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Wapiti

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Wapiti last won the day on June 27 2018

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About Wapiti

  • Rank
    Moray Eel

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus E-M1
  • Camera Housing
    Oly
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea
  1. I used to have the 7-14, but sold it to get the Panasonic 8-18; I'm happy I did as the Panny has a more useful range underwater, plus it's a lot more practical topside. Both are / were fine in my 170mm Inon dome / M1/Oly housing. All that said, I rarely go for the 8-18 as I use the 12-40 for almost all my diving. It's typically wide enough, and the ability to get near-macro shots at 40mm is pretty handy. It's a great generalist option, and it accounts for probably 75% of my underwater photos- the rest being some combination of the 8-18, Oly 30mm (in the Olympus macro port), and Oly 8mm (in the same Inon dome, just without the 2" extension needed for the zooms). If your dives are like a box of chocolates and you never know what you're going to get, the 12-40 is the way to go.
  2. I use a similar Cetacea lanyard, but mine has a regular bolt snap. Apparently, it's only available through Optical Ocean: https://www.opticaloceansales.com/coiled-webbing-lanyard-bolt-snap.html In addition, I installed a triple arm clamp on each side of my two-arm system; I then installed a split ring and small shackle into the empty position on each side and use a double ender bolt snap between them as a carry handle. The extra bolt snap also gives me the ability to secure the camera rig tighter to my body if necessary. I could make do without the shackles, but it's always nice to have a couple of extra attachment doo-hickeys around divers (just in case).
  3. After the long soak mentioned by taydahay, try lubing everything according to the advice on this link from Reef Wreck and Critter: http://www.reefwreckandcritter.com/underwater-camera-housing-maintenance.html ..I do this once or twice a year, and I'm sure it contributes to the good luck I've had with Olympus housings.
  4. Resurrecting this thread as I'd like to find a trigger for my M1 in the Olympus housing. Not liking the info about poor build quality, especially at the price point. Anyone else using this? Any other alternatives out there?
  5. Deepshots makes a zoom gear for use with this lens. I bought a different gear from them, and I'm happy with the product. https://www.deepshots.co.uk/collections/gears-for-olympus-and-panasonic/products/deepshots-panasonic-7-14-zoom-gear
  6. I've got the M1 mk1 in an Oly housing, but the following info is the same for the mkII. I use an Inon 170mm dome which works well with the 12-40, Oly 7-14, Panasonic 8-18, and the Oly 8mm fisheye. The 3 zooms require a 2" extension, which you would remove for the fisheye. I'm happy with the results, and I ended up selling the Oly 7-14 in favor of the P8-18. It's better in the dome, and much more useful topside because of the ability to use filters. In a pinch, the 60mm macro will work in the dome if you really want to travel light. In my case, I bought the Oly macro port and I now tend to use the 30mm macro over the 60mm because of the FOV and the fact that it's a little easier to use in surge.
  7. Wild guess here, but the M1mkII has focus distance limit section in the menu. Maybe you somehow have that engaged, and it's overriding the lens? If that's not it, it's most likely a lens issue. Can you borrow another copy of the lens from someone else?
  8. With my E-M1 mkI and Olympus housing (same port system as the mkII), I use this Inon port: http://www.divervision.com/inon-dome-port-olympus-with-protector-ii-set-for-zuiko-digital-ed-8mm-f3.5-fisheye-456212143338.html For use in the Olympus OMD housings, you will need the PAD-EP08 adapter. With just the adapter, you can use the Olympus 8mm Pro fisheye and a few other smaller wider lenses (I may try the Panasonic-Leica 15mm lens at some point). Add a 2" Olympus extension like this one: https://www.adorama.com/iompere02.html ...and you can use the Olympus 7-14 Pro, Olympus 12-40 Pro, and the Panasonic 8-18. I have successfully used all three lenses with this combination. You can also use 2 1" extensions if they're easier to find, but that gives you one more o-ring to worry about. The 60mm macro will also work with the dome and 2" extension, but of course it's not ideal. In my case, I travel with the Inon dome and the Olympus macro port: https://www.adorama.com/iomppoep03.html ...with that port, I now prefer to use the Olympus 30mm macro as I think it's a little bit more useful underwater unless you're shooting for really tiny things. My favorite combination is the 12-40 and the Inon 170mm dome. I've also used the 12-40 with the Olympus PPO-E02 flat port, which is nice on the 40mm end but not so good on the 12mm end. One good thing about it is that you can use a swing away wet lens adapter for macro stuff, but I'd still rather use the Inon dome and just crop for small things.
  9. I currently shoot the PL 8-18 as it's juuuust long enough for fish portraits underwater, yet plenty wide enough for most things above and below the surface (plus, it takes filters). M43 has plenty of choices, and I think this 10-25 will be more useful topside as the wide aperture is not important underwater.
  10. Interested, but I think it would be tough to get it into a port. The 77mm front filter diameter is pretty darn big; add in the length and it's probably a no-go. I still plan on keeping an eye on it, as it might be possible to fit it into my Inon dome with enough extensions (assuming the optics and close focus ability make it usable under water).
  11. In my case, I use an Olympus housing and an Inon 170mm dome designed for the old 4/3 system with the 12-40 (with a 2" extension and a port adapter to go from the old 4/3 ports to the new OMD housings) and the Oly 8mm FE (no extension, but with the port adapter). You can adapt that dome to Nauticam, but I'm not sure where the extension rings will go. It's worth looking into as that dome port is about 600 bucks- a lot cheaper than other glass domes. It also works with my Panasonic 8-18, and I used it in the past with an Olympus 7-14 Pro lens. For macro, I use the Olympus PPO-EP03 port for both the 30mm and 60mm lenses. That gives me 2 ports for everything; I assume you could find a similar macro solution for Nauticam, but I mention that as more of a proof of concept as I don't know exactly what that would look like for you.
  12. This is the Inon 170mm dome I use: http://www.divervision.com/inon-dome-port-olympus-with-protector-ii-set-for-zuiko-digital-ed-8mm-f3.5-fisheye-456212143338.html?search=inon%20dome%20olympus I don't know what extension rings are necessary to use this in the Nauticam ecosystem; for my Olympus M1 housing I need a PAD EP-08 adapter and a 2" extension ring for the Panasonic 8-18, Oly 12-40, and Oly 7-14. 2" also works with the 60mm macro, but of course you're better off with a dedicated macro port. For my housing, I remove the 2" extension and use just the dome and the PAD EP-08 adapter for the Olympus Pro 8mm fisheye. For what it's worth, the Olympus housings for the original M5 and both M1 models can take the camera body + Oly 7-14 from the rear (like god intended) instead of having to install the lens from the front as you have to do with the Nauticam housings.
  13. I've been shooting M4/3 underwater for a while now, and I'm happy to share some of my mistakes. First off? The 12-50. The image quality isn't as good as you would expect after having to pay to port it, and that's coming from a guy with an Oly housing. For what Nauticam wants to make the macro work, you're much better off starting with the 12-40- I wish I would have bought my second general purpose lens first, if that makes sense. You can adapt the older 4/3 ports to Nauticam, which gives you some reasonably priced options. There's a flat port (lousy for wide angle, but great for closeups, especially since you can use a swing away diopter holder) and either the Olympus 170mm dome (very hard to find and expensive) or the Inon 170mm dome (less than 600 bucks, and it's glass). I've found that shooting through the dome and cropping yields a better macro result than the 12-50 while still leaving you some ability to capture wide angle scenes. The 60mm is great, but the Olympus 30mm gives it a good run for the money for underwater stuff and is now my macro choice because of it's flexibility and ease of use. If you're shooting things half an inch or less, than stick with the 60. Last year's Black Friday deals from Olympus had the 30mm going for $100- pretty hard to beat that. I had the Olympus 7-14, but sold it in favor of the Panasonic-Leica 8-18. It features a better range underwater plus the ability to use filters topside. It also works in the same dome as the 12-40. I use the Inon 170mm dome, and the Oly 8mm also works great in that, just without the extension ring you'll need for the zooms.
  14. I agree with Chris- the 12-40 is a better choice for what you want to accomplish as far as macro. You can use the Inon dome with the Pro zooms (I lump the 8-18 into that category as well) and the 8mm FE. You'll need the PAD-EP08 port adapter to use any of the old 4/3 ports with the OMD housings. The Oly 8mm requires just the port adapter, but the Pro zooms need 2" of extension. You can accomplish this with a single 2" extension ring (PER-E02) or two 1" rings (PER-E01). The 1" ring is easier to find, but the 2" ring is worth searching for as it means one less o-ring to worry about. Besides being a one port solution, the advantage of the Inon dome with the 8mm FE is better split shots than the mini domes. If you went with the 8-18 or the Oly 7-14, you would use the exact same set up as the 12-40: 2" extension and EP-08 port adapter. The Inon dome is a pretty nice solution, and much cheaper than other big glass domes.
  15. You summed up the options pretty well. I also use to dive with the Zen 100 dome (with the same lenses you have) but upgraded to the Inon 170 with my M1mkI and Oly housing. I typically shoot the 12-40 behind the dome, but also use the PL 8-18 or Oly 8mm FE (and have used the Oly 7-14 in the past). The 60mm works fine behind the dome, but you of course loose quite a bit of magnification. Although I don't have one myself, I would say your TG5 would be a better macro option than a domed 60. However- you can focus right up to the glass with the 12-40, and it's sharp enough to handle a fair amount of cropping. Since I'm waiting for dinner to cook and have nothing better to do, I'll offer a couple of other opinions. I find myself rarely using the 8mm FE underwater because taking the 2" extension ring off and on for the zooms is a real pain in the ass and generally requires the use of a strap wrench or two. Corner sharpness of the 8-18 is better than the 7-14, and although I don't miss the extra width, I sure value the extra 4mm on the long end. The ability to use filters is great for topside, and I'm super happy all around that I made the switch. In my case, I have the 8mm for astro so if it's an either/or thing your results may vary. Still, I end up using the 12-40 most of all. I know you said you don't want to deal with port changes on a boat, but just throwing this out there...On my most recent live aboard trip, I switched back and forth between the dome and the Olympus macro port between dives. Changing ports wasn't too big of a deal, and it opened up the ability to use the excellent (and cheap) Oly 30mm macro. We drove from home to the dock, so I understand that adding a port is a completely different deal for air travel. That said, the port itself isn't a whole lot bigger than one of the Pro zooms. Good luck- any of the wide options you're considering are better than the 9-18.
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