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jothdu_47337

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About jothdu_47337

  • Rank
    Starfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.johndubicki.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5DIII
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-161
  • Accessories
    Housing Sentry
  1. Black Durgon, or Triggerfish. https://www.google.com/search?q=black+durgon&safe=off&biw=1028&bih=1062&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiSh8HTs8LSAhWmgVQKHRclC00Q_AUIBigB
  2. I shoot a very similar setup, except it's a 5DIII and a Sigma 15mm fisheye. One of the first things I worked on with CFWA shooting was dialing in proper exposure of the ambient light to get the blue water color I wanted for the scene. Obviously as you move up and down during the dive, and sunlight conditions change, you're going to need to change your shutter speed to keep control of the exposure. If you take your posted wide examples, I'd say regarding the ambient exposure 1 is under, 1 is over, and 1 (to my taste) is just a little under. However, most of your foreground/subject is being missed by your strobes, so either your strobe positioning is off or you're too far away. The easiest strobe position to start with is "10 and 2", generally just pointing them straight ahead, parallel to the lens barrel. That should get pretty good coverage of your foreground and thanks to the angle of the light coming from the strobe, should still avoid hitting particulate between lens and subject. Once you get comfortable with properly exposing the scene you can begin playing around with strobe positioning to add dimensionality to the light. Also, with CFWA, you really need to get the lens close, probably a lot closer than you think if you've never used it before. Keep in mind that your lens is focusing on a virtual image when using a dome port and not the scene itself, so when getting close your main concern is bumping the port or, more importantly, bumping the reef. I would also recommend Martin Edge's book. It's very well suited to a beginner and it's chock full of information.
  3. I have a Surface Pro 3, and while I really love it for mobile processing, I'm not sure I would love it quite as much if it was my only machine for editing. I also have a nice desktop with significant storage space in a RAID 1 array for redundancy. Pros: -extremely portable -powerful for its size -pen/screen combo makes for quick and easy masking, selection, spot removal, etc. Cons: -SSD size -screen size (resolution is good, but the actual screen real estate is lacking) -limited horsepower compared to desktop In fairness, all of the cons will be cons for any laptop. I do think the Surface is probably one of the better choices for mobile photo processing, and I can't say enough about the pen and touchscreen combo. How I use it is likely going to be different than what you're hoping for though. For the most part, I'm using it to import photos, very selectively cull (thanks to the limited SSD space), keywording, and basic processing (spot/backscatter removal, contrast adjustment, sharpening). My camera's white balance is set to my strobe temperature, so I'm not generally making color adjustments on the laptop. That said, perfect color calibration isn't super important to me (on the laptop) and anything I'd print would go through my calibrated desktop. It's a difficult machine to calibrate perfectly as mentioned above, because the brightness control does not allow fine control whatsoever. You can choose 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%. "Battery Saver" mode dims the screen a bit as well. You also mentioned the lack of consistent ambient light, which is an issue, but again, would be an issue on any laptop that's being moved around. When home, I move the images onto my desktop storage, merge the catalogs, create the necessary backups, then delete files off the laptop to make room for the next trip. The screen-size of the Surface is definitely limiting, especially if you keep any of the Lightroom windows open. It's simply difficult to see the image and I find myself flipping between "D" and "F" quite a bit to get a better look at what's going on. It's not a deal-breaker, but it's nothing like editing on a proper, large desktop monitor. You can also use Lightroom on a Surface in "tablet mode" which allows you to minimize the amount of space Lightroom is using for it's various menus. It takes some getting used to, and I still very much prefer the normal mode, but I'm trying. My wife has a pretty modern Macbook Air that I tried out with Lightroom in the past, and for me, the screen size difference was negligible. They're both pretty small. Hope that helps!
  4. Wonderful! Thank you all so much for the assistance. I really appreciate it!
  5. I'm trying to identify this juvenile puffer? He was quite small (maybe 2-3cm, possibly smaller), as you can see by comparing him to the whip coral he's hanging out near. I believe I was around 50-60ft at the time of the photo, diving in the Nosy Be area. My best guess is that this is a juvenile Canthigaster valentini, AKA Valentinni's Sharpnose Puffer, but I'm far from confident. Hoping one of the experts here can help to confirm!
  6. That does looks pretty similar to a photo on Nudipixel from Nosy Be, which is an adjacent island. Thank you.
  7. Hoping to get an ID on this nudibranch. It was roughly 2-2.5cm in length, found at about 50-60' during a dive off of Nosy Sakatia, Madagascar. I believe it's Hypselodoris maritima, but I'd love a second opinion. Thanks in advance!
  8. Hello! I'm John from Pennsylvania. Been lurking for a few years and need an ID on a nudibranch from a recent trip, so I had to make an account =)
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