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KeithG

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Everything posted by KeithG

  1. Could be an Arrow Blenny? They hide in holes and do not retreat like a pikeblenny does.
  2. The "because" is actually fairly interesting? Strobes that support specific camera manufacturers provide that support via a wired hot shoe connection that allows the camera computer to talk digitally to the strobe computer. Different camera manufacturers developed their own proprietary flash protocol: Canon protocol is called E-TTL, Nikon is called i-TTL, Olympus/Panasonic is called ???. They are all different and incompatible with each other. Firing the flash in this model is fairly simple: - the camera instructs the strobe to preflash at a defined power setting - the camera calculates how much power is needed based upon the light detected - the camera tells the strobe how much power is required - the camera then instructs the strobe to fire Minus the manufacturer specific wired cable you must resort to using your strobe as an "optical remote" strobe. Firing the flash in this model is more of a "follow the leader" and hope for the best: - the camera fires it's onboard flash (the preflash), hoping that the remote strobe will follow suit - the camera calculate show much power is needed based upon the light detected - the camera then fires it's onboard flash for the calculated duration, hoping that the remote strobe will closely follow suit Cameras without an onboard flash require the use of a hot shoe optical trigger that takes the place of the onboard flash. To further complicate the picture, some camera / flash combos support an optical (as opposed to electrical) trigger protocol. The Olympus RC mode is an example of this. The UFL-2 and UFL-3 strobes support Olympus optical RC mode.
  3. Roatan or Utilla? Put it on a shelf. We could drop by some time when this stuff is over...
  4. I do not have one of these so can only conjecture... It is not a TTL nor a MANUAL strobe. From the manual it appears to be "pseudo ttl" i.e. "auto". What camera settings are you using? I am unsure what S&S thinks auto means, but I am interested as I have a few other S&S auto strobes in a drawer. I thought they might be TTL as they do not have a control knob? From my reading of the manual it seems like this strobe is designed to mimic the aperature setting of your camera... Worst case I might take it off your hands for shipping (if shipping is cheap ish....) Cheers
  5. Can you confirm the strobe model? From your description of the controls it sounds like you have a YS90Auto. Based on your description it appears to be working correctly. YS90auto is not capable of TTL as an optical slave.
  6. Does anyone know what is "new" about the YS03 Solis? (
  7. As hinted above, the YS 25dx is a manual only strobe. It is "digital ready" in that it has a control that allows you to manually select how many preflashes your camera produces. So it can be configured to fire reliably, but it will always produce the same amount of light, regardless of the TTL needs of your current shot. This is likely to greatly confuse your camera as (I strongly believe) it will not preflash and then provide extra light during the real exposure.
  8. Which manual power level of the sb-105 have you seen this behavior?
  9. Do you have a reference that indicates the G1X does not preflash? To my knowledge that would be a unique feature for digital cameras.
  10. Yes the SB-105 can function as a manual optical slave. No TTL available in this mode. On slave setting the strobe will dump full, 1/4 or 1/16 of full power (depending upon the switch setting) any time it is triggered.
  11. Historical note: YS-D1 was several generations into S&S support for digital cameras. YS90DX suppported preflash. As did the later YS110 and YS110a. There were a bunch of other strobes such as YS55, YS27DX, YS25DX and YS15Auto that all supported digital camera preflash. I am unsure of the release order of these, but the YS-D1 is the most recent of the models I mention. I believe YS-D1 was released around 2012 while YS110 was 2006ish.
  12. This IS possible, but only if you use a TTL converter. You need a blob to covert the digital flash protocol produced by your camera into the analog protocol understood by the flash.
  13. Agreed. Looks like a retracted worm, although not a Christmas tree worm since their base looks different. It may be hard to identify which worm since most worm pics online only show the extended creature. Search for feather and fan worms to see some images of the full creature.
  14. Sea & Sea YS Arm VII had an oring embedded in the arm around the bolt hole. The oring gave a snug fit in the slot and provided friction so that you did not need to over tighten the bolt.
  15. https://www.scubaboard.com/community/threads/looking-for-s-s-ys-01-tech-repair-manual.557215/
  16. Every S&S bulkhead I have seen is the same internal diameter. They all accept a Nikonos cable. There are more than 1 mounting scheme. Post a pic of the bulkhead connector.
  17. Maybe I am an under achiever? After my floods I swished in some freshish water from the the mask rinse bucket, left the open strobe in the sun for a few hours and tossed in a fresh set of batteries for the afternoon dive. That strobe is still going strong. I have other unflooded strobes that are now unfunctional (internal component burn, intermittent power). A battery flood is generally 4 lost batteries and a bit of cleaning...
  18. Fresh water bath? Lube? Which strobe manufacture recommends this? The inner Inon battery cap (and Sea&Sea cap) has metal spring terminals to interconnect the batteries. To prevent corrosion, after diving in salt water they need to be rinsed in fresh water, dried and lubricated.
  19. I guess I should clarify my comment about continuing to work for a short while. The batteries continued to work for a short while during the same dive AFTER I noticed the bubbles coming out of the battery compartment. It was mid dive when I saw the bubbles and I realized that I had a flood. The strobe was still working at that point. But it was too late to save the batteries as it would have taken at least 5 to 10 minutes to get back to the boat. So I just carried on. Once the strobe stopped working I switched it off and went with 1 strobe for the rest of the dive. I did consider opening the strobe underwater to stop the chemical reaction, but that meant I would either be dumping the batteries in the Bonaire marine park or carrying them around for another 30 minutes.
  20. P.S. Do you have the flooded D2000 in your possession? If so please remove the posts and check for orings....
  21. Battery compartment floods WILL NOT affect the internals of a properly maintained Sea & Sea strobe. The battery posts include sealing orings on the shaft of the post. I would assume Inon is clever enough to follow a similar design for their battery compartment? This is not rocket science. They are smart enough to properly seal all of the switch shafts which involve a dynamic turning seal. Sealing the static battery post is trivial. These are 2 companies with decades of waterproof design experience. I think they know their stuff better than any of us. I also think it makes sense that each of us educate ourselves a bit more before we start making bogus claims. A simple way to do that is to ask questions first... Known facts: 1) flooded eneloops create gas 2) battery compartments on well designed strobes are sealed from the strobe internals. Cheers...
  22. This experiment has already been done multiple times (generally never on purpose). You already have the reports from 2 of them. Flooded eneloops produce gas. Known fact.
  23. When flooded with warm Bonaire salt water, black eneloops do produce gas, at least mine did. Amazingly, they also continue to work for a short while afterwards.
  24. http://www.ti-leidland.no/en/blog/46-scubadiving/124-my-flooded-sea-sea-strobe Some pics of a disassembled battery cap
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