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OwenF last won the day on March 31

OwenF had the most liked content!

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About OwenF

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  • Location
    Leeds, UK

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000/D750
  • Camera Housing

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  1. Long shot but does anyone in the UK have the above they are looking to sell? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Hi all, Having considered a lot of options to replace my flooded D7000 ( D500, A7iii, A6400, GH5) I think I am settling on the GH5. It seems to fit my needs which is 50:50 stills/video in UK waters > 50m and caves. I mainly shoot wrecks, caves & divers but may do the odd squidgy thing. I will also be using it for video transect survey and photogrammetry. I’ve done a lot of research through the forums regarding lens/port choices, but looking for something confirmation on what I’m thinking. The top options, which seem applicable to my use are (in no particular order): - Pana 8mm in N85 4” dome. Good for stills - Tokina 10-17 + metabones. Possibly better for stills but complicated and more expensive. - 14-42 MkII + WWL. Good for video. Okay for stills? - Pana 8-18mm in 7” dome. Rectilinear option for stills. Fairly special use and perhaps not adding much to an 8mm fish and wet lens combo? I’m heading initially for the 8mm fisheye as I know a deal available locally. I think this would cover me for stills and video for a while. I think I’d then supplement later with the 14-42 + WWL as a better video option that would also give a zoom range for photos (wide-ish to semi-close). With these two choices, would I be correct that the converted tokina or 8-18mm would not significantly add anything? I’m mainly trying to avoid too many different port requirements and get a one size fits all (yea right!) but it seems no port/extensions would be compatible between these four options. Anything else I’m missing for my use? Thanks Owen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. My understanding is that it’s fundamentally photosynthesis, much the same as forests are carbon sinks. In the oceans, seagrass and plankton use CO2 and convert to oxygen. Plankton currently supplies something like 70% of atmospheric oxygen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. This is why there is a big effort looking into carbon sequestration. As you say, ceasing emissions isn’t enough, we actually need to extract it from the atmosphere. Albeit very low impact, divers can help with this. E.g. a seagrass restoration project that we in Project Baseline UK have recently supported. Perhaps divers need to reassess their objectives in diving. The ultimate achievement would be everyone diving carbon negative local initiatives, but settling for less carbon positive adventures may have to do. Interestingly Covid has eradicated at least 3 jet fuelled trips I would have otherwise taken in the last 12-18 months. Talk about Mother Nature restoring the balance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks Adam. If I don’t reach a solution I may take you up on that for a project week we are running in August. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Looking for a deep housing for my GoPro4 as a stop gap between recent camera flood and whatever comes next. Does anyone have one not getting used? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. @ScottAudette I am looking at pushing the button on an A6400 and would appreciate if you are able to elaborate on this. One intended use for me is photogrammetry. I would usually take a picture (manual exposure & manual strobe) every 1-2 seconds. (I need to check separately if A6400 has in-built intervalometer) From your testing, would you say the Turtle is capable of functioning in manual/WL, single servo, with an image every 1-2 seconds? This would be a deal breaker on the A6400 for me as I know that in-built flashes struggle to maintain this for +100 images (recycle time not to mention battery life) I very briefly had a turtle for Nikon, which did appear to do this, however i flooded it on the first dive out!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Have sent a PM Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I’m also quite interested in the outcome of this. Interestingly Easydives ‘port finder’ on their website suggests the E PZ 16-50mm needs the shortest port cap with no extension. So presumably, you’d just need the M67 thread adaptor you’ve linked to go on the port cap? Have you tried it with no extensions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Slightly reinvigorating this thread, as on Sunday I flooded my housing in the big salt. Confirmed dead: Turtle LED trigger (first outing!) Leak sentinel D7000 Tokina 10-17 Status uncertain: Aquatica housing Kenko 1.4 adaptor Despite having invested in Aquatica (mostly second hand) I’m considering this a prompt to change direction, as per the premise of my original post. Given the type/style of photo & video I’ve indicated before, I’m looking for system recommendations that would cover: - UK/Europe availability of parts/spares/servicing/support - preference towards WA lens options rather than macro - photo and video capable (any improvement on d7000 in either field is desired) I’m leaning toward GH4/5 or Sony ARIII Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. It does appear that I’d fit an extended LED in there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Does anyone have any direct experience of the i-turtle led trigger with the Aquatica fibre optic ports shown in the image below? I’m concerned that the metal tab will prevent the LED from being attached. I can’t check at the moment, but I think the metal tab/ring is what secures the port to the housing. E.g. I cannot take it off. Are the i-turtle LEDs small enough I could squeeze them in? Lastly, does anyone know who/where I-turtle triggers can be sourced in the UK? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Does anyone have the above they’d be looking to sell? # 45281 (new part no.) or # 4118.1 (old part no.) I’m based in the UK Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. For clarity, I am happy with my setup pending a full scale test in the big salty. FWIW I have found the in-water weight of the Scubalamps to be higher than reported (no surprises- just like overstating lumens!). I have previously tried the ‘calculation method’ and found there is no substitute for actually putting the stuff in the water. The lamp float is a ‘modified’ commercial fishing float. EVA foam good to 1000m or something. Given the stealth look with some hobby paint. I’ll post another pic of the full setup later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I’ve recently been playing around on this theme (in the bath only so far) Trim weights added to 8” acrylic dome. This in combination with a ~300g net buoyancy arm that spans between the handles just above the eye piece, puts the housing just below the waterline. There is still maybe a 30degree tilt upwards from horizontal, man those acrylic are floaty! This is with no strobes/arms by the way. I have separately weighted one ‘arm system’ that comprises a Inon z240 and a LFM video light on a triple ball clamp. These are on 8” (narrow) + 6” (fat) float arms. This ‘arm system’ is about 200g negative. With the pair added to the slightly positive housing, I’m hoping I’ll end up with the whole thing neutral and maybe a tad negative. Too big to float the whole system freely in the bath, so trial run at Capernwray soon! My off camera video lights (Scubalamp v6k pro) are very negative (about 750g + in real life). Carrying two has a massive impact on my weighting, so I’ve been trying to find a way to overcome this. Enter the stealth (not) float! It results in ~100g net negative in fresh (the bath). The shape is an added bonus as if I lay them down in a rocky area, a bit of weight added to the back (shown here as a finger) will point the light upwards, avoiding a hotspot on the ground. They are a bit big, but hopefully better than acting as an anchor! Any feedback or ideas welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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