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About imasleeper

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  1. It is indeed a larval lobster. A bit unusual to see it floating in the soup without riding on something. If you like to see more of these and other unusual larval creatures I suggest contacting Jack's Diving Locker in Kona, HI. They specialize in this sort of thing. Imasleeper
  2. Sorry this does not make any difference with the 1DsMkII. Do you think this will convince my wife to let me upgrade to a 1DsMKIV? ;-) imasleeper
  3. "I just tried the lens with Sigma APO 1.4 TC and it works fine without fluttering or noises. Seems the Sigma is actually better quality than the Kenko which sucks cos now I have to buy another set of TC. " by Drew Based on this post I purchased the Sigma APO 1.4 TC. Unfortunately, when used with a 1DsMkII and the 100mm 2.8L Macro IS, the Autufocus still flutters and has significant issues with locking on. So this is not the answer for those of us using a 1DsMkII. Kenko has recently updated their teleconverters. While not yet available there is a possibility these will work. Imasleeper
  4. I have used all of the above lens with a 1dsMKII. If I could only use one it would be the 24mm 1.4. The center is tack sharp, and overall there is great color and contast. Behind a domeport, I can't really say the new version is any better than the old as both are fine lens. The corner performance using a 500d diopter and a subal FE2 domeport is excellent, much better than either of the zooms. There is no need to crop. With the above zooms I have noted a very slight amount of vignetting at the close end of the zooms. This goes away as you approach 20mm. In choosing one lens over another, the real issue is cost! The new 1.4mm and the 16-35mm are expensive. My work-around is to rent the lens. This strategy has allowed me to avoid purchasing what I consider to be a dog for UW work-the 14mm. imasleeper
  5. Just a couple of comments that you may or may not find helpful. I have used the older 100mm f2.8 with my 1dsmkII in a subal housing extensively. Recently I purchased the new IS version and have just returned from Fiji where I had an opportunity to put the new lens through its paces. Please remember this is just my opinion based on real world experience and should not be viewed as true lab testing. The new lens fits in my Subal 120mm flat port just fine. Whether it fits in an ikelite rig should be easy to find out. It is sharper than the older lens, not dramatically so, but definitely sharper. I presume this is due to the IS. The contrast and color is excellent, but so was the older version. It requires a 67mm adapter. The older lens used a 58mm which means you will need to purchase different diopters for the new lens. Also canon does not make a 67mm diopter which means you have to use a 67 to 72mm adapter or use third party diopters. Tamron and Kenko Teleconverters do not work with the new IS version! The autofocus will flutter in and out of focus. Canon teleconverters will not fit, period. Tamron and Kenko teleconverters work just fine with the older 100mm. Bottom line is that I really like the new 100mm. I think the IS works very well and adds noticeably to the crispness. My work around for not being able to use a teleconverter is to use diopters, both dry and wet versions. imasleeper
  6. Yup! Turning off the IS did not make any difference. And when you think about it if one has to turn off the IS to get the TC's to work, it kind of defeats the purpose of upgrading or buying this lens if one is a dedicated TC user. imasleeper
  7. Just received the new Canon 100mm 2.8L Macro IS lens. With my 1Ds MKII, the focus on my copy is fast and accurate. However when paired with either a Kenko 300 pro 1.4 tele or a tamron 1.4 tele the autofocus has huge problems locking on. It nearly continuously flutters making these pairings completely useless! Auto servo or single shot settings does nothing to improve the autofocus lock. Neither does changing the focus setting to a single point. Most likely the Kenko and tamron tele's will require an update in order to function properly with this particular lens. As many readers will know, both of these tele's work very well with the original 100mm 2.8 macro. I leave for Fiji on Saturday where I plan on using the new lens. However I will use diopters (internal and external) for close up work. I will try and post my impressions on the difference between this lens and the old version when I get back. imasleeper
  8. I use an ikelite dome port cover for my FE2. It fits very well. I use an ikelite cover for the flat lens port as well. imasleeper
  9. I have used the 24-70mm f/2.8 lens UW. With a 1Ds MkII in a Subal housing, I got my best results with the recommended 100mm ext tube, FE2 and a 500D diopter and an f stop > 9. With this setup you can shoot WA with a touch of softness in the extreme corners and "not too shy" creatures down to about 2" on the same dive. One has to recognized the tradeoffs when using this type of lens as it is a good lens, but not the best for either extreme WA nor extreme macro. I like it for bigger creatures or when I want a lens that covers most of the bases. For straight WA work, I like using either the 15FE with a 1.4 teleconverter, or for rectilinear WA the new 24mm f/1.4 II with a 500D diopter. Either of these two setups will provide extremely sharp centers and especially with the 24mm very sharp corners. I do not like the canon 14mm II. The 16-35mm II is OK. For straight Macro work, as others have stated the 100mm macro is very good! I especially like it with a 1.4 tele and a wet diopter when I want to shoot something really small-----think dwarf seahorses. Canon has a new version of the 100mm coming out with IS so this might be something you may wish to explore. For Nudis, this is what I would use. Have you considered getting a rental? FWIW I also use a G9 UW. And while it is a nice camera, and I like it for what it is. It's not as good as the above setups. imasleeper
  10. For Sale: A Subal CD1 housing for Canon 1ds,1dsmkII,1d,1dmkII. It comes with a GS 180 viewfinder,a $1200+ add on, and nikonos bulkheads, but no ports. I bought this housing, used, for my daughter, expecting that she would be able to put it to use. But plans have changed and she no longer needs it. I already own one and do not need a spare. Asking $1500 obo, plus shipping. Paypal preferred. If you have any questions please email me at: imasleeper@aol.com
  11. Hi Kirk, To transfer one catalog into another catalog within lightroom: 1. Select the folders and photos within these folders that you wish to transfer. (see #1 below) 2. Select the "export catalog" command from the "File" table. (see #2 below) 3. In the Export as Catalog dialog box, name the folder and direct lightroom where to place the folder. Make sure the "export negative files" and "include available previews" boxes are checked if you wish to include the raw files in your transfer. (see #3 below) 4. Attach your laptop to your desktop either directly with firewire, USB, or via network. 5. From your desktop PC, open lightroom and access the "import from catalog" command in the "File" table. Lightroom will ask you to locate the catalog file you created on your laptop (remember where you put it ;-)!) which is denoted by a ".Ircat" suffix. 6. In the "import" dialog box specify where you want the raw files to be placed and lightroom will transfer the raw files including any adjustments, keywording, etc that you made to your photos. Imasleeper
  12. Hi Phil, FWIW, They did not check our carry on bags last year when we flew to Bali. Our carry on's are legal size and I tried to make my 40 pounder look light when I placed it in the overhead. With the new rules on checked luggage people seem to be using larger and larger carry on bags which is actually OK from my perspective as ours look positively tiny by comparison. We try and sit in the back of the aircraft which usually gives us first access to the overheads. I also think it is a good strategy to be extremely nice to the check in person. Have a great time! Imasleeper
  13. Hi Diverdave, My wife also is a nondiver. She tried diving, didn't like it, and would rather read on book on the beach. Which means I am on my own unless my kids are diving. As you have discovered UW photography requires a slow, snails pace dive profile that some non photographers will find maddening, which can make pairing up with dive boat strangers potentially problematic. Plus, some divers are just plain dangerous! Early on in my diving, I found myself in a couple of scary incidents caused by an "instant boat buddy" I was paired with. I now refuse to buddy up with any stranger until I have had an opportunity to evaluate him/her underwater. Thus many of my dives are solo by nature, either within a larger boat group or completely by myself. As you indicated, this a controversial topic but there is plenty of information on the subject and some agencies offer solo dive training. Essentially the training revolves around the importance of equipment redundancy, self evaluation and rescue, conservative profiles and relatively shallow no decompression diving under conditions that you are familiar and comfortable with. Since you already are diving solo either by design or default my recommendation is to be smart and safe about it. Sincerely, imasleeper
  14. Thanks Bill for the reply! Your suggestion is a good option. I have also looked into using a custom sign shop (local and online) to make an exposure slate for me. Anyone else have any ideas? Sincerely, Imasleeper
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