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Everything posted by Balrog

  1. Or you could take your life in your hands and fill it using a whip from another tank. Not as scary as it sounds because the pressures will equalise between the tanks giving you only half pressure. Be good for another 5 years.
  2. Hi Simon - They all do that Sir. At first it seems a little worrying and indeed it is perhaps not the best design on the surface. The seal is a piston type O ring rather than a gasket arrangement and although loose, should be watertight. The water pressure below 2m will clamp the dome to the housing such that it is no longer possible to turn it. Of course dive the housing empty first time to check that manufacturing tolerances and finishes are all that they should be.
  3. Some good work there Bill with very interesting results. So LSD NiMH cells are a no-brainer for higher discharge rate use, despite their apparently lower nominal capacity.
  4. I am really surprised at the depth of feeling between housing brands that is coming out in this thread. Doing less than 100 dives a year, my choice to date has been Ike and I haven't updated my camera body for 4 years. That said if anyone chooses Nautie, Huggy, Subal or any other brand you care to mention with the exception of a plastic bag, I have no comment to make. They all do the same job of keeping your camera dry and having a window for the lens to look out of. I'm sure there's already enough information in this thread to point the OP towards his own process of making an informed choice without starting housing wars. Personally I think he would have been better off with Canon
  5. Blind Diver. Is your eyesight good enough to use a monocular viewfinder or would you intend to use the Live View feature of the D7000. If you are using the viewfinder then investment in the brightest and largest one you can find would seem to make sense. Some research will be needed but I believe many of them can be retro fitted to other housing makes including Ike.
  6. I'm no expert but if you are only shooting in clear pool water at a couple of feet, there should be plenty of light and little loss of reds. As on land, a flash may help with fill in. Would have said your bluish grey is more a function of white balance than lack of light. Shoot raw and colour balance in post process. Subject to composition needs, shoot wide to minimise the column of water between subject and camera.
  7. Congratulations to you both. Wishing you a happy and successful life together.
  8. I think a very good Christmas extra would be Martin Edge's book; The Underwater Photographer Published 10/02/2010, Publisher Focal Press, ISBN 9780240521640. Covers strobe positioning and just about everything else. Recognised on here as probably the most comprehensive 'how to'
  9. If you shoot raw only and want to review on your PC before importing to processing software, you might find it helpful to download the camera manufacturer's codec which allows raw files to be displayed in the standard windows viewer. eg for canon - http://software.canon-europe.com/software/0039964.asp?model=
  10. Let him come looking for you instead. Cash up front for the next job, them let him down as he did you.
  11. Going back to the flash powder beginnings in photography, it was about being able to produce a bright light when it was needed and being able to conveniently carry the energy source. Despite the changes in technology and the expectation of what is convenient, I guess the same applies today. If you want a constant light source equivalent to flash in beam angle, colour and intensity, expect it to need a heavier battery.
  12. I don't know about the particular one's you are looking at. I got some cheap HK ones from Ebay and they weren't as good as the likes of UCLS etc. The balls were pinned onto the arms and after a while, developed a couple of degrees of rotational slack. The clamps and balls seemed to gall a little more than the more expensive ones too. That said, they did the job and I still have them as spares in my kit - in fact I'm still using a couple of the clamps. This was on DS160s with 12" + 9" arms so clamping loads, particularly out of the water were quite high. EDIT Ah yes, these were the ones. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/nyxell-UWphotogear
  13. :eek: 24 sets of batteries. What do you do with them all - or shouldn't I ask lol If you don't have them already might I suggest a few of these plastic cases http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-x-Hard-Plastic-Cas...=item4aa668c952
  14. Hi Tim To specifically answer your question, if you leave the LCD showing capacity it will display 'Full' when the refresh cycles are complete. Pressing the Display button and cycling round back to capacity will briefly show you the achieved capacity before it changes back to reading 'Full' A number of my older battery sets have shown a good 3-400mAh improvement and it's surprising what it will do to condition a new set too. You will also get to know the true capacity rather than the often over inflated manufacturer's claims I have to admit that when I first got the charger I went through my sets using the 500mA charge rate. - halves the time. Then did them again at 200mA before my next trip.
  15. Leaving the strobes on TTL will allow you to manually adjust the strobe power from the buttons on the housing (once you have selected manual mode on the housing buttons of course). In this case both strobes will fire at the same power; the slave will just echo anything the master does If you want to fire the strobes at different powers then you need to use the manual controls on each strobe. In this case it doesn't matter what the housing is set to. Its just a synch fire signal and any quench signal from the housing will be ignored by the strobes.
  16. Good stuff. So a couple of happy weeks ahead going through all your batteries then. Remember to set the charge rate before the function. You can't change it afterwards. Tim
  17. Probably the most reliable and rugged drives are the solid state type but they are only realistically priced in smaller sizes just yet - eg 128GB for £190 http://www.misco.co.uk/applications/Search...&CatId=3635 A 500GB might be around £900 Put it into a caddy eg http://www.misco.co.uk/applications/Search...&CatId=2887. The caddy would also be suitable for repairing your drive with the dodgy USB if it is the laptop 2.5" size but you can get similar caddys for 3.5" desktop format.
  18. Wow a 1700ma charge rate. We've all been there wanting to quickly pump some juice into our batteries and when it comes to missing the boat or being kind to our cells, there's no contest. Thanks, think I might have to get one of these. What does it weigh? I bet you could roast chestnuts on those cells though.
  19. The bag might be good for 300' but whether you i-phone gets crushed is another matter. I strongly suspect there won't be enough light to use it below 20' anyway. I see what you are trying to achieve but you would be far better off with a cheap compact imo.
  20. Whilst they are not all equal, most batteries should give a good enough performance. I suspect your rechargeables are suffering from the memory effect and need to be conditioned to restore them to full capacity. I can't praise the La Crosse BC-700 charger highly enough for automatically doing this and keeping your batteries in tip top condition. It is fully electronically controlled and has individual LCDs to tell you what is happening to each of the 4 batteries. There are 3 selectable charge rates and 4 modes of operation. The charge mode just does what it says. The discharge mode discharges then fully recharges. The refresh mode performs the discharge mode multiple times measuring the capacity at each cycle and repeats it until there is no further increase in the battery capacity - expect this to take a couple of days. Finally the test mode measures the battery capacity. Not only that but it does this individually for each cell, conditioning each according to it's needs so if your set of 4 has somehow got out of synch, it stands a good chance of bringing them back to a matched condition - failing that it will at least identify a dodgy cell. All that said, I wouldn't want to travel with it; the charger is light but the power brick that plugs into it is not. With all my batteries pre-prepared to top condition, I take a GP M510 travel charger. It will quick charge 4 AA cells, weighs 90g (3.5 oz) and comes with US, Euro and UK snap in plugs (like the Ike strobe chargers) As far as batteries are concerned, Ansmann are fine but the newer LSD NiMH cells such as Eneloop have a lower self discharge rate and stay fresh for longer, the down side being that they are not available in the higher capacities.
  21. Yes, I do the same. Best to keep data on a dedicated drive imo and a NAS box can be kept off the desk out of harm's way. The challenge with USB and LR is getting the same drive letter assigned every time you connect it - unless someone has found a way of telling LR what the new letter is ???? I had a NAS controller go up in smoke, one disk was fubar but the other mirror disk stayed good. Got a new box (with bigger disks - as you do), put the old disk in one slot and copied across. Then installed the second new disk and re-built the mirror.
  22. Just my (unproven) thoughts - Once you have triggered the first hidden slave, its likely in most arrangements that the optical sensors on the Inons will be able to pick this up. So you only need to sort a primary slave strobe and sensor.
  23. Yes, absolutely fantastic presentation. We all thoroughly enjoyed it and brought home some exciting thoughts. The drive home was buzzing with all sorts of plans. Thanks Alex and Martin Tim & Fran
  24. I take just one converter plug and a short 4 or 6 way extension socket so that all equipment & laptop can be run from just one socket. As above, check out your charger input voltage, it would be surprising to find a current one which didn't cater for 100-240V.
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