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Everything posted by Balrog

  1. I wouldn't be surprised that you've just worn the poor thing out Alex
  2. Most of the recognised books make the point that much of what we see underwater cannot be successfully photographed and this may be a case in point. That's not to say that the shot shouldn't be taken, just that it will never make a great image. I personally enjoyed looking at the detail of the subject for a couple of minutes so something may have has been achieved. As said, the lighting is a little flat, maybe the 'Edge' inward lighting may have improved it if you couldn't wait for the subjects to re-position themselves. As it is a healthy dose of vignette might bring the subject more to the fore.
  3. You may find your D700 a step too cumbersome for your current diving skills. It's easy to let your camera take your attention away from the diving. You need something you can tether and just let go of to focus on the more important business of staying alive and not kicking hell out of the reef. If you want to spend some money and also improve your picture quality, suggest you get a strobe/flash for your P3 - one that is ultimately compatible with an SLR set up. 2p EDIT Actually the first step in the right direction is probably a copy of Martin Edge's book - The Underwater Photographer. .
  4. If you leave them together for too long, they tend to stay that way despite your best efforts At least back them off half a turn after you've finished your day - but don't forget to screw them back together again. Probably best to disassemble to avoid accident. They don't need to be over tight, the slightest nip will do. Its a piston type O ring seal rather than a compression gasket type.
  5. Yes, it's all about composition. Most of us can get exposure and lighting more or lest right - if not in camera, in post. I'd like to comment on yours Loftus but can't really make anything constructive. It's good but not great.
  6. Thanks for the feedback. So combining both concepts I've spent a happy 1/2 hour playing in Lightroom. Added a lightening graduated filter with a blue cast diagonally top left. Added a lightening brush to the eye Cropped a bit off bottom right - although not as severely as Blade's version. Added a fistful of clarity and a touch more black with compensating fill light .. and here we go. Perhaps better but it all goes to show if you don't get it very nearly right in camera, you might as well not bother in post. (imo)
  7. Nice but on my monitor, the blue and red needs coming up a touch to make the foreground pop. Would have been great to see the diver a bit higher, his profile echoing that arch in the rock with a bit of green below him. 2c Tim
  8. I'm pretty sure the majority on here shoot full manual and it's not too difficult to get your head around. Just remember a couple of distance/aperture relationships, take your first guess and refine from there. It's not as if we ever get composition or lighting angles right first shot either. The only real advantage of TTL is the possibility of snatching a shot at something you weren't expecting.
  9. Yes, it's easy when you get in front of a computer on dry land - by which time it's too late So on a similar theme. I wanted to get this eel in its habitat and saw the opportunity for a few sparklies and light rays but.... he has too many random friends and the water colour is just horrible. So what to do.
  10. Agreed - but who am I also. Nice but there's just too much in it for me. A crop, portrait with the diver top right and the steering column coming diagonally through the frame might have more impact. The tyre is nice though, maybe the camera should have been positioned a little further right to make this crop/composition work. 2c Tim.
  11. As above I'm afraid. First thing is to get your rig working on land in a darkish room. Apart from the exposure issues it looks to me like your strobe might not be in synch with the shutter. What distance was the shot taken at. Start your dry test at a couple of feet from the subject in manual mode and note what exposure/strobe power works by reviewing the screen, then vary the distance and see what happens. Respect your strobe, it doesn't have the same cooling as it would underwater so one shot at a time, no more than 2 every minute on full power.
  12. My 2c - There's not much price advantage in the modular system even when you have a bucket full of lenses. Don't know about US but here in the UK, the cost of a complete standard flat port is pretty much the same cost as just a modular port extension without the port. In flat ports there is no difference in optical performance. With domes you have 8" in modular or 6" in the standard port series. The other option is the 4" Zen for fisheyes. The benefit of the modular ports comes when you want to pack them for travel, particularly the domes which take up a lot of space. I only have a 60mm in macro so chose a standard flat port for that and use the modular system dome with extensions for my mid to wide angle lenses.
  13. If they are indeed all like this, it's certainly put Huggyfot off my list of possible future suppliers. Shame they are attractive rigs. I don't think many would want to shell out for a housing that starts to rot after a few dives and that is a Huggy problem. If the standard housing is constructed in such a way that it needs an anode, they should fit one. 2c Tim
  14. Yes, looks like it - or less likely aluminium. Huggy will tell you. They've taken a bit of action too in just 10 dives. It looks like they were machined so doubt they were pitted when the housing was new. I can only say again that I think you should be looking for some source of stray current. The strobes with fibre optic are unlikely candidates, particularly if they have plastic ball ends.
  15. I see Frisco has a huggy housing for sale here http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41106&hl= Try a message to ask him about the condition of his buttons. I believe your corrosion is exceptional and the reason needs to be found.
  16. I have no experience at all with Huggy housings but that looks like an awful lot of electrolysis for 10 days use. I think I would be somehow checking for any stray currents. What strobes & connection are you using. A zinc anode on the housing will certainly help but won't get to the root of the problem.
  17. I feel sick. Whoever would buy such a thing, let alone the people who make them.
  18. For the same light output (in lumens) the illuminance will vary roughly as the ratio of the sin of half of the angles ie Sin(A/2) / Sin(B/2) So yes comparing 50 deg with 25 deg the ratio is 1.95. Comparing 90 deg with 25 deg, the ratio is 3.26
  19. Yes Aigar, because it is a piston type seal rather than a compression seal, it must have the correct diameter in both the the housing and the port. If the diameter is smaller at the 3 places where it was picked out of the mould then it will leak. Unfortunately you will have to return it to Ikelite as a manufacturing fault. I hope they give you good service and you are not without it for long. If you do not have a local dealer and have to ship it back, perhaps a good email with some photos might speed up the replacement.
  20. You need to polish that streak off. As long as you are confident there is no dust or grit, just buff it with a clean dry soft cloth.
  21. I don't think that's right. Looks like it's been ejected from the mould before it's cool enough. The important part is of course at the O ring seating, not the extreme end of the port. I would be going back to the dealer or Ike direct with that.
  22. It's a fairly similar concept. As you raise the digital ISO you will decrease the dynamic range and get more electronic noise - which equates to grain.
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