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Wapiti last won the day on June 27 2018

Wapiti had the most liked content!

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15 Good

About Wapiti

  • Rank
    Moray Eel

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus E-M1
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea
  1. I'm intrigued by this lens for underwater use. Here's why: I currently shoot an M1 with a 170mm Inon dome. With a 2" extension, that dome works with the Panasonic 8-18, Olympus 12-40, and Olympus 7-14 2.8. Possibly more, but those are what I can personally confirm. When I remove the 2" extension, the Olympus 8mm works great. My thinking is that the the 12-45 may- possibly-might just work in the dome without the extension as well. IF that also holds true for the upcoming 8-25 Olympus lens, then that could simplify travel and reduce monkeying around with my port. There's no need for f2.8 underwater, and the price really isn't that bad. For the OP, the 12-45 would give them the ability to shoot a Pro zoom lens in a Pen-style housing. As far as a zoom gear, I suggest reaching out to Deepshots to see if they have anything on the horizon.
  2. Any of the E-M1's will have better C-AF performance the the M5II (or the g7). As Chris said, S-AF is the way to go for your combo underwater. I used the 9-18 behind a flat port for a few months, and I don't really remember a lot of issues with S-AF and missed focus. It's not the fastest focusing lens out there, so I agree with others that getting the right release priority should help. That said- the Zen dome port is cheap and really improves the usability of the lens. The port system of the Oly housing for the M5II is pretty limiting. Great for macro, but if you shoot rectilinear wide angle the M1 mk 1 with a bigger dome and better lenses (12-40, 7-14, 8-18) doesn't cost that much more in the scheme of things and will get you better results. Also, if you're ok with a fisheye you can shoot the Oly 8mm in your housing with a different port.
  3. Bummer- I've never had a problem with the ergonomics on Oly M43 housings, and I'm in dry gloves. Half the price (or less), lighter weight, plenty of similarly cheaper/lighter ports- that's pretty compelling, especially for my diving (a good mix of rugged shore entries and warm water travel).
  4. This is now the 3rd OMD release without a housing from Olympus; kind of a bummer as their housings were a nice economical alternative to Nauticam (even more so when factoring in ports).
  5. I haven't even thought about taking my 60mm underwater since I got the Olympus 30mm; it's much more flexible for dives with varying sizes of critters. If you know you're going for super macro, the 60 is the only way to go but otherwise I find the 30mm much easier to use. One other thought- the Olympus 12-40 has close focus capabilities, and it's a great generalist lens that does pretty darn good for smaller things. I currently shoot it behind a 170mm dome to take advantage of the wide end, but I initially shot it behind the Olympus PPO-E02 flat port from the old 4/3 system. While cheaper than anything similar from Nauticam, it is still adaptable to their housings. The 60mm works well in that port, and Reef Wreck and Critter can sell you a swing away diopter holder as well. I didn't do a whole lot of shooting with a diopter, but I did do enough to know that the 12-40 works great in that port at the long end with a diopter (see example slug photo).
  6. I used to have the 7-14, but sold it to get the Panasonic 8-18; I'm happy I did as the Panny has a more useful range underwater, plus it's a lot more practical topside. Both are / were fine in my 170mm Inon dome / M1/Oly housing. All that said, I rarely go for the 8-18 as I use the 12-40 for almost all my diving. It's typically wide enough, and the ability to get near-macro shots at 40mm is pretty handy. It's a great generalist option, and it accounts for probably 75% of my underwater photos- the rest being some combination of the 8-18, Oly 30mm (in the Olympus macro port), and Oly 8mm (in the same Inon dome, just without the 2" extension needed for the zooms). If your dives are like a box of chocolates and you never know what you're going to get, the 12-40 is the way to go.
  7. I use a similar Cetacea lanyard, but mine has a regular bolt snap. Apparently, it's only available through Optical Ocean: https://www.opticaloceansales.com/coiled-webbing-lanyard-bolt-snap.html In addition, I installed a triple arm clamp on each side of my two-arm system; I then installed a split ring and small shackle into the empty position on each side and use a double ender bolt snap between them as a carry handle. The extra bolt snap also gives me the ability to secure the camera rig tighter to my body if necessary. I could make do without the shackles, but it's always nice to have a couple of extra attachment doo-hickeys around divers (just in case).
  8. After the long soak mentioned by taydahay, try lubing everything according to the advice on this link from Reef Wreck and Critter: http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/underwater-camera-housing-maintenance.html ..I do this once or twice a year, and I'm sure it contributes to the good luck I've had with Olympus housings.
  9. Resurrecting this thread as I'd like to find a trigger for my M1 in the Olympus housing. Not liking the info about poor build quality, especially at the price point. Anyone else using this? Any other alternatives out there?
  10. Deepshots makes a zoom gear for use with this lens. I bought a different gear from them, and I'm happy with the product. https://www.deepshots.co.uk/collections/gears-for-olympus-and-panasonic/products/deepshots-panasonic-7-14-zoom-gear
  11. I've got the M1 mk1 in an Oly housing, but the following info is the same for the mkII. I use an Inon 170mm dome which works well with the 12-40, Oly 7-14, Panasonic 8-18, and the Oly 8mm fisheye. The 3 zooms require a 2" extension, which you would remove for the fisheye. I'm happy with the results, and I ended up selling the Oly 7-14 in favor of the P8-18. It's better in the dome, and much more useful topside because of the ability to use filters. In a pinch, the 60mm macro will work in the dome if you really want to travel light. In my case, I bought the Oly macro port and I now tend to use the 30mm macro over the 60mm because of the FOV and the fact that it's a little easier to use in surge.
  12. Wild guess here, but the M1mkII has focus distance limit section in the menu. Maybe you somehow have that engaged, and it's overriding the lens? If that's not it, it's most likely a lens issue. Can you borrow another copy of the lens from someone else?
  13. With my E-M1 mkI and Olympus housing (same port system as the mkII), I use this Inon port: http://www.divervision.com/inon-dome-port-olympus-with-protector-ii-set-for-zuiko-digital-ed-8mm-f3.5-fisheye-456212143338.html For use in the Olympus OMD housings, you will need the PAD-EP08 adapter. With just the adapter, you can use the Olympus 8mm Pro fisheye and a few other smaller wider lenses (I may try the Panasonic-Leica 15mm lens at some point). Add a 2" Olympus extension like this one: https://www.adorama.com/iompere02.html ...and you can use the Olympus 7-14 Pro, Olympus 12-40 Pro, and the Panasonic 8-18. I have successfully used all three lenses with this combination. You can also use 2 1" extensions if they're easier to find, but that gives you one more o-ring to worry about. The 60mm macro will also work with the dome and 2" extension, but of course it's not ideal. In my case, I travel with the Inon dome and the Olympus macro port: https://www.adorama.com/iomppoep03.html ...with that port, I now prefer to use the Olympus 30mm macro as I think it's a little bit more useful underwater unless you're shooting for really tiny things. My favorite combination is the 12-40 and the Inon 170mm dome. I've also used the 12-40 with the Olympus PPO-E02 flat port, which is nice on the 40mm end but not so good on the 12mm end. One good thing about it is that you can use a swing away wet lens adapter for macro stuff, but I'd still rather use the Inon dome and just crop for small things.
  14. I currently shoot the PL 8-18 as it's juuuust long enough for fish portraits underwater, yet plenty wide enough for most things above and below the surface (plus, it takes filters). M43 has plenty of choices, and I think this 10-25 will be more useful topside as the wide aperture is not important underwater.
  15. Interested, but I think it would be tough to get it into a port. The 77mm front filter diameter is pretty darn big; add in the length and it's probably a no-go. I still plan on keeping an eye on it, as it might be possible to fit it into my Inon dome with enough extensions (assuming the optics and close focus ability make it usable under water).
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