Joss

Hello, check this link from Nauticam https://www.nauticam.com/blogs/news/choosing-the-right-dome. I seriously doubt that someone could look at a picture and tell whether the pictures was done with an acrylic or glass dome. The most important is to get the right extension. There are famous and awarded photographer whom using acrylic domes just because they are lighter above water and able to polish. Obviously they don't care about having the most expensive option... If you are getting your fist setup, get the acrylic dome and maybe have another thought in two years? Joss

I have my primary computer attached with bungee cords to a float arm. This computer is air integrated and I find it very convenient not to have to look the gauge which i keep tucked it on the bc. I have the camera attached to my BC with a cetacea lanyard. I hope never lost it... I wear a second computer (simple one) which I only look at the end of each dive to check my depth in case I have to deploy a smb while my camera rig is hanging from the bc. This work great for me. Joss

Well done!

Please see this webpage: http://parquenacionalcabopulmo.mx/turismo-y-recreacion/ Unfortunatelly only in spanish, at the bottom it mentions the permit. However Nautilius should assist you with that...

Hello, To reach the shutter release and AF On levers simultaneously, i would recomend smaller handles. (In case you use a nauticam housing). I used the 10-24 with a Zen 170 (+ 60mm ext.) in Revillagigiedo 2 years ago and was very happy with the results. I'm not sure why Nauticam don't have the 180 as an option in the port charts. Regards, Joss

Cabo Pulmo divers is a great option. I had a great time diving with Daniel and David. http://www.cabopulmodivers.com/?lang=es Please note that since this year in Cabo Pulmo, you need to apply for a photo permit in advance. It is very easy and only takes a couple od days by e-mail.

Hello Carig, if I understand correctly you are already using the "release button to use dial", but you want to switch the Main / sub commands only for the Iso. I think it is not possible. To adjust iso on my Nauticam D500, i press the iso lever with my right thumb and then adjust the main command with my right thumb. It takes some practice, but then you can do it by "memory" I can do it easily with 1 hand. Please note that I'm using short handles. Kind regards, Joss

Hello Pavel, thank you for taking the time to answer. Regarding HSS. I have seen the specs of the new Retra strobes and it shows "HSS ready". What do you think about it? does it means that that my credit card will be bleeding soon? Kind regards, Joss

Hello Pavel, From your last post, would it be ok deduct that a D500 could do 1/320 and 1/500 with anuticam's TTL board working on Manual? I'm not really after TTL, but 1/500 in manual will be quite interesting. Kind regards, Joss

Hello Jon Jake, I'm really curious about your computer's holder. Could you please share some details? Sorry about derailing this topic, but I have been looking for something similar for a perdix. Regards, Joss

I just switched to small handles on my D500 housing and I´m liking it. I have “regular” size hands, but I was not able to move the focus points while having my finger on the shooting handle. When doing macro, most of the time I use a finger of my left hand to “balance” myself. With the short handles now I can: hold my rig, change focus points and shoot with my right hand. I have the impression that the standard handles are for divers wearing gloves… I think you made a good decision, happy shooting! Joss

Hello, would you ship the Aquatica Port extension #18453 to Mexico city by USPS? What the price would be? Are you including o-rings? Kind regards, Joss

I have had those problems using only the Tokina 10-17 on my D500. What works for me is screwing the lens a bit harder / faster to the camera (this is the only lens that needs rough love). If I don't do that, the lens does not focus automatically. It might be the same issue with your teleconverter. Kind regards, Joss

Hello and thanks for the comment, Maybe I´m not 100% clear. I´m looking for long exposures with rear curtain as described in Alex Mustard book, chapter "Panning and Spins". I want the subject to be frozen by the strobes with the blur going to the opposite direction of the subject. But I have failing miserably on the focusing part. Kind regards, Joss

Hello, I'm looking for advice with panning shots. I understand the concept of using front courtain but I want to try the rear courtain. My question is, how to achieve focus when the camera is stationary and using rear curtain. Should I try 3d focus system (nikon shooter)? Maybe moving the focus point to the left if the subject is moving right? Thanks and kind regars, Joss