bnf-austin

I used split fins the first time I went to Cozumel and dealt with strong currents…. I switched after that experience to solid blade fins. When I dove the Maldives with strong currents, three of us were diving OMS Slipstream fins (Tech style solid blade fin) and non of us had problems maneuvering for shots that we wanted to make. Since then, I would recommend the Deep 6 Gear Eddy Fins, since they are just as effective but slightly narrower/shorter which makes them easier to pack for travel. Another good option would be the xDEEP fins, since they come in several material stiffnesses, allowing you to tailor your fin to your preferred style with a medium or stiff fin.

if still available, I would be interested. thanks

Having dove the Maldives, I would recommend the deep 6 fins, or some OMS slipstreams. Definitely would not want to fight the currents wit split fins. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

l love mine. Previously dove the Tusa split fins, the Scubapro Twinjet Max split fin, the Hollis F2 and finally landed on the old style slipstreams and pretty much wore them out, so I bought the new style in white. Another possible suggestion would the IST military style fin: http://istsports.com/web/category.php?id_category=60 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If. you spring for the Nauticam housing you gain in functionality and depth limits. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you decide to go the 12-50mm route, I have two of those lenses and the nauticam port / gear to use with it. I dove the 12-50 mm for a couple trips. It is very versatile and I got a bunch of great shots with it. I eventually upgraded my lenses to the Zuiko pro level lenses and dome ports, so I am looking to sell the combination of 12-50mm + flat port + gear as a package. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I own the Olympus OM-D with two 12-50 mm lenses and the nauticam housing with the associated port/ gear. I bought my whole system, with a spare OM-D body used for under $2500 at the time. SO it doesn’t have to be insanely expensive to get a very versatile and easy to travel / dive with rig. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

From experience: - ULCS and Nauticam strive arms are very good. - in the USA, I would pick up the idas strobe arms that perform just as well as the Nauticam for a fraction of the price (included is an example link): https://www.opticaloceansales.com/i-das/#/product/488 - on the other hand, I have both the idas and Nauticam clamps, and prefer the Nauticam and ULCS ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have never sold anything through wetpixel either, but using the private messaging function, I agreed on a price with a seller and then processed the transaction via PayPal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you haven't sold it yet, I would be interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I recently flew from TX (USA) to the Bahamas and back with my full OM-D / Nauticam Housing / arms / strobes / lenses / ports / dome port setup in a carry on backpack and they ran it through the X-ray twice but did not have any problems. My wife's backpack had our regs, dive computers and masks. Along with my 13" iPad Pro with keyboard and her 9" iPad Pro with keyboard... Again they took a second look, but didn't give us any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My S&S 110a have internal focus lights. But the light and motion red spot 800 - 1200 range lights work well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad to hear it. I bought several items from Piranha Dive over the years. Always had a good experience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You may want to look at the Hollis DG03 bungee mount. It may well fit your oceanic computer, since they are made by the same manufacturer and they tweak the firmware and trim colors between the various "brands" to differentiate them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This thread has been really fun to follow from both an engineering and an UW photographer perspective. Have you considered: - Adding a second latch above the existing one, or centering the single one so that it is distributing the pressure on the "back view port" more evenly to compress the O-ring, - You also mentioned having acrylic stress cracks where the screws go into your back view port. Have you considered machining the back port out of two parts: an aluminum frame and an acrylic window bonded into the center of the frame. That would help you again distribute the O-ring compression more evenly due to reduced deflection in the aluminum vs. acrylic materials. - Adding an off the shelf vacuum pressure detection circuit and building in the vacuum port into the top left side of your housing? Those enhancements could help avoid the minimal leaks that you mentioned above and alleviate your concern over acrylic failure at depth.