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About Tbar58

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  1. Hi just wondering if this is still available?
  2. I take the o-ring out and grease every time I change the batteries with Inon D200/Z240 strobes. Also you may find these O-rings expand over time so need replacing. I do the same for the housing when the camera or port is changed. I am happy to ensure the whole o-ring is very light greased all over, and particularly to feel for nicks or grit that cannot be seen from the 'outside'. Always done it this way since managing my Nikonus V. I do agree with divengolf, if it works for you then that's a good method to follow.
  3. I have had problems get a fibre cable to be consistent with a POS and Inon strobe. Things I found: - the fibre needs to have good 'clean' ends - the alignment needs to be positive, that is the fibre needs to point at the light/sensor capture maximum light and direct this to the sensor. - the fibre needs to be firmly held (so it says in optimal position) - camera strobe needs to be 'bright', I wouldn't turn the flash down as some cameras allow. I tried three alternate fibres with different cap ends only one works well.
  4. I use 2 Inon strobes (D2000, Z240) on a Nauticam Nex5. I only use TTL. I use optical fibre link. At times they will be to bright (close-up) or dull (wider angel/distance), I then adjust the aperture. I tend to keep a fixed shutter speed (as fast as I can) to stop any motion blur. I consider the aperture and hence depth of field, then shutter. I would consider a dive light for photos. It would need to provide a very even and wide spread of light, you will still have to adjust speed/aperture for the consistent light. The TTL allows the camera to have a high degree of control over the strobe.
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