gearbow_36218

I see you are keeping the ports so what you moving too?

Thanks for the quick reply, I am hoping to get nice a close Although it is the beginning of the season crossing fingers also not to get skunked !

Great write up. I am going to be with the bulls today in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. unfortunately they do this dive at 80-90 feet 25 meters. In the past i have followed your advice including getting the WWL-1 and 14 -42 lens. I'll probably just use a manual white balance at 30-40 feet then do a black and white since after reading your post there is probably no point trying to get a manual white balance at 80 feet as it will crush the blues and make the image grainy, correct? If i get close enough I do have the 18000 lumen video lights depending how many photographers on the dive I'll use those sparingly. I may be down here a couple more weeks i may be able to order a filter and try another day. What do you sugest for that depth and would you filter it then do a manual white balance with the filter on at depth? Also you have mentioned before that you don't want to go down below F11 and that makes sense with dome port but i have been told by the cave guys that you can shoot much below that with the WWL-1 wet lens because it is not a dome but actually a lens and not having to fight the corner sharpness from the distortion of the dome. Thoughts? Does that make any sense?

Dam could really use this right now. What you moving to?

I just had my housing port combo stolen. NAUTICAM GH5 housing. Need a replacement urgently hoping someone is ready to sell.

The Price is right and good quality with CRI rating of 92 and 5000 max lumens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BclWuuhmF4U&t=211s

Just wanted to let you guys know i am really happy so far with the WWL-1 with 12-14mm as Interceptor suggested. I can do a wide angle and close up on the same dive. I can practically touch the subject and it is still in focus. Cenote shots are way better. I can go down to F8 and still have sharp corner focus allowing me to shoot 60fps. I may keep the 7-14mm with glass dome for really large animals at shallow depths. Thinking tiger beach, whale sharks.

Yeah that was not how it happened the actuator has always been pulled up, had it not been as i set it in it would turn the camera on and not turn on if stuck on the other side of the power switch post. I turned the camera on as normal once in the water it was when attempting to turn it off i noticed the problem.

I'm adding a link to the video again for you guys to compare with your housings? Is there a gap on your guys set-up? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjxYs58DkrM&feature=youtu.be

Did you watch the video description in the link. Is it normal to have that kind of gap for the switch? I don't believe it is normal and it was inevitable that the switch was to break because the pressure applied to tip of the switch and not the whole switch. I do not believe it is user error but anything is possible I guess. Metal alloy my ass,lol. They are BSing you...... that is NOT a metal alloy, lol. No i did not.

No service center that I know of haven't hear back from manufacture yet. No number to call on their website. https://youtu.be/KjxYs58DkrM

Just about broken my power switch off completely. It's plastic and it looks as if the Nauticam housing may be the culprit here as there's a small gap so there has not been full contact with switch. I expect it to break off completely probably on tomorrow dive. It is a plastic switch after all. Poor design Panasonic grrr.

First macro dive. I was a bit of a mess really but have loads of ideas for my next Macro dive. using the Oly-60mm macro. Dropping my FPS down really helped things in the shutter department. I think most of these shots were at 1600 ISO f20-22 I shot at All-I 422/10bit 400mbts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMXQp9O_es4&feature=youtu.be

What extension please?

Yeah , I have not had a answer on this yet. Mor me it is not a tight fit. I have a ton of extra cable that i just loop around like in the picture there. But the included instruction with the cable specifically mentions that the cable should not be twisted at all. Seems to be working just fine though.