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bnf-austin

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Everything posted by bnf-austin

  1. l love mine. Previously dove the Tusa split fins, the Scubapro Twinjet Max split fin, the Hollis F2 and finally landed on the old style slipstreams and pretty much wore them out, so I bought the new style in white. Another possible suggestion would the IST military style fin: http://istsports.com/web/category.php?id_category=60 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If. you spring for the Nauticam housing you gain in functionality and depth limits. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. If you decide to go the 12-50mm route, I have two of those lenses and the nauticam port / gear to use with it. I dove the 12-50 mm for a couple trips. It is very versatile and I got a bunch of great shots with it. I eventually upgraded my lenses to the Zuiko pro level lenses and dome ports, so I am looking to sell the combination of 12-50mm + flat port + gear as a package. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. I own the Olympus OM-D with two 12-50 mm lenses and the nauticam housing with the associated port/ gear. I bought my whole system, with a spare OM-D body used for under $2500 at the time. SO it doesn’t have to be insanely expensive to get a very versatile and easy to travel / dive with rig. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. From experience: - ULCS and Nauticam strive arms are very good. - in the USA, I would pick up the idas strobe arms that perform just as well as the Nauticam for a fraction of the price (included is an example link): https://www.opticaloceansales.com/i-das/#/product/488 - on the other hand, I have both the idas and Nauticam clamps, and prefer the Nauticam and ULCS ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I have never sold anything through wetpixel either, but using the private messaging function, I agreed on a price with a seller and then processed the transaction via PayPal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. If you haven't sold it yet, I would be interested. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. I recently flew from TX (USA) to the Bahamas and back with my full OM-D / Nauticam Housing / arms / strobes / lenses / ports / dome port setup in a carry on backpack and they ran it through the X-ray twice but did not have any problems. My wife's backpack had our regs, dive computers and masks. Along with my 13" iPad Pro with keyboard and her 9" iPad Pro with keyboard... Again they took a second look, but didn't give us any issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. My S&S 110a have internal focus lights. But the light and motion red spot 800 - 1200 range lights work well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Glad to hear it. I bought several items from Piranha Dive over the years. Always had a good experience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. You may want to look at the Hollis DG03 bungee mount. It may well fit your oceanic computer, since they are made by the same manufacturer and they tweak the firmware and trim colors between the various "brands" to differentiate them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. This thread has been really fun to follow from both an engineering and an UW photographer perspective. Have you considered: - Adding a second latch above the existing one, or centering the single one so that it is distributing the pressure on the "back view port" more evenly to compress the O-ring, - You also mentioned having acrylic stress cracks where the screws go into your back view port. Have you considered machining the back port out of two parts: an aluminum frame and an acrylic window bonded into the center of the frame. That would help you again distribute the O-ring compression more evenly due to reduced deflection in the aluminum vs. acrylic materials. - Adding an off the shelf vacuum pressure detection circuit and building in the vacuum port into the top left side of your housing? Those enhancements could help avoid the minimal leaks that you mentioned above and alleviate your concern over acrylic failure at depth.
  13. I agree with Trimix25 re the Inon AD mount. I have an old Olympus that has that setup to allows shooting with the standard lens, converting to either macro or WA by mounting the AD appropriate lenses. Works great, you have the AD lenses setup on the strobe arm and you can switch back and forth on the fly. I loved how convenient that was before switching to my OM-D / Nauticam / Zen Dome setup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I got some of these connectors: http://www.xit404.com/collections/fiber-mounts/products/fiber-optic-connector-inon-to-sea-sea-kit And keep them with me for emergency field repair. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Troporobo, I mostly made my floats as a DIY project for the fun of it and it cost me less than $10. I won't disagree that the Stix floats are excellent and an overall good value, and plan on getting some for my strobe arms before my next trip. At the same time, I'm planning on taking the floats that I already made, running a bungee through them and converting them into a macro port collar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Timz, I read the write up that you linked above; I think that is very well done, and would recommend following the recommendation to use the PVC foam and spraying them after completing the shaping of the floats. I may try that myself. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. Actually at depths greater than 35', the quiver foam deformed enough that I lost most of the inserts. But the floats themselves worked just fine and made it much easier to tote the camera for multiple hours of diving each day. If you can find denser foam, that might work better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I love my OMS Slipstreams. They are a technical blade fin, but much lighter to travel with and easier to work in the water than the Scubapro Jet or the Hollis F1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I prefer shooting matched strobes, because of the consistency of the light output. On the other hand, having one stronger and on weaker strobe can also allow you to have nice / unique lighting effects. I would normally achieve that by turning down the matched strobes to a lower power setting or by aiming one strobe further out to barely provide edge covering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. @rtrski: It has been a while since I looked into this issue, but you may want to verify your company's Solidworks license terms. A lot of software vendors, instead of fighting the illegal copies, have moved to a model that specifically allows home use of a properly licensed work/office software. In particular, I believe that Microsoft has allowed this for their MS Office for several years. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. It appears that the Panasonic GX7 has a built in flash and hot shoe: From: http://www.adorama.com/alc/0014688/article/panasonic-lumix-dmc-gx7-guided-tour "Operating The Flash The GX7 has a small built-in flash as well as a hot shoe that can accommodate a larger flash that has a greater range and projects more light. The built-in flash is good for fill-flash in bright, sunny days, and when shooting nearby subjects. Flip it up and on by moving the on-off switch Access the flash options via the Q Menu and choose force flash on, on with red-eye reduction, slow-sync flash with or without red-eye. Slow Sync is great when you want a longer exposure to fill in the image with ambient light, creating a more natural look. You can also use this method to capture frozen and moving subjects, since the long exposure paired with an active subject can convey a strong sense of motion in your photos. This technique takes practice!" So, the question that comes to mind is: Does your housing support or can it be modified to support an e-TTL bulkhead? If your housing already has the bulkhead support, a hot shoe to e-TTL bulkhead, then an e-TTL sync cable may be your most straight forward and best performing option, since it would eliminate the need for the adapter entirely.
  22. Do you have the adapter set to fire on the pre-flash or the flash? Middle age S&S strobes (YS-110a for example) have a manual 1 and manual 2 settings as well as TTL. Depending on your camera you should be able to figure out whether you need to set your adapter to TTL, manual 1 or 2, to read the camera correctly and pass the right trigger timing to the YS-60 strobe, which may have to be set to slave. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. You make a couple of valid points: - Re thickest wetsuit / crush depth. I was actually thinking of the other extreme: My first BCD was a Dive Rite AL plate, deluxe harness and the old travel EXP wing. I dove that with Steel Worthington HP100s. My BCD would not float that tank at the surface, and I am slightly negatively buoyant. So, I had to wear a 5 mm wetsuit if I wanted to be positively buoyant on the surface, using that tank / BCD combination, obviously not comfortable to do in the summer heat in TX. So, I got used to wearing a thinner suit to account for the heat and finned on the surface.... - Re heaviest tank, yes, I did not clarify that tanks have varying swings in buoyancy when full vs. empty. For example my Faber LP85s are approximately 4.5 negative full and 2.5 lb if empty. So a 6 lb (or 12 lb if diving sidemount or backmounted doubles) swing in your weighting during a dive is not uncommon. I was simply trying to keep it to a basic answer :-).
  24. My old Intova SS4000 strobes had that: http://www.digitaldiver.com.au/shop/product/int-iss4000 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. What eBay seller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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