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Everything posted by Robin-D

  1. great shots! Have to go to work now, will read the report in the evening, tnx!
  2. Hi Chris, I use 4 large stix floats around my each of second strobe arms, these are in my case, 30 cm long nauticam arms. Around these floats, I strapped 2 elastic bungee loops, pulled pretty tight. When I don't use my inserts, I put them under these tight bungee's, so they lay on top of the floats. This worked nice so far, even in currents. I usually only take 1 or 2 inserts. I wouldn't try this method with all 4 supplied inserts I guess. Another method would be to store them in the pockets on my wet or dry suit, where I store the SMB, but for me storing it on my strobe arm worked nicely so far. One arm has the insert for the big hole's, the other for the small hole's. Never used the other one's so far
  3. If I'm diving with the LSD Snoot, I never take it off. I use Inon Z240 strobe's that require pretty precise positioning of the snoot, due to non central aiming light. Not something I want to do underwater, If I come across a subject that I dont want to snoot, I just use my second strobe, that has no snoot on it. Works for me. Btw the snoot has a little piece of cord on it, where you could attach it with a double ender. Same goes for the inserts that come with it.
  4. looks like you made the very best of a broken strobe trigger. What lighting did you use for the macro shots? Or did you use the lights in wide angle as well? anyway looks nice and hope to go there one day as well!
  5. hey! I use a lowepro photo backpack as carry on myself, a size backpack that is allowed as carry on. depending on my destination and the weight im allowed to take as carry on, it takes: -housing -camera -lenses (3-4 max) -strobe's. As the weight you can transport is usually an issue, I use a sturdy (but lightweight) suitcase for the rest of my clothes etc. It also holds my strobe arms, retra snoot, cable's, ports. I usually wrap my (dome) port in several t-shirts. If weight of carry-on is a big issue, I add strobe's, without battery's to this suitcase as well, also wrapped in clothes. I make sure that these items cant bump into each other. Diving gear is put in a sturdy but lightweight camel bag. Regulators wrapped inside diving suit. Worked for me, its relatively lightweight and never had any issues with damage, although my suitcase looks like its been hit by a bus!
  6. Hello, I use (nauticam) 8 and 12 inch arms myself. Not really do I need the length for wide angle, but it allows me to use several stix floats on each arm. I add 2 jumbo floats on the 8 inch and 4 large floats on the 12 inch, to make my camera neutral. With shorter arms, this probably isnt possible, or the floats are so close to the clamps that you cant tuck in your strobe's. It also adds some extra length for back lighting and it allows me to move my strobe with retra snoot pretty far from my subject, if I want to light a bigger area. If still feels very stable underwater. The downside I guess, is that when tucked in, the setup is still pretty large, so it might be restricted in cracks etc.
  7. As shown in the image you added, the laser doesn't point at the centre of the retra beam, so I doubt that this would make life much easier. I agree that it sometimes can be though to get the aim correct, specially in the bright tropical shallows. Makes you wonder "did I even turn on the strobe" at times
  8. Hi Jef, I was in Abu Dabbab a few weeks ago, I used only the Tokina 10-17 for wide angle and a 105 for macro myself. We didn't have luck on Elphinstone, alot of current, 20 liveaboards and a sea full of divers and no sharks. Had the Tokina 10-17 with me, but with so much divers in the water it was far from ideal to get some nice shots. We did have luck on Sataya, where there was a big group of dolphins. I used the Tokina there as well, mostly on 15-17 mm, Dolphins stayed in the area for quite some time, sometimes getting really close (like 1 meter away). Hardest part was not to include alot of snorkellers. Shot there without strobe's, on a fast shutter speed (1//500) to stop the movement, as those dolphins are really fast. Ended up with mostly sharp pictures. Had to bump up my iso to 400+ in order to get those fast shutter speeds (on a sunny day). I would take the tokina 10-17 lens again if I would go there, (without teleconverter). If the dolphins are there, you will probably get close. Placed some pictures here, most of the macro pictures are taken directly in Abu Dabbab bay, the wide angle shots are mostly taken on the reefs a few miles of the coast (Abu Dabbab IV and Um Halhala where our favorite's there) https://www.gaviiformes.nl/2018-abu-dabbab/ good luck and have fun! Robin
  9. Hi Mark, I'm currently using the Retra snoot. Although I haven't used it a lot yet, I must say I really like it. I used a "normal" snoot before, but I like the Retra much more. Since I have a Retra, the normal snoot hasn't been used any more. With a normal snoot, I had to open my aperture towards F11-F13 while shooting at full power, that much light was lost. With the Retra, I can use apertures like I'm used to when I'm not using a snoot, the light loss is minimal. Because the light loss is far less then with a normal snoot, you can also see the focus light much better. This makes aiming your snoot a lot easier, specially during the daytimes. As for the weight: this is mostly a "problem" out of the water, underwater the Retra is negative for sure, but not very much. I never take my Retra off the Z240 underwater, when I want to take a picture without a snoot, I turn on my second strobe (also Z240) good luck with your choise, Robin
  10. Hello, Are u sure the magnet switch is pushed in? If not, it will allways fire on the same output in my setup (subal d300 and 2x inon z240). Robin
  11. Hey Folks, just wanted to let u know I just uploaded a series of photo's from oktober 2008 Egypt, Dahab, first tropical trip with my D300. http://www.gaviiformes.nl/public_html/medi...id=2&page=1 greetingzz Robin
  12. Hello all, recently I got myself the Inons-Z240, after one of my sea&sea's finaly died after for a long lifetime. Inon supply's both -0,5 and -1,5 diffusors for the strobe. Are there situations that someone would prefer the -1,5 over the -0,5? I havent been able to get the Inons wet yet, it seems logical to me to attach the -0,5 in order to maintain most of its power. Is there someone who can tell a little more about these 2 diffusors? Specialy when or why he/she prefers the -1,5? thanks in advance, greetzz Robin
  13. are u absolutely sure that the auto focus mode selector was not in the auto-area AF? (backside of camera, the autofocus mode switch on the big square). Problem sounds a little like that? greetz Robin
  14. Hi Karen, I just did a quick test with my 10.5 fisheye topside, at apperture F13. It seems to me that if u focus on the coral in front of you, a diver this far (30 ft) behind it will never be in tack sharp. However, if u focus on something about 9 feet away from u, both the foreground and the diver will be sharp. perhaps you could try this out next time in the water? You could try it out topside like I did and see if the results will be better. looking forward to hear your opinion, greetz Robin
  15. hello came back from the red sea 2 weeks ago, used the straight finder with my subal d300. Realy liked the straight finder, big and bright and easy to switch between landscape and portrait photograpy, no need to rotate the viewfinder. Only in situations where I wanted to point my housing up towards the surface in Wide angle I sometimes thought "here the angled finder would be nice". Would love to hear some user reports from the angled viewfinder though... good luck with your choise Robin
  16. when I first started UW photography I got myself a nice manual focus subal port for the 60 mm, which I actualy tried once for testing and never again. Even in murky dutch waters the autofocus sees much better then me! If I had to buy a new short macro lens it would be the AF-S version.. and a nice focus light I do have to say I still like the sharp images the "old" 60 mm produces, so wont upgrade.. I think! greetzz Robin
  17. Hello Andre, Dont wanna be a pixel peeper, however, in therms of corner sharpness; I tested the tokina 10-17 at 10 vs the nikon 10.5 topside, brick wall. At F8-F11 there isnt much difference between the two, however, a little more wide open the Nikon smokes the Tokina in the corners, the Nikon is alot sharper. 100% corner of the nikon: http://www.gaviiformes.nl/public_html/medi...=105&sort=0 100% corner of the tokina: http://www.gaviiformes.nl/public_html/medi...=106&sort=0 there is a little difference in perspective between the two, as reported before, crop isnt an exact match because of that. both have the same amount of in-camera sharpening (no auto sharpening), taken only minutes apart, from a decent tripod. just my thought. greetzz Robin
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