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Everything posted by Balrog

  1. 1. Ike Housing - Replaced button O rings and didn't get one fully seated in it's recess. Not a full flood but started to dribble at 10m. Just a sock and a lump of lead got damp. 2. Fisheye Fix housing - Trapped the corner of a silica sachet in the door seal. Trashed a G11. Would have seen it, had it been a clear housing.
  2. That's really interesting work. Well done.
  3. I don't ever tighten mine fully; just until it stops then back off 1/8 turn. It's a radial (piston type) seal so doesn't need any axial compression.
  4. Unless you're doing something in a hazardous environment or throwing copious amounts of water around, I personally wouldn't risk a $600 strobe when you can get a complete studio flash kits with modelling lights cheap from Hong Kong on Ebay. I have a set that I occasionally play with. Not full pro quality but do the job well enough. All your mounting and connection problems go away. Note that the flash duration of all mains studio type strobes is somewhat longer than the battery operated thyristor type strobes, particularly on low power so they're not so as good for high speed (eg water droplet) capture.
  5. These items have been up here for a good few weeks now. 10% off everything as a starting price. Extended arm clamp sold.
  6. I have one here http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51148 It's been up for a good few weeks now without enquiry so price negotiable. No idea of shipping cost to US
  7. That's impressive. Pretty good for your hull & topsides too maybe.
  8. Yes, it's a disaster that everyone wishes hadn't happened but from my perspective I find such articles rather strong on one sided rhetoric and weak on actual facts; certainly any that are comparative with previous background radiation. These articles appear to me to be a bit better balanced - but who knows. http://www.takepart.com/article/2013/09/03/pacific-fish-safe-eat http://thinkprogress.org/climate/2013/08/29/2548951/fukushima-radiation-fish/
  9. Sorry for the delay, needed to check with my son. Yes, that sounds fair. PM sent.
  10. Ikelite Zoom sleeve #5509.28 Perfect. The labels show what it was used for but of course fits other lenses. £12 High res Pic Ikelite Zoom sleeve #9059.8 Perfect. The labels show what it was used for but, of course it fits other lenses. £12 High res Pic Ikelite #6781.50 Housing for Canon 500D / 450D. Top condition but I noticed some of the buttons are sticky having been unused for 2 years. I would recommend buying a service kit (#6201.01 £19.9) before taking this underwater. He used to borrow my ports so there are none with this housing. £400 High Res Pic 1, Pic 2, Pic 3, Pic 4
  11. This kit belongs to my son who suffered a serious anomalous IPE during rebreather diving in Oban. Whilst pronounced fit to dive, he has unfortunately been unable to gain the confidence to get back in the water and has now made the tough decision to sell his kit. He was not a dedicated UW photog so the kit listed here has seen very light use only on blue water holidays. He has loads of other stuff for sale; twinsets, wings, suits, regs, whips and all the other paraphernalia that an experienced diver accumulates. If interested, drop me a PM or email tim <at> timguydesigns.co.uk . I have not uploaded all the photos here but included links to full res. Shipping will be at cost for all items. UK sale preferred due to all the paperwork etc. Prices are nominal – make him an offer. Ikelite DS161 strobe, battery & charger Very clean condition with only a few very minor scuffs on the rubber front collar. (The detail photo has enhanced their appearance) Battery has been regularly charged in storage so should be in good condition. Original boxes, diffuser, charger & power adaptor plugs. 1” ball mounting. £750 High res pics - All, Strobe detail Ikelite Single Sync cable #4103.51 Ike to Ike, 5 wire. Good condition £55 High res pic Cable Inon UWL-100 Achromat Wide Conversion Lens Type 1 but also with a Type 2 M67 rear flange. Optically perfect and externally good but much to my chagrin, I now notice a couple of salt crystals by the mounting thread in one of the detail photos. These have rinsed off. I must also learn to use a lint free cloth! Front & Rear lens caps included (rear not pictured). Note that this does not come with the optional dome and shade. £250 High res pics - All, Side, Front, Rear Ikelite Pro Video Light. This is old kit and in many ways now superseded. It is fitted with a 50W halogen flood which can be changed for 100W. Separate 20W modelling bulb. It’s brighter than it looks in the photo (f22 @ 1/160). The batteries seem to hold but are old NiCd so likely not the best. I have no idea of burn time. Never the less, it may be of use to someone. It is heavy so you will need to take off some lead. The battery pack clamps onto a clip designed to fit onto weight belt or similar. Shipping may be a bit pricey. Charger has UK type plug only. No idea of the value of this, try a silly offer. High res Pic Ultralight Extended Clamp, 1” ball. This is the longer reach version of the clamp which allows 2” buoyancy arms to be fully folded together. £25 High res Pic Ultralight Clamp, 1” ball. This is the standard shorter version. £22 High res Pic Ikelite 1” Ball Mount #9517.3 Fair condition with a little ‘whiting’ in the recesses. £12 High res Pic Ikelite 1 ¼” Ball post #9577.3 I don’t think this has ever seen the water, certainly we have no other 1-1/4” ball kit. £12 High res Pic Ultralight DB-BL12, 12”, Large buoyancy arm 2” dia, 1” ball. Contributes 11 oz to the buoyancy of your rig. Fair condition. There is a very small ding/scratch about 2/3 of the way along in the photo. It could also have done with a clean before I took the photo. £45 High res Pic Ikelite #0466.62 6″ arm, 1” ball. Good condition with no marks or scratches Sorry missed taking a photo of this but I’m sure we all know what they look like. £15 StiX Adjustable Buoyancy Float Belt. Perfect crispy condition. I suggest fitting a safety tether to this if using it on a parallel port. £30 High res Pic More in the next post. Tim.
  12. I think most of us have similar problems when using long arms, the ball clamps are unlikely to hold the strobes adequately out of the water when extended; they're not designed to do it. I position the strobes right against the handles with the arms vertical or sloping slightly inward and lock them off tight for carrying and in the boat, then adjust them for easy movement when in the water. Moving the ball joints with the joints screwed down really tight can cause galling of the aluminium clamp seat faces - don't do it. 1-1/4" dia balls have better holding but this means replacing the whole set up anyway. The rope handle in your linked post can just as easily be put between the tray handles. Arm buoyancy is probably better arranged at the strobe end but with your current set up, you don't have much choice. The arm lengths are arranged with the first arm shorter such that the strobes can come right up to the port, if you swap them over this will become more difficult; plus it won't fold for transport as above. I've never owned a Nauticam housing but if you are concerned, try a triple clamp on each handle ball and add a horizontal arm linking between them. This can be used for carrying, focus light etc can also be mounted onto this arm. Before you do this though, think about freedom of movement of the strobe arm joint at the triple clamp. I had such a set up at one time but binned it after a few dives because it prevented swinging the short arm inward.
  13. Against the grain, I have to say that I prefer UCLS; smoother, less catchy, more durable and I suspect less water resistance. The downside is they are not adjustable: you need to get buoyancy right when purchasing and maybe sort out a way to trim for lens/port variations. If you do choose 2" dia UCLS make sure you buy the longer reach ball clamps which allow a pair of arms to fold 180 deg. I happily used those kids tubular swimming float things for my first couple of years but they do compress and offer less buoyancy at depth. Nevertheless, a good starting point if budget is limited due to buying lots of other kit.
  14. My solution is to attach a weight onto the dome shade using a countersunk screw such that I can change the weight according to port extension and lens combo.
  15. In my personal opinion some of the posts here might be a bit over the top but it depends on what you mean by underwater photography; there's a lot of difference between taking a few quick point & shoot mementos during a dive and seeking the ultimate composition and lighting with a bulky rig. An inexperienced diver with good buoyancy control can carry a small camera underwater but it must be supplementary to and not the main focus of the dive. 1) Keep your camera in your BC pocket on a short tether and only take it out only when you are feeling comfortable and in a non stress situation, maybe even settled on the sand. 2) Pre-set it before entering the water such that you don't distract from situation awareness with complicated button pushing. 3) Take what you can see; don't chase subjects, you will likely forget about safe diving as you push along watching only your view finder/screen - they are quicker than you anyway. 4) Forget wide angle or macro lenses, they will tempt you closer to your subject and potentially into personal danger or reef kicking territory. Finally don't expect great shots, these generally take much more experience, better diving skills and probably a more complex rig. 2c Tim
  16. What was the shutter speed, aperture and strobe power
  17. My eye wanders around this image too much and the lighter coralline branches lead it off the page. A health dose of 'fist' (vignette) will probably give the subject more punch no matter how you crop or colour balance it.
  18. I think its all in the nature of your approach. If they are snoozing, they often get surprised and take flight when they spot you. If they are swimming its difficult to approach other than on a broad arc without appearing to be chasing them - a fruitless effort. If they are feeding its possible to approach casually and allow them time to conclude that you are not a threat. So, yes, when feeding is the easiest time to get close up and intimate.
  19. After a trip, I dunk my domes in a sink full of water with a small amount of detergent on the basis that it will flush out any grit etc that may have found its way in there. Rinse, then dry the dome, as suggested with a microfibre and leave it dome up for any residual water (on the inside of the flange) to evaporate rather than run back onto the glass.
  20. I did the same thing. Got under to find the cable and housing not connected. There was some corrosion/missing plating on the pins, presumably electrolytic action. I just flushed well with fresh water, dried thoroughly and put a smear of copper grease on the pins to ensure a good contact in the future. Still working fine 3 years later
  21. A balloon, tied off with the slightest puff of air in it could give a good indication of vacuum retention. Good luck getting it through airport security
  22. Controls used rather depend on whether I set i up properly before I got wet !!! Having full menu control has saved the day a couple of times. Modern cameras are so much more complex than a manual focus film SLR.
  23. Any detail that is blown away by over exposure can't be recovered so it is generally safer to underexpose by 1/2 stop. LR will do a much better job of recovering dark areas. A good starting point is to process in LR to maximise the spread of the histogram (exposure & black sliders) then if necessary adjust fill light or recovery to taste. Failing that start playing with the tone curves or region sliders. A touch of the clarity slider seldom hurts. All post processing works much better with raw files.
  24. Possibly. There is also a zener variant which has an identical package but acts as a current limiter. http://www.rapidonli...al-Zener-Diodes
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