Jump to content

Cerianthus

Member
  • Content Count

    850
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by Cerianthus

  1. Pete, on my Ikelite housing for the 20D (sold now). I had sometimes this trouble. Not with my 'new' 70d housing. There are a couple of things you can try: remove the eye cup from the camera if you use that : it might push the camera slightly forward make sure you use a coin or similar to really secure the camera on the tray you can use the little adjuster screws on the bottom to position the camera. if the control tips inside are worn, you can buy new tips. (or turn them around to expose the fresher site. http://www.ikelite.com/accessories/9249-control-tips.html
  2. It is quite fun, so it is a good choice. There are quite a few operators. I've no idea anymore with what boat I went. Most of them are leaving from the village Seahouses. Since it is northern England, there is no season that will guarantee you flat sees. I went mid September and that was alright. Bring a dry suit. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  3. Nothing to do with the sale, but I really liked the product pictures. Did you just take them on a garden table with some greenery in the background in bright sunshine or was there more trickery (technique) involved? Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  4. just bought your clamps :-). You would not have an extra ULCS clamp lying around or some arms ?
  5. i heard (on the ancient medium of an email list) a tip from the late Jim Church : put a q-tip in your mouth when you are preparing your housing. It will help you not be distracted by talking....
  6. download the DNG editor ffrom adobe. Run the program (no installer). Pick a DNG file with your normal base profile (or export a DNG from one of your normal raws). It will export with your normal camera profile. open the |DNG in the editor. go to the color matrices tab. use the bottom tint slider (white balance calibration) and set it to whatever you need. go to the menu and save the profile. It will automatically select the proper folder for your profile. At the next startup of Lightroom, it will be there.....
  7. backplate (steel with drysuit and mostly with wetsuit as well), aluminium when flying + Wing. Scubapro jetfins with spring straps for drysuit, Seac / generic fins for wetsuit.
  8. Not to say I would do it better but there is a bit of back scatter in the right bottom. And it would be nice to include the whole jelly. For the jelly and diver you could try positioning them at opposite sides of the image or in a diagonal. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  9. a, sorry. I was assuming it works the same way as in DSLR s. There TTL works in M mode.
  10. Would not agree. For rectangular (non fisheye) lenses a larger port diameter will be better. A diopter on the lens might improve sharpness just a bit. Also remember that the lens will focus on the virtual image, which is typically at about 1,5 times the port diameter. Setting the focus to the expected subject distance before diving will not be in focus if you use the distance scale. Also curious why you can't use af, you can use back focus to a specific distance underwater and leave it there Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk
  11. Quite a story Bruce! (Didnt read it all) Welcome back. My and my wife's parents would disown me if we would ride motor cycles. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  12. http://www.ikelite.com/accessories/ports/finder.html Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
  13. so if you want to use TTL : mode switch on TTL light level control dial up and down to perform minor adjustments. AV (aperture priority) is not very useful. If a strobe is used, it either fixes the shutter speed at the sync speed, or it will attempt to adjust the shutter speed to get a normal exposure (which can mean too long exposures. In bright conditions, you might end up with a natural light shot with just a hint of strobe. better to use the manual mode in the camera to have more control over the shutter speed.
  14. Pretty nice Albert. Started to follow you on Flickr as well.
  15. Im not sure I like it. It is missing out on quite a few controls that are available in my 70d housing. (all the top buttons are missing). I also dont see the normal TTL / Manual selector buttons for the strobes.
  16. what lens are you using ? I still have sets of green and blue water magic filters for sigma 15mm (i changed to tokina 10-17mm).
  17. probably not. see the link http://www.magic-filters.com/need.htmland the 3 wreck photos. the idea is that the filters helps to give a more natural distribution over the RGB channels. It removes the (excess of) blue, so the camera will record more equal levels of the colours (closer to the natural white balance).
  18. I just have to re iterate my experience with idas, i wouldnt recommend: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54282&hl=idas&do=findComment&comment=353674 for me, they were even not that cheap. im still using them (I cleaned them thoroughly with vinegar and a ultrasonic bath and changed the orings and then they work ok-ish), because I have to sell the thought of a spending spree on new clamps and arms to my wife :-) i had a play with a friends nauticam arms and they are definitely in a different league then the idas ones. Very smooth movement. But they were quite new....
  19. For the ikelite system, it is important that both the strobe and the housing switch are in manual mode ! (or both in TTL mode) If you leave the housing as is and simply put the strobe in manual, I get black images as well. Also, check the position of the little switch underneath the camera tray (should be on the DS125 / 160 / 161 position) if both TTL and manual give problems, it might be the cord. http://www.ikelite.com/support/faq/cords.html
  20. Hi John, thanks for the answer. I am looking for ulcs ones, so I am no longer interested.
  21. I would go with the stix floats as well. They fit nicely on the ULCS and similar arms. (and weigh almost nothing). I wouldnt be too afraid about extra weight from the lead strips. If the setup is more or less neutral, its all about the balance. If you fit the weights at the underside of the shade the tilt is the largest. (he does use 11,5 oz / more then 300 grams of lead). Probably best to first try with the floats, and then see if the problem is still there...
  22. I dont know what remote slaves Alex uses, but the ikelite ones are quite sensitive. Also possible to use an extension cord to increase the distance. I picked 2 old ones up on ebay . Played around on one dive last year. The regular little bit of cord is about 50-60 cm (2 foot), but you can use an extension. Only works with ikelite strobes though. 20150606-IMG_8890 by Gerard Wijnsma, on Flickr
  23. Ps, obviously one is the male and one the female connector.. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPad met Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...