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giffenk

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giffenk last won the day on July 21

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About giffenk

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  1. Sea & Sea YS Arm VII had an oring embedded in the arm around the bolt hole. The oring gave a snug fit in the slot and provided friction so that you did not need to over tighten the bolt.
  2. https://www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/looking-for-s-s-ys-01-tech-repair-manual.557215/
  3. Every S&S bulkhead I have seen is the same internal diameter. They all accept a Nikonos cable. There are more than 1 mounting scheme. Post a pic of the bulkhead connector.
  4. Maybe I am an under achiever? After my floods I swished in some freshish water from the the mask rinse bucket, left the open strobe in the sun for a few hours and tossed in a fresh set of batteries for the afternoon dive. That strobe is still going strong. I have other unflooded strobes that are now unfunctional (internal component burn, intermittent power). A battery flood is generally 4 lost batteries and a bit of cleaning...
  5. Fresh water bath? Lube? Which strobe manufacture recommends this? The inner Inon battery cap (and Sea&Sea cap) has metal spring terminals to interconnect the batteries. To prevent corrosion, after diving in salt water they need to be rinsed in fresh water, dried and lubricated.
  6. I guess I should clarify my comment about continuing to work for a short while. The batteries continued to work for a short while during the same dive AFTER I noticed the bubbles coming out of the battery compartment. It was mid dive when I saw the bubbles and I realized that I had a flood. The strobe was still working at that point. But it was too late to save the batteries as it would have taken at least 5 to 10 minutes to get back to the boat. So I just carried on. Once the strobe stopped working I switched it off and went with 1 strobe for the rest of the dive. I did consider opening the strobe underwater to stop the chemical reaction, but that meant I would either be dumping the batteries in the Bonaire marine park or carrying them around for another 30 minutes.
  7. P.S. Do you have the flooded D2000 in your possession? If so please remove the posts and check for orings....
  8. Battery compartment floods WILL NOT affect the internals of a properly maintained Sea & Sea strobe. The battery posts include sealing orings on the shaft of the post. I would assume Inon is clever enough to follow a similar design for their battery compartment? This is not rocket science. They are smart enough to properly seal all of the switch shafts which involve a dynamic turning seal. Sealing the static battery post is trivial. These are 2 companies with decades of waterproof design experience. I think they know their stuff better than any of us. I also think it makes sense that each of us educate ourselves a bit more before we start making bogus claims. A simple way to do that is to ask questions first... Known facts: 1) flooded eneloops create gas 2) battery compartments on well designed strobes are sealed from the strobe internals. Cheers...
  9. This experiment has already been done multiple times (generally never on purpose). You already have the reports from 2 of them. Flooded eneloops produce gas. Known fact.
  10. When flooded with warm Bonaire salt water, black eneloops do produce gas, at least mine did. Amazingly, they also continue to work for a short while afterwards.
  11. http://www.ti-leidland.no/en/blog/46-scubadiving/124-my-flooded-sea-sea-strobe Some pics of a disassembled battery cap
  12. You need to look closer. "Over pressure relief valve". http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/strobe/speclist/a.html
  13. Sea & Sea pressure release valve is built into the battery door cap. https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/1999/cpsc-sea-sea-underwater-photography-recall-underwater-strobes
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