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OwenF

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Everything posted by OwenF

  1. Does anyone have the above they’d be looking to sell? # 45281 (new part no.) or # 4118.1 (old part no.) I’m based in the UK Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. For clarity, I am happy with my setup pending a full scale test in the big salty. FWIW I have found the in-water weight of the Scubalamps to be higher than reported (no surprises- just like overstating lumens!). I have previously tried the ‘calculation method’ and found there is no substitute for actually putting the stuff in the water. The lamp float is a ‘modified’ commercial fishing float. EVA foam good to 1000m or something. Given the stealth look with some hobby paint. I’ll post another pic of the full setup later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’ve recently been playing around on this theme (in the bath only so far) Trim weights added to 8” acrylic dome. This in combination with a ~300g net buoyancy arm that spans between the handles just above the eye piece, puts the housing just below the waterline. There is still maybe a 30degree tilt upwards from horizontal, man those acrylic are floaty! This is with no strobes/arms by the way. I have separately weighted one ‘arm system’ that comprises a Inon z240 and a LFM video light on a triple ball clamp. These are on 8” (narrow) + 6” (fat) float arms. This ‘arm system’ is about 200g negative. With the pair added to the slightly positive housing, I’m hoping I’ll end up with the whole thing neutral and maybe a tad negative. Too big to float the whole system freely in the bath, so trial run at Capernwray soon! My off camera video lights (Scubalamp v6k pro) are very negative (about 750g + in real life). Carrying two has a massive impact on my weighting, so I’ve been trying to find a way to overcome this. Enter the stealth (not) float! It results in ~100g net negative in fresh (the bath). The shape is an added bonus as if I lay them down in a rocky area, a bit of weight added to the back (shown here as a finger) will point the light upwards, avoiding a hotspot on the ground. They are a bit big, but hopefully better than acting as an anchor! Any feedback or ideas welcome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Would you be able to share the details of how you created the 67mm filter mounts on your lights? What lights are they etc? I’m also interested on what depth range you have tested these filter combinations. Am I right you have used these in UK green water? Are the threaded camera filters on a DSLR? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Does anyone have the following they would be willing to sell? Ideally UK based. Aquatica: - 4 inch mini dome - Zoom gear for Tokina 10-17mm (with or without teleconverter. Interested in both) - Zoom gear for Tokina 11-16mm - Port extension for Tokina 10-17mm (~16mm I think) Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks! I might take you up when we’re allowed out to play. Thought it appears I’d need to find an extension for it to work properly. Hmm, yes I follow you with the likely limitations. ‘De-fishing’ was a benefit I’d hoped for, so I’ll see what that looks like vs. the raw 10-17 Seeing as I sprung for the extension that supports the 10-17+TC or the 11-16, I guess I’ll just try those out initially with the dome I’ve got. But sounds like if I want full advantage of the 10-17+TC I’ll have to get the 4”dome. Or the right extension for the 10-17 only. Or both [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks for the replies. They have clarified a few points I wasn’t 100% on e.g. TC effect on focus distance. I have just pushed the button on a 18453 (28.5mm) extension as it was available used in the UK. Buying Aquatica new in the UK was troublesome before Brexit and I’m suspecting even worse now. I think I’ve found a 1.4x Pro 300 DGX, which I’ll try with the 10-17, the above extension and my 8” dome to see if I like the CFWA style. I might then add a 11-16 in the near future for a rectilinear option for photogrammetry and video. If I really like CFWA I may look at the mini dome, but I’m hoping the 10-17 + 1.4 combo in 8” is versatile enough for my shooting. I’m looking forward to trying this out as I still can’t quite picture in my mind what the TC does to the image. I’ve seen plenty of the typical ‘exaggerated foreground’ with fish, but I’m wondering how this will change my typical shot style: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Looking for some specific advice. Having decided I cannot justify full upgrade at the moment, i'm hoping to maximise what I have. Current gear: D7000 in Aquatica housing. Tokina 10-17mm. 8inch dome. No extensions. Typical usage: UK wrecks (north coast > 40m) so typically dark and silty. Caves (france/ mexico/ florida). I am typically WA, usually trying to fill the frame with something close to get best of strobes and mitigate the silt/washout. I take photos for three purposes: hero shots of buddies; photogrammetry; and for survey purposes (squidgy stuff and environment). I capture video (these days more when needed for a specific project) and am trying to setup strobes/video lights in pairs. This not only allows me to switch photo/video on a dive, but is useful for photogrammetry. I have been contemplating getting a port extension as I feel that i'm lacking sharpness in majority of images (at a range of f/). I'm guessing its because Aquatica recommend a min ~16mm ext. for the 10-17mm. However, i've also been wondering about the 1.4x teleconvertor and the associated extension. I am wondering what this will do - I think narrows the field of view and allows closer focusing? Will I notice the loss of the wide end vs. gains in focus distance/sharpness? Lastly i'm thinking whether a 4inch mini-dome would be a good addition, in combination with one of the above, to reduce bulk and help balance the rig. Would I be undoing any image quality gains by reducing dome size with this particular lens. I did contemplate a Tokina 11-16mm, but it seems the 10-17mm is far more versatile. Apologies for long intro, but: given my use case, would any of the above give me any improvements/reductions in image quality or versatility from where I'm currently at? P.s. I know this is ancient tech and there a loads of historic threads on some of this combination. But i'm looking for up-to-date and specific opinions. Thanks
  9. I would say my activity is close to 50/50 photo/video. I’m no UW Roger Deakins, but I’d say i’m at a level above throwing a few clips together in GoPro studio. I’ve made a few videos recently for the various projects I’m involved in (Ghost Fishing, Project Baseline) as well as a couple of ‘fun vids’ to keep up morale in the community. I (perhaps wrongly) think that people are desensitised to content in general. Even photos, which take little energy to absorb, I think most people just ‘like’ and then move on quickly. Video even worse. The analytics on a recent (popular) video I posted said that the average viewer switched off after 33 secs. It was a 7 minute video. The amount of time cutting, colouring, sound designing (if needed) and trying to encode an optimal file size/quality output is totally disproportionate the reward in the amateur arena. That’s not including effort to capture the content. I can not justify the obscene cost of owning and housing the hardware capable of even half decent UW video. I’m still on a d7000 UW and a d750 topside. This further leads to a feeling of disappointment at the end of the process, when all the work is let down by shitty codecs and poor dynamic range. If it wasn’t for the fact I really enjoy the process, I’d probably give up on video all together. If my photos are only looked at for 3 secs then never again, at least it only took me 3 minutes to create it. TL:DR 1) good video is time consuming for the reward, so perhaps less amateurs are doing it 2) good video equipment is hideously expensive, so perhaps less amateurs are doing it 3) social media means people have short attention spans, so perhaps video amateurs don’t bother Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Would you consider splitting? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Here in UK waters (North Sea/Scotland lochs) with commonly low visibility, I’ve always been nervous of slow shutter accentuating particulate. I’m starting to wonder if I need to explorer going slower though. Not mine, but I guy I follow for Norway has been posting some slow shutter/light painting stuff on his Insta: https://www.instagram.com/p/CLaGjoThBwn/?igshid=1kjg58v2x7u07 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I’m looking for an Aquatica extension port #48456 (for the Tokina 10-17). I’m based in the UK. Bonus points to anyone who has experience of the Tokina with/ and without/ this extension. It’s recommended on the port list, but I believe it’s commonly not used. I’m noticing an overall softness to my images without it, even with an 8” dome. Will I gain much? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Left hip D-ring on a short cord loop off the handle. Then park it up on the back of/between your legs. If using lots of stages, a short stage leash helps extend it a little further around Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Great images! I recognise Shane’s boat on the last image of the article. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Unless your name begins with ‘A’ and ends in ‘medes’, you may struggle. But seriously, you need to add something with positive buoyancy. That might be in the form of ‘stix’ style foam or a bouyancy arm. You could attach an arm between the two posts rather than sticking out to the sides. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. I was merely pointing out I have the opposite problem to you...no ambient light interference and too much contrast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Try the dark, low vis waters of my usual shooting environment in the Clyde Estuary (UK)! I found, through much frustration, that I have to dial the monitor brightness down to the absolute minimum as it was giving me a false sense of good exposure. Likewise I use a flat picture profile. Now use the histogram review but the image review itself is then pretty small Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Sorry, by optical port, I meant the part for attaching fibre optic cables for firing strobes. Part number is #18935. Have updated original post to clarify Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Looking for a fibre optic port for Aquatica housing (AD7000 to be specific). Part #18935 Options to buy in UK are very limited but thought I’d cast a net for used before having to import from US/Canada. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Pm sent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Do you have photos and any idea on shipping cost to UK? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Does anyone know where in the UK stocks Aquatica parts now that camerasunderwater appears to be no more? Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
  23. I've heard (and tried) that if you start with the dome fully immersed, then take the picture immediately after raising above the waterline, the droplets won't have formed. Obviously frame composition is difficult but with WA I've found it to work pretty well. Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
  24. Forgot to say, items recieved well packaged and good comms. Thanks! Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
  25. As per title, is anyone selling a Tokina 11-16mm (Nikon mount) and/or Aquatica #48453 extension port? In UK ideally Made a snap decision and looking to pull something together for a trip next week [emoji51] Sent from my Lenovo P2a42 using Tapatalk
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