shooter, so cant comment on the flog and the relative high base ISO.

I dont understand the video question. If your base ISO is already 640, using a ND filter on your light or your lens you will need a higher iso with more noise etc.

For stills ? The camera will see it as natural light and adjust shutter speed (depending on setting), I have no experience with this particular camera. I see the tough has 1/4 up to 1/2000 fast shutter speed. I dont see the f-stop range in the specs. But if the tough can expose on midday in bright sunlight, I am sure it will be able to correct. Are you running into limits with the one light ?

I am guessing that will just use a DX size bit of the FF sensor. A digital crop / zoom. So maybe yes for the field of view, but not with same resolution.

Bought 2 12 inch arms and clamps from Photec (@Photec) aka Mark. All went swimmingly and luckily was posted to my home in the Netherlands just before the transition brexit period ended.

would that not just look better in colour? I dont mind black and white, but that is always what I think firstly.

that one was with the subsee +5 or +10 attached. I should write these things down. Was at yellow submarine I think. Som nice big blobs of coral with quite a few of these in sand

Some from Bonaire (2 years ago). 20180916-IMG_3194 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr 20180917-IMG_3380 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr 20180917-IMG_3361 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr 20180916-IMG_3056 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr 20180917-IMG_3332 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr

I use a permanent travel catalog, made from an emptied copy of my main catalog. When on a trip I import to a collection (eg Bonaire 2020). I backup to separate hard drives. After the trip I first export (the images in the )collection as a catalog and then import that catalog in the main one as you described (including raw files). I think having a permanent (or semi permanent, as i sometimes change settings) is easier, since you can use your import and other presets.