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About vannar

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel
  • Birthday 04/01/1979

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS 350D
  • Camera Housing
    Sea&Sea DX-350D
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea ys-60
  1. I must say, you havent chosen the easiest motive for your test shots! The 10-22 is superb topside, there is nothing better on a cropsensor camera today. Underwater however I experiensed softness in the corners when I used the lens behind a dome: http://www.vannar.net/uvbilder/vtropiskt/red_leukan.jpg It is still very much usable but beware of the problem... Perhaps the problem is less visible behind the 8ich dome, but the best way of getting ridd of the softness is getting the tokina fisheyezoom! However, if you only want one lens for topside and underwater use the 10-22 is the way to go.
  2. I have the same lens, but I use the focusing ring from the 60mm macro lens. The gear fits pretty well but I also had the gear come off during one dive. Since that dive I use a rubber band (or actually an elastic rope, 3mm thick) that I place in front of the zoomgear on the lens itself, it keeps the lens fixated on right place on the lens and prevents the gear from sliding off...
  3. My experience with less expensive diopters is that they are very thick, there is a possibility that the diopter will show extensive vinjetting at 10mm... I have the same lens and port and experienced the same problem with soft edges, my solution was to invest in the tokina 10-17mm fisheyezoom, with the athena dome and a 22mm extension.
  4. The reason for this confusion is that the computer recognizes the camera as a "digital camera" and not as a digita storage (CF card), there a a couple of diferent protocols that are used. I think that there is a setting in the camera that enables you to change this setting, but I havent bothered changing it since I use the a cardreader.
  5. You dont write where you live, but I guess you live in Europe since you list the prices in euro. You know europe is one market now and the 400d with kitlens can be found in Germany from about €650, the d80 from about €1000 with its kitlens. In uk I have found the d80 from £675 and the 400d from £480
  6. I second desert eagle! Mark, think about this! If you cannot imagine putting in the extra cash for the 400d or the d80 you should choose a digital compact in the upper segment instead of going with an dslr. Image quality is ofcoure not as good with a compact, but you can find a housing for around 200 euros. I have seen a couple of exxelent images taken by compact cameras, especially macro images. Housings for dslrs start at around 1000euros. But you will need ports (atleast 500euro macro + wideangle) strobes (600euro) arms (200euro) + lenses suitable for underwater use (tokina fisheye + macro lens, 450+350euro) Another option is going with a dslr for topside photography and getting a compact to bring with you during the dives.
  7. I am using the (athena) glass dome with the SX extension, and it works great, sharp corners and no vinjetting. The fokus grar for the 60mm macro lens fits with only minor modifications (se separate tread) I also know that zuzo (uwdigitalcamera) in japan have made a custom gear for the 10-17 /Jonas
  8. Well alex! My experience (much less than yours ofcourse) with white balance and temperate waters (Norway) is that it is so much more variable in color and light perception than tropical waters. This makes it much more difficult to guess which setting that gives the best results, It can vary much depending on depth and if your shooting towards and away from the sun... Visibility in Norwegiasn waters can vary from one dive to another on the same day depending on the tide. I have given up the quest for the perfect pictur already in the camera and concentrate on componsition and lighting when underwater, leaving the fiddling with colors untill later... I can understand your point though... The images that I display on my webpage: http://www.vannar.net/?p=cat_vrak Have the following whitebalance settings(from left --> right): 8600 - 6900 - 6650 - ? - 5350. Tint seems to be around +60-80
  9. My tip is to get the Ultralight arm(s) they are much easier to control undereater that the ike and nikv arms... And this is very important. I guess that when yoou shot with your nikonos v you didnt change the position of the strobe that muchb , but with instant feedback you can se how the lighting is on the picture you just took and are able to make corrections for the next one. A 8inc and a 5inc is a good solution.
  10. Here Is yet another angle! I live in Northern Sweden (North of the arctic cirle)! When I decided to take the leap over from a compact to dSLR and started investergating the market I quickly realised that Sweden was to small of a pond for dSLR underwater photo equipment (there are a few small shops, but these keep a very low profile and does not keep these expensive products in stock, Im also not sure about their knowledge about service etc.) So the only reasonable option for me was to look into importing my own equipment. Since Sweden is a part of the European union and importing from another EU country is very easy I first tried to find what I wanted in europe (UK has a few great shops, and there seems to be a few good shops on the EU mainland aswell) I then started researching the global market, starting with the sponsors of this page and I found a few great shops in the US. But then I stubleled over Yuzo´s shop in Japan I realised that it made economic sense to buy Japanese products from Japan. I realize the benefits of supporting your local dealer and that in the long run you would probably benefin from it in many ways. But If your local supplier is located in another county many thousands of kilometers away, I see nothing wrong in trying to find the best price when buying and the expect to have to spend a little time and money the day you need to service or repair your equipment...
  11. Sounds like a real misscalculation by S&S, I have used both the menu and delete buttons on severeal occations during dives! The "inhousing" (heinrich?!) TTL converter can be easily installed in the 350 housing...
  12. The fundamental difference lies in the way the information is recorded, a digital chip instead of a analog film... When using a digitalchip it is absoultely nessecery that all the rays that hits the surface of the chip are absolutely paralell, with film this was not as critical...
  13. I think that the main reason for Nikon not to go with the FF sensor are limitations with the small diameter lens mount they use... Until they discover a whole new way of bending light or invent a sensor that is more forgiving, they are stuck with less than FF sensors... Unless ofcourse they make the switch that Canon did some 20 years ago...
  14. Just remember that the sigma 15mm will not give you 180 degrees on the cropsensor 10d camera. The Canon 10-22 will infact be wider than the sigma on your camera, but Im not sure if this lens will fit on a 10d... Another interesting alternative is The Tokina 10-17mm fisheyezoom I guess the 50mm macro is an cheap alternative, but remember that this lens will not let you closer than 1:2... So if you are interested in small things such as nudies and stuff, I would not recommend this lens... The Efs- 60mm macro is a very competent lens, but again I do not think that ef-s lenses will fit on your camera. This leaves the canon 100mm macro, wich is a superb lens, but perhaps not as suitable in bad visibility as a shorter lens... you also do not have the flexibility of a 50-60mm lens... I would strongly recommend you to buy a flatport for you macro lens (wich ever one you end up with)... In theory I guess you could use a dome with longer lenses but it is very unpractical and you risk scratching the dome everytime you try to get in close for those macro shots... The Flat ports for Ikelite housings are not that expensive... http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_canon.html
  15. Se the related thread: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17551
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