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Everything posted by Balrog

  1. I like the Tokina 11-16: a crisp lens and works well behind an 8" dome. A +2 dioptre helps you get closer but won't focus to infinity on under/over shots. For the same numbers, rectilinears are not as wide as equivalent fisheyes.
  2. Is it the Rena that ran onto the reef in October and has now broken its back. Here and here
  3. First step is to get a copy of Martin Edge's book "The Underwater Photographer" - an acknowledged tome - and enoy reading it. It will give a good understanding of the challenges, opportunities and many ideas regarding where you want to go in the future with both gear and photo style; likely saving it's cost. If you are used to the facilities of a DSLR then a compact probably won't satisfy you. My personal opinion is that as a new diver, I wouldn't over complicate the rig. Start off with a second hand housing for the D200, a magic filter and a copy of lightroom software. Shoot in RAW and colour correct in post process. The make of housing doesn't matter as long as it reliably keeps the camera dry. Until your buoyancy is under micro control, most of your shots are likely to be general wide views and fish portraits at moderate depths. Unless you are diving wrecks the good photo opportinities are mostly between 15-40ft where you can get away without a strobe. You are absolutely right that you can't illuminate a wide scene with even the most powerful strobes. What they will do is put the missing red back in to the foreground, you still need to expose correctly for the background and water column. Once you are comfortable, have a better understanding and and know what you want to do, plan to add a strobe as the very next step. If at this point, the housing isn't compatible with the strobe type you want, pop the housing back on ebay where you will likely only lose a few $. Who knows if you buy well and don't keep the housing too long, you might even come out even - but with a lot more knowledge.
  4. I use network attached storage (NAS) for all data files, photos & videos. Can be accessed from lappies & desktop, (win or mac) throughout the house. Also when time comes to change out machines or rescue crashes, the job is a lot simpler without having to move too much data. Some files such as lightroom catalogues insist on being on the local drive though.
  5. Yes, I like it very much, particularly for wrecks and over-unders where I want to keep things looking straight. For under only shots it will stand a +2, maybe even a +3 dioptre behind an 8" dome if closer focus is needed. If I had the choice of only 11-16 or 10-17 then it would be the former.
  6. Ouch. .. and not a particularly good new paint job either
  7. I personally can't see how the port makes any difference; the piston seal arrangement is exactly the same on all. The 4 clip system gives additional mechanical strength over 2 clips when out of the water but makes no difference once submerged. I've never had a drop of water in my ageing 400D 2 clip Ike housing in 4 years and 400 dives and never seen anyone else flood one. Been carrying a spare O ring for the last 4 years too, but still using the original. The only concerns I have is if you have to jump in or enter heavy surf - definitely needs cuddling to keep the dome pressed into the housing. Extra care is needed when assembling the 8" dome and short extension (for Tokina 10-17) because you can't really see the O ring. 2c
  8. Need a refurb of my dome too. Just got this from an Ebay vendor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250912308870?ssP...984.m1423.l2649. Arrived in 2 days and am about to order this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320781047264?ssP...984.m1438.l2661. Might be a better option as you are in the UK.
  9. Not much help unless you are a boffin but it seems that pins 2,3,4 & 5 are for digital serial communication with ETTL strobes rather than simple high/low status signals. They communicate stuff such as aperture, focal length, shutter speed. ISO etc. Top left is the data clock, top right & bottom left carry the data. EDIT - Here you go :- http://kzar.net/wiki/Photo/CanonE-TTLProtocol
  10. Yes,good job, that's better, not only because of the filter but because you are much closer to the subject. It's worth remembering that water absorbs red light not only in its path from the surface to your shooting depth but also between your lens and the subject - It's a double whammy. I still think the 85 (same as 85A) or the slightly milder 85B would be closer to what you need but it has to be said that your FLB is close enough to need only minor correction of the magenta channel. Without a local underwater light source you are always going to need some correction anyway.
  11. Very good Here's my contribution A shark is swimming along and spots a squid. After circling it for a few minutes the fearful squid says, "Don't eat me. Please don't eat me. I'm not feeling well. You'll catch what I have got and become ill." The shark considers for a moment, opens it's mouth wide and gently clamps a pair of teeth onto just one of the sqid's tentacles. He then swims across to one of his shark friend with the squid still pinned in his mouth and says, "Here's the six quid I owe you." (For the benefit of our American friends a 'quid' is colloquial for a Pound Sterling)
  12. It is depth dependant but try a Wratten #85 (112 Mired) Here's a chart of them http://www.kvglabs.com/page153.html
  13. I fear that the majority of diving tourists may be more fickle than the more serious divers.
  14. The rights and wrongs cans be debated forever but the tourism industry is more about public perception and fashion than fact. Looking at the poll in here, (from presumably more informed and dedicated divers) they might be in trouble. Although it's not a majority, 30% is a lot of business to loose without downsizing infrastructure.
  15. Getting balance and access right is a very personal thing. Tank inversion gives good valve access but needs longer hoses. Have you thought about a slob knob http://www.divepursuits.com/products/prod/...embly-slob-knob. I've seen quick release clamps used to park the pony but allowing it to drop onto a side sling for the operating position. My son has been busy making up some sort of elastic webbing and velcro arrangement for mixed gas diving but I haven't seen the result yet.
  16. More info at the bottom of this page http://www.calacademy.org/blogs/expedition/?p=254
  17. Yes, well done. The prices charged for 'proper' fibre cables is ridiculous in my opinion.
  18. Tim. That's first shot is absolutely stunning Just goes to show that we UWPs are not just one trick ponies.
  19. Having a strobe will definitely increase your picture quality, two just gives you a few more lighting options but are often over used for macro. Yes, the DS160/161 is considerably heavier and bulkier than the DS51. If you do get the larger strobe, the 161 is probably worth the extra, particularly for night dives. If you have plans for wide angle in the future, the DS51 is possibly a bit low on light although it might pair with a more powerful unit as fill in. You might want to look at other manufacturer's strobes which are lighter but just as powerful as the DS160 but Ike housing and strobe is a sweet combination for TTL.
  20. I'm fairly sure that with the 450D you won't be able to take a shot at all if focus isn't achieved. If you are hearing that little beep after half depressing the shutter, the camera thinks it has found focus. What port are you using. USM isn't very important, just quieter and a few milliseconds faster - more about marketing in my opinion. You will get much crisper results from a lens without adapters. If you possibly can, get a dedicated wide angle lens. The Tokina 10-17 fish eye is a great lens - crisp, close focus and relatively economic. I also like the Tokina 11-16 rectilinear but it's not as fashionable on here.
  21. Yes, I use the 8" dome with 5510.22 for the 11-16. I think the above shots were taken with a +2 dioptre but sometimes I use it without.
  22. It's not such a fashionable lens as the 10-17 FE but I use it often in preference. Focus is quick and optically sharp, maybe a little softer at the corners. Good for wrecks and other subjects where you want to avoid the barrel distortion.
  23. Wonderful images Alex. I really like the anemone tips.
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