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Everything posted by gearbow_36218

  1. Hi I currently use the GH5 in the Nauticam Housing. I moved from theOlympus M.Zuiko ED 7-14mm f/2.8 Pro lens with Nauticam N120 180mm Optical Glass Wide Angle Port --- Pros: Wide angle with very good quality sharp image. Did not have the best luck bringing my f-stop below 11 without getting really soft corners due to dome port optics focusing on the virtual image i assume. This fact alone making it all but impossible to get results in the cave. ( Talking video here not pictures) This lens is great for shallow water with plenty of light if........ you don't need to get close to your subject. The working distance with this set up i can't remember but you need to be a little bit away from your subject to keep focus. I now use the Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario Power Zoom Lens, 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH., Micro Four Thirds, POWER Optical I.S. with the WWL-1 wet lens. This allows me to lower the F stop while still keeping the corner sharpness and i can shoot different scenes with the zoom. Also I can get up close and personnel with my subject as you can focus almost right up to the lens. Still having challenges with white balance and focus to be honest but when i get everything right i am happy with the results. However in a cave even with my G18 18,000 lumen lights F9 and 3200 ISO my blacks are really grainy!!! click on link to see example of my shots. Cave in Mexico I asked basically the same questing on the GH5 page on facebook but got a lot of people perplexed why so high f stop. I now know that after seeing some of interceptors post I could bring that down to about 5.6 possibly with the WWL-1 and lens combo? Still I am thinking a cave specific lens port combo might be worth investing in maybe even a GH5S body if i can find one cheap. So I would like to bring my f-stop and iso down as practically as possible. Below is one answer i got from a poster on the GH5 forum on Facebook. Would you guys agree?.... F9? On a m4/3 camera you can easily go much lower and have no issues with depth of field. You dont use a dome port so I guess you are using a WWL1 which has no problems with soft corners. For such conditions the 15mm f1.7 pana works much much better. Also consider shooting 24fps it will give you some more light at 180d. My 2c
  2. Thanks for the quick reply, I am hoping to get nice a close Although it is the beginning of the season crossing fingers also not to get skunked !
  3. Great write up. I am going to be with the bulls today in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. unfortunately they do this dive at 80-90 feet 25 meters. In the past i have followed your advice including getting the WWL-1 and 14 -42 lens. I'll probably just use a manual white balance at 30-40 feet then do a black and white since after reading your post there is probably no point trying to get a manual white balance at 80 feet as it will crush the blues and make the image grainy, correct? If i get close enough I do have the 18000 lumen video lights depending how many photographers on the dive I'll use those sparingly. I may be down here a couple more weeks i may be able to order a filter and try another day. What do you sugest for that depth and would you filter it then do a manual white balance with the filter on at depth? Also you have mentioned before that you don't want to go down below F11 and that makes sense with dome port but i have been told by the cave guys that you can shoot much below that with the WWL-1 wet lens because it is not a dome but actually a lens and not having to fight the corner sharpness from the distortion of the dome. Thoughts? Does that make any sense?
  4. Dam could really use this right now. What you moving to?
  5. I just had my housing port combo stolen. NAUTICAM GH5 housing. Need a replacement urgently hoping someone is ready to sell.
  6. The Price is right and good quality with CRI rating of 92 and 5000 max lumens. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BclWuuhmF4U&t=211s
  7. Just wanted to let you guys know i am really happy so far with the WWL-1 with 12-14mm as Interceptor suggested. I can do a wide angle and close up on the same dive. I can practically touch the subject and it is still in focus. Cenote shots are way better. I can go down to F8 and still have sharp corner focus allowing me to shoot 60fps. I may keep the 7-14mm with glass dome for really large animals at shallow depths. Thinking tiger beach, whale sharks.
  8. Yeah that was not how it happened the actuator has always been pulled up, had it not been as i set it in it would turn the camera on and not turn on if stuck on the other side of the power switch post. I turned the camera on as normal once in the water it was when attempting to turn it off i noticed the problem.
  9. I'm adding a link to the video again for you guys to compare with your housings? Is there a gap on your guys set-up? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjxYs58DkrM&feature=youtu.be
  10. Did you watch the video description in the link. Is it normal to have that kind of gap for the switch? I don't believe it is normal and it was inevitable that the switch was to break because the pressure applied to tip of the switch and not the whole switch. I do not believe it is user error but anything is possible I guess. Metal alloy my ass,lol. They are BSing you...... that is NOT a metal alloy, lol. No i did not.
  11. No service center that I know of haven't hear back from manufacture yet. No number to call on their website. https://youtu.be/KjxYs58DkrM
  12. Just about broken my power switch off completely. It's plastic and it looks as if the Nauticam housing may be the culprit here as there's a small gap so there has not been full contact with switch. I expect it to break off completely probably on tomorrow dive. It is a plastic switch after all. Poor design Panasonic grrr.
  13. First macro dive. I was a bit of a mess really but have loads of ideas for my next Macro dive. using the Oly-60mm macro. Dropping my FPS down really helped things in the shutter department. I think most of these shots were at 1600 ISO f20-22 I shot at All-I 422/10bit 400mbts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gMXQp9O_es4&feature=youtu.be
  14. Yeah , I have not had a answer on this yet. Mor me it is not a tight fit. I have a ton of extra cable that i just loop around like in the picture there. But the included instruction with the cable specifically mentions that the cable should not be twisted at all. Seems to be working just fine though.
  15. Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8 ASPH POWER OIS LUMIX G X VARIO Tweet Share This looks like a amazing lens no? https://www.imaging-resource.com/lenses/panasonic/12-35mm-f2.8-asph-power-ois-lumix-g-x-vario/review/ Anyone know if Nauticam is going to support this?
  16. So far I have: - Panasonic 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH MEGA OIS Nauticam N85 Marcro Flat Port 35 with 67mm threads. Nauticam WWL-1 Wet Wide Lens 130 degs 67MM WetMate lens Nauticam Buoyancy Collar for WWL-1 lens Nautican Hard Cap for WWL-1 -ReeNet Subsee Magnifier +5 Nauticam CMC-2 Compact Macro ConverterMacro -Saga M67 Double Flip Nauticam M67 to Bayonet Mount Converter For Wet Lenses. Nauticam Zoom Gear For Panasonic 14-42MM Lens This is actualy the wrong zoom gear for the Macro 35 port. I would have to order from Nauticam direct. I need 36057 P1442II-Z correct. I'm considering just ordering the subsea +5 to start and droping the dual flip as i already have a single M67 flip for my OLY 60mm macro and the CMC-1. I can just transfer the flip i have from the Macro port 65 to the macro 35 port and switch out the CMC-1 for the Subsee +5 no? That should still cover me for most situations on the medium to close up range. You mentioned a Filter that you sometime use between the Macro 35 port and wet lens or you sometimes take the wetlens off and put a filter while shooting medium close up subject through flat port?
  17. Hey I would like to purchase this. Would you mind doing me up a shopping list including your macro flip stuff and that filter you're talking about?
  18. Checking out that blog post. You use the double diopter holder and do you also carry the WWL-1 lens on a bayonet mount holder? Or the diopter dive is for macro specific dives?
  19. Before i pull the trigger here on another couple thousand dollars. What situation would you say my current set up shines and is ideal for? ( Olympus 7-14 M.Zukio Pro 2.8 with glass dome)
  20. I've just sent a note to my guys where i get my camera gear......... Here is what I wrote. I seam to be getting some conflicting info. I would appreciate your expert opinion but would like it if you could take a look at this Underwater Photographer issue. Specifically the article about WACP but it talks about TGhe WWL-1 as well.. In regards to the power zoom https://www.backscatter.com/Panasonic-LUMIX-G-X-Vario-14-42mm-f-3.5-5.6-ASPH-I.S.-Power-Zoom-Lens, i hear that it will not work in conjunction GH5 body stabilization and that the other lens does - . Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH I.S. Power Zoom Lens Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH I.S. Power Zoom Lens www.backscatter.com If that happens to be the case I think i would prefer the extra image stabilization of this lens https://shop.panasonic.com/cameras-and-camcorders/lumix-camera-lenses/H-FS1442AKA.html. The problem i have had in the cenote in particular is that I am not able to stop down the F stop in low light below 11 because the corners are very soft. What i plan on doing to help this with my dome port and lens is to bring my frame rate and shutter speed down to 25 and 50 respectively. This is the same problem i have on the deep dive or on cloudy days. Just yesterday and today i have brought the shutter down and noticed a lot better corners as I was able to keep F-11 to F13 still while keeping ISO between 200-1600. Preferable 200-400 My preferred frame rate is still 60fps though as I really like the option of the slow motion in just about every situation but that 120 shutter eats a lot of light and i need to push ISO that adds grain or step down from F-11 and that adds soft corners. Anyway if you got a minute i would very much like your thoughts on that article. If i am getting the gist of the article is that i would be able to step down in F-Stop possibly as low as 5.6 and still have decent corners and have the benefit of all that extra light. Not to mention the versatility of the lens because of all the focal options when removing the WWL-1.
  21. I just spent time reading UWP issue 99 and see what you mean. In your opinion the lens you use with the WWL-1 is the best option?
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