gearbow_36218

Looking to get into the A7SIII

I have a WWL-1

Hey man nice lights! Could you tell me how old are they ? How much use?

Help Windex does not work...

Hi I currently use the GH5 in the Nauticam Housing. I moved from theOlympus M.Zuiko ED 7-14mm f/2.8 Pro lens with Nauticam N120 180mm Optical Glass Wide Angle Port --- Pros: Wide angle with very good quality sharp image. Did not have the best luck bringing my f-stop below 11 without getting really soft corners due to dome port optics focusing on the virtual image i assume. This fact alone making it all but impossible to get results in the cave. ( Talking video here not pictures) This lens is great for shallow water with plenty of light if........ you don't need to get close to your subject. The working distance with this set up i can't remember but you need to be a little bit away from your subject to keep focus. I now use the Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario Power Zoom Lens, 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH., Micro Four Thirds, POWER Optical I.S. with the WWL-1 wet lens. This allows me to lower the F stop while still keeping the corner sharpness and i can shoot different scenes with the zoom. Also I can get up close and personnel with my subject as you can focus almost right up to the lens. Still having challenges with white balance and focus to be honest but when i get everything right i am happy with the results. However in a cave even with my G18 18,000 lumen lights F9 and 3200 ISO my blacks are really grainy!!! click on link to see example of my shots. Cave in Mexico I asked basically the same questing on the GH5 page on facebook but got a lot of people perplexed why so high f stop. I now know that after seeing some of interceptors post I could bring that down to about 5.6 possibly with the WWL-1 and lens combo? Still I am thinking a cave specific lens port combo might be worth investing in maybe even a GH5S body if i can find one cheap. So I would like to bring my f-stop and iso down as practically as possible. Below is one answer i got from a poster on the GH5 forum on Facebook. Would you guys agree?.... F9? On a m4/3 camera you can easily go much lower and have no issues with depth of field. You dont use a dome port so I guess you are using a WWL1 which has no problems with soft corners. For such conditions the 15mm f1.7 pana works much much better. Also consider shooting 24fps it will give you some more light at 180d. My 2c

I see you are keeping the ports so what you moving too?

Thanks for the quick reply, I am hoping to get nice a close Although it is the beginning of the season crossing fingers also not to get skunked !

Great write up. I am going to be with the bulls today in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. unfortunately they do this dive at 80-90 feet 25 meters. In the past i have followed your advice including getting the WWL-1 and 14 -42 lens. I'll probably just use a manual white balance at 30-40 feet then do a black and white since after reading your post there is probably no point trying to get a manual white balance at 80 feet as it will crush the blues and make the image grainy, correct? If i get close enough I do have the 18000 lumen video lights depending how many photographers on the dive I'll use those sparingly. I may be down here a couple more weeks i may be able to order a filter and try another day. What do you sugest for that depth and would you filter it then do a manual white balance with the filter on at depth? Also you have mentioned before that you don't want to go down below F11 and that makes sense with dome port but i have been told by the cave guys that you can shoot much below that with the WWL-1 wet lens because it is not a dome but actually a lens and not having to fight the corner sharpness from the distortion of the dome. Thoughts? Does that make any sense?

Dam could really use this right now. What you moving to?

I just had my housing port combo stolen. NAUTICAM GH5 housing. Need a replacement urgently hoping someone is ready to sell.

The Price is right and good quality with CRI rating of 92 and 5000 max lumens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BclWuuhmF4U&t=211s

Just wanted to let you guys know i am really happy so far with the WWL-1 with 12-14mm as Interceptor suggested. I can do a wide angle and close up on the same dive. I can practically touch the subject and it is still in focus. Cenote shots are way better. I can go down to F8 and still have sharp corner focus allowing me to shoot 60fps. I may keep the 7-14mm with glass dome for really large animals at shallow depths. Thinking tiger beach, whale sharks.

Yeah that was not how it happened the actuator has always been pulled up, had it not been as i set it in it would turn the camera on and not turn on if stuck on the other side of the power switch post. I turned the camera on as normal once in the water it was when attempting to turn it off i noticed the problem.

I'm adding a link to the video again for you guys to compare with your housings? Is there a gap on your guys set-up? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjxYs58DkrM&feature=youtu.be

Did you watch the video description in the link. Is it normal to have that kind of gap for the switch? I don't believe it is normal and it was inevitable that the switch was to break because the pressure applied to tip of the switch and not the whole switch. I do not believe it is user error but anything is possible I guess. Metal alloy my ass,lol. They are BSing you...... that is NOT a metal alloy, lol. No i did not.