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Gudge last won the day on July 24

Gudge had the most liked content!

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About Gudge

  • Rank
    Tiger Shark
  • Birthday 12/24/1954

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Baldivis, WA Australia

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Sony A7RIV
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-A7RIV
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 x Retra Flash
  • Accessories
    Retra LSD

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  1. I've been using the S-turtle trigger on my Sony A7RIV with Retra Pros for a couple of years. To enable HSS shooting you have to: Set your Retra strobe to HSS mode; and Set Wireless Flash on your camera to On. This setting is found in the Flash menu on the A7RIV (Menu Set 1, Page 11/15). Once this is done you will only be able to shoot in manual mode but will be able to shoot at shutter speeds faster than 1/250
  2. I use the TRT Electronics s-TURTLE trigger with my A7RIV and Retra Pro flashes and have no problems with HSS.
  3. I use Storacell battery caddies for my 18650, AA and AAA batteries. https://safecell.net.au/battery-caddies/
  4. The type of flash trigger is very important. My experience with the Sony A7RIV was similar to your problem. The A7RIV's max sync speed of 1/250 is for flashes (or triggers) that use Sony TTL logic. If you use a flash/trigger that doesn't use Sony TTL logic the maximum sync speed is 1/200. I started out with a Nauticam trigger which doesn't use Sony TTL logic and could only sync at a max 1/200 most of the time. On rare occasions I could sync at 1/250. I switched to a S-TURTLE Smart TTL Trigger for Sony Systems which does use Sony TTL logic and have had no problems with syncing at 1/250 ever since. Extra bonus for me was the ability to also use HSS (high speed sync) with my Retra Pro flashes to use sync speeds much faster than 1/250
  5. That would be me. Unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to help you out with this one. I'd need access to your rig to take some measurements for this one and that would be difficult to do with you in Florida and me in Perth, Western Australia.
  6. Depends on the speed of the USB devices you're attaching via the adapter. The adapter itself has USB 3 speed but transfer will be slower if you use USB 2 devices. I'm able to download a days shooting from my camera and then upload it again to my Samsung T7 (both of which have USB 3 connections) in about 10 minutes. A lot that time is spent navigating to the relevant folders and selecting the files to be transferred, the actual transfer time is only a few minutes. I just did a quick test from my Samsung T7 to my iPhone 12 mini, it took about 1 minute to transfer 1.2GB of photos.
  7. If you're travelling with an iPhone/iPad the Apple LIghtning to USB 3 Camera Adapter allows you to move files from your camera to your iPad/iPhone a number of ways: If you use it unpowered and connect your camera to your phone it will automatically download your photos to the Photos app. This has a few problems as you have no control over what folder they end up in and your device will try and upload them to the cloud. If you power it up with a USB power adapter you have much more flexibility. You can use USB peripherals with your iPad/iPhone. Photos can be downloaded to your device using the Files app which allows you to put them in a folder of your choice and images won't automatically be uploaded to the cloud. Option 2 is the way I use it: I either connect a card reader or my camera to download my photos onto my iPhone/iPad If I want to backup to a second location or don't want to leave the images on my iPhone/iPad I will then connect a USB storage device and copy/move the images on to that. I've successfully used USB memory sticks, Samsung T7 portable SSD drives and WD My Passport drives for this purpose You can also review your images on either your iPhone/iPad or external storage device using the Files app.
  8. I used to be a design engineer in the aluminium ship building industry. The solution used for this problem was to use Duralac jointing compound or Tef-Gel corrosion eliminator. Tef-Gel is what I've used on my housing handle bolts (Subal and Nauticam) for many years and I've never had a problem with corrosion/siezing of bolts. Before that I used silicon grease and it worked well too.
  9. This one (but only use the micro fibre cloth NOT the felt polishing pads in a drill): Glass Polishing Kit - GP-PRO™ - Do-It-Yourself Give the toothpaste and microfibre cloth a go first, it might just do the trick. In my case I managed to polish out the less severe scratch using a microfibre cloth and toothpaste. The worst scratch was improved using this method but not removed. I then went on to use the glass poslishing kit to remove the second scratch entirely.
  10. I had a couple of scratches in my Zen DP-100 both of which were clearly visible and could be felt by running a fingernail across them. I managed to polish out the less severe one using a microfibre cloth and toothpaste. The worst scratch was improved using this method but not removed. I then purchased a glass polishing kit (middle option on this web page: https://glasspolishshop.com/glass-restoration/glass-polishing-kits Using only the micro fibre cloth and polishing compound (DON'T use the circular pads in a drill!) I was able to remove the worst scratch with about 30 minutes of polishing.
  11. It's like the metric system, America does it differently to the rest of the world. If you're from America it tends to be dove, anywhere else in the world it is dived: https://www.merriam-webster.com/words-at-play/dived-or-dove-which-is-correct https://grammarist.com/usage/dove-dived/
  12. Not a problem with me. I have a second mount for the EMWL attached above my housing, when I want to shoot standard macro I move the EMWL to the alternate mount and their is very little change in buoyancy/trim of my rig. If you've got money to burn, Nauticam also make a flip adpater for the EMWL: If not done carefully this would interfere with the controls between each stage used to bleed air bubbles between sections when the rig is put in the water. In addition anything that makes the EMWL fatter would create problems. I have shot images of critters in small holes and up pipes with the EMWL inside the hole/pipe. Making it fatter would limit the ability to do this and make it impossible for the strobes to shine into the hole/pipe past the end of the EMWL. This octopus was about 300mm inside a piece of old pipe under a jetty. I had the EMWL inside the pipe with the tip almost touching the octopus. There was still enough space around the EMWL for the light from my strobes to get past. Making the EMWL fatter by adding flotation to it would have made this shot impossible: The large float arms next to the strobes haven't proved to be a problem with getting close to marine life. They are behind the strobes and the strobes are the closest thing to the subject, as they would be with any sized arms.
  13. I've had a chance to play with all three objective lenses 60°, 100° and 130° on the EMWL. Zooming in on the photo it definitely looks like the 60° objective lens on the end of an EMWL. Definitely flotation and not camouflage, the EMWL makes your rig VERY front heavy, specially when you push your strobes forward as has been done in the photo. My solution was to replace the arms closest to the strobes with a couple of Nauticam 90x170mm float arms with 450gm of buoyancy each which balanced the weight of the EMWL very nicely. Here's a shot of my wife Mary who has the same setup as me:
  14. I used to use a 100mm Zen mini dome with the Canon 8-15 fisheye on my crop sensor DSLR and was very happy with the results. However, when I used the same combination on my full frame Sony A7RIV the resulting images were nowhere near as good. I got a Nauticam 140mm dome and am once again very happy with the results from the Canon 8-15.
  15. I've been using a Canon 8-15 on a Metabones converter with my A7RIV and the autofocus speed is very good. I have a friend using the Sigma 15/MC11 combination on their A7RIII underwater and they are aren't having any issues with slow autofocus either.
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