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Joss

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Posts posted by Joss


  1. 5 hours ago, deliamaria said:

    I've read that on the retra this might be an issue, at least with a nauticam nikon setup, switching between manual and TTL on the strobe while having the ttl converter in the housing setup to TTL. 

    With Uwtechnics trigger / converter, you just have to set the dial to position 6 (Retra) and select the mode (Manual, TTL, HHS) on the Retra Strobe. It is super easy.


  2. Hi,

    I’m not familiar with the new Z-330, but I was happy with my old Z-240 until a bulb in one of the strobes turned dark. (That gave an excuse to get the Retras without feeling bad about spending money in this expensive hobby).

    I have been shooting a pair of “Retra Pro” since February and light output difference compared to the Inons Z-240 is very noticeable. I would say 2 stops, maybe more? This is evident special on wrecks, pictures look quite different.

    The battery consumption is high, specially shooting wrecks at full power. But I haven’t run out of batteries (eneelop pro) in my 2 dives trips. Normally 100 – 150 shoots.

    It’s true that Retra is a new company, but I’m very happy with the support they offer. They have replied my emails very quickly (hours).

    I’m happy with my Retras, and I think you will be very happy with any of them: Retra and / or Inon. Just stay away from S&S.

     

    Regards,

    Joss


  3. I started shooting with the 105 in a DX body and got used to it, to add magnification I use the inon UCL-165. I tried the nauticam SMC1, but it was very hard for me (this is of course an user issue).

    Then I tried the the 60mm but didn't like it. I never managed to get a super macro shot. I'm shure it is grat for fish portrait.

    A few weeks ago I read a post by Reef Photo about the 85mm and decided to get a used one. I have been using it for the last month and I'm very happy with it. The SMC1 works very well with it. The last 3 pictures on my IG are with that lens (Only the nudibranch was taken with the SMC1). josiluna_uw

    For a DX body, I would recomend the 85mm instead the 105 and 60. Focus on the 85mm is fast and accurate.

    Joss


  4. On 7/8/2020 at 10:41 AM, Pavel Kolpakov said:

    Hi Jose,

    You can look online User Manual for TTL-Converter #11031-HSS here:  https://ru.calameo.com/read/005560836d01ae694dc7e

    I also can send PDF, if you give me an e-mail.

    Thanks Pavel, I just received it yesterday. That was quick!

    I did a HSS test at home (not uw) and it works well all the way to 1/8000s. 

    I have a question, with my D500 in auto FP 1/250 + retras in HSS mode. It looks like I still can do 1/100, 1/6,0 1/30..... without going back to Manual on the retras. But the instruction manual says to put the retras in M mode for normal speeds. I'm missing something?

    Really looking forward for the weekend!

    Kind regards,

    Joss

     


  5. Interesting article, as always.

    I think that there is a think that we normally tent to miss when we talk about new gear. Who is going to use it? A beginner, an experienced hobbyist or a Pro?

    I’m not surprise to hear that an experience photographer on a point and shoot pulls out better images than a hobbyist with an expensive rig. This is the same for any other field.

    2.5 years ago I upgraded from a RX-100mii, after spending months on spreadsheets trying to balance my budget with the options I settled on the Oly E-M1m2. At that time, I didn’t wat to go into FF.

    At the end, just before hitting the buy button I switched to the D500. I’m very happy with the D500, but I’m sure that I would be as happy with the Oly. With the time, I have seen improvement in my images that keep me from regretting expending all that money.

    UW photography is “just” a hobby for me, and other from work (with phone) I normally don’t take pictures on land. I know that I don’t need / use all the options of the D500. But I love how fast the autofocus work with the Nikkor micro lenses.

    Regarding your conclusion I agree with you, we hobbyist tent to expend way much money on equipment and gadgets. However, when I look at the equipment used in award winning competitions it is always FF & APS-C formats. I’m not saying DSRL is better, I have seen great videos and shots with the Panasonic and Sony cameras.

    As a hobbyist, I don’t think that I can tell the difference from shots taken with DX and MFT system. Is it the same for everyone? Maybe…

    I think one should consider the size and weight of the final rig (housing, arms, strobes, etc) and make sure you are happy with it.

    About the extra cost from MFT and DX, for me it was around 15% and it wasn’t the most important thing. And there is nothing worse than looking at a shoot thinking that you should have bought a “better” system.

    I think that this discussion involves more than technical facts and comparison, making it very hard to get a conclusion where everybody agrees.


  6. Hello,

    I would like to ask you about using the Nikkor 85mm in the Nauticam Macro Port 60.

    How well does it fit? Are you interested on selling only the Nikkor 85mm?

    Kind regards,

    Joss

     


  7. 23 minutes ago, Tinman said:

    You can do what you want, but I think using a 230mm dome with a DX 10-24mm lens is probably over doing it a bit.

    Thank you for your comments. I do appreciate them

    I understand that a 230mm dome on a DX body might seem a bit weird, but I already own one. And I like to use it while free diving.

    I want to take a reef shot with dolphins early in the morning with  low light. I want to limit the speed to no lower than 160, and ISO not higher than 1000. I have done some testing and it looks like f5 might works well in terms of exposure.

    Regards,

    Joss


  8. 20 hours ago, TimG said:

    Hey Joss

    A good description by bill1946.

    It's worth doing a search on WP for the S&S lens Correction Lens. The subject has come up a few times and, from the posts I've read, the folks that use it rate it highly for FF WA use.

     

    Thanks Tim, yeah I did search on WP but didn’t find anything on the 10-24 or any other DX lens. Maybe it is only useful with a full frame camera / lens.

    I think some guys around WP have D500 and D850 cameras and was hoping to hear from them.

     

    Kind regards,

    Joss


  9. I just got my new strobes and physically they are beautiful, even the neoprene sleeves look awesome on them. Hopefully the wheatear this weekend will allow for diving here.
    With out yet been shooting underwater, my only complain would be is that it looks easy to scratch the front acrylic. Retra sells protectors to use when not using diffusers or reducers. Those bits are now ordered.
    Bluetooth connectivity seems to work well, but I have only been playing with the pilot light intensity. 
    Now we have to wait for a new trigger with HSS, it will be interesting to try HSS.
    Only time will tell if the new strobes are as reliable as the trusty Inons Z240. I hope they do.

    Kind regards,
    Joss

    • Like 2

  10. On 1/29/2020 at 5:24 AM, Cnotthoff said:

    A friend recommended a Nikon 70-180mm macro lens. Nauticam doesn't make a zoom gear for this lens and it's kind of tricky to fit. I broke out the CAD software I use for underwater inspection reports and got up to speed with developing 3D parts for 3D printing. There are a few changes that I'd make, but it works really well. It's nice not to be limited to most common lens choices.

    Has anyone else experimented with 3D printing accessories?

     

    Interesting, what port and extension are you using?

    How do you like that lens underwater?


  11. On 1/19/2020 at 10:03 PM, Scotzh said:

    Joss, I've tried the 105mm with CMC-1 today and I too had problem getting the object in focus. I guess I just have to buy me the SMC-1 and a SMC-1 multiplier as everybody else. 

    I got the SMC-1 to used with the nikkor 105 VR on a dx body and it has probed to be quite a challenge. Sometimes I manage to get focus and it is great, but most of the time is just fustration. 

    Now, I do preffer to use the old INON UCL-165 and the most recent UCL-90.

    However, this is my sutuation and only shows my lack of expertise. I have seen awesome pictures from others with the SMC-1 and event with the SMC-2


  12. 6 hours ago, robotr0n said:

    I was talking to a Seacam representative the other day and was told that their strobes go up to 1/8000 sync speed, which isn't achievable using fiber optics. Also, having used fiber optics for data transmission, I know how easy it is to break fiber optics and would like to avoid that if at all possible.

    Your response seems to indicate that running TTL on sync cords is impossible with something like a YS-D2. Is that the case? 

    Hi, I have been using a pair of INON fiber optic cables since 2015 and done about 600 dive with them. So far no problems.

    Also, keep in mind that for High Sync Speed you will have to use the new SEACAM or new Retra strobes.


  13. Hello, check this link from Nauticam

    https://www.nauticam.com/blogs/news/choosing-the-right-dome.

    I seriously doubt that someone could look at a picture and tell whether the pictures was done with an acrylic or glass dome. The most important is to get the right extension.

    There are famous and awarded photographer whom using acrylic domes just because they are lighter above water and able to polish. Obviously they don't care about having the most expensive option...

    If you are getting your fist setup, get the acrylic dome and maybe have another thought in two years?

    Joss

    • Like 1

  14. I have my primary computer attached with bungee cords to a float arm. This computer is air integrated and I find it very convenient not to have to look the gauge which i keep tucked it on the bc.
    I have the camera attached to my BC with a cetacea lanyard. I hope never lost it...
    I wear a second computer (simple one) which I only look at the end of each dive to check my depth in case I have to deploy a smb while my camera rig is hanging from the bc.
    This work great for me.

    Joss

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