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RogerC

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About RogerC

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    Sting Ray

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    http://www.rogercarlsonphotography.com
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    Los Angeles, California

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  1. Thanks, everyone. The smallest size I've tried is: #006 ID:1/8" x OD:1/4" CS:1/16" and it's damn small and hard to get on, but still too big. Mine are hard, though, 70 durometer, maybe something softer would mash flat and make it into the bore. The 007 is a size bigger, guess I'll try a 005. Hey Bill... if there is one fundamental truth in rocket science, it's getting the right size oring, believe me.
  2. The o-rings on my fiber optic cable rotted and fell off. I replaced them with the smallest, thinnest, o-rings I had, but no luck: the new o-rings are so large or so stiff that I can't get them inserted anymore. I took the o-rings off, but now they are really loose and just falling out. I hold them in with blue tape, hair ties, whatever I can find. Nothing works well. Any tips? I think I need to find a source for really small o-rings with a really soft durometer.
  3. Regarding using spray silicone on housings and buttons, 2 issues: I've heard that it can cause a problem with lexan housings, it can permanently fog or distort the surface. Not sure if that's true and I can't find any reference on it right now. It's too thin and runny. Yeah, that can help it get down the shaft to the oring, but you want a thick grease that stays in place, not a thin runny product that can evaporate. It's like replacing the axle grease on your car's wheel bearings with wd40. It's just not gonna last that long, and it will dissolve the thicker grease if you ever try to go back to the good stuff, so you'll have to clean the thin stuff off if you want to get the thick stuff to stick. So how do you get the thick grease to migrate on the button shaft and get to the oring? Warm up your housing. Not hot, just warm. Soak it in warm water. I've had a lot of housings over the years. Ikelite, olympus, nauticam, gates, light & motion, sealife... for me a sticky button is just a sign that the button needs service, the lube has worn off. Sounds like a more serious issue for others if it's happening right after a service. When I'm on a trip and need a quick and dirty fix, what I do to service them is to mop some oring lube onto the button shaft on the inside. Warm up the housing, push the button in, and on the inside of the housing, mop some silicon grease onto the shaft and then push the button about a million times until the grease migrates up the shaft onto the oring. I use the edge of a business card to get the lube onto the shaft as close to the hole as possible. I use a lot, I try to build up a fillet of grease all around the hole so the shaft will drag it in as it works. It makes a mess. I clean it up after with a q tip. When I'm home, I just remove the e-clip with a pair of bent needles nose pliers, remove the button and the rings, clean and grease everything, and re-assemble. DO NOT DO THIS THE NIGHT BEFORE A TRIP. DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT TIME TO GET SPARE E-CLIPS AND ORINGS. YOU WILL LOSE ONE. I CANNOT SAY THIS LOUDLY ENOUGH: YOU WILL ABSOLUTELY LOSE AN E-CLIP EVERY TIME YOU TRY TO DO THIS. DONT DO THIS WITHOUT SPARES ON HAND, OR WITHOUT THE TIME TO ORDER A REPLACEMENT CLIP. These tiny parts jump around and get lost, I don't care how careful you are. The e-clips get bent, sometimes you can bend them back into shape, not always. Some say they should always be replaced. If you are going to try this, you are going to need to have spares on hand. Either order some e-clip and oring kits, or measure what size you need and order a bunch of them. Look on amazon for e-clip kits and oring kits. They have e-clip tools, I've always gotten by with small needle nose and heavy tweezers. McMaster-Carr has a good page (as usual) on e-clips, with dimensions of the clips and shafts, so you can easily figure out which size you need: https://www.mcmaster.com/#e-clips/=15n0fsf
  4. on my housing, the anodes are on the bottom. One on the door and one on the body. I use lanocote (lanolin) on fasteners that I want to be able to remove later. It works well, but it is like a heavy pasty grease. I worry about it migrating on to optics and orings and places I don't want it.
  5. As long as the lens fits through the hole in the housing, I'm optimistic that nauticam will find a solution. I am looking forward to it, I really prefer a rectilinear wide angle lens, the zoom out to 14/28 is nice for shy subjects, and 2.8 sure is nice. the f1.8 8mm fisheye probably makes more sense, though. Easier to swim with and will probably have sharper corners, too.
  6. A lot of old Oly gear for sale, not sure what to price it at so I went for eBay auctions. Starting price may be high, not sure what this stuff is worth anymore. if that's true, they'll be lower next time or PM me with an offer. PT-015 housing for C5050 PT-E02 housing (E330 housing) PT-E05 housing (E520 housing) PPO-EO2 flat port for 14-54mm PPO-E04 dome port for 8mm (or 7-14mm with extension) Athena flat port for 50mm lens, with 67mm front thread PER-E01 port extension PER-E02 port extension Oly bodies: E1, E330, E520, Pen E-PM1 Tetra flat port Ikelite DS125 Ikelite EV Controller Ikelite extension cord http://www.ebay.com/sch/jollyroj/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
  7. I'm looking for a video light, and really like the completely sealed Solas... but I rented a fix neo, and really like the display of run time remaining and the ability to change output by smaller increments when needed. Has anyone had any flooding issues with them? If I never, ever opened it, would it be as "factory sealed" as a sola? would there be any salt water trapped in the mating surfaces that would build corrosion or mineral deposits and cause trouble down the road? thanks.
  8. I have the acrylic nauticam 4.33 port, and I did manage to scratch it pretty badly right dead center. The 8mm lens is really eager to focus on the scuff, especially in blue water without any other obvious subject. Whale shark coming? yeah, here's a photo of your dome. I've managed to buff it out, but the dome is so small that it's a little hard to work on. The abrasive kits remove the bad scuff, but then leave a bigger ring of slightly less scuff, which the next abrasive can take out, but then the circle bigger, on to the next abrasive.... it gets harder near the edges to work the abrasive smoothly, and I find it much easier to do on big domes. Your milage may vary. Personally, I'd go glass at the athena price point but not at the zen price point.
  9. The water was warm last summer as well. Around los angeles there were many warm water sightings: dorado, wahoo, scalloped hammerheads, green turtles, even a whale shark. One cause I heard was not el nino, but that a different mechanism kept the water warm in the 2013/2014 winter. That's certainly true again right now. SoI'd guess that 2015 will be like 2014. And the Solmar publishes video trip reports on their youtube channel. You might look at the trip reports from last may and see if it looks good. We did Cocos during an el nino, and the hammerheads weren't schooling, we'd only see a few at a time. It was still an incredible trip.
  10. How big a dome? there can be a lot of square inches there, 3 psi over a dome 10" across is 78 pounds of force.
  11. Also from half dot com. http://product.half.ebay.com/In-Water-Photography-Theory-and-Practice-by-Lawrence-E-Mertens-1970-Hardcover/1584179&cpid=3514334
  12. some great points, thanks. It makes me take another look at the quality of the 60mm macro vs the 50mm macro. I never read any comparisons because I so love the 50mm, and the 60mm was the only choice for the OMD, that I didn't want to hear that the 60mm didn't stand up well to the 50. The 50 is such a great lens that if I were building a macro rig, and the 60 was not as pretty, I'd go for the EM-1 for a macro rig just to build a rig around the 50.. love the small size of the em-5 for wide angle. I swim a lot when I'm shooting wide.
  13. oly page: http://www.getolympus.com/us/en/e-m1.html?utm_content=introducing&utm_campaign=em1&utm_source=email_etprm&utm_medium=email Good summary, interesting stuff on better focus with older lenses: http://thedigitalstory.com/2013/09/new-olympus-om-d-e-m1-camera.html looks too different to fit in the same housing. Price drop on the EM-5 by $100 for body only right now. That sale ends 9/14, not sure if there will be a permanent price drop or if they're selling both cameras or what. http://www.getolympus.com/us/en/digitalcameras/pen-omd/e-m5.html
  14. DeepBlueMD: how did you tighten that ball? did you just bottom it out hard or did you somehow tighten the locking collar? Mine is loose and spins. I'm afraid to bottom it out so hard that it locks, and I cant get a wrench on the collar, so any strobe I put on it just swings around. troporobo: thanks for the macro shots! I dont normally use ttl but it would be nice to have the option. Deep6: Backscatter is a problem with a ring flash. Best to fill your frame with a subject that hides it. The bigger problem for me is that you need to use depth of field to separate your subject from the background. The wrong subject and big depth of field is you can wind up with a very flat dull image. Its a fun challenge and a very compact rig. Jock: Never had the RS tray, but I liked my pivot tray. You can get low with it since the main tray is on top, not on the bottom.
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