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Painted Frogfish

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Everything posted by Painted Frogfish

  1. I'd definitely go for dividers. After a while the foam disintegrates. The dividers are much more flexible as well, which you will appreciate when you upgrade and your gear changes. You will also be able to use your case more because it can be customised to carry all other sorts of stuff.
  2. Yes the turtle video was using an Ikelite external screw on red filter, with the Epoque screwed on top of that. I think this accentuates the vignetting since the WA lens is even further away. Without the external screw on filter and just the Epoque, the vignetting is not so bad but there is still some. Of course without the WA lens, there is no vignetting and the picture is much better.
  3. Hi all Here's some footage shot by my wife using the HC1 in Ikelite housing in the Similans earlier this month: http://homepage.mac.com/marcuslim/iMovieTheater20.html http://homepage.mac.com/marcuslim/iMovieTheater21.html http://homepage.mac.com/marcuslim/iMovieTheater22.html
  4. Hi Craig, Thanks for the advice! I don't 100% understand your description, but in your first example, is the left strobe at 9 o'clock and the right strobe at 3 o'clock? If you do that, with your housing setup, would I be correct to say that one strobe will be nearer to the camera because the arm has 'further' to go? If so is there any way around this apart from say a pivot tray?
  5. I find that when taking wide angle shots in portrait, positioning the strobes can be a bit awkward. I use two 8inch ULCS arms on each side. The strobe arm is OK on one side, but on the other side it's considerably shorter. Any tips?
  6. How was your search Lars? Has anyone got any recommendations as to macro options available (for HC1/Ikelite)??
  7. Hi Matt Does large aperture help to remove backscatter simply because of reduced depth of field?
  8. Mauricio, I know this is an old thread but was just going through it. Is this correct? The focal length of the lens, 60 mm, should be the same whether it's used with a 35mm film SLR or 24x16 mm CCD digital camera (with 1.5x crop factor). It's just that with the latter, the image is cropped so the equivalent field of view is that of a 90 mm lens. Thus the distance from the lens to the subject using a 60 mm with a film vs a digital SLR with 24/16mm CCD should be the same, therefore using a diopter with the 60mm/digital camera will still mean the subject is too close? Anyone any ideas?
  9. Hi Eric Agree the article might be dangerous if taken at face value, but I know Ken..he's really into simplification and shoots in JPG. And he's a land photographer whose main camera is the D70. But there is some interest in what he says about digital cameras being not able to capture highlights simply because of software designed by engineers, not artists (or underwater photographers!) because of commercial pressures (noise/numbers/charts) and all it would take is a firmware revision/software hack. Of course I shoot in RAW. Also, the subject of this topic is getting sunbursts on digital. Mr Mustard, in his earlier posts, alluded to underexposing and then post-processing to control the sunburst. I also find this from my experience.
  10. To re-ignite the rant over the poor dynamic highlight range of digital cameras, here's an frank and honest piece from a land photographer as to why, and how to overcome it, although Alex has already given us tips on underexposing.. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/fixing-dynamic-range.htm
  11. Hi Lars I don't have the 100UWL. The Inon 165 macro has a bayonet type thread for my S50 camera, not the video. The only lens I have for the video is an Epoque wide angle0.56x, but it vignettes.
  12. Hi Eddie Yeah the strobe was on the top left hand side. As for not making subjects swim away, yes, buoyancy control is important. So is approaching very slowly and making the breathing more slow. Sometimes I just stay with my buddy and ignore following the divemaster! Sometimes I stay with a subject for the entire dive! Marcus
  13. Hi Eddie With your camera you can get a darker background if you can use lower ISO, but I know you can't get lower than ISO 100. You also can get a darker background by using a smaller aperture than f10. Is that the smallest? Anyway these are camera limitations. Here is a very similar but not necessarily better photo I took in Bali 2 days ago to show why an SLR is preferable. I could go down to f20 on this shot. Shutter speed 1/200, ISO 200 (which is the D70's lowest). One strobe. Note that the water around the top of the scorpionfish's head is 'black', so the subject stands out more.
  14. Hi Eddie How do you like your underwater macro attachment? Is it the Inon one? Anyway the photo is a bit overexposed. For digital in general it is easier to underexpose it and then lighten it up, especially if you shoot in RAW. Once overexposed and you blow the highlights, you can't get any detail back.
  15. Hi Shasta The zoom is on the right upper side of the housing. It is a little cylindrical control which you have to twist clockwise/counterclockwise and to do so you have to take your hand off the right handle.
  16. Hi Ron The first thing that struck me was the lack of contrast. The picture could have been better if the background and the subject were more different, in contrast or in colour. Also, regarding composition, perhaps a head on angle of the shrimp might have been more effective.
  17. Hi Sim No, I got the rubberised slip on one. But I also ordered the screw on one from my supplier.
  18. Hi Sim, Are you using the FM50 battery? That only has about 80 min recording time. I use the QM71D which lasts 200 mins. There is also the QM91D which lasts 315 mins, although I haven't tried it. It is quite thick and I'm not absolutely sure it fits in the housing. BTW I got the Ikelite screw on red filter for the housing and I tried screwing on my Epoque 0.56X Wide conversion lens DCL-20 onto it and it works, although the two surfaces come together very close for comfort!
  19. Hi Sim Just got my housing yesterday and took it to the swimming pool. Like you I could not swtich back to auto white balance from manual WB because the upper rod was too short. How did you solve this? Did you email Ike? I also got an Epoque wet wide angle lens that I haven't tried yet. As for the internal lens shade I'll have to look for it carefully in the box since I haven't come across it! I got a Fisheye FIX light HG20DX for lighting. At 20W I wonder if it's bright enough.. Looking forward to going to Bali this weekend to try out the setup!
  20. Hi Peter, While you are looking into a D100 (4 years old) setup, don't forget the D70 (1 1/2 years old) or D70s (6 months old) which is a far better camera for not much more $. You might also consider a D50 (but has no RAW) or Canon 350D. This link has good general advice on digital SLRs: www.kenrockwell.com Whatever camera you buy, don't forget to check that housings are available for it.
  21. Hi, Does anyone have any experience of using this with an external 'wet' wide angle lens e.g. Inon? Or are the optical results better using the 'dry' wide angle lens provided by Sony, attached to the camera inside the Ikelite housing?
  22. Hi, yes this is underexposed. In general for wrecks, try and overexpose a bit to bring out the detail because of the size. Also, because of size, it is unfeasible to light with strobes. Because you are overexposing, it is not a good idea to try and include a sunburst in the picture so the shooting angle will be more downwards than upwards..
  23. Are you sure?? This is only $160 USD without foam and $190 USD with foam on the Pelican website in the US.
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