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Everything posted by vkalia

  1. Sorry for the slow reply, had some life+Covid related stuff that kept me busy. I meant that the peaking highlights are very faint sometimes (I was testing in macro mode on land, and i was really struggling to see the peaks at times). Yeah, i did notice that the focus takes ages to move - I was hoping to use AF to get it close, MF to tweak and then do the whole rock-it-back-and-forth to get it right. I dont seem to have an option to boost the peaking color on my EM10Mk3, however. Thanks for the tip on using C-AF. Did you mean automatic focus tracking? That would be a very interesting option but doesnt it require the touchscreen? Edit - C-AF + Tracking apparently does NOT require a touchscreen. Doh. I was convinced it was. That's also something worth trying, I reckon. I just wonder if it will be precise enough to focus on, say, the eyes of an eel as opposed to its mouth.
  2. High frame rates? Is there a way to tweak that to improve AF performance?
  3. Yup, I am happy to report that on an OMG-ABCDAlphabetSoup 10 Mk3, you can use the back button AF approach (AEL/AFL button on mine as well) and set the FN2 button to turn on focus peaking. I have chosen to: - set the focus to Single Shot + MF - For Focus Assist, have turned on both subject zoom and focus peaking. This way, when i press FN2 activate the focus peaking, i can use that to determine focus accuracy (i dont get the subject zoom for MF assist in this case). OTOH, if i press FN2 again to deactivate focus peaking under the normal display, i get the benefit the subject zoom and focus peaking as well. That works great, as i dont always want to zoom in on the subject. This should work really well. The only thing remaining now is being able to see that blessed viewfinder well enough to utilize the focus peaking. It is very faint indeed! Thank you very much for your help, guys - but i am open to more tips and shortcuts, if anyone has suggestions. As we all like photos, here is one from Banda, from a few weeks ago.
  4. Size, mainly. In Asia, airlines are getting quite strict about a 7kg carryon limit and a big DSLR, dome port, etc was getting to be a bit too impractical to cart around.
  5. I am using an EM-10Mk3 - no viewfinder. I didnt really find the EVFs on any of the OMD series to be anything approaching the resolution of a high quality optical finder in low light but that was admittedly a fairly quick glance. As such, I havent bothered putting an external finder on it, and shoot with the LCD. Issue i am having is with the 60mm macro lens - i like to lock focus and then move the camera back and forth till the subject is in focus. That's simply not working. I'll try the focus peaking approach. Also open to other tips/suggestions.
  6. Hello Tim - Thannk you very much: that is very helpful - - these new crop of MLCs have all these wondrous features which i havent even begun to explore. Might be time to correct that, as i sit at home bored out of my mind. Ideally, i need to find a way to get focus peaking to work with the back-button AF on the camera - let me play around with the camera and see. Cheers!
  7. Hi all - Need some advice - after years of shooting with a DSLR with an Inon 45 degree finder attached to it, i have switched to a MFT system: Olympus in a Nauticam. However, i have realized that the screen resolution on the camera is all kinds of crap, and i am not able to judge accurate focus on it: certainly not to the degree i could with an OVF. With my Canon, i used to manually focus and the nice Inon 45 degree finder gave me a fantastic view of what was or was not in focus - to the point that I have been able to manually focus on mating mandarins in near darkness. I knew that to be an issue going into MFT, but figured I could just rely on autofocus. But i have found i cannot. I am going to get a focus gear for the lens and see if that helps, but honestly, given how crappy EVF resolution is, i am not sure that is going to do it. Are there any tips or tricks that help? TIA, Old dog trying to learn new tricks.
  8. Personally, if you can get your trim dialled down properly, it doesnt really matter what you use. I've use traditional jacket-style BCDs, back inflation BCDs and BP/wings, and it hasnt made a difference. Choice of fins is probably a bigger factor than the style of BCD, atleast for my body type.
  9. Thanks! That's good to know. I guess bayonet it is, then.
  10. Chris, I have the EM-10Mk3. Poor battery life compared to a DSLR. Funnily, i was told by the dealer I got my gear from (who is a VERY experienced u/w guy) that the Oly EVF chews up more battery than the LCD.
  11. Inon does have a finder that woks off the EVF. Havent used it yet. As for the LCD - hmm, good question. If your prescription mask lets you see clearly within reading distance, i dont imagine it will be an issue.
  12. I recently switched to Olympus, after flooding my old Canon housing last year. Just got back from a week in Raja Ampat with the new rig and here are my thoughts on the switch: The small size is an absolute winner. And it is a lot easier to manoeuvre the 4/3rd housing in a current. However, I dont like the LCD. With an optical view finder (I had the 45 degree Inon finder on my Aquatica housing for the Canon), I could see the scene and make my own decisions on exposure. The LCD of the Olympus doesnt present a realistic view of what i am shooting, and is affected by its own dyanmic range limitations and that throws me off. Also, the battery life of the 4/3s system is quite poor - I am not a high volume shooter and was able to get 3 dives in fairly easily, but with the Canon, i could go several days before needing to change the batteries. Lastly, trying to judge macro focus on the LCD screen doesnt work so well for me, compared to the optical finder. Honestly, if size/weight/cost were not an issue, I'd still prefer to shoot with a DSLR. But in the real world, the practical advantages of the M43 make it worthwhile for me. (Caveat: i am comparing a system that i have used on land for nearly 20 years, and underwater for 12, with a system that i have taken <1000 photos with. So maybe after i traverse the learning curve, my opinion of the M43 may improve).
  13. Apologies for dropping out of the discussion - had a horrendously long return trip from Raja Ampat (and on my return, discovered that my camera was set on JPEG, not RAW... FML) Makes sense. I wasnt thinking of the 12-40 anyway - if i go with the WWL-1 option, then it is 14-42. Honestly, the versatility of the Zen doesnt hold much appeal to me, nor do i want to replace the 4" dome for my 8mm - i quite like the compact size, after years of pushing the 8" Aquatica dome around). To me, the choice of domes would be contingent on the lens i choose. And based on all i have read here, i am now leaning towards the 14-42+WWL-1. The greater range of focal lengths (if i am willing to faff around with removing the WWL-1 underwater) gives me the versatility i need, and by all accounts, the sharpness is comparable. For those that do own this lens - how much of a pain in the rear is it to take it off underwater? I am not gonna bother with converting it to bayonet mount - at most, would clip a small pouch to my harness and stick it in there when not in use.
  14. An additional data point - if i dont care about the ability to shoot macro vs wideangle on the same dive, but strictly want something for fish potraits and large stuff that doesnt come too close, does that change the equation? TIA!
  15. No, i wont be using this rig on land. This system is exclusively for underwater use. I think mentally, i am struggling with the idea of a relatively inexpensive kit-style lens AND an added optical element as being better than a single, higher-quality lens.
  16. Hi all - Based on the advice here a while back, I finally switched to Nauticam/Olympus, after 12 years of using Aquatica/Canon. I have the Olympus 8mm FE with the 4 dome, and the 60mm macro with the flat port. Body is the EM-10Mk3 for now. But now i miss my Tokina 10-17FE, and am thinking of getting a rectilinear zoom (or something a little less extreme than the FE) for shooting things like sharks, etc. After research, have narrowed it down to the Panasonic 8-18 with the 7 acrylic dome port. I am picking this over the 14-42 / WWL-1 combo mainly because of what I feel would be greater convenience when it comes to travel (lighter for travel). But before i take the plunge, i wanted to ask a few questions: - Is it possible to use zoom the 14-42 to a longer focal length while leaving the WWL-1 on, or is it only optimized for the 28mm focal length? - Is it possible to insert and remove the camera body (OM-D 10Mk3) with the 8-18 attached, or is the lens too thick? Looking at the specs, doesnt seem to be the case, but someone was saying the lens doesnt fit through the port opening of a different body, and i just wanted to make sure. - Any other practical/ergonomic gotchas I need to be aware of? Or anyone feel strongly about getting the 14-42/WWL-1 combo? TIA!
  17. Thanks for that. Re AF switches - I assume you use the direction arrows to move the AF point around. But is it direct access, or do you have to press another button to engage "AF point shift mode" first? (Hope I am phrasing myself coherently. On the road and in time zone hell) Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
  18. Hi guys - Can someone let me know the following about the : - Is it possible to use back button AF on the Nauticam housing for this camera, and if so, is the button at an ergonomically sensible location? - Does the Nauticam housing allow direct movement of the AF point (IE, without needing to press any button) - Any unexpected gotchas or other issues with usability as far as this housing goes? TIA! Sent from my BBF100-6 using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks again, guys - some really useful info there, especially re the fit of the 30mm lens. I am not wedded tot he Oly 30mm, and can happily get the Panasonic, which appears to be a better fit. @ChrisRoss - thanks for those links. Gonna go read them now. @Griff - thanks for that explanation about the trigger. I am a fairly low-volume shooter, so i should be able to get a single day's use out of the battery. Am also going to look into after-market batteries (Wasabi and others usually make options with better-capacity batteries and i have one for my Fuji as well)
  20. A-Ha!!! So I did correctly remember reading that the Inon finder fits the Nauticam. I need to do some digging to figure out whether this is the same 45 degree finder as used on DSLR cases, but with a different mounting kit, or whether it is a different unit (sized differently for ILC housings?). Thanks for that.
  21. Thanks for that idea and also appreciate your point of view, as someone who shoots with DSLRs and ILCs (eg, the battery life issues - hadnt considered that the battery would run out so quickly!). I have to admit, I never looked at the Rebel series of Canon cameras because they dont have 2 separate control dials for changing the 2 exposure parameters. You have to push a button and then turn the dial - and I cannot deal with that. I should look at the newer bodies and see if they have remedied this - if they have, this could be the way to go. That said, as far as housings go, I dont plan to ever get Ikelite. I have seen too many divers at our dive shop have issues with them (servicing them in this part of the world isnt easy) and more importantly, those housings are ergonomic disasters. Clunky and the buttons/levers dont fall where they should. But if there is a metal, ergonomic housing for it, that might be an option especially if the control dial issues are fixed. A couple of clarifications, if i may: - When you say "better trigger on the OM1", what do you mean? Faster response time to take the shoot? Or faster AF? - Re the CMC: I was planning to use the Macro Port 45, with a spacer, and not the Macro Port 65. Would this let me use wet lenses with the 30mm? Because that would make it a truly versatile lens. I have a 2:1 Macromater wet lens permanently attached to my Aquatica macro port (and i mean it - i dont think i'd be able to release the screw now even if i wanted to ) and it is very handy combo to pair with the 50. Something similar with the 30 would be nice as well.
  22. Sorry, i should have been clear- i will be getting the most recent version of either the 5 or 10 series. So EM10 Mk3 or maybe wait for the EM5 Mk3 early next year.
  23. Thank you everyone for the information. @wolfgang, @troprobo, @Architeuthis - thanks for the suggestion of the 12-40/50. That's actually a pretty good idea as well, and you are right, that focal length is probably a little more useful for fish portraits than a 9-18 I'd probably go for the 12-50 lens as it is cheaper and i will be using it stopped down to f8 anyway. And if i go this route, a 60mm macro probably makes most sense as well. My only concern here is that 24mm plus a flat port isnt much of a wide angle at all - if there was a 9/10m to 24/25mm, that would be oh-so-epic. But in the grand scheme of things, this isnt such a big issue as the generalist lens wont get as much use. @ChrisRoss - thanks for that info re the practical side of shooting with the 60mm. With my Canon 100mm, i have an Aquatica focus ring on it and so use MF mostly. Thanks to USM, i can always go to AF if need be but i have rarely needed to. The Sigma 50 i use hunts worse like a starving lion but does give 1:1 so i put up with it - but i wont be upset to see its back. Re camera - I did consider the EM1 but honestly, would prefer a cheaper body. I cut my teeth shooting wildlife with 9AF points, so I dont really need a lot of technology to help me get the shots. I bought a 1DMk2 for wildlife when it came out, and now shoot with a 80D - so I generally prefer not to spend a lot on camera bodies, other than for a sensible interface. That philosophy sort of carries over to underwater as well. In fact, I am hoping that you guys would tell me that the EM10 also allows the same degree of manual controls Also: i did read on Zen's website about the Mk1 vs Mk2 170 port, but i figured the compatibility differences was just a little carelessnes on their part. I didnt realize that same WA port that fits the FE wont fit any of the rectilinear WAs. What I am leaning towards right now is: - 8mm, 4.33" FE port, 60mm, 30mm, 12-50 and the macro port to start with If the 12-50 proves to be insufficient, i can add a 9-18 and the 170 Mk2 port for the generalist use case. However, since i have shot exclusively with a Tokina 10-17FE and a 50 or 100mm macro, I dont think i will need this last combo. As for finders - the Inon cant be installed on the Nauticam (I remember reading somewhere that it could, but 2 separate Nauticam dealers have told me it cannot), so i will have to pony over the $1000 for that. Maybe i will just shoot with the LCD first for a bit and see how i like it. Much obliged for all the info, gents.
  24. Hello Fabio - thanks for that informative answer. That was very useful. So it seems as though i will be able to use the 30mm macro for underwater after all (except when i am going macro-only). That's good to know, especially as i can use the same port for both, with a spacer ring. The viewfinder i am still unsure about. On one hand, there is the temptation to stick with what i know best and what has worked with me for all these years. OTOH, if i am switching to this medium, it makes sense to use the new tech to its fullest (I have no particular sepia-toned love for old school just for the sake of being old-school). And i am not sure how i will adjust to a 5-10 degree finder. The 45 degree makes shooting so comfortable and a massive improvement over the regular VF - but i also assume i can hold this smaller body a bit further out and use the LCD as well. Anyone else switched from DSLR to ILC and care to comment?
  25. Hi everyone - posting here after a long time. I am a long-time Canon/Aquatica user, using the Tokina 10-17FE for wide angle and Sigma 50/Canon 100 for macro, which I have been using mostly for my local reef dives (yay for living in a place with excellent diving). But of late, I have been leading more dive trips and the big, bulky DSLR rig is starting to grate on my nerves. I am looking to get an Olympus setup - 8mm fisheye and 60mm macro. This will solely be for underwater use - i have a full Canon system with a cabinet full of lenses, and a secondary Fuji system for light shooting. I will NOT be using this for any terrestrial photos. I had a few specific questions i wanted to get your opinions on: 1/ I am undecided between the EM5 and EM10 series. I need to try out both housings on my own, but a few things that i consider near-essential for me are: - back button auto focus - ability to shift AF points directly (i'd really prefer not to push any buttons prior to doing that) - ability to change aperture and shutter directly, with 2 separate buttons for it - reasonably fast AF Any feedback on how the 2 bodies compare here? Are these things equally easy to do on both the cameras? 2/ I have been spoiled by the 45 degree Inon finder on my Canon, and am not really a big fan of using the EVF for assessing critical focus. Even on the Fuji, I dont really find the EVF to be as good as an optical finder. If I want to migrate my Inon, I should get the Isotta housing, but i am not sure about the quality of the ports there (or long-term system availability) - or spend extra for the Inon finder. OTOH, if the EVF isnt that great for critical focusing, maybe i should just use the LCD screen instead. Is it possible to do accurate focus checks that way? Or is the EVF (flawed though it is) better? Any feedback on the above, from those of you who have been using it in the field? 3/ I have been using the 50mm Sigma macro lens as my macro/fish portrait lens (switching to a 100mm when i am going to be shooting only macro). So i will be using the 60mm Sigma as my macro-specialty lens. But has anyone used the 30mm macro lens as well? How is that, from a working distance point of view (I suspect you need to get TOO close for it to be really useful for macro work)? 4/ I was leaning towards the 9-18 as my generalist lens, for times when i dont have any specific shooting in mind. The reason for this - i could get a Zen 170 dome cover, and use it with both this lens as well as the 8mm Olympus. So saves carrying multiple ports when i travel. Sound plan or would i better off getting the 4,33" port for the fisheye, and a separate port for the 9-18? Any other tips or suggestions re things to keep in mind - something i may not have considered, but which would one would only become aware of after using the system? TIA!
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