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Griff

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Everything posted by Griff

  1. Turn the camera on before you put it in the housing and set the camera to Sleep after 5 minutes of inactivity. To wake it up all you have to do is press the shutter. I used to have a Canon 700D in a Nauticam 600D housing and had to use this as the on off switch was different on the camera.
  2. The 12-50 in macro mode gives half life size compared to 1:1 from the 60mm macro not full frame. With the Nauticam CMC on the 12-50 at 50mm gives about 0.7 to 0.8 life size in the macro 65 port.
  3. You dont need the expensive Nauticam port for the 12-50, I wrote this in another OMD thread. The 12-50 works with the electric zoom so dont need a zoom gear just assign a button on the camera. I use the 12-50 in the Nauticam 65 macro port which is the same as the Oly 60mm macro port and fit the Nauticam CMC which gives you 0.8 life size macro at 50mm. The 12-50 with the expensive Nauticam port only gives you 0.5 life size macro at the 43mm macro position. Both these pictures were taken at Exmouth, Western Australia with an OMD EM1 in a Nauticam housing with the 12-50, using electric zoom, in the Macro 65 port and the nudi using the Nauticam CMC. The CMC turns the average 12-50 to a sharp lens but it is tricky to focus. Attached Images E088B263-17E1-495D-8F72-6FF0883E8BE6.jpeg E9CF3F3E-00B8-4910-80D1-6422F2064BE9.jpeg
  4. This picture was taken with the EM1, 12-50 with electric zoom, in the macro 65 port.
  5. The 12-50 works with the electric zoom so dont need a zoom gear just assign a button on the camera. I use the 12-50 in the Nauticam 65 macro port which is the same as the Oly 60mm macro port and fit the Nauticam CMC which gives you 0.8 life size macro at 50mm. The 12-50 with the expensive Nauticam port only gives you 0.5 life size macro at the 43mm macro position. Both these pictures were taken at Exmouth, Western Australia with an OMD EM1 in a Nauticam housing with the 12-50, using electric zoom, in the Macro 65 port and the nudi using the Nauticam CMC. The CMC turns the average 12-50 to a sharp lens but it is tricky to focus.
  6. I have used the 12-50 with my EM1 in normal zoom mode, electric zoom from the body in the Macro 65 port, for rhinopias in Bali and I had a macro diopter on too (Nauticam CMC) which gives 0.8 magnification at 50mm in case you see something interesting that is small.
  7. Good quality strobes such as Sea and Sea or Inon are most used underwater. First I would learn land based photography especially in manual mode so you know shutter, aperture and ISO and how they relate to each other. Also know your camera inside out, how to get into the menus and navigate them before you try and find a setting underwater! How long have you been diving? Make sure your diving skills are up to scratch as taking pictures can be very distracting. Most of all enjoy and learn from any photographers you know as well as diving photographers.
  8. I think you will see a difference in IQ and sharpness from the better focusing, WB etc but not in the dynamic range or with ISO at 100 as we use flash underwater anyway to get best results. I think you will be very pleased with the results. I have a original 6D and 7D Mk2 for land based photos and the focusing from the 6D is way behind the 7D. Underwater focusing speed and accuracy is far more important.
  9. The Oly 60mm in the Macro 65 port is so close to the glass you have to remove the UV filter if one is fitted. As the Macro 45 port is not made for the 30mm macro lenses and is far away enough from the glass as to negate the extra magnification I believe. Never had a Ikelite housing but is was an idea as you are trying to save weight for travel. If you still want M43 then I would definitely get the latest EM1 mk 2 for the battery life issue, I have had quite a few dives whilst traveling where the battery has given up during the third dive and I never had any Canon battery give up. My wife and I still use Canon DSLRs and M43 cameras above water but only the Olympus underwater. The trigger on the EM1 housing is a pistol type where the EM10 is a push down lever, I think it is still the same now but most new Nauticam housing come with a trigger converter when you fit the optional handles (higher end housings come with handles).
  10. Why dont you look at a Canon 200D in an Ikelite housing? Very small and compact and can use your existing Tokina and Canon macro lens or get the very good Canon 60mm macro. I used to use a Canon 700D in a Nauticam but switched to an Olympus EM1 and a EM10 for my wife. Both are great and controls underwater are nearly the same but the EM1 has a better trigger. Never used a finder and always use the EVF and again the bigger EVF in the EM1 has the advantage. The Oly 60mm can be used on its own or with a macro diopter for even greater super macro. I have the Nauticam CMC and while tricky to use gives you 2:1 magnification. You cant use the CMC with the 30mm macro lenses as they are too far from the port glass. The 60mm is made for the Macro 60 port. I also have the Oly 8mm FE and the Pany 7-14 behind the Nauticam acrylic ports but the Oly 8mm is the one Id recommend. So why do I suggest the 200D ikelite combo? The main drawbacks of the Olympus are battery life, about 2.5 dives on a 3 dive boat trip so you end up taking less pictures to conserve battery or run the risk of opening the housing and swapping the battery. The EM1 mk2 has much better battery life and so does the Pany GH4 or GH5. Also the Oly EM1 in Nauticam with macro lens and port is only 1.5kg lighter than the 700D in Nauticam with lens and port (but also less bulky). But the strobes, arms, focus lights, GoPro etc etc weigh the same so you end up with a 5 to 6kg system as opposed to a 6.5 to 7.5kg system. The Canon 200D Ikelite is the same size and weight as their Olympus and Panasonic housings but you dont have to buy new lenses. Hope this helps.
  11. Here are some low res (for Online viewing) of my trip to Ningaloo WA taken with OMD EM1 with Olympus 8mm f1.8 in Nauticam housing. No flash as you are not allowed to use them photographing the whale sharks. Also some astrophotography pics as this lens has very low coma distortion.
  12. I use the Peak Designs quick release straps which take seconds to fit and can be used with wrist or neck/shoulder straps.
  13. Well worth having and give you peace of mind. My minor flood was due to people dropping thier cameras on top of mine in a small rinse bucket. It worked perfectly on both dives (and every dive before and since) but both instances on this thread were human error, not a system fail.
  14. I have a Nauticam NA-EM1with a vacuum valve, I had finished a double boat dive and had my camera in my own personal rinse bucket. Every other camera owner on the boat had piled or dropped their cameras onto my camera in the bucket. I heard a faint beeping and was horrified to see my flood alarm going. There was a small amount of water inside but the camera was fine. Back in my room I packed the housing with kitchen roll, took the battery out and left it for a few days with the air conditioning going at full. I replaced the battery and it's worked fine. The trick is to ensure the inside of the electronics unit is fully dried out before you try it again.
  15. Update, I sent back the EM1 to Olympus to fix the dodgy repair of the off centre EVF. They were apologetic and sent me a postage label and are going to treat it as a priority.
  16. I have a Panasonic G7 and the Olympus 12-50 PZ and you can use the arrow keys to electronically zoom the lens, same as on the Olympus bodies. Ikelite have a dome for this lens and the lens is cheap New or second hand. You can also use it behind a flat port and put a diopter e.g. Nauticam CMC on it for near macro (0.8 life size). I used the 12-50 behind a flat port with my EM1 in Ningaloo and got a giant Manta and small nudi shots on the same dive. The CMC diopter really sharpens up the lens a lot too.
  17. I acknowledge all cameras can have problems and a completely dead one is unlucky. If you look at original post I stated my wife and I have owned 10 Canon cameras (still use 2 above water) and all have been faultless even after dropping a 600D on to concrete it worked. My Olympus history is as follows: 1. OMD EM1 bought Jan 15 rear dial problem after 6 months exchanged by shop. 2. OMD EM1 silver which replaced above camera in Jul 15. Works ok till rear dial problem in Nov 16 fixed under warranty. 3. OMD EM10 wife's underwater camera works fine. 4. OMD EM1 has sun spot in view finder in Feb 17 (another common problem with Olympus) which is fixed out of warranty as they acknowledge faulty part. 5. Get it back from repair and new viewfinder is off Centre by a row of focus points and all of information at bottom of screen is obscured. Is this bad luck with 2 cameras and 1 botched repair? No its poor reliability as they are common faults. I have a Hyundai IX35 which has had quite a few minor faults including 4 sat nav/ radio units and 3 leather steering wheels with flaking leather. Is that bad luck or a sign of fitting poor quality components? Even the dealer states the sat nav is cheap rubbish and they change a lot of them. I phoned Olympus this morning and they told me to try a re-set and if that doesn't work they will fix it as a priority job. I know Olympus are doing thier best to help me and the after service is very good (repair aside!!) I was thinking of upgrading to the EM1 mk2 but will wait to see the GH5 (I also have a Panasonic G7 with no problems) or wait for more reliability feed back on the EM1 mk2. I have sold all my housings and ports for the Canons and am heavily invested in lenses, housings and Nauticam N85 ports to switch back to Canon for my underwater photography, so I hope you all understand my frustration and dilemma!!
  18. Got my EM1 back from its free repair, out of warranty, which was good but the clowns at Olympus Aus have misaligned the new viewfinder screen so I can't see the info at the bottom of screen and only have 72 focus points not 81!! Olympus cameras are not reliable and so it seems not are thier repair department. Not happy, will be on the phone to complain in the morning. Won't buy another Olympus camera. Will stick to Canon.
  19. You will need an aluminium housing such as a Nauticam rated to 100m. There a few second hand on the classifieds here. If buying new upgrade your camera to say Nikon D500 as the housings are expensive no matter the age of the camera. Get the vacuum valve for the housing for more peace of mind. Also the camera is more rugged and will stand up to minor floods better. At those depths going to need twin strobes and strong focus or video lights. Sorry did not see you already had the Aquatica housing. Still an upgrade to a vacuum valve is essential.
  20. I does not affect the final image, it's more annoying than anything but it does not install any confidence in Olympus products. They are water proof, freeze proof but not sun proof!!!! It must of been when I was taking pictures on the beach recently.
  21. I Googled it and it came up with the same answer. I am going to contact Olympus, hopefully they will fix it for me.
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