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world.explorer last won the day on June 21 2016

world.explorer had the most liked content!

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About world.explorer

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    Scientific diving

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M1
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-EM1
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 x Sea&Sea YS-D1

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  1. Hi Blenny84, I am considering to sell my Oly Em-1 with Nauticam housing including the Panasonic 8mm with the excellent Nauticam 140mm Glass dome, as well as the Oly 60mm macro together with the required port. The Oly 12-40mm f2.8 or Oly 12-50 might be also available and would fit in the same port. However, its the EM-1 Mark 1, all located in Australia. Let me know if you are interested.
  2. Very helpful comments Chris, thanks a lot. Good to know that for UW use the Canon 11-24 EF isn't as fascinating as it appears on paper, this eases the temptation of hoping for the 10-24mm RF to be released. I have contacted Nauticam if they would be able to provide some guidance for the Samyang 14mm RF. But as you suggested I checked the EF port chart and have found the Sigma 14mm EF, which is almost identical with the Samyang 14mm RF (both have a 114° fov & are 95mm). Taking the Sigma as a guidance, the 230mm Optical glass fisheye port II + Extension Ring 70 is the preferred combo for the EF setup, which would be ideal, as this is also the 'preferred' Nauticam combo for the Canon RF 15-35mm f2.8 on an RF setup. This is a lens I am considering to replace my Samyang with for a bit more land flexibility due to the aperture, as well as that extra bit of flexibility underwater by having access to zoom and the required readily available gears. So perhaps at least for me the way to go will be getting the 230mm dome and 70 ring to make use of my Samyang 14mm, until I will be able to afford the Canon RF 15-35mm. Thanks a lot. Hope this was also of help for SharkB8
  3. Great to see this lens being used underwater. I own it as well, but only for land use so far. Even there I hardly use it on the go, as MF is indeed very tricky with this beast due to its demand for lots of light anywhere near f11 and above. Even at f22 I find this lens still extremely shallow with just a tiny area to work with. Though, with a strobe it is manageable to burst fire and later take the best shot. Not every subject likes this approach of course... As a short term solution this lens is very impressive, but on the long run the now announced Canon RF 100mm macro AF surely saves a lot of hit-and-miss shots and therewith also time underwater that can be used to find the next great subject, at least in my opinion. But again, great seen it in action UW. Thanks
  4. Just something more to think about. There is also the very price effective Samyang RF 14mm f2.8 AF on the market, as well as a properly very pricey Canon RF 10-24mm f4 rumored. I am in same same boat like you, and are thinking about making the jump from my Panasonic 8mm crop sensor UW setup by putting my Canon R5 in a housing. The question also for me is with which wide-angle lens. As you mentioned, the weight is something to consider so the WACP-2 which costs about 4000$ more to carry around 4 more kilos for that extraordinary image quality is a bit too much for me, both weight and price wise. As I am owning the Samyang 14mm (fov 114°), which I am extremely happy with so far on the land, I will probably go with that first until a wider RF version will be released. The 8mm Panasonic (16mm ff equivalent, fov 180°) I often found to be too wide underwater easily having bubbles of other divers in the shot, although it is excellent for macro-wide angle. I therefore won't be waiting/adapting a fullframe fisheye lens, since as mentioned by others when going anywhere near 10mm and below you have to be a fan of the barrel look and need an extremely wide dome to make use of it. It remains now for me to find a suitable dome tube combo for the Samyang, that might also for with upgrades
  5. Hi, I am selling my NA-36132 Nauticam 4.33" dome port. It is for N85 housing systems, so it works for any micro four thirds housing for Olympus and Panasonic cameras, such as the NA-EM1ii It can be used with the Panasonic / Lumix 8mm fisheye lens. It also works well with the Olympus 14mm and 20mm pancake wide-angle lenses and Olympus 12mm prime lens, and Olympus 8mm fisheye F1.8 when using a 20mm mini extension ring. Included are the dome, neoprene cover, rear cap and O-ring. The dome can be send from Australia or in a few weeks from Germany. Pick up, transfer on Australian or Germany bank account or PayPal accepted. The dome has a few signs of usage in form of light scratches at the bottom of the shade and at the dome. They can't be seen at all on pictures, even on wideangle-macro shots. Original price AU$820 or €500 Asking AU$500 or €300
  6. If you are still interested, mine is up for sale now. Let me know, and I can send you some pictures. Cheers
  7. Hi, I have the Nauticam 4.33 dome (Used with Pana 8mm). It is a great setup, particularly for getting really close. I will sell the dome in mid July when my new rig arrives. Sorry, will need it until then
  8. Hi, I am selling a Sea&Sea Y-sync cord 03470 (N type), which connects 2 Sea&Sea Strobes to Housings with a Nikonos 5 Pin Bulk Head. Selling due to change of system. The sync cord works perfectly, has never been flooded and only has a few signs of usage on the Nikonos end and the dust cap which have no influence on the performance. It allows continuous shooting, so no missed images of moving objects anymore. Works with any standard Nikonos 5-pin bulkhead and Sea&Sea underwater flash with 5-pin connection, such as Sea&Sea YS-D1, YS-D2. Included: Sync cord with O-rings and dust caps. Looking for AU$175 Shipping from Australia on buyers expenses.
  9. Thank you very much for the replys and hints to the reviews. I love my 4.33" with Pana 8mm since it is so small and light. Very easy to travel with, especially when I am also taking my dive gear, tripod, drone, etc. and it is possible to get very close. However, I finally would like to take great split pictures. The 4.33" is just to small for it as soon as you have a few ripples / waves. Of course bigger domes are better for split pictures due to more space between lens and water. But changing to another lens (Pana 8mm-> Oly 8mm) to be able to use the large dome (Zen 170mm) is a big investment, which at the same time makes it harder to travel with. Simply upgrading to the Nauticam 140mm which can be used with my Pana 8mm is definitely the cheaper and lighter option. But will the dome diameter upgrade be big enough for my taste, I don't know since I never tried a large dome. Thank you for the very informative reviews in the magazines. Unfortunately there is only one sentence regarding split pictures "I found the Nauticam 140 mm port worked well for split images in relatively calm water, using f/8 and above." with the Oly 8mm + Nauticam 140mm + extension ring. By judging from you model pictures above it indeed looks pretty good (with the 12mm and so presumably even better with the 8mm) at least in very calm conditions. I have to think about it, but will probably go with the 140mm dome due to its overall benefits compare to 'just' easier split pictures. Thank you very much everyone
  10. Thank you Phil for the great example pictures of the 8mm + 200 dome and 7-14mm + 200mm combination. I want to upgrade from my Pana 8mm + 4.33" mini dome. I am struggling between the Oly 8mm + Zen 170mm or the Pana 8mm + Nauticam 140mm. Could you please also show some examples of the Oly 8mm + 140mm combination. Why to do you generally prefer this setup over the other ones? Is it because it is a bit easier to travel with and you can get closer for macro-wide angle images? Does this setup also require extra caution regarding curved water lines as you described above? Thanks a lot.
  11. In case you are just using optical cables to trigger your strobes you won't need an offset vacuum valve. However, if you want to use electronic sync cables in order to trigger your strobes with much faster recycle time, or if you like to use an external screen, then you may need to think about such a valve. In case of the Nauticam Housing for the Olympus EM-1, there is only one accessory hole. This is usually used for the vacuum valve. So, since I want that my vacuum system tells me that my housing is perfectly sealed before I step in the water, while using electronic sync cables for the strobes, I need this offset vacuum valve. As said, this totally depends on your housing. The NA-EM-1 housing has a M14 accessory hole, while others have a M16 hole (Btw. there is also a step down adapter in case you got a M16 offset valve but want to use it on a M14 housing). Some DSLR housings have already the bulkhead for the sync cord and the separate vacuum valve installed, so there is no need for an offset vacuum valve. Hope this was helpful. If you are just interested in the standard M14 vacuum valve, then I am happy to sell you mine. Just let me know. Cheers
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